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Mt. Rainier: July 21st Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Mike Walter and Elias de Andres Martos reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at about 8 o'clock this morning. The teams had clear skies with a cloud deck at about 8,000' and moderate winds. They got to spend some time on the summit and are now making their way back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's teams! Also, Nana says "hi" to Nora.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Kelley, We have never known anyone to make this climb—you are amazing!  We can’t wait to see your pictures!  Love, Sue and Don

Posted by: Don and Sue Pieper on 7/24/2012 at 10:10 am

way to go Kelley and the rest of the team!  I cannot wait to hear all about it!  Barbie

Posted by: Barbie Smith on 7/23/2012 at 9:06 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Sherpas Make Camp 1 & ABC, Climbers Take Dress Rehearsal

Finally, a breakthrough day. Our excellent Sherpa climbing team ran up to the midpoint of the icefall where we'd cached gear yesterday. They put all of that on their backs and busted on up to establish Camp 1 at approximately 19,800 ft. Two of the guys, Rinjin and Sonam then cruised on up to Camp 2 (Advanced Base Camp), claiming our campsite -which will be crucial with the mountain as busy as we expect it to be- and retrieving our ABC gear from last year ("abandoned" when the season came to an unexpected end last year). Meanwhile- Chhering, JJ Justman and I guided the climbing team on our much anticipated "dress rehearsal" for the Icefall. We were up at 3:30 AM, eating at 4 AM and walking by 4:30 AM. The intention was to travel smoothly and efficiently to the midpoint of the Icefall and return to base... as a check that the entire team would be ready for the committing step of moving to Camp 1. We did just that on another perfect weather morning. It was encouraging for all of us, and a little awe inspiring when three of the Icefall Doctors caught up and passed us as if we were standing still -all while carrying heavy and cumbersome sections of ladder to put in place at yesterday's trouble spot near the top of the Icefall. About two hours into our climb, we hit our own first real ladders and aced a half dozen awkward crossings. We took a break at the midpoint, still in deep and cool shadows and then got set for the equally challenging descent to Base. The team cruised through this test, showing the advantages of two weeks of training and acclimatizing. We were back down to the luxuries of Base Camp by 9:30 AM, feeling like we'd already put in a full day of hard work. The remainder of the day was spent resting, talking with climbers and guides from neighboring trips, and enjoying a few hours more of T-Shirt weather before we bundled up again for the late afternoon clouds. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Rock on…haha BTW, I recognize the guy in the climbing picture.  Hiking behind Hans.  Give him a hug for me.  Safe travels to Camp 1. xoxo

Posted by: Bonny Rogers on 4/21/2015 at 3:36 pm

Hi all together, great pictures from the icefall!!!
You are in and everybody is well and feel fine - I hope so! And thank you Dave and JJ, you are responsible guides - safety first!!!
Good weather and good luck for your next steps.
Best wishes to Hans from hot and sunny Germany - Ute

Posted by: Ute Novak on 4/21/2015 at 11:58 am


Mt. Rainier: July 14th - Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs and Jake Beren reached the top of Mt. Rainier today. Visibility was low and winds were strong, so their time on the top was short. The teams have started their descent and are on their way down to Camp Muir. Our Kautz Glacier Climb led by Mike Walter sent us a radio call at 1:59pm PST from the summit of Mt. Rainier. The entire team reached the summit via the Kautz route. Congratulations to today's teams!
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Mountaineering Training | The Holiday Workout

