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Advanced Ski Guide Course: Reflections from RMI Guide Kel Rossiter

Mountaineering and music have much in common to share. When we consider music, we often think of pleasant noises combined together to make song—but it is precisely the silence between those bits of noise that make music more than simply a frantic crashing of sound. So too, it is with mountaineering: much focus is given to the getting up the mountain, but it is the descent that gives it meaning. You can no more have a successful climb without a descent than you can have a front without a back. And adding the mode of skiing to that descent provides an additional aesthetic beauty to that project. During early-April I had the opportunity to explore and expand my understanding of the ski mountaineering aesthetic through the American Mountain Guides Association's Advanced Ski Guide Course. This ten-day course is the follow-up to the twelve-day, introductory Ski Guide Course (which I'd completed in 2015) and is the precursor to an eight-day Ski Exam. With the benefit of RMI's commitment to the professional development of its guides, I was able to attend the Advanced Ski Guide Course in Thompson Pass, Alaska. Thompson Pass in Alaska's Chugach Range contains mountains beyond mountains. Thompson Pass is part of the storied Chugach Range, the setting for more extreme skiing videos than perhaps anywhere else on the planet. Jagged, flat-iron peaks are flanked with row upon rows of steep and deep powder couloirs that spill into massive glacial basins, with easy access provided by the Richardson Highway running through it, connecting the port town of Valdez with the rest of The Last Frontier. This makes it the perfect place for the Advanced course. Whereas the introductory Ski Guides Course focuses on safely moving groups through backcountry avalanche terrain and finding the best skiing along the way, the Advanced Ski Guide Course brings in the components of safe travel on glaciers (e.g., navigating in white out conditions, avoiding crevasses, dealing with crevasse rescue, etc) and managing skiers in technical mountain terrain (e.g., roped travel through steep rock and snow, belayed entry into steep terrain, effective group management in narrow couloirs, etc). The training covered a variety of techniques for safe skiing in steep terrain including belayed skiing. But there's more to it than just the technical aspects—because, after all, in ski mountaineering the focus of climbing a peak goes beyond just the joy of standing on the summit—there is the consideration of finding the most enjoyable line to ski on the way down. Having completed AMGA certifications in Rock and Alpine Guiding, I'm versed in the technique and mindset needed to successfully climb large objectives, and that mindset could be generally summed up with the word “efficiency”. Moving into the world of ski mountaineering has been an exciting shift of paradigms, working to also incorporate in the concepts of “aesthetics” and “enjoyment”. In the world of alpine climbing, enjoyment is often seen as what you experience upon completing the goal, standing on the summit and coming back down safely. In the world of ski mountaineering, standing on the summit is a necessary pleasure before the true pleasure of ski descent can be attained. A greater focus on both product and process that I'm finding increasingly attractive. The training covered a variety of techniques for safe skiing in steep terrain including crevasse rescue. I'm not the only one finding this product and process increasingly attractive: backcountry skiing and ski mountaineering is among the fastest growing segments of the outdoor world. And RMI is at the forefront in developing programs to help its audience enjoy the sport. RMI Guide Tyler Reid leads ski descents of Europe's highest peak, Mt. Elbrus, and explores Chile's renowned skiing with RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall. In 2018, I'll be doing a Mt. Baker Climb/Ski as well as a custom ski/climb program. RMI, long at the lead in helping climbers reach their summit goals, now has a range of excellent ski options to ensure that the descent is both safe and extremely rewarding. For a look at some of my other experiences with backcountry skiing, ski mountaineering, and the AMGA Ski Guide program, check out these links: • Mammut Athlete Team Blog about my ski experiences in the Alps prior to the Ski Guides Course. • RMI Blog post about my experiences in learning snow science during the American Avalanche Institute's Level 3 Avalanche Course. RMI Guide Kel Rossiter
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Mt. Everest:  Preparations Underway for Last Rotation

Cinco de Mayo and we are here with some nachos. No Margaritas, that will be later. Perfect weather, another beautiful day. Lots of prep work for the upcoming rotation. We took out the oxygen masks and regulators. They may use them if a night at Camp 3 becomes available. So important to double check the equipment before sending it up the hill. Our whole Sherpa team will start out early in the AM for Camp 2 and stay up there until Camp 3 is built and loads are in place at Camp 4. The Sherpa team is such a great group of men, we cannot thank them enough for all their help. The climbing team will rest one more day, then head up for the final rotation before the summit push. Dave and Seth have been doing fine work of all the details, what a couple of super guides we have leading this Expedition. A big shout out to Karla, Happy B-Day! Mt. Everest Basecamp Manager Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Hello Dave : We meet at base camp about 3 wks ago. I was on a 3wk trekking & climbing trip. It was the adventure of a life time . I had many high lights of the trip , right at the top was getting to meet you and talk a little about mountaineering. I’m thankful for the time you spent with me . Good luck on the climb with your team , be safe & may God bless you and your team !!!  Now go get #15.  Grant

Posted by: Grant phelps on 5/8/2013 at 7:38 am

Collaborative efforts from all team members and Sherpas can only mean success!!!!  The best of luck to all of you on the summit push.  Looking forward to pictures of your successful ascent.  Blessings your way. 

