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Elevation: 11,300'

Hi all! We are back at 11,000' camp after a successful and gorgeous carry to cache gear at 13,500 ft, just past Windy Corner. When we woke this morning it looked like Windy Corner might live up to it's name; banners of snow were flying high off the nearby peaks from a strong north wind. We had a great smoked salmon breakfast and dragged our feet in camp for a bit to see if the wind would die, and it played ball! The carry was warm and calm, and the group moved great, happy to be free of our sleds, and to have lighter loads. The weather forecast is sounding stellar for the next handful of days. We're going to make a game time decision tomorrow morning whether to move to the 14,000' camp or stay one more day at 11,000'. We'll let you know! That's all for now; we're going to crawl into our warm down bags and get some shut eye. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the crew

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sounds like a great time! Please give my best to Nick.
Pam

Posted by: Pam on 5/17/2012 at 7:35 pm

Keep going.

Posted by: Richard Coleman on 5/17/2012 at 7:06 pm

Summit Day on Aconcagua

January 19, 2009

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 22,841 ft.

Last night at high camp, it just didn't seem like we would get a chance to make the top of Aconcagua... it was snowing and socked in when I sent yesterday's dispatch. But then, just before darkness came on, the snow stopped and the clouds dropped. During the night there were occasional waves of intense wind that could be heard coming from miles away, but these were short bursts and sure enough, at 4 AM the stars were out and the wind was gone. Our stoves were cooking by 4:15 and we were walking out of camp by headlamp at around 5:15 AM, bound for the summit. We had crampons on all the way and were lucky to be on snow for about 95% of our journey. Peter mentioned that he'd done the same climb without once touching snow, just loose rock, so we were happy with the conditions. It wasn't terribly cold and once we found sunshine things were quite pleasant. We lost that sunshine when we began the long, long traverse to the base of the Canaleta. There were perhaps a hundred other climbers going for the top today, but we ended up nearly in the lead by half-way up the steep and direct Canaleta. This broad gulley is about 800 vertical feet... easy at sea level, I'm sure, but beginning at 22,000 ft makes it somewhat challenging. We were challenged, but all did well, the extra nights at high camp had worked in our favor for acclimatization. We popped out on the summit at noon and enjoyed a sunny and wonderful hour up there. We were victorious and thrilled with the new views... but several of us cried like babies as we remembered our friend Fede and his tragic passing on the summit of Aconcagua all too recently. We left the top at 1 PM and walked quickly into a snowstorm. Not a vicious snowstorm, there was little wind, but a socked-in, steady snowfall. It only took us two hours to make it back to high camp and so we knocked the tents down and set out walking for basecamp. We were anxious to get down and rejoin the rest of our team who'd descended yesterday. In Basecamp by about 6:30, we had a fine reunion dinner and made plans for our walk down-valley begining tomorrow. An improbable summit became a treasured moment with great friends close to 23,000 ft above sea level. All are safe, all are down the hard part of the mountain.

Denali Expedition: Bond Girls Survive another Day at 14k

June 18, 2023

Posted by: Andy Bond, Jack Delaney, Joey Manship

Elevation: 14,200'

June 17, 2023 11:04 PM PT

Day 12 of our Denali climb.

Today we had a sleep in at Camp 3 and woke up in beautiful sunshine and 15cm (6 inches) of fresh powdery snow. We looked at all the climbers who went up the fixed lines to get to 17k camp for a summit push on Sunday, but we all agreed the night before that we need more time at 14k camp before our summit push. We hope for another weather window at the end of next week (fingers crossed). No worries, big strong Andy still has two pounds of cheese left and will be safe.

Instead of climbing, we hired lovely Lenhardt for an intense yoga session to get mentally and physically ready for this mountain. After that railroad, Jeff improved our eating tent to make it comfier for the following days and Katherine worked hard to make Joey's long hair cut more functional and fashionable for the mountain.

