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Finally, a breakthrough day. Our excellent Sherpa climbing team ran up to the midpoint of the icefall where we'd cached gear yesterday. They put all of that on their backs and busted on up to establish Camp 1 at approximately 19,800 ft. Two of the guys, Rinjin and Sonam then cruised on up to Camp 2 (Advanced Base Camp), claiming our campsite -which will be crucial with the mountain as busy as we expect it to be- and retrieving our ABC gear from last year ("abandoned" when the season came to an unexpected end last year). Meanwhile- Chhering, JJ Justman and I guided the climbing team on our much anticipated "dress rehearsal" for the Icefall. We were up at 3:30 AM, eating at 4 AM and walking by 4:30 AM. The intention was to travel smoothly and efficiently to the midpoint of the Icefall and return to base... as a check that the entire team would be ready for the committing step of moving to Camp 1. We did just that on another perfect weather morning. It was encouraging for all of us, and a little awe inspiring when three of the Icefall Doctors caught up and passed us as if we were standing still -all while carrying heavy and cumbersome sections of ladder to put in place at yesterday's trouble spot near the top of the Icefall. About two hours into our climb, we hit our own first real ladders and aced a half dozen awkward crossings. We took a break at the midpoint, still in deep and cool shadows and then got set for the equally challenging descent to Base. The team cruised through this test, showing the advantages of two weeks of training and acclimatizing. We were back down to the luxuries of Base Camp by 9:30 AM, feeling like we'd already put in a full day of hard work. The remainder of the day was spent resting, talking with climbers and guides from neighboring trips, and enjoying a few hours more of T-Shirt weather before we bundled up again for the late afternoon clouds. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Greetings from Quito! Early this morning (or rather late last night), our team set off to try to climb Cotopaxi. When we woke there was a little precip, but we knew we could handle it and continued with our preparations to go see what we could do. Breaking trail through the new snow for hours this morning did little to slow down this team and we found ourselves high on the mountain before the sun had risen. At around 18,400 feet above the sea, crossing a reactive windslab above a gaping crevasse stopped us in our tracks, too risky to chance a crossing and our high point today. The team impressed me with their dedication to safety and a good time in the mountains over standing on a summit and Cotopaxi rewarded our judgment with a break in the storm to take in the sights of this beautiful mountain. Crossing crevasses, down climbing ice steps and navigating seracs in the early morning light was a real treat and we appreciated these features of the route even more as the weather rolled in for our last few moments before returning to the hut. A short nap and then down to the bus in the snow, so much for life in the tropics. It has been a real treat to share these climbs with such a good team, thanks everybody. RMI Guide Jake Beren

Today we carried up to Camp 2 to make a cache. The wind was a constant presence, but we managed to get up to camp in good style and enjoyed the different views as we climbed to new heights. Whispy clouds aloft slowly built throughout the day and we are keeping our fingers crossed for some decent weather to head our way, but we are prepared to outchill the storm if need be. Over dinner tonight we read everyone's responses to the dispatches. Thanks everyone, they were certainly a hit. We miss you all and can't wait to share the adventure when we return. Finally, from the tent and minds of 2 Richs and a Trevor comes a poem. Twas the night before Christmas and all through the Andes, not a creature was stirring, not even the Spaniard. Team RMI lay in bags way up high, Hoping to delay peeing until dawn's early light When out of the sky came a horrible roar, And one more wind blast made us all hit the floor. For almost 2 weeks we have not seen a tree, Or even a plant a Guanaco might eat. Our time is spent sleeping on boulder-strewn scree, Or climbing steep slopes that grind on our knee. The air is so thin that it jumbles our thoughts, and after some pitches we only see spots. And yet on this day our thoughts turn to home and all of the loved ones that we've left alone. So for this reason we send our love from above and say we can't wait to see you when our climb is all done So we close with the words that we hear everyday from Jake, Elias, and Geoff who show us the way. On Adam, on Katie, on Dave, and on Kim, on Eric, on Craig, on Trevor, and Rich (and Rich) Merry christmas and happy holidays! And to all a good night! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Monday, May 29, 2023 - 11:12 pm PT

Another, you guessed it, weather day for us. As it snowed almost all night, we slept in and had a slow breakfast of blueberry pancakes. Snow continued to fall throughout the day, and we had very little visibility around camp. Folks did normal rest day activities, like walk around camp, meet other teams, rebuild our bathroom into a new palace and change out our socks. We are waiting for a three day weather window to make our way safely to 17,000', to the summit, and home. Until then we continue to check all the weather resources we have available, and try to stay sane.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Friday, June 27, 2025 10:38 pm PDT

Dispatch 14.2 – Storm Day 2

As forecasted, today was a better day. It was sunny and calm… and we didn’t go climbing. The guide team felt that the recent snowfall needed at least one good sunny day to settle and reduce the avalanche hazard. As it turned out, all other teams on the mountain came to a similar conclusion—no teams moved today.