Air and automobile travel, shopping, traffic, in-laws, it’s dark, cold and wet outside...the Holidays are here! Does all of this have an impact on physical fitness? It can, and as a result I need a workout I can do anywhere and in a short amount of time. Here is a favorite, I call it the Four Hundred by Two by Ten. Let’s call it the Holiday Workout. Try it two or three times this week. The Holiday Workout goes like this: 1. Run or walk 400 meters. Conveniently, this is the distance around an athletic track (or around a football field). You can also do it on the trail, even if you have to guess the distance (or use a watch and run/walk for 2 minutes). 2. Do two strength exercises. I suggest ten repetitions of Bicycle Crunch and Push Up, or the Russian Twist and 30 seconds of the Plank. You can chose whatever you like and try to make one an upper body and one a mid-core exercise. For an explanation of the strength exercises, and a list of others, see the Daily Dozen. 3. Repeat ten times and that’s it - an all-body workout that trains both strength and cardiovascular fitness! Stay focused and it will only take you about 45 minutes. You can make it a social activity by doing it with friends and family. If someone is more fit, try to double up on the strength exercises. If someone is less fit, give them a head start on the run/walk section. Happy Holidays! - John Colver John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle. Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts with John and other readers on the RMI Blog!
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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Okita & Team Waiting Patiently

Good things come to those who wait... At least that is what we must remind ourselves of. Another day of marginal weather had us scratching our heads about the possibility of a summit bid while other teams have had enough and are headed down. But with a fortified camp and a weeks worth of food and fuel, we plan to exercise patience and optimism. As storm days stack up, it is all too easy to let altitude and lethargy tear a person down. Exercise is the best remedy, and so this afternoon we climbed the first hour of the autobahn to stretch the legs and open the lungs. With new snow covering the route, we worked hard breaking new trail up to 17,700 feet, and the pickets that protect the steep slopes had to be dug out. To be sure when our time comes to go for the top, our team will be the most acclimated and best conditioned team at high camp. High and Mighty at 17K RMI Guides Okita, Davis & Mann

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Double A hope ypur not freezing your #$## off that would suck… Can’t believe you guys are hanging in there at 17k. Life at sea level is nice and warm but I’m sure the views and experience y’all are having is really special. Stay safe… Looking forward to good weather for you so you can achieve the summit, good luck too you and all your partners up there.

Posted by: mark on 6/8/2012 at 11:59 pm

“High and Mighty at 17K” is beautiful also in your realization of humility to circumstance—to your group, and specifically to Kristen who is the daughter of deepest friends and a young woman of deepest conviction, Godbless.

Posted by: Michael Rosen on 6/8/2012 at 5:10 pm


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

Monday, June 13, 2022 - 8:50 pm PT

Hello from 11,000' Camp!

The alarm rang, we unzipped the tent and the conditions looked great. It was time to move to a new camp! Getting to 11,000' Camp is a great milestone. Here we get to spend several nights getting ready to move higher up the mountain. Step by step we are making it higher and higher. With all our camp loaded in our packs and sleds we hit the frozen trail. A brisk morning welcomed us on our trails and soon turned into a brisk breeze. A sting to the face brought us to the sunlight. We had finally climbed out of the clouds and man is it nice to be above the clouds. This camp has more teams. We are no longer alone. It's nice to see other teams around and have energy flowing through camp. Shoveling, chopping, and eyeballing the levelness of the tent platforms leads to a good looking camp. More naps and more snacking bring us to dinner. Life is simple out here. We walk, we set up camp, we sleep, we eat, we rinse and repeat. Tomorrow we will walk back downhill to our cache and be reunited with our things. It's a great feeling getting your food back. Hopefully the weather keeps treating us well and tomorrow is a smooth day.

Talk to you all tomorrow,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Really fun to keep up with you guys.  Also fun to watch CJ’s Garmin.  Best to you all.  Sounds like you are having a wonderful time.  Climb safe please.  Praying for your good weather to continue.

