Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Summit!

July 6, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,320'

Saturday, July 6th, 2013 1:39 a.m. PST Hi all. This is Pete, Geoff, Robby and team from Mt. McKinley. We are happy to report that we stood on top of North America today! Had our weather window show up and went for it. The whole team stood on top. It was a little bit blustery, but everybody did a great job. We were on top about 6:30 this evening. Now we are all back at 17K Camp safe and sound enjoying a Ramen dinner and getting ready to sack out before we start looking at moving down the mountain tomorrow. So hope everybody is well and glad to be able to give good news. Will talk later, bye. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calls in after summit success!

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Derek, Congrats on your climb! I’m in North Pole AK and have been looking at the mountain from the fire. ICP is at elem. school stop by if possible.
Stay Safe,
Kim

Posted by: Kim Lemke on 7/10/2013 at 2:20 pm

Way to go!!! Can’t wait to hear the tales, Wy. What an awesome accomplishment. It’s almost like being able to say, “I walked on the moon!” :) Love you!

Posted by: Donna Evenson on 7/7/2013 at 9:01 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Carry to 13,600’

July 6, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Zeb Blais, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Friday, July 5th, 2013 10:57 p.m. PST Finally a break in the weather. Things calmed down during the night and the upper layer of clouds began to dissipate. As we watched for an hour or two beginning at 5 AM, the weather went back and forth for a while, but once we committed to getting the team up and getting going, it all began to go our way. We dealt with slightly cooler temperatures and steady breezes as we left camp at 9 AM for our carry, but we had big blue skies overhead which was great for everybody's morale. Snow conditions were perfect for walking, which was a little surprising after so many days of falling snow. It seems that it had been such a long dry spell previously, that the surface had gotten firm from wind and sun. When new snow landed on that surface, it just blew clean. At any rate, it was perfect for our crampons today. We got up Motorcycle Hill and halfway up Squirrel Hill in the first hour, which entitled us to enjoy grand views of The Northwest Buttress and the Peter's Glacier. The second hour took us into the "Polo Field" as folks now call the basin which the end of the West Buttress towers over. We moved through this area without much visibility as another cloud had found us. By the time we reached Windy Corner, we were walking out of the cloud and getting big views again. Windy Corner has been a concern for several weeks now as the June heat wave had produced a rockfall hazard in the area. But there had to be some benefit to the storm that was keeping us down, it froze things up nicely above the corner and our passage was fast and safe. We cached food and fuel at 13,600', just past the corner. It had taken four and a half hours to reach our destination. We buried things deep to thwart the cache robbing ravens, and then began an easy descent with light packs. By 3:45, we were back in camp, basking in sunshine. There is still plenty of cloud around, but for the moment it is below us. We hope it stays that way as we want to move to 14,200' tomorrow. All were excited and energized to finally see beyond the corner. Denali's South Peak was no longer far away or on some horizon, it was front and center... and gigantic. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Dave and Team-

Good to hear that you are finally able to move. I arrived in Moscow yesterday with Casey Grom and teamates. We fly up to the Elbrus area tomorrow morning.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 7/6/2013 at 9:49 pm

Dear Will and team: Glad that you can finally get on the move again, and that it was a good weather for the most part. Heard from Amy yesterday, and she relayed the news. Your Dad says hi, and sends his love. Hope today brings another day of good climbing.

Posted by: Vicki on 7/6/2013 at 10:30 am

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Waiting It Out at 11,200’

July 4, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Thursday, July 4, 2013 Groundhog Day at 11,000 ft on Mt. McKinley. Another storm day from start to finish. Moderate winds, light but steady snow falling, poor visibility. Our POSH tent is a well dug-in fortress; essentially a covered pit in which we've cut benches for people and shelves for stoves. It provided excellent shelter today. Obviously, we drag out the meals for several hours, eating and talking and talking some more so as to avoid going back into our sleeping tents too soon and for too long. We each put in a few sessions of digging out the tents during the day, which is good for the tents, but also for our muscles and our brains. In late afternoon, the team assembled for a lesson in how we'll climb the "fixed ropes" section of the route between 15,000 and 16,000 ft. Then it was time for dinner, more talking in the POSH, and finally bed once again. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Awesome news! We heard from Anders by Satellite phone that the weather broke and the guys were able to climb up past Windy Corner to cache some gear yesterday (July 5th) around 13K. Then they descended back to sleep at their now very familiar Camp three. Just posting this so other families get the news in case you don’t get to update the RMI blog soon. We were thrilled to hear you guys were able to do some climbing and make some progress! We look forward to reading Dave Hahn’s recap of the day, and hope you get another lucky weather break.

