Most Popular Entries

The weather forecast was right on this time... A day of snow. It was a little bit like the inside of a milk bottle for most of the time. There were a few hours when the clouds were thinner and the sun's heat could be felt through the storm, but the snowflakes never quit falling. It was not going to be a climbing day for our team and so we turned it into a fine rest day. Solveig Waterfall taught an excellent course in avalanche beacon use. Tim Hardin and Cody Doolan built the mother of all snow kitchens. The team listened patiently to old guide stories and chatted over the current events we could pick up from the Anchorage FM stations. We had a few sessions of cutting snow blocks and building walls around the tents. Mostly this was done for exercise and to get warm, since as yet this particular storm hasn't come with the wind which would necessitate walls. We are happy for that and are somewhat resigned to another day or two of this same system. Best, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Hello Everyone, It was a beautiful first day here in Quito, Ecuador. We started the day off with a visit to the equator which is just a few miles north of our hotel. The short drive through the busy streets of Quito gave us a brief glimpse of life here in this city of over 2 million people. We spent an hour at an outdoor cultural museum that is set up to show the importance and effects the equator has on the planet. Most of us were amazed to see the Coriolis effect in both hemispheres. It is true that water spins in different directions while being drained. After our visit up north we headed back to Quito where we took in the sights of the colonial old town. There was much to see in this city that was founded in 1530. Our stops included the monastery of San Francisco (built in 1535), the church of La Compania, which has gold painted throughout the interior, and a quick stop at the Virgin de Quito. It's also called the La Panicia and it sits atop a small hill and overlooks this beautiful city. We snuck in a very appropriate siesta after yesterday's long flights and wrapped up the day with a wonderful dinner full of good conversations. Everyone is doing great and looking forward to stretching our legs tomorrow. RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

Monday, February 24, 2025

Malinche day! And Melissa’s birthday!

Well, well, well we had another wonderful day in the mountains. 100% of the team made it to the top of Malinche and we were rewarded with amazing views.

It’s rained every afternoon since we’ve been here so we got an early start on the trail. We were sent off in the dark by a pack of friendly doggos. The trail went up and up through majestic trees and eventually we saw the pink of the sunrise peaking through the canopy. We continued on and before we knew it we could see the ridgeline of Malinche.

The views were amazing - Orizaba shining bright to our left and Ixta and Popo on our right. The skies were clear but there’s been some recent snow so we took our time through steep icy rocks just before the summit.

We celebrated with team photos and enjoyed the moment up there before we headed back down to La Malintzi for the night. 

RMI Guides Jess Wedel, Josh Geiser and Los Chivos

P.S. ONE FINAL FELIZ CUMPLEAÑOS TO OUR GIRL MELISSA!

Yesterday we left off with the group of Dave, Linden and Sara "hunkerin' down" at Camp I for the night, and, given what happened last night, we are sure glad that they did. Our climbing team was hit by huge winds last night at Camp I. In fact, the entire mountain (all the camps) was blasted with extremely high winds and frigid cold. Many tents were lost in the upper camps. Our team survived the night by 1) checking and re-checking the tents to make sure they were secure, 2) eating a big freezed-dried meal for dinner, and then 3) diving into their extremely warm sleeping bags. Sara, who was sleeping in her own tent, radioed me this morning after the winds subsided and said that she sure missed me last night because a couple of times she thought that the tent was going to blow away, and my extra weight would have been helpful. So, to be clear, my daughter missed me for my weight. So touching. After the sun came up the winds died down considerably and the team was able to move from Camp I to Camp II by noon today. Before leaving Camp I they took down the two tents and stuffed them in duffel bags and stored them away (just in case another big "blow" comes along). The entire team is healthy and happy resting at Camp 2 for a big day tomorrow. Assuming the weather cooperates, the team is going to move up to Camp 3 to sleep. Their sleep at Camp 3 will be assisted by bottled oxygen. Then on Tuesday (the 10th) they are going to wake up and walk up toward Camp IV using oxygen, and then return all the way down to Camp 2. The goal is for the team to be back at Base Camp on the 11th, and to beready for a summit bid starting May 18th. Bill M

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Walter Hailes called as they reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier at 6:59am this morning. The teams have clear weather with light winds, but cold temperatures. They spent some time on the summit before starting their descent back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's teams! RMI Guide JJ Justman's team was awarded with a beautiful day of climbing up to Camp Muir. The team is keeping their fingers crossed for good weather tomorrow morning!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and Team reached the summit of Mt. Baker via the North Ridge. The climb was windy, and partly cloudy, but warm. The team descended this morning and will Celebrate their success in Glacier, WA this afternoon.

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Taylor Bickford reached the top of Mt. Rainier early today. The teams climbed above the clouds and were greeted with clear skies on the summit! 

The team is in route to Camp Muir. Once there they will pack up their gear and descend to Paradise and then back to RMI Basecamp to celebrate.

Congratulations to today's team! 

Tent life continues. Zippers make my doors, frost wakes me in the morning as it rains down when I move about in my little constricted space. No complaints here, just a bit of longing for those creature comforts I appreciate for at least a week when I return home, till I once again settle in on expecting those niceties to be at my beck and call. We have been getting some snow showers, so don't forget to shake the toilet tent before entering or there is a good chance of getting a pile and I mean pile of snow down the back of your coat prior to entry. Definitely avoid this scenario, take my word that those three or so minutes of melt freeze down the back is no fun. Thank goodness for all the miracle fabrics from First Ascent, rest assured warmth is just around the corner.We have the cush life here at base camp compared to trips like Denali or what is soon to come for the team on the upper mountain here at Everest. The team went for a nice hike to Kala Patar today. A nearby ridge hike with beautiful views of the upper part of Everest. We are too near the base to see the upper mountain form here. Lam Babu and Pasang made a trip up to Camp 2 to check in on how things are holding up. Last thing you want is a big surprise when you arrive at an upper camp on a move day. He reports everything is in good shape. Sounds like there will be a push toward Camp 4 and the South Col tomorrow. A strong team will put the needed ropes in place to allow for safe travels to the final camp before the summit push. We will have a meeting with Lam Babu tomorrow and will go over the whats and whens to keep this expedition moving forward. Not yet the summit push but we are getting closer everyday. These rest days and upper mountain tactics have proven effective in the past. As the route gets better and the weather continues to improve so do our attitudes.The excitement of the summit is helping carry the minds and bodies of this terrific group of climbers onward and upward. All's well at Everest Base Camp, RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

3:21 am (Nepal time) arrive at Balcony. No direct radio talk to climbers but Dawa at South Col relays that the team is all together and all doing well. Breeze down here at Base Camp and looking up, I see some high thin clouds, a few clouds setting in on some surrounding peaks but word from above is weather is OK, not too windy. During this stop they will change to a fresh bottle of oxygen and store their partially used ones in a certain spot to pick up, and possibly use on the descent. They will be working with some metal parts on the regulators during the exchange process so it's don't touch any part with bare skin or congratulations, you now have some form of frostbite on your hand. Next up, the climb to the South Summit (28,750 feet). Start up from the Balcony along the ridge to some very steep climbing, that on a dry year would be a number of rocky steps. This year conditions are very nice in that they are mostly snow covered making it a little easier and less chance of rock fall hazard. Right on schedule. Right on track. Right on Dudes upstairs. Another few hours till radio traffic but should have direct radio contact from South Summit. Drop you all a note soon. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

RMI Guides Alan Davis and Seth Burns led their teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier in the wee hours of the morning. The team was on Columbia Crest at 3:45am. They reported good route conditions and are currently on their descent. 

Nice work team!