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Hello from high camp on Chopicalqui! We're perched up here at 17,716' (5400m) after an early start this morning. The early start allowed us to arrive at high camp with enough time so we can give our bodies the rest they need before our summit push tonight. We're currently making dinner and we're shooting to be in bed way before sunset. The weather has changed a bit on us, but we how to have a good window for tonight. Keep your fingers crossed for an update from the summit! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

Our team is all tucked in at Mt. Everest's Camp 1. Myself and Lam Babu attended an all expedition meeting to sort out details for upcoming upper mountain rope placement. In itself there is a mountain of rope to be carried up the hill. Great to see all the cooperation amongst the teams to get this job going. Dave Hahn called in from Camp 1 after the team was settled in. Listen to his audio report below. RMI Guides Mark Tucker and Dave Hahn

On The Map

Sunday, June 12, 2022 - 10:12 pm PT

Ahhhh, finishing up breakfast at noon. One of the fine pleasures of a rest day. On this day we not only continued to acclimate and gain strength but we also gained FLEXIBILITY! Thanks to our own team member / yogi Rebecca giving all of us an impromptu yoga class! Of course we had to substitute yoga mats for sleeping pads but the views were unparalleled. The class even had a few first time yogis who now get to brag their first class was at 14,000 feet! It was fantastic to limber up after days of dragging sleds and walking with heavy packs. We spent the rest of the afternoon swapping snacks and stories. We currently sit in the sweet spot waiting for our summit window. Below us is all clouds and snow, above us is windy and cloud capped.

Goodnight everyone and since we only do this once a day good morning and good afternoon as well!

RMI Guides Avery, Jack, Liam and the team

Friday, May 31, 2019 4:36 PM PT With the forecast still calling for heavy snow we have opted to stay in the confines of our camp here a 14K. The team enjoyed a late morning breakfast and is now napping away the afternoon. Sunday is still looking like our first possible day to fly off the glacier with the weather only improving into Monday and Tuesday. The plan as of now will still be to launch downhill around midday tomorrow and travel all the way to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna hopefully chasing improving weather down glacier and ultimately a flight out of here early Sunday morning. We'll see what hand we are dealt with tomorrow. The hope here is to avoid having to travel and set up camp in bad weather but rather time it just right that we walk straight into a plane. For the time being however, we rest and wait for our opportunity. RMI Guide Steve Gately

Monday, May 29, 2023 - 11:12 pm PT

Another, you guessed it, weather day for us. As it snowed almost all night, we slept in and had a slow breakfast of blueberry pancakes. Snow continued to fall throughout the day, and we had very little visibility around camp. Folks did normal rest day activities, like walk around camp, meet other teams, rebuild our bathroom into a new palace and change out our socks. We are waiting for a three day weather window to make our way safely to 17,000', to the summit, and home. Until then we continue to check all the weather resources we have available, and try to stay sane.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Our team took a well-deserved rest day in Puebla, sleeping in, enjoying the warm weather and soaking in the colorful city. 

Folks explored, some finding fresh fruit stands, massages and local shops for souvenirs. Others relaxed and connected with loved ones back home, letting them know about the adventures so far. Tonight we filled up on traditional mole, discussed other climbing trips and swapped many stories. 

Tomorrow we head off for our final objective. Orizaba!

RMI Guide Abby Westling

Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 4:12 pm PT

We woke up with plans to pack up camp early and move towards the airstrip, but the heat beat us to our plans. We trained this morning and are now hiding from the sun once again we will pack up or camp this afternoon or evening and move towards the airstrip when the heat is not so blinding.

RMI Guide Alex Halliday

We awoke this morning early again, trying to take advantage of another windless day. With blue skies overhead we were optimistic of our chances of getting to camp at 14,100' The crew had breakfast and struck camp as quickly and well as I've seen. Obviously they were some pretty motivated climbers. A slight breeze kept us wrapped up in most of our layers, and we even put on face protection climbing through Windy Corner. But the team climbed even better today than yesterday. However, leaving our high point of yesterday and ascending the final 700' to camp reminded us all of the big jump in elevation we were making. Although everyone climbed really well, even the strongest of the team struggled a bit with the last bit of elevation gain. But all this is expected and a normal part of the acclimatization process. An easy day tomorrow will find the team feeling better as our bodies adjust to the altitude. We're looking forward to it. Getting into camp early today allowed us to establish a nice camp, dry out sleeping bags packed in haste this morning, and settle in to our new home before the sun disappeared behind the ridge. Our bags will be especially welcome tonight. Talk with you again tomorrow. RMI Guide Brent, Leon and Lindsay

On The Map

The Shishapangma team left a voice mail message with the RMI office yesterday saying everything was going well. It was a little hard to decipher which is understandable coming from half way around the world via satellite. Here is what we were able to understand: “Hey guys it is the Shishapangma crew. All doing well here at Basecamp after carries from/to Camp 1. Heading up to Camp 1 again in a few days. Wanted to let you know we are well. We will be heading up again soon.”

This morning we awoke to stars above, starting our climb in beautiful weather. On the long traverse to the saddle between the mountain’s east and west summits we had a spectacular sunrise, and views deep into the Caucasus. This evolved quickly though into whiteness, as we climbed into a chilly cloud cap. Despite the weather we were able to ski right off the top and while visibility was marginal, the snow was excellent by high altitude ski mountaineering standards. In my experience, any 6000’ spring descent usually starts a little scratchy up high, has a magic perfectly sun softened middle section, and finishes a little too soft. That’s exactly how today was, but the magic middle section also included the magic of bursting through the clouds to a world of color, light and contrast beneath. Worth the price of admission as someone said in the moment. Now our team is back in the lowlands safe and sound, soaking up oxygen as thunderstorms roll through the valley. Life is good here in Russia. RMI Guide Tyler Reid

On The Map