Posted by: judy christofferson on 7/6/2013 at 7:15 am

OK, enough already with the snow! Surely you guys have suffered enough and have earned a chance to get up that big hill! We are doing weather dances here on a frequent basis and hope that your weather fortunes soon improve.

Be sure to have Anders tell you about his love of penguins!

Posted by: Randy Christofferson on 7/5/2013 at 2:09 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Still Chillin at Basecamp

July 4, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

Thursday, July 4, 2013 It has been like a sunny beach vacation...except if it were sunny we would have flown far away from this particular snowy beach days ago. The snow keeps coming a bit harder and the forecast says through Sunday now. Could be worse; we have plenty of food, fuel, and great conversations! RMI Guide Mike Uchal made almost five hours worth of pancakes in a continuous stream for most of the camp. We have a small backlog of climbers around us. There are not many new climbers in basecamp since the weather has prohibited much movement on the mountain from any of the different camps. RMI Mt. McKinley Summit Team 6

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Hopeful for your getaway very soon! Keep us posted. Love, Mom and Dad Haugen

Posted by: Cindy Haugen on 7/6/2013 at 6:15 am

Missing you more every day. Good to hear your spirits are ok. Can’t wait to hear that planes can make it in. Got 3 holes in one today. Hug, mom and the guys. Ps did you put smiley faces on the pancakes?

Posted by: KAC on 7/5/2013 at 9:17 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 17 Camp

July 4, 2013

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Thursday, July 4, 2013 Whulp, the weather gods didn't smile on us today. We went to bed under clear, calm skies, and high hopes for today, but when we awoke, it was to snow, blowing snow, and wind, and next to no visibility. It wasn't a hard choice to sit tight in camp today, rest up, and hope that the next few days bring our chance! Everybody is in high spirits, albeit ancy and ready to go. Hopefully we'll check in tomorrow or Saturday from the top! Happy Fourth of July to everybody out there. RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and team

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Hats off to you all….it’s been a blast following this trek and moments where we wish we could be there with you b/c VERY hot here in upstate NY…travel mercies on the descent. Gil:I’ve been keeping Chandler in line. ~(:)

Posted by: Dana Holly Troy on 7/7/2013 at 8:16 am

Hola Guapo,
I have to assume you are summiting since there has been no news for two days!
We are munching nervously on the rest of your Kit Kat bars…..“oh my goodness!”
Forest Gump would say: “Run Guapo Ruuuun”!
Can’t wait to hear!
Lots Love!!

Posted by: marion and maya on 7/6/2013 at 7:13 am

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Move to 17,000’!

July 4, 2013

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Wednesday, July 3, 2013 Hello all from 17 thousand feet! We made our move today through a whole mix of weather, though overall, it was a really pleasant day on the West Buttress. We left later than most groups, waiting to have some sun and warmth before we launched. As luck would have it we missed all the crowds on the fixed lines, and cruised to our cache at the base of Washburns Thumb. With our cache on board, it was one more mellow stretch, and we were rolling into camp at the perfect hour. A big dinner and hot drinks, and now we're tucking in for the night, hoping to wake up and see our summit day tomorrow! Keep your fingers crossed for good weather! Best from here, RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and team

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Derek - I hope you and the team are safe and will finally make summit in honor of the 4th of July!!
Love, Aunt Rita

Posted by: Rita DeCamp on 7/4/2013 at 4:02 pm

So excited for you to reach the summit!
We are roasting to death in this humidity…you are far better off there!
I told you that you could make it to the top!
We can’t wait to hear all about it!
Lots Love and hugs
Guapa and Duckie

Posted by: marion and maya on 7/4/2013 at 2:37 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team - Ground Hog’s Day

July 4, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

Wednesday, July 3, 2013 We woke up today to more of the same conditions at McKinley Basecamp. At least with these conditions, there is no waiting around to see if we are going to fly. There is always tomorrow! We took a walk down to the lower airstrip to stretch our legs a bit. With plenty of food and gas, at least we are eating well! The morale is still good and the team is hanging in strong while missing our loved ones (and real food). RMI Mt. McKinley Summit Team 6

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Happy 4th of July To Cindee and her team! Wishing you all a safe and restful return, beers and tacos waiting for you when you get back to SF:)

Posted by: Jennifer on 7/4/2013 at 10:55 pm

The other night I had a warm peanut butter pop tart with a scoop of ice cream and some chocolate syrup. I feel sure that had pop tarts been included on this expedition, you guys would not still be snowed in.

