RMI Expeditions Blog
December 11, 2014 - 6:57 pm PT
The team here in Ecuador got their first taste of altitude today, on the hills that surround Quito. This morning we rode the teleferico to 13,000 feet and began our trek up Pichincha on the rutted trails that wind up to its rocky 15,000 ft summit. It was a day to pressure our bodies into absorbing the thin atmosphere and experience the weather patterns that commonly occur here. So the last half hour of our descent was a mixture of rain and hail and by 2:30 the team was drying off in the hotel and relaxing before dinner. This will be our last evening in Quito and our trip commences north towards Cayambe.
RMI Guides Leon Davis & Casey Grom and Team
On The Map
Hello-
Everyone has safely arrived here in Ecuador and are doing well after the long flights. We started our day with a team meeting where we did a round of introductions and discuss our upcoming program. Shortly after our meeting we headed out to explore this beautiful old city with our tour guide Edison. He took us to visit the basilica and the old part of town dating back to the 1600's. We made a stop atop a hill that overlooks the city called La Panacea, and took in the view of this long and narrow city of over 2 million.
We then made our way north to visit the equator which gives Ecuador it's name. There's a small museum there with a few interactive displays that amused us. But most importantly we stood on the equator itself!
After our brief visit we made our way back to our hotel in downtown Quito where we took a break before heading to dinner. The team opted for a place called the Magic Bean that's known for its tasty food and fresh juices.
Everyone is doing well and looking forward to getting a little exercise tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
Great week at the beach. Hope you are staying warm, Courtney! We are thinking of you always. Love, mom
Posted by: Susan Allen on 12/14/2014 at 6:51 am
Diego (from Ecuador) says you have to try lechon or hornado if you get a chance!
Posted by: Liz Dean on 12/12/2014 at 12:28 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
The sun refused to shine today. At least in the Union Glacier region of Antarctica. Not so bright over at Vinson either, according to reports. No flying today as a system of moisture is moving through -at least we hope it is moving through. For all of that, it wasn't a bad day here, just cloud, murk and light snow. There wasn't any of the wind which usually is the main ingredient for making a miserable day in these parts. We got out this morning to review avalanche procedures and then went for a walk and talk on the 10 kilometer track which is groomed and marked out with flags on the immense flat surface of the glacier. Afternoon was spent on reading, mingling, chocolate and chess.
As usual, we are ready to fly out to Vinson for our climb. First thing tomorrow morning would be just fine, but the forecast is still calling for mank.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
That posted westher news for Mount Vinson is encouraging. Praying it holds. Patience.
Posted by: Bob Sullivan Sr on 12/11/2014 at 11:02 pm
I watched the weather report for Mount Vinson and there is sunshine for the next days and no wind or storm!!!
I wish you all good luck and specially all the best for Hans!
Ute
Posted by: Ute Novak on 12/11/2014 at 9:20 am
Posted by: Steve Gately, Billy Haas, Caleb Ladue, Pete Van Deventer, Seth Waterfall
Categories: Guide News Guide Grant
I remember when I first stepped into the mountains. I was 11 years old and I had never seen a mountain before, let alone thought of climbing one. My father, older brother, and I traveled to the White Mountains of New Hampshire to climb Mt. Washington (6,288’). I remember finally standing on top of the boulder pile that comprises the summit and feeling the accomplishment. "I did it, I'm on top!" It was windy—a wet cold cloud had moved in during the final hour of tedious boulder hoping to the top—and even at that age I remember quickly coming to the realization that I needed to turn around and walk back down! Mt. Washington is unique in that it has a paved road to the summit along with the world’s first mountain-climbing cog railway train. My brother insisted that we descend via the train. Luckily for me, my father obliged and shortly after the train started it's descent it began pouring. Although I was cozy in a train cabin watching the rain patter off the windows, I didn't soon forget my realization: the summit is only halfway.
You hear this quite often in the climbing world. The ability to efficiently descend is a crucial skill in regards to staying safe in the vertical world. Just as with standing on top of Mt. Rainier, Denali, or Mt. Everest, getting down off of a rock climb requires the same amount of focus and effort as climbing it, and in a lot of ways requires much more.
