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Friday, June 27, 2025 10:38 pm PDT

Dispatch 14.2 – Storm Day 2

As forecasted, today was a better day. It was sunny and calm… and we didn’t go climbing. The guide team felt that the recent snowfall needed at least one good sunny day to settle and reduce the avalanche hazard. As it turned out, all other teams on the mountain came to a similar conclusion—no teams moved today.

We ended up making pretty good use of the day, though. We roped up and took a field trip to the Edge of the World! Since we are camped in the middle of a large glacial basin, it’s easy to forget just how high we’ve already climbed. A short walk to the edge is a quick reminder. It was thrilling today to climb a rock at the edge and look down a few thousand feet to the Kahiltna Glacier—where we camped a while back.

Back at camp, Calvin gave a well-received instructional session on avalanche beacons, and Sam put all his culinary skill into boiling water for our freeze-dried dinner.

We hope to carry up onto the Buttress tomorrow.

– RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

We hiked from the hotel to the parking lot in approximately 30 seconds this morning.  Which was our climbing goal for the day.  Then we shifted into Safari mode, driving out of Usa River at 8 AM.  Saimon and Izach, our safari guides/drivers, had us through the outskirts of Arusha (population 2 million) and out into the arid countryside in about an hour.  We cruised westward, watching Maasai tribesmen and boys moving cattle to water.  By late morning we’d reached Lake Manyara National Park.  We popped open the tops of our Landcruisers and stood up to search for wildlife.  The park was a little sleepy today, but we saw elephants and giraffes, Cape buffalo and eagles.  We drove along bumpy dirt roads through forest and occasional clearings to see impala and bushbucks, Dik Dik and vultures.  We spied Hirax and banded mongoose, crowned cranes and baboons.  There were monkeys galore.  During the course of the day, we enjoyed a picnic lunch in the park.  We looked up every tree for lions and leopards but came up a little empty on that score.  Still it was a fine day of exploring.  In the evening we drove out of the great Rift Valley and into the highlands to Karatu where the Plantation Lodge welcomed us with comfortable rooms and a delicious dinner.  Tomorrow we’ll venture out for Ngorongoro Crater. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

It is a beautiful, sunny day in Talkeetna. The team is hard at work organizing and packing in preparation to fly into Basecamp tomorrow. Everyone is excited and making last minute decisions on oreos vs. famous amos and apple cider vs. hot chocolate. Decisions, decisions...

RMI Guides Andy, Grayson, Ben and Team

The team stood on top of Pico de Orizaba at 7:30 this morning. We had calm air and partly clear skies to begin our hike up the steep moraine trail. Once in the labyrinth the trail was covered in firm snow & ice, which was unexpected based on how dry the surrounding area was. The team was moving up the glacier around 5 am. Once on the summit the pyramid shadow cast by the rising sun greeted everyone and was a highlight of the trip. The descent is always hard on toes and knees but we got back to Piedra Grande hut and packed up for the bumpy ride down in the trucks. 

We are back in Sr. Reyes’ hostel and packed for flights tomorrow afternoon. This has been a great trip with a stellar group of climbers, especially since we had summits on Ixta via a forgotten route and a classic Orizaba summit day. Thanks for following along.  

RMI Guide Mike King

Photo credit: Mike Greene

We got an early start this morning after a good night’s rest. The views of Salkantay were spectacular. Avalanche debris running from high on the 20,000’ peak made for a scenic but challenging first 2 hours of the day. A top Incachiriasca pass the team took in the views of surrounding valleys, some scattered with boulders and glacial moraines, others with dry grass and streams. The altitude began to ease as we descend towards our camp. Meandering cattle trails and soft grass turf made for a leisurely hike into our lunch stop. The Peruvian team spoiled us again with a 3-course lunch, the avocado and quinoa soup being favorites. Some of the team enjoyed a post lunch nap in the warm sun while others took in the views.

Rain is hitting the tents now as the team turns in for some well-deserved rest. We end the Salkantay trail tomorrow and join the more traveled Inca Trail.

Thanks for checking in.

RMI Guides Mike King, Jack Delaney & Team

Sunday, June 23, 2025 - 8:15 pm PT

Another rest day. Right now we are in waiting mode, as the winds have picked up at the summit and we await a break in the weather for our summit push. Luckily, there are few waiting rooms more majestic than 14 camp.  

Breakfast is a leisurely affair of breakfast burritos - democratically voted as the best breakfast yet. Then, it’s time for a Hot Girl Walk up and down 14’s Main Street. The fashion is a bit different though - in lieu of Alo yoga matched sets are brightly colored sun hoodies, face shields, and triple boots - but never just down booties. We have standards. 

Post fashion walk, it’s time for stretching, hydrating, and a carnival classic: knocking over the cook pot with a snowball. It becomes readily apparent we won’t be forming a Denali softball league anytime soon. 

Next up on the agenda is home improvement. Tents must be moved and foundations leveled with caddy-like precision. Hot tip for the golfers out there - get yourself a Denali climber - we are happy to carry heavy bags over hilly terrain, can read the slope on any surface, and are likely broke from funding this hobby. 

Since the NPS won’t share the wi-fi password, the rest of the day is a mix of hydrating, reading, card playing, napping, snacking, and reapplying sunscreen. At 7pm the NPS weather report and daily trivia will crackle over the radio - unintelligibly, despite our direct line of sight to their tents. 

Post dinner, it’s time for another stroll up and down Main Street, though it’s giving more Fart Walk than Hot Girl Walk at this point. I’ve heard Fart Walks are the new summer wellness fad, so at least we’re trending. 

To everyone at home reading this blog, leaving comments, sending messages to our Garmins - you have no idea how much your love and support means everything to us. Thank you. 

- Sophia Bishop