ABQ Uptown #985 NM/CO/AZ

Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 5/6/2013 at 7:24 am


Alaska Seminar: Great Day for Training

Once again we woke to a beautiful morning today at the base of Mt. McKinley. Our day has been filled with technical information. We have thoroughly covered rappelling, fixed line travel, self extrication from a crevasse, and reviewed our knots and anchor systems. We will continue to put these skills to good use when we implement them into crevasse rescue scenarios. The planes have been buzzing around basecamp today dropping climbers on the glacier. The climbing season is getting underway here in the Alaskan Range. It is super fun to be right in the middle of it all. Until next time. The Alaskan Seminar is signing off. RMI Guide Jason Thompson
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Brady…Greetings to you as you gather all of this valuable information..Hope you are having fun and learning how to extricate yourself from crevasses!!!  Love you, miss you, look forward to your return!!! 
love, Mom &Dad;

Posted by: Nancy O'Mara on 5/7/2012 at 8:14 pm


Kilimanjaro: Safari Begins

The RMI Kilimanjaro Team is now the African Safari Team! We have just spent the afternoon viewing wildlife in Lake Manyara National Park. After our celebration dinner last night everyone was happy to sleep in an actual bed for the first time in a week. After breakfast this morning we left the Dik Dik hotel and drove a few hours to Lake Manyara. Once we were there we rolled the tops back on our Land Cruisers for optimal animal spotting. The safaris here never disappoint and today was no exception. Elephants, giraffes, water buffalo and more monkeys and baboons than we could possibly photograph were just some of the animals we saw. Now we are on the way to the Plantation Lodge where we will spend the night. Tomorrow we are off to Ngorongoro Crater! -Seth and the Safari Crew
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Mt. Rainier: Teams Enjoy Sunrise at Muir Peak

The Four-Day climb led by Casey Grom and Abby Westling enjoyed the sunrise from Muir Peak this morning. After extreme temperatures in the forecast and a very warm night, RMI guide, Casey grom reported that the team was already starting to bake in th sun at around 7am this morning. The team is currently on their descent and return to Basecamp this afternoon.

Nice work team!

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Great decision making on behalf of the guides.  Safety first, Summit second.

Posted by: Lee Hoedl on 8/15/2023 at 3:43 pm


Aconcagua: King & Team check in from Casa De Piedra

Aconcagua team reaches Casa de Piedra. Yesterday we had a nice overcast four hour day into Pampa las Lena's. This has been a windy and rainy trip so far. We had a nice asado last night and to celebrate New Years. We'll enjoy a quiet/unstaffed camp. We are hopeful that the rain holds off for tomorrow as we head to Plaza Argentina basecamp.

RMI Guide Mike King

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Happy New Year! Glad the weather has changed for you.
Wander is missing you but had a few good runs at the Cary trails. XO Momma & Dad

Posted by: Momma on 1/1/2023 at 11:29 am

Happy New Year!! Took the tree down today- pine needles everywhere haha! Missing you, Alison! Xoxo Lydia, Matt & Wilhelmina

Posted by: Lydia on 1/1/2023 at 11:26 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer and Team Cache Gear at 14,000’

Thursday, May 19, 2022 -  10:57pm PT

It was a perfect day to switch from lower glacier load hauling to actually climbing. The weather was clear and calm in the morning, so we pumped through a bagel breakfast, grabbed loads of food and fuel, and set our sights on motorcycle hill. Many teams cache at 13,5k just past windy corner, but we had our sights set on 14. The first several hours were pleasant. Sunny, but with just enough air moving to keep us comfortable. Rounding windy corner, there wasn't a breath of wind. The sauna turned on and we all had mild cases of heat panic. We cruised on into 14,000’ camp and got to say hi to Mike Walter and team, who were kind enough to top off some water bottles. With our goal secured, we turned and beat feet back to camp.

It was a solid day out and hard work, so we will reward ourselves with the first proper rest day of the trip tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and Team

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Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Climbs Turned Around

The Four Day Summit Climb September 19 - 22 led by RMI Guide Billy Nugent & the Five Day Summit Climb September 18 - 22 led by Zeb Blais were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams left Camp Muir en route to the summit but were forced to turn around at the top of Disappointment Cleaver (12,300') due to a cloud cap that was descending. The cloud cap brought limited visibility and increased winds. The teams returned to Camp Muir to rest and dry out. They began their descent from Camp Muir a little after 8 am en route for Paradise. We look forward to seeing the groups at Rainier BaseCamp later this morning.
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Glad you guys are safe. (Following Lissa and Joanna but glad for all of you.) You guys are a success for trying and going so far, and being willing and able to go the distance. Sorry the weather made it rough and you had to turn around at “Dissapointment Cleaver.” I’m guessing with that name, you guys weren’t the first to have to deal with having to turn around at that place. What an adventure!:)

Posted by: dawn n. on 9/23/2013 at 5:05 pm

Having made it to the top of the Cleaver with the team…  It was awesome. Rainier made it pretty clear it was in no mood to let anyone summit on Sunday.
I can’t say enough about all the RMI guides. They are great. Thanks, guys.