Days 5 and 6 of our Rock Guide Course were focused on becoming proficient in our technical descent systems. I was paired up with RMI guide Pete Van Deventer and former RMI guide and current AMGA instructor Jeff Ward, and we traveled over to the Bunny Face Wall of Smith Rocks. On the easy and moderate multi-pitch sport climbs this area had to offer we discussed and practiced rappelling and lowering our climbers: the pro's and con's of each, when and why to use one over the other and a myriad of ways to be more efficient and provide the best experience possible for our climbers. Over the course of the next few days, we climbed a number of different routes and really got the opportunity to apply these techniques in mock guiding scenarios.
When you practice these skills for the first time—or any skill for that matter—it's usually done so in the "best-case scenario.” You start out easy so you can concentrate on the learning. In rock climbing the "best-case scenario" is pretty straightforward and easy to mitigate. Over the next several days of climbing, we learned that the best scenario rarely occurs. As guides, we need to always be prepared for the difficult scenario, and we had the benefit of climbing into some terrain that posed plenty of guiding challenges. This allowed for lots of hands on learning and problem solving. As guides, it's important that we keep our skills sharp and this course was a great reminder that that process truly never ends. 16 years ago I learned that getting to the top is only half way and 16 years later I'm still being reminded of that fact!
_____
Steve Gately grew up in Boston, MA, and found his love for the mountains in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. In 2012, Steve combined his passion for teaching, climbing, and the mountains when he started guiding for RMI. Steve now guides year round for RMI, from Argentina to Alaska. Steve will be guiding not one, not two, but three trips to Aconcagua this winter!
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
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The weather out at Vinson Base remained unsuitable for flying. The fog was in. We ate breakfast and drank coffee at Union Glacier Camp. Without a ray of hope for the Vinson mission, the Twin Otter aircraft were dispatched on long flights that took them close to the South Pole. They dropped off several teams interested in skiing "the Last Degree" (of latitude - 60 nautical miles) to the Pole. Back at Union, our team whiled away a windy morning inside the dining tent. After lunch, things had calmed and so we got out our ropes and rescue gear to run through crevasse rescue systems. There are dozens of other climbers in our same boat... Waiting for a plane. They were out in force today, reviewing their own rope techniques in Russian, German, French, Chinese, and exotic English.
We'll hope for a change in the fog out at BBC tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Antartica seems to be such an isolated and beautiful space and while I am hoping one day to be able to explore the under and above aspects of this remote white and blue place, I am going to content myself by reading your adventurous expeditions. Way to go ” Mr Cousteau in the mountains “
Posted by: Chrystel on 12/11/2014 at 11:56 am
Back to back Vinson Massif guide climbs Dave? You are still an animal! Be safe all and have fun.
Posted by: Jeff Olson on 12/10/2014 at 7:50 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
_Punta_Arenas_Union_Glacier.png)
Team switch day at Union Glacier. The Ilyushin 76 flew today, landing at about 2:45 PM. "V1" ended and "V2" began. There were a couple of hours of overlap in Union Base so that the two teams could mingle and compare notes on Punta Arenas and Vinson Massif. The V1 gang told stories of the cold summit, the good food and the two pure white snow petrels we saw at Vinson Base yesterday while waiting for the airplane (it is uncommon to see seabirds so far from the sea). The V2 folk talked about false starts yesterday and touring town with Jeff Martin. Eventually it was time for JJ to take V1 out to the big jet airplane and head back across the Drake Passage to South America. It is likely that the team is celebrating in Punta at this very moment (11:43 PM). Back on the Ice, the V2ers waited patiently for flying weather to materialize at Vinson Base. Word was that it was socked in with fog. We talked, played chess, ate meals and drank coffee, but none of that made the clouds go away. By about 10 PM we built our tents and called it a night... In the bright sunshine. Tomorrow perhaps. Getting to the middle of Antarctica was plenty for today.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
How excited we were to receive the text that the team was “a go”! Thank you so much for these blogs; it really helps keeping abreast with all the activities. Hopefully today ya’ll will be able to get to Vinson Base, home for awhile. Prayers continue. Lots of love, Mom
Posted by: Betty Sullivan on 12/9/2014 at 4:58 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Jeff Martin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
The waiting is over! We got the call at 7:30 this morning that it was a go. We needed to be ready by 8:00 for the shuttle to the airport. By the time we got to the airport, the crew was already making final flight preparations, and an hour later we were ready for takeoff.