Posted by: Lisa Mackey on 7/4/2013 at 7:01 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Train at 11,200’

July 4, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Wednesday, July 3, 2013 We hear that there was better weather in other places on Denali today, but not so much here at 11,000 ft. Different day, same weather. It was snow, blowing snow, cloud and blowing cloud. We made good use of an afternoon sun break to put on harnesses and crampons and go for a short walk on the lower half of "motorcycle hill" which is just above camp. It was a nice opportunity to stretch legs and review climbing techniques as well as a chance to see some cool blue crevasses. After a fine Mexican dinner, we chatted to pass the time and listened to radio traffic from around the mountain. It seems that we might have slightly better weather for a few days, at least according to our radio. We'll be ready to take advantage. There are four other guided parties waiting things out with us at 11 K and I'm certain they are ready to get moving again as well. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Glad you guys stopped lazing around in your tents and got out to get some exercise!! : ) The Christofferson family sends our love to Anders and Happy Fourth of July to you all from the Jersey Shore. Wish we could send up some of our burgers and corn on the cob!
Post Hurricane Sandy motto of the NJ Shore is “We are Stronger than the Storm” You guys are too!

Posted by: judy christofferson on 7/4/2013 at 12:00 pm

Happy 4th of July everyone!!! Hugs and kisses Will :)

Posted by: Amy Huson on 7/4/2013 at 9:51 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Remain at Basecamp

July 3, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

Tuesday, July 2, 2013 Still here in base camp in case you were wondering. It is snowing with poor visibility. There were some "sucker holes" in the clouds that gave us some false hope at midday today. We did get out and get some exercise today. Everyone in camp that is waiting to fly got on their skis/snowshoes and stomped down a runway in the snow. We all took it quite seriously since we want the airstrip to be ready when the weather is good enough to fly! Everyone is happy and healthy and ready to be off the mountain. Cross your fingers! RMI Mt. McKinley Summit Team 6 P.S. Lance wants his girls to know he loves them and will be home soon. P.S.S. Steve will call Tania, mom and dad, & Bill and Lisa as soon as he is off the mountain.

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There is an insane amount of cold diet coke in the fridge. Just saying. Jack and I loveyou, Quinn!!!

Posted by: Liz & Jack on 7/3/2013 at 7:27 pm

Steve and Grasshopper,
Congratulations on achieving the summit! So happy you were able to persevere through. Thinking of you this holiday, stay safe. Working on sending clear weather your way:)
Robin(pinky)

Posted by: Robin Biedrzycki on 7/3/2013 at 6:51 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Rest and Lounge at 11,000’

July 2, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Tuesday, July 2, 2013 There was some reason for optimism at 6 this morning when snow stopped falling and we were granted a view of some blue sky and the upper mountain. The guides got up and out to brew a cup of coffee and to watch the skies. It was considerably colder at 11,000 ft this morning, down to about what should be "normal" for this place. We watched clouds build up again and eventually we found ourselves in another snowstorm before we could even call the gang to breakfast. Mike King taught a well-attended seminar on knots and hitches in the main dining tent for a good chunk of the morning. Some lounged the day away in the POSH while others returned to their own tents to clear the snow and read/sleep/zone-out. Our afternoon was brightened when our good friends Tyler Jones and Laura Rogers, of RMI and Whittaker Mountaineering respectively came skiing down out of the storm. They are up to play and were just successful a few days back in climbing Denali's North Peak. They regaled us with all of the news of the other teams around the mountain and a pretty comprehensive wrap up of the entire season in the range. Eventually, they moved down into the clouds to get a little closer to Basecamp and we moved back into our POSH tent for dinner and a final round of stimulating conversation before bed. We remain optimistic that the snow will quit and the clouds will flee. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Summit!

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Carry to 13,600’

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Waiting It Out at 11,200’

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Still Chillin at Basecamp

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 17 Camp

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Move to 17,000’!

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team - Ground Hog’s Day

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Train at 11,200’

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Remain at Basecamp

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Rest and Lounge at 11,000’

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