We ended up making pretty good use of the day, though. We roped up and took a field trip to the Edge of the World! Since we are camped in the middle of a large glacial basin, it’s easy to forget just how high we’ve already climbed. A short walk to the edge is a quick reminder. It was thrilling today to climb a rock at the edge and look down a few thousand feet to the Kahiltna Glacier—where we camped a while back.

Back at camp, Calvin gave a well-received instructional session on avalanche beacons, and Sam put all his culinary skill into boiling water for our freeze-dried dinner.

We hope to carry up onto the Buttress tomorrow.

– RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

We got an early start this morning after a good night’s rest. The views of Salkantay were spectacular. Avalanche debris running from high on the 20,000’ peak made for a scenic but challenging first 2 hours of the day. A top Incachiriasca pass the team took in the views of surrounding valleys, some scattered with boulders and glacial moraines, others with dry grass and streams. The altitude began to ease as we descend towards our camp. Meandering cattle trails and soft grass turf made for a leisurely hike into our lunch stop. The Peruvian team spoiled us again with a 3-course lunch, the avocado and quinoa soup being favorites. Some of the team enjoyed a post lunch nap in the warm sun while others took in the views.

Rain is hitting the tents now as the team turns in for some well-deserved rest. We end the Salkantay trail tomorrow and join the more traveled Inca Trail.

Thanks for checking in.

RMI Guides Mike King, Jack Delaney & Team

It is a beautiful, sunny day in Talkeetna. The team is hard at work organizing and packing in preparation to fly into Basecamp tomorrow. Everyone is excited and making last minute decisions on oreos vs. famous amos and apple cider vs. hot chocolate. Decisions, decisions...

RMI Guides Andy, Grayson, Ben and Team

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Bryan Mazaika reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning on a clear but windy day. The teams did not spend much time at the summit due to the winds. Once they return to Camp Muir the groups will continue their descent to Paradise. Congratulations to today's climbers!

Greetings everyone from Chilcabamba Eco Lodge! We're enjoying a great rest day after our big day yesterday on Cayambe. From our spot we have an amazing panorama of beautiful green farmland surrounded by tall mountains on all sides. Most notably, a full frontal view of Cotopaxi's impressive north face! Last night we could even see the lights of the refugio on the flank of the volcano. That's going to be home in a couple of nights, and where we'll make our summit attempt from. Anyhow, the team has been spending the day drying out and organizing gear for tomorrow's hike to the refugio. We'll check in tomorrow from the refugio! Billy and the crew! Shout outs: Greetings, Nick and Cam from dad! Study hard! See you soon after exams. Julie, I love you! James says, "hello to friends and family back home!" Mena, one down one to go! Outta touch with civilization - be home soon! Casey and Sarah say, "we're having a great time, lots of stories, we'll be home soon!" Dawn: "Eating, feeling, and doing great!" Thanks to Dawn Kim for the photos in this post!

Standing in the Taggert Lake parking lot of Grand Teton National Park, we gather for one of the last morning guide meetings of our AMGA Ski Guide Course. Everybody smiles and chuckles as our meeting leader reads the weather report. Over the last 9 days we have received over 80 inches of snow containing more than 8 inches of water equivalency. The avalanche forecast is high and predicted to hit extreme after a rain event starts this evening. We all talk about dialing back our terrain choices…way back. This storm has been relentless for many days, altering our objectives, creating whiteout conditions to navigate, forcing meticulous terrain selection, and making for some great skiing. We have all learned many tools for creating a positive and safe mountain experience amidst a dangerous snowpack. Today we talk about our tour plan, a planned route up a 3000 vertical foot feature in Grand Teton National Park. Through mapping tools, some math, and a little technology, we know what we're getting into and have a plan to manage the risks. We talk about who will take the lead for our group on each climb and each descent, as well as our pacing, timing, emergency plans, equipment, and weather forecast. We break our meeting, beacons checked, skins on, click in, it's time to go skiing!

AMGA Ski Guide Course - Jackson 2017 from Chris Ebeling on Vimeo.

In February with the help of the RMI guide grant I attended this 12-day AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Ski Guide Course in Jackson, Wyoming. This is the second course in the four courses and exams that lead to becoming a certified AMGA ski guide. The course covers numerous factors of guiding in the winter environment. Managing terrain, instruction and modeling, and putting clients in the safest, best snow is the primary focus of our techniques on the down. Creating efficient tracks, navigation, and terrain selection is a big focus of our time guiding the climb. We cover many technical factors as well, including adding security in 3rd class terrain using our rope, technical lowers and rappels into steep ski terrain, crevasse rescue on skis, travel with an improvised emergency sled, and construction of winter emergency shelters. Many thanks to RMI and the RMI guide grant for their financial and mentorship support. Another big thanks to our instructors Christian Santelices and Rob Hess for their dedication to growing the professionalism of our guiding community. _____ Chris Ebeling has been guiding with RMI since 2015. He grew up in the Northwest, climbing, skiing, and riding around Oregon and Washington before making the move to the Northern Rockies of Montana. He returned from Montana to join RMI, but still returns to Montana to explore the remote corners of his home range during the winter.