Walk a week or fly an hour? A very popular phrase with the bush pilots in Alaska. Here in Nepal, I will take the walk a week option.
If I were going to climb the tallest mountain in North America, "Denali", I would opt for the hour flight into the mountain, which drops you at about 8,000' to begin the ascent to 20,320 ft.
Here in the High Himalaya, with that hour flight they could drop us at Everest Base Camp, it sits around 17,300', you would be in a world of hurt, that is a bit too much of an altitude jump for 99.9% of all humans. So here I sit in a nice Tea house at 13,000', half way through my eight day trek to Base Camp. Kind of a long commute to work, but traffic has not been to bad. Yep another season of life on the Glacier for this Himalayan Veteran.
Excited for RMI 2015 Everest Expedition? I sure am.
No wonder RMI was voted #1 Outfitter,with the return of the finest Guides, for the climb and trek.
The reason I continue these wild adventures is the RMI solid commitment, time and again, to provide the best available resources and infrastructure.
The team is looking forward to sharing this Expedition with you as best we can over the next couple of months.
I wish you could be here. I know the challenges you will face in everyday life may not be as unusual as ours but in there own way just as impressive. Climb your own Everest. Get out when you can!
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Special shout out to -
MOM
HAPPY BIRTHDAY!
Love, Mark
Tuckie Wonder: glad to hear that you and the team are safe. Was due to volunteer at CIWEC in Pokhara later this year (we will see if that’s helpful or just another mouth to feed as the weeks unfold). Cheering for the enduring Nepalese spirit from afar for now. Travel safely, old pal. Cheers, Sara
Posted by: Sara Whitner on 5/6/2015 at 9:44 pm
Hi Mark-this is Philip-part of the BBC film crew for Everest ER in 2006/2007-has been way too long. My thoughts are with you all in Nepal and am glad to hear that you are safe. I also heard Dave is good too and I hope all your team. Thank goodness. We are all devastated with the crisis that has hit Nepal and will do what we can to help in some way. I just wanted to catch up with you again and wish you well and safe journey home. keep in touch and hopefully one day we can grab a beer or two together or go climb a mountain or something. All the best Philip
Posted by: Philip North-Coombes on 4/30/2015 at 1:41 am
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Billy Nugent reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Billy reported clear and beautiful skies, but cold temperatures with winds of about 10 - 15 mph form the northwest. The team has started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Seth Waterfall topped Mt. Rainier in very calm winds and beautiful skies. The teams checked in at 7:15 a.m. and had already began their descent from the crater rim. With the cloud layer just below Paradise, they have been enjoying the view since sunrise and the weather should stay in their favor as the sun continues to shine upon them.
Congratulations to today's teams!
We caught our first real views of the mountain this morning when we emerged from the Barrels. The clouds were low in the valley below us, and above Mt. Elbrus rose clearly in the morning light. We could see the entire first portion of the route and high above, several teams were visible traversing into the saddle between the two summits of Mt. Elbrus.
We set out on our acclimatization hike shortly after breakfast. The cold night temperatures left the snow still frozen firmly, giving our crampons good purchase. We retraced our route from yesterday, quickly passing our high point and gaining elevation. By late morning the clouds returned and we climbed in a fog bank, occasional rock outcroppings appearing out of the mist ahead and gradually disappearing below us. By the time we reached around 14,400' - the same height as Mt. Rainier - a cold breeze picked up and we climbed the remaining portion in our jackets with the hoods pulled closely to protect us from the wind.
We reached Pastuhkova Rocks, at 15,100', and dropped our packs, resting in the thin air of today's high point before returning to the hut for a late lunch. The team climbed well today, negotiating the altitude and varying weather conditions well. It was a long day on our feet and we are looking forward to a mellow day tomorrow to brush up on some of the final training we still need to cover and get in a restful afternoon before our planned summit bid on Saturday.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
7800' Kahiltna Glacier
We had high hopes this morning at 14 Camp. The sky was clear and although we could see signs of wind up high on Denali's South Peak, we believed we could finally get up to 17,200'. At least we felt that enthusiasm until just after breakfast when I used the satellite phone to track down the weather forecast. It called for snow. It actually called for lots of snow... Like 30 inches in the next 24 hours. This was difficult information to reconcile with the sparkling blue sky and brilliant sunshine we were then enjoying. And it was particularly hard to reconcile such a possibility of big snow with our diminished food supplies. I gathered the team and gave them the hard conclusion the four guides had reached: we could not go up with such a prediction on our 17th day of a 22 day trip. If the forecast were even half right, we'd be trapped at 17,000 ft waiting for avalanche conditions to stabilize and by the time we were on our way down the mountain we wouldn't have enough food to deal with any further setbacks to our progress. In mid-July with no Park Service personnel on the mountain and with no well-worn track in the snow and with plentiful crevasse puzzles to solve down low on the glacier, we needed to anticipate further challenges to our descent of the mountain. We could no longer look up the hill. In fact, we couldn't even sit at 14 Camp long enough to see if the dire snow predictions came true since such a snowfall would set up a significant avalanche hazard threatening our route down to 11,000'. It was a tough thing then to let go of our summit ambitions while the sun was shining and while we still had food and fuel and while the remaining teams on the mountain reached seemingly opposite conclusions as to how to deal with the storm. But we packed up anyway and started carefully down the mountain. Ever so slowly, the clouds moved in, but we still had great views from Windy Corner and excellent traveling conditions down through 11 camp. It got a bit murky and mushy as we pushed down onto the main Kahiltna Glacier and we needed to be careful of sagging snow bridges on the crevasses of Ski Hill, but that all worked out fine. In just over six hours we reached 7800' and called a halt to the day's march. Time for dinner and some rest in our tents. The glacier surface is soft, soggy and not terribly supportive and the light is flat... Not ideal conditions for taking on complicated crevasse fields. We ate dinner and got in our tents as the snow began to fall. Our focus is now on completing the final push to the airstrip, but on our terms -when conditions are favorable.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
To Dave and the team, Sending warm wishes for a safe return down the mountain. I have infinite thanks to Dave and the team for maintaining safety as the number one priority. To all of the climbers (especially John M)- we