The focus of the afternoon was listening to music, chill outside, eat snacks and hydrate, and let our bodies adjust to the new altitude. We also improved our sleeping tents, so the polar bear can sleep well at night and doesn't attack his tent mates. In the evening, Heidi gave us a call to come to the edge of the world for the first round of Denali's Next Top Model. We stretched our legs and walked over to this stunning place where the mountain drops 7,000 feet to the northeast fork of Kahiltna. We had great views of Mount Foraker and the valley. We had a good photoshoot, and all the Bond girls made it to the second round. Heidi was very proud of us. When we came back to our camp, Mr. Bond had already prepared a nice dinner for us.

To finish the day, a short German "th" joke for you . The captain of a boat is calling the German coast guard "Help, we are sinking, we are sinking". The German coast answers "Ok, no worries, what are you thinking about?".

Stephan Schiffer aka Polar Bear

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wow! You are going to summit soon!! What a thrill and what an amazing achievement - so proud of you!

Posted by: Mary McKinley on 6/19/2023 at 7:05 am

Praying y’all get good weather for your next push! 17K! I can’t believe it! Good luck guys! Stay safe y’all!

Keep killing it Mikayla!!

Posted by: Mack Thompson on 6/19/2023 at 5:12 am

Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Acclimating in the Arctic

June 10, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Elevation: 14,200'

Tuesday, June 10, 2014 - 4:10 PT The first real weather day for us this trip. The overnight temps dropped to -7F not including the wind chill. Our early morning plans to move a few items for caching up to our high camp were foiled by the high winds -- 35mph winds at 17,200' and negative temps! Not to mention the squalls of crystalline snow flakes flying in all directions. The sun peered out from the flanks of the west rib shedding enough solar rays to warm the tents. With the brim of a ball cap we scraped the tent walls free of the frost of our night's breathing. Lighting the stoves in our kitchen tent soon brought the smells of coffee, bacon, and cream cheese with bagels. This motivated our spirits to make our camp a fortress. We spent two hours building large block walls and remodeling the bathroom -- which, I might add, could be the best one currently on the mountain featuring a snow free enclosed taj ma-stall! Not to mention the fact that RMI Guide Bryan Hendrick took on a project to expand and improve an igloo just outside camp...soon we'll have a monstrous underground lair for additional resting and wind protection. Sick! We are now taking a rest, drying out and warming up after a great session. The wall building serves as great acclimatization through light exercise, team building, and making camp even better for this time we're spending in this harsh Arctic environment. We will keep our hopes high for lighter winds, less snow, and a bit of warmth. RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Bryan Hendrick, and the crew!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Daveed, You guys are all crazy (amy) however Bud wants to be there, he thinks it is hot here. Hope you are having fun. I can’t send you too much warm weather or I will freeze (amy). See you soon.

Posted by: BUD/AMY on 6/12/2014 at 6:11 pm

Dave, We’re waiting for summer to start, but our chilly 62 degrees must sound balmy to you. Think summer thoughts. Stay safe…

Patty

Posted by: Patty on 6/12/2014 at 5:37 am

Mt. Rainier: September 23rd Summit!

September 23, 2012

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Eric Frank called in from the crater rim of Mt. Rainier at 7:30 a.m. The Five Day Summit Climb September 19 - 23 was just approaching the summit. They reported cold temperatures with light winds and an overall beautiful day. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens led the Four Day Summit Climb September 20 - 23 to the summit also. The teams spent just over an hour on the summit before starting their descent. They will return to Camp Muir to re-pack their gear before continuing down to Paradise. We look forward to seeing both teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Following you trip each day How exciting Love Mom

Posted by: Faith Bussolari on 9/25/2012 at 10:54 am

Happy Birthday Steve and so excited to hear all about your climb Take alot of pictures and will follow your trip Love Mom

Posted by: Faith Bussolari on 9/24/2012 at 5:11 am

Mt. Rainier: August 22nd Summit!

