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RMI Expeditions Blog


Mt. Rainier: Teams on the Summit August 13!

The Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons led by RMI Guide Garrett Stevens called from Columbia Crest at 6:56 am, the team arrived at the summit around 6:30 am PT. Garret reported clear skies with a marine layer below at 5,000’, moderate winds and cold temperatures on the Emmons route. The team will return to their high camp for a final night on the mountain. RMI Guide Casey Grom & the Four Day Summit Climb approached the crater rim of Mt. Rainier shortly before 7 am. Casey reported 100% of the team members would be reaching the summit. He also reported winds from the west and good route conditions. Congratulations to today summit climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

It was all because of our incredible guides Casey, Nick and Nick. They took really good care of me, supported me all the way. Email me and well talk further.what an adventure! Thanks to the whole incredible team for making my 50th birthday my summit day!

Posted by: Amy Daniels on 8/14/2013 at 8:34 am

Congrats Amy and Marc!  We don’t know each other but my husband Richard and myself are just waiting for next Aug dates to sign up!  I’d love to hear about your guys journey!  Hope to hear from you when the dust settles.
Again, CONGRATS!

Posted by: Beth on 8/13/2013 at 11:21 pm


Kilimanjaro: Seth Waterfall & Team Summit!

Hey, this is Seth checking in from the top of Kilimanjaro! It's a beautiful day here to be on the Roof of Africa. Zero wind. We got up here right in time for sunrise, and just an awesome day of climbing. The crew did so good. I had to slow them down. They were going too fast so we took some extra breaks just to reel them in. Great crew, great day. It's beautiful up here and now we are going to flip it around and head back to our low camp at 10,000 feet. So, 9,000 feet to go downhill for us, but we should have a great day. That's it from the top of Kili! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall


Seth Waterfall calls in from the Roof of Africa, Kilimanjaro.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

How exciting for you all. It must have been breath taking. Hope you got some pictures Mark. Much love Mom

Posted by: Cornelia Miller on 8/13/2013 at 8:55 pm

Awesome! You made it. Hope you got some pictures from the top, and at sunrise—how special. MA

Posted by: Mary Ann on 8/12/2013 at 10:11 pm


Mt. Kilimanjaro: Waterfall and Team Begin Summit Attempt

Monday, August 12th 1:57 PST RMI Guide Seth Waterfall sent a dispatch: Hey, this is Seth checking in from high camp on Kili; it's a beautiful night, just after midnight and we are getting set to go for the summit. Everybody's putting their packs on. Hopefully, in 6 - 8 hours will be standing on top of Kilimanjaro. I'll check in then.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team

Kilimanjaro: Waterfall & Team at Barafu Camp Preparing for Summit Bid

Jambo! We are at Kilimanjaro's high camp, 15,200 feet! We've been in and out of clouds all day but no precipitation. The team did great coming up from Karanga Camp. We practiced taking nice and efficient breaks today in prep for our summit bid tonight. We came up with plenty of time to relax and get things organized for the night-time departure. I'll call in when we're headed for the top. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

You are ” not in Kansas anymore”! Great sights behind and ahead for you!!

Posted by: Frances on 8/12/2013 at 4:53 pm

Only about 4000” to go! If that atlas is correct, that is. Good luck, MA

Posted by: Mary Ann on 8/12/2013 at 2:45 pm


Mt. Rainier: August 12th Teams Reach Summit!

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Geoff Schellens led the Four Day Summit Climb to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Pete reported blustery, clear, and cold conditions on the upper mountain. The teams will spend some time on top before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. We look forward to seeing the teams in Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations on a great climb!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

The guides at RMI really make the difference here! We were fortunate to have Pete and Chase who pushed us along the way and made sure that we were doing all the right things to make the summit! Thanks Guys!

Posted by: Anil on 8/14/2013 at 11:26 am

Congratulations gang! I hated to ‘bail-out’ but conditioning is the key to keeping a group on-schedule and I personally didn’t feel I had it yet.  No worries… Next time!  Thanks Pete for your most professional guidance…and to Chase for yours.  Again thanks!... Congratulations…and ‘See you on the mountain!’  Cheers!

Posted by: Dave McLaughlin on 8/13/2013 at 12:28 pm


Mountaineering Training | 5 Packing Tips From RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Between training and the climb itself, climbers spend a lot of time with a pack on their backs. Somewhat of a necessary evil, the goal is to make your pack carry comfortably and efficiently so that it doesn’t work against you. A few tips that will result in a more enjoyable pack to carry:

1. Minimize dead space in the pack

2. Try to fit everything (except the ice axe) inside the pack

3. Keep the mass of the pack close to your body

4. Frequently adjust the straps to carry the load more comfortably

5. Have a system 

Minimizing dead space in the pack will help the pack ride in a more balanced way, and allow you to fit everything inside. A big factor that creates dead space is too many stuff sacks packed together. Round or barrel shaped stuff sacks don’t nest together well, instead leaving large gaps between them (like a cup full of marbles). To minimize this effect, try to limit the number of stuff sacks you use. A compression stuff sack for your sleeping bag is important, as it dramatically reduces the volume of the sleeping bag, but most of the other items can be packed loose, without stuff sacks. The down parka and spare insulating layers do a great job of packing around the sleeping bag to fill any spaces. Some guides go so far as to pack their pack partway, and then (taking care not to crush anything breakable) insert their foot into the pack and squish everything down to squeeze out all of the air. In addition, if climbers have packs with dedicated sleeping bag compartments, I often recommend that they detach the shelf that separates the compartment from the main pack, and treat the pack as one large tube. Sleeping bag compartments tend to create dead space where we want it least, right near the center of mass of our bodies.

