Entries from Mount Rainier
Posted by: Brent Okita, Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
SUMMIT!
Our first Five Day Summit Climb of the 2012 Season reached the top of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guides Brent Okita and Casey Grom and their teams reported clear skies and moderate winds. They began their descent at 7:30 a.m. and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team.
We had some high winds during the night. At dawn the winds deteriorated and we barely had any wind today. Great morning of training with self- and team- ice axe arrest and cramponing. With our crampons on, we roped up and went to the nearby glacier to train. Our tentative plan is to do crevasse rescue training tomorrow. The forecast is for more high winds coming in tomorrow. The winds are supposed to decrease tomorrow night, which looks like the best summit bid window. We’ll have an exploratory team go up later today or tomorrow to check out route conditions.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter reached Camp Muir this afternoon. They started from Paradise at 9:45 this morning and pulled into Camp Muir at 4:45. The weather was fantastic! It was like a summer day for much of the hike. The snowfield was in great shape. As they gained some elevation, some high clouds came in and they entered into a cloud cap. Presently it is fairly nice and a little windy but they are enjoying Camp Muir at just over 10,000'. The team looks forward to doing a bunch of training tomorrow.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Hi this is RMI Guide Seth Waterfall checking in from Camp Muir on Day 5 of our Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter. We've been having some serious winter weather up here. Although it has kept us off of the upper mountain, we have been able to do a lot of training out in the elements. Yesterday the storms kept us inside for a bit but we were able to venture outside to practice our crevasse rescue systems. This morning we had a great session on a fixed-line course and also practiced rappelling. This afternoon we have more activities planned and the we'll settle in for our last night at Camp Muir.
Hi from Camp Muir. After a long day on the Muir Snowfield yesterday we awoke to clear skies and light winds. We are taking full advantage of the beautiful conditions by practicing our cramponing, ice axe technique and self arrest skills. This afternoon we plan on breaking out the ropes and practicing glacier travel and pitched climbing techniques. We're hoping the weather holds for the rest of the week!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall and the Winter Skills Seminar crew.
Hello Everyone,
The Winter Skills Seminar is down safe and sound from a week of good training and climbing on Mt. Rainier. We made a solid summit attempt on Thursday with the team climbing strongly to 13,000’ before wind, cold, and firm conditions had us turn around. The week saw high points for some of the team, lots of new knowledge gained, and many climbers hankering to come back for more. Congratulations and thanks to the team for a great week!
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
The week of winter solstice was filled with sun, great attitudes and a wonderful time spent in the mountains. We started our Intro to Ski Mountaineering Seminar with a day of basic touring skills, equipment function and packing along with harness, rope, and avalanche transceiver drills. This was a great start to the trip with two young boys from New York and Ohio looking for adventure and building their mountaineering and ski touring skill sets. The mountain days were full of exciting new learning. Our first day on the hill we parked at Paradise and ski toured toward Edith Creek drainage and found a nice, secluded and well snow-covered area to camp for the evening, allowing us to make a run down a great slope in the basin. We covered kick turns and transitions along with many other key maneuvers while traveling the mountains with skis on, whether it be up or on the way down. Our camp experience was good practical winter camping… Cold…ish but clear and star filled nights.
The second day we awoke to fog filled air. We leisurely packed camp and dropped some extra overnight equipment in the van. Around 10 a.m. we stepped in to our skis and started our ski to Camp Muir, 4,500' above at 10,000'. On our way to Muir we encountered firm crust and rime ice requiring us to make use of the crampons a few times and used them a good amount on a section of the upper snow field when our skins would just not grip. In late afternoon we arrived at Muir feeling the days work. We brewed up some hot drinks, had dinner and settled in the bunkhouse for the evening. The third day we covered loads of skills in the region of Muir including ice axes, ropes, cramponing, rope rescue and then followed with many of my other teaching tangents. We had the best weather we could ask for on the true winter solstice day in the Northwest. In our evening lecture we went over frostbite, hypothermia, and altitude illnesses. Today, our fourth day, we made our decent from Muir . We traveled a section with crampons due to poor snow conditions but still managed to get 3,200' of descent. In my eyes, any skiing is good skiing. We closed the week's journey back in Ashford over a refreshing beverage and a burger. The week of ski touring has been one to remember and I look forward to teaching more ski-based mountaineering trips on one of the lower 48's best and biggest ski hills, Mount Rainier.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Posted by: Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
RMI Climber Chuck Knauff climbed Mt. Rainier on a 5 Day Summit Climb this August and with RMI Guides Leon Davis, Eric Frank, and Dave Walter. Chuck recently told the story of his climb in the newspaper the Sun Gazette.
AN INCREDIBLE EXPERIENCE
City man climbs Mount Rainier
Sun Gazette
October 23, 2011 By Julie Reppert
"It's one of those things that, it bit me and now I'm pretty well hooked on it," Charles "Chuck" Knauff said of his climb to the top of Mount Rainier in Ashford, Wash.
Knauff, 48, a Williamsport resident and project manager for a construction management firm based out of Harrisburg, completed the climb alongside six others in August.
He spent five days at Mount Rainier, training and climbing, with the ascent to the summit and back down to the base camp taking just under four hours.
"When you're standing there looking at it (the mountain), it looks fake," Knauff said. "You never get tired of looking at it."
Two years ago, Knauff came across a documentary on ESPN depicting the mountaineering experiences of NFL Commissioner Roger Goodell and other NFL dignitaries, who climbed Mount Rainier as a fundraiser to benefit charities. Their challenges sparked his interest in making the climb himself.
Read More...
Posted by: Mike Walter
Categories: Mount Rainier
With the summer climbing around here over and the leaves starting to change colors in Ashford we are taking a look back at this season's climbs. Check out this newspaper article about climber David Cox's 4 Day climb of Mt. Rainier. David reached the summit on July 27th with RMI Guides Mike Walter, Andy Bond, and Cody Doolan.
Congratulations David, nice climbing and thanks for sharing the article!
Hi Mike, Looks like your team is enjoying a lot more snow than last years team. I hope that you don,t have any long stays anywhere on denali. Good-luck to all of you. Ken Young “Denali team 2011”
Posted by: Ken Young on 5/20/2012 at 1:38 pm
Posted by: Casey Grom, Tyler Jones
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,500'
Our Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir was a microcosm of mountaineering: athletic, challenging, moments of joy and occasional disappointment, but ultimately and most importantly a safe adventure. Heavy rain on Monday negated our planned ascent to Camp Muir, but we had a productive day at Rainier Basecamp going over numerous techniques. We reached Camp Muir on Tuesday and spent the next three days practicing skills and preparing folks for future climbs. These skills were crevasse rescue, cramponing, ice climbing, beacon searches, rope travel, route finding and more! Conditions at Muir were sunny, windy and icy most of the week. We encountered a layer of hard ice on the surface of the Cowlitz Glacier (and above) which unfortunately prevented a summit attempt. Our high point was the top of Cathedral Gap, approximately 10,500’.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
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That’s my boyfriend!!!! Maybe one day we can summit up there together :)
Posted by: Cathy on 2/11/2012 at 8:22 am
I’m assuming the weather conditions prevented you all from attempting the summit? I know akbar was really looking forward to it.
Uzma (akbar’s wife)
Posted by: uzma on 2/10/2012 at 3:31 am
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