Next stop will be Union Glacier where the team will be met by Dave Hahn. Dave will write the next dispatch once they arrive on the ice.
Best,
RMI Guide Jeff Martin
Greg:
It was so nice to hear your voice and I can’t wait to actually be able to talk to you! Congratulations on summiting!!!! We are so proud of you and can’t wait to hear all about the views from the top ;)!
Love you!!
Nic and Jek
Posted by: Angelica on 12/8/2014 at 4:04 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
The team had a relaxing and slow morning at Vinson Basecamp. Many commented on how good it had been to sleep well and warm once again. Life at Basecamp seemed a million times easier than it had before we climbed the mountain. However, yesterday's predictions and proclamations that we'd shuttle from airplane to airplane and from continent to continent... were overly optimistic. We did succeed -in late afternoon- in catching a twin otter out of VBC. There wasn't a cloud in the sky and so the high mountains of the Sentinel Range were spectacular whereas they'd been cloaked in murk when we flew in. Union Glacier camp was even cushier than VBC, naturally, and so nobody expressed great frustration when it was announced that the Ilyushin 76 would not be coming today due to deteriorating weather. We're plenty happy for the moment, sitting in chairs and eating food that guides didn't cook. The gang wouldn't mind flying tomorrow though... We'll see.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Jeff Martin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Hello,
Well, the phone call we got this morning was not the one we wanted. The news was that the flight was not going to happen and that the next scheduled update would be at 7:30 pm. The winds at both Punta Arenas and Union Glacier were too high.
We made great use of the day despite the flight being delayed. We took a tour of Fuerto Bulnes, the first establishment in this area, founded in 1834. It is about 35 miles east of Punta Arenas and plays a very important part in this area's history. After some lunch we did a short walking tour of the city's cemetery which is filled with beautiful mausoleums. While a bit on the side of eerie, it was well worth it.
We were back at the hotel early and ready for the next update. When the call came, they said that the wind gusts in the last hour (53 knots) at the airport were a little too high, but they would call back in an hour and give us another update. The next call came as promised and while the winds diminished at the airport, the relative humidity at Union Glacier had increased 82%, and the flight was not going to happen tonight.
So the waiting game continues and we will start the process again tomorrow morning with the 7:30 am update. Hopefully tomorrow will be our day to fly.
Best,
RMI Guide Jeff Martin
The day dawned clear and sunny again but with wind tossing a little snow around up high. We ate a farewell breakfast at high camp and got packing. The team was roped up by 11:15 AM and ready to climb down. Considering our heavy packs, the long and steep fixed rope section went quite well. With no particular difficulty we reached low camp and got busy shuffling and resorting gear, food and garbage for hauling sleds on the lower mountain. Travel was easy then, on a well-packed snow trail and we reached Vinson Base by 4:30 PM. Up went the tents, one more time. Although the weather was fine for flying, ALE's planes were elsewhere and engaged with other missions. We are told that prospects are excellent tomorrow for getting not only to Union Glacier but all the way to Punta Arenas, Chile. If that holds, then perhaps JJ's steak dinner over camp stoves tonight was our last meal together. If so, it was an excellent and peaceful gathering. We've shared success and plenty of hard work these past weeks. The team loved hearing the "blog comments" that the RMI office emailed to us (we don't have the ability to surf the web ourselves). It helped a great deal to know so many were following our progress. Thank You.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Congrats on a successful trek. Look forward to getting John back home.
Posted by: Dudley on 12/7/2014 at 5:42 am
Thank you for all your updates! It has been awesome reading and great pictures. Looking forward to Chris’ stories.
Love, Mom
Posted by: Carol Colleran on 12/6/2014 at 10:39 pm
Hope all is well. Looking forward to seeing some summit photos. Stay safe gang, Love you Syd.
Looks like Christmas back home.
Daddy
Posted by: Roger Osmun on 12/14/2014 at 9:00 am
Looks like you’re all doing great! Good luck on the volcanoes. Go Dale!!!
Posted by: Erin C on 12/12/2014 at 5:46 pm
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