Minimize the number of items that are attached to the outside of the pack. The ice axe generally has a dedicated attachment point (the ice axe loops), and is really the only exception to this rule. The rest of our equipment should fit inside the pack. With a little bit of thought, items that seem to take up a lot of space can be packed more efficiently. For example, by stuffing the helmet with extra socks and food before packing it, the volume of the helmet itself becomes very little. Crampons can be put together so that the tines cover each other, and they too can be placed in the pack. Items clipped to the outside of the pack tend to swing, get damaged, and make a ruckus. By minimizing the number of items clipped to the outside of the pack, your pack will carry more comfortably and with less noise!

In general when you are packing, place items that you won’t need or use that stretch to the bottom of the pack, while items that you would like to keep handy (food, sunscreen, etc) stay near the top. Additionally, place heavier items closer to the back panel of the pack, keeping them nearer your center of mass.

There is no perfect fit for a pack, and comfort and fit of your pack will change throughout the course of a climb or training session. In general, try to carry the majority of the weight on your hips. When putting on a pack, hitch the pack up higher on your back than it will ride, and cinch down the waist strap. Then tighten the shoulder straps until they just make contact with your shoulders. Next, lightly tighten the load lifter straps on the shoulder straps and waist belt. This helps to pull the weight of the pack in closer to your back and helps with balance. Lastly, constantly adjust throughout the day as discomforts arise!

Have a system to your pack so that you have a good idea where each item is. This will save you time and frustration throughout the climb, if you can reach straight to a warmer pair of gloves for example, rather than unpack most of your pack each time you need an item. With a well-organized system, you will spend more time at each break resting and recovering, and less time digging for items in your pack. With a little bit of time and practice your pack won’t be such a burden and your training sessions, and ultimately the climb, will be more enjoyable!

________

Pete Van Deventer is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions. A former collegiate nordic skier, Pete climbs and guides around the world, from the Andes to Alaska. Read about Pete's recent sailing and ski mountaineering trip to Norway's Lofoten Islands on the RMI Blog.

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What are your thoughts on training with steel barbell weights in a pack, up to 50 pounds? Does this mimic climbing conditions, or should different materials be used for a more realistic pack feel?

Posted by: Mark on 11/19/2019 at 6:58 pm

Hi Vikas,
It depends on how many days you are heading out for and what kinds of conditions you expect to encounter. In general, a 60L - 85L pack should be adequate for a backpacking trip of several days in the summer. Check out Whittaker Mountaineering’s Guide to Backpacks for more information on picking and sizing a pack:
http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/mountain-logic/guide-to-backpacks
- The RMI Team

Posted by: RMI Expeditions on 5/24/2014 at 12:42 pm


Mt. Shuksan: Jake Beren & Team Summit!

Summit! Jake Beren called in from Mt. Shuksan with an update on his team. They set out yesterday a little later than usual due to stormy weather, but the climb went great. The team is hiking out from their high camp today and will celebrate their success in Sedro Woolley. Congratulations team!
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Kilimanjaro: Waterfall & Team Have Spectacular Views in the Karanga Valley

Hello from the top of the Karanga Valley. Once again we are having spectacular weather! We started the day out by climbing the Barranco Wall. The traffic on the wall can really slow you down sometimes but we didn't experience that at all. We got a little later start than normal and that let all the big groups get out of our way, which made for a pleasant climb up the Wall. After that we had a great hike above the clouds. We're starting to get psyched up for the summit push. Tomorrow we go to high camp. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi bluebell group! Pictures look amazing. Glad the weather is good. I took Audrey up Eagle Creek with some friends. We had a 2 year old golden retriever with us that she “herded” the whole way. Ha! They jumped in and out of the creek and raced thru the trees. BIG FUN!! Enjoy. All is good here.  A & B

Posted by: Anneta glavin on 8/11/2013 at 3:26 pm

What a wonderful adventure! Love following your progress and the pictures!

Posted by: Katherine on 8/11/2013 at 12:33 pm


Mt. Rainier: August 11th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb and the Five Day Summit Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The guides reported moderate winds and cloudy conditions. The teams were departing the summit around 7:30 a.m. and are returning to Camp Muir to refuel before continuing downhill to Paradise. We’ll see them back in Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations to today's teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats Jim! This story won’t even need the usual Jim spin on reality to be super impressive! Can’t wait to hear all about it! Super proud of you!

Posted by: Robyn on 8/12/2013 at 6:42 pm

Congratulations Jimmy! Can’t wait to hear about the climb.

Posted by: Paul on 8/12/2013 at 5:27 pm


Mt. Rainier: Teams on the Summit - August 10th!

RMI Guide Brent Okita led the Four Day Summit Climb August 7 - 10, 2013 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Due to a lightening storm in the area the team delayed their start for the summit. Fortunately the weather cleared and they were able to leave Camp Muir en route to the summit. Brent reported a steady 20 - 25 mph with a cap waiting to form. The teams will return to Camp Muir later this morning and then continue to Paradise. We look forward to seeing everyone at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team
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