Posted by: Wytold on 9/23/2013 at 7:56 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Readying for Final Rotation

The arrival of May has brought a flurry of activity here on Mt. Everest. The number of climbers making their way up the Lhotse Face grew during the last few days of our second rotation as the route was pushed up from Camp 3 to the South Col and Camp 4 was established. The morning broke clear yesterday, suggesting a warm Cinco de Mayo, but by noon a small bank of clouds blew in spitting snow on us. Thankfully the clouds cleared and the sun returned, providing a clear afternoon for the first team of climbers, made up of Sherpas and guides from several teams, that was attempting to climb to the summit. Breaking through the fresh snow on Everest’s upper reaches, left by the brief but frequent afternoon weather systems we saw over the past few weeks, the team of Sherpas and Westerners established the route for this season. At 4 o’clock we listened to the radio crackle with cheers and hollers as they called down from the summit, marking the first climbers to reach the summit of the 2011 season. Although most teams are a week or more away from making their summit bids, we will begin to see more climbers making attempts for the summit over the coming days and weeks. For us, our third and final rotation begins tomorrow. Over the next few days we aim to climb back into the Western Cwm and up the Lhotse Face to our Camp 3 at 24,000’, pushing to our highest altitudes yet of the trip. This rotation is our final acclimatization round during which we will expose our bodies to even higher altitudes before returning to Base Camp for an extended rest period before our summit bid. This rotation will give us another chance to spend time climbing on the Lhotse Face, getting more efficient on the steep icy slopes and moving along the fixed lines at high altitudes. We will also break out our oxygen systems for the first time during this rotation. We plan to use the “O’s” on a low flow rate to sleep at Camp 3 before climbing a bit further up the Lhotse Face above Camp 3 the following morning. The benefits of climbing with oxygen above Camp 3 are equally psychological as physical – like most activities, adding new gear and equipment takes added practice and climbing with the mask obscuring our feet, the respiration fogging our eye wear, the bottle weighing down the pack all takes getting used to. The chance to run through these discomforts before summit day is a huge benefit for us. Yesterday we pulled out a bottle of oxygen and went through a trial run, practicing attaching our regulators, adjusting the masks, and walking with the system. Once Sara strapped on her mask and goggles she looked as though she has stepped out of Top Gun, a pilot walking around the tents of Base Camp. Today marks a month since our expedition first arrived at Base Camp. It is exciting to watch the transition of sentiment on the mountain and around Base Camp in recent days as teams begin to shift from a focus on acclimatization towards preparing for the summit bid itself. Although we still have a few more days of hard work before we can make that transition ourselves, the buildup is contagious. This excitement has been accompanied by a warming of the weather and it has been a warm (at least for around here) several days of rest here at Base Camp. Every morning once the sun crests over Lho La Pass, we pull out our chairs and stare up at the mountain, occasionally watching climbers in the Khumbu Ice fall through the spotting scope. As the morning grows warmer the ice beneath camp begins to melt, little rivulets of water running between the rocks, the surface of the camp gradually but perceptibly shifting as the rocks settle on the melting ice. All of these changes point towards the arrival of the final stretch of climbing for us. Bill has been very supportive in our preparations for the last rotation and Dave, Sara, and I are excited to headed up in a few hours. RMI Guide Linden Mallory
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sara—stay strong and focused. that’s all there is to it. i know you must be bummed, but of all the people to be with you in spirit, it is your dad. of course, you have all the rest of us armchair adventurers too, but we won’t be waiting for you at 17,000 feet. we are at home in front of the computer following your moves. a completely different story, huh?! just stay focused on that mountain. it will be summer when you come home, so it will then be playtime in the summer sun…. love ya, aunt mary.

Posted by: aunt mary on 5/6/2011 at 3:48 pm

Bill, ForEX in NY has been alerted to expect activity from Everest now that your games are abount to begin.
Sara, I have everything crossed for your climb.
Aunt Marie

Posted by: Aunt Marie on 5/6/2011 at 3:42 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Land on the Kahiltna, Establish First Camp

Sunday, May 15, 2022 - 1:10 am PT

It was an auspicious start to our May 12 Denali Expedition today. When we called K2 in the morning to ask how things looked they replied "unlimited visibility and perfect". We rallied a hasty breakfast and headed for the hanger. We had gotten all of our bags set yesterday, so it didn't take much to get the planes loaded and launched. The pilots were taken with how clear and gorgeous the day was too, taking several detours to show us stunning corners of the Alaska Range on the way.

We landed and hit the ground running. Fully loaded sleds and packs were an indication of the magnitude of our undertaking, but the team cruised through the 5.5 miles of mellow glacier travel, and we rolled in to our first camp looking fresh. Everyone is fed and tucked into warm sleeping bags and as we write, a stunning full moon is rising over Mt. Hunter.

We plan to carry a load up towards Kahiltna pass tomorrow and then return to camp. We'll be in touch.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland, and team

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