August 22, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Leon Davis

Elevation: Summit

Our Four Day Summit Climb Team led by Dave Hahn and our Five Day Summit Climb led by Leon Davis both reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Dave reported great conditions with winds at about 10 - 12 mph from the southwest and the cloud deck at about 7,200'. The teams are going to spend some time on the top enjoying the view before making their way back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrads to the whole team, your success if fueling my last 2 WMD of training! Any words of wisdom for this newbie to rainier?

Posted by: Edward muranti on 8/22/2012 at 8:34 pm

Daniel, Tonight hot drinks at high camp tomorrow the SUMMIT! everyday a celebration! laughing joyfully about your ice climbing adventure… Jennifer

Posted by: Jennifer Penn on 8/22/2012 at 4:45 pm

Everest Base Camp Trek: The Team at Chukung

April 4, 2012

Posted by: Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 15,514'

Mark Tucker here calling from Chukung. I'm not sure which one I like better Phakhing or Chukung. Pretty tight-laced. The teams in great shape up here. It was a nice about two and half hour about 2000-foot gain hike from Dingboche. It was just enough to get the blood flowing and breathing level up and still making that acclimatization effort. It's going real well, real happy with how the team is doing. The weather socked in once we got here to our tea house, and perfect timing for that. We hung around and had some food and fuel and did fine there. And then just in time it cleared up for perfect views and photos of fresh snow, on the white, tall Himalayan peaks that are surrounding us. We met up with our local guide, Perba and assistant/cook, Raz. We got a couple of nice guys. They helped out with Linden so they got all the recent information for the route, so that is great to have as well. Couple of nice guys and so thankful to have them with the team. So back in 1953 was the first ascent of Island Peak. It was made by a prestigious team. They were training in preparation for an ascent of Everest. One of those guys was Tenzing Norgay, who accompanied Kili on that famous day. So it makes you wonder if things go well here for Kim and John, could this be a stepping stone for the Big E? Maybe next year? I guess time will tell. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

RMI Guide Mark Tucker from Chukung

On The Map

Paradise Seminar: Team Wrapping Up Their Week with a Successful Summit

July 30, 2021

Posted by: Dominic Cifelli, Henry Coppolillo, Jackson Breen

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli led the Paradise Seminar team through training and to the top of Mt. Rainier this week! Various mountaineering skills were taught in order to arm these mountaineers with bigger mountains goals as well as feeling more comfortable in their climbing abilities.

The team is currently on their descent from the Mt. Rainier summit and will finish their program with a celebration back in Ashford.

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Flying to McKinley’s Kahiltna Glacier

June 13, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Thursday, June 13, 2013 RMI Guide Mike Haugen called from Talkeetna, Alaska this morning. The weather is beautiful and the team is packed and ready. They are loading their planes at the K2 Aviation Hanger and will be flying to the Kahiltna Glacier today. We wish them a safe and successful expedition on Mt. McKinley!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Have a safe ascent and descent after you all summit. We are so proud of you QL.

Posted by: George Landers on 6/14/2013 at 3:53 pm

Best of luck to everyone. Be safe and don’t forget to have fun.

A big shout out to Cindee Teer!

Posted by: Alyse Parrino on 6/14/2013 at 3:32 pm

Mt. Rainier: May 20th Update

May 20, 2013

Posted by: JJ Justman, Jake Beren

Elevation: 14,410'

At 7:57 a.m. RMI Guides JJ Justman and Jake Beren were standing on Columbia Crest, the highest point on Mt. Rainier, enjoying the views. There was a gentle 5 mph breeze on the “prettiest day in May that [JJ and Jake] have ever seen.” The teams began their descent about 8:30 and we look forward to seeing them at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon. Congratulations Summit Climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thanks to my guide JJ and all the world class guides at RMI, you made the climb an amazing experience! You guys are the best!! Will be back for more .. :)

Posted by: Bo on 5/22/2013 at 11:27 am

Congratulations to Taylor, Callie, Jake, Mark, David, Bo and Andy for a strong climb to the summit!

Posted by: Charles on 5/21/2013 at 8:39 pm