Posted by: Eloise Loeffler on 6/14/2022 at 12:36 pm


Denali Expedition: Parrinello & Team Enjoy Rest and Yoga at 14,000’ Camp

Sunday, June 12, 2022 - 10:12 pm PT

Ahhhh, finishing up breakfast at noon. One of the fine pleasures of a rest day. On this day we not only continued to acclimate and gain strength but we also gained FLEXIBILITY! Thanks to our own team member / yogi Rebecca giving all of us an impromptu yoga class! Of course we had to substitute yoga mats for sleeping pads but the views were unparalleled. The class even had a few first time yogis who now get to brag their first class was at 14,000 feet! It was fantastic to limber up after days of dragging sleds and walking with heavy packs. We spent the rest of the afternoon swapping snacks and stories. We currently sit in the sweet spot waiting for our summit window. Below us is all clouds and snow, above us is windy and cloud capped.

Goodnight everyone and since we only do this once a day good morning and good afternoon as well!

RMI Guides Avery, Jack, Liam and the team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Sounds like the climb is being managed really well with yoga, great food and snacks to give you all
strength to continue. Love getting the reports and wish you all the best!
M.

Posted by: mary pagnucco on 6/13/2022 at 6:23 pm


Denali Expedition: Schmitt and Team Enjoy a Rest Day

Friday May 27, 2022 10:37pm PT

It was a beautiful day today at 14,000' camp. We slept in, ate breakfast burritos, then napped, read and ate some more.

After reviewing some more mountaineering skills, we ate more burritos for dinner. With the sunny skies, warm temperatures and the menu today, it almost felt like we were in Mexico.

Stay tuned for what we get up to tomorrow!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the Denali Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great progress so far! Hope you enjoy some well deserved R&R!

Posted by: Ramsay Bader on 5/29/2022 at 6:56 am

Go Team RMI - sending positive thoughts and wishes from Mount Washington NH!

Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 5/29/2022 at 3:47 am


Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Make the Move to 14,000ft Camp

Wednesday, May 24, 2023 - 11:03 pm PT

Another big day in the books. After waking up to snow lightly falling at our 11,000ft camp, we had a quick breakfast and began breaking down camp. Around 10:30AM we finally began our way up Motorcycle Hill. At the top of Squirrel Hill we were met by some brutal winds and blowing snow. We worked across the Polo field, adding layers to combat the wind and blowing snow and worked our way through Windy Corner. After Windy Corner, luckily the winds died down and we were able to roll into 14,000' Camp in slightly better conditions. We joined the other RMI teams, and built our camp before making a rewarding dinner of ramen. Weather looks a bit moody tomorrow, good thing we've got a rest day on the docket.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Eric…Checking in with dad and Jill and cheering you on. Looks and sounds amazing!

Posted by: Addie Lyden on 5/27/2023 at 11:30 pm

Eric…Checking in with dad and Jill and cheering you on. Looks and sounds amazing! From Portland, Oregon

Posted by: Addie Lyden on 5/27/2023 at 11:29 pm


Denali National Park Mt. McKinley Expedition: Champion & Team Ready for Summit Push

Friday June 13, 2025 10:04pm PDT

One step closer to the summit.

This morning we woke up under surprisingly warm temperatures (for Denali) and started the stoves. After a quick dinner and packing of the essential overnight gear we began our journey out of 14,000’ camp, up towards the fixed lines and onto the west buttress proper. After the steep technical climbing of the fixed lines, we transitioned to the picturesque but Exposed ridgeline that makes up the name of this classic route. Comprised of steep drop offs, and beautiful exposed granite we weaved Our way from 16,200’, to our final destination for the night 17,200’ camp.

Still blessed by sunshine and warm temperatures (again, for Denali). We quickly built our new camp, started water, and settled into our home for the night. Tomorrow is still looking good for our summit Push, and everyone is feeling all the emotions - but primarily excitement.

Our goal is to start climbing at 10am tomorrow before We roll into our long summit day. Hopefully check in tomorrow with the best news!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mila and team wishing you good weather and sending lots of energy for the final push ! Enjoy and be safe!

Posted by: Eva McDevitt on 6/14/2025 at 9:32 pm

Mila and the team, wishing you the best weather for the final push!
Enjoy the summit views and have a safe journey back!

Posted by: Sarka on 6/14/2025 at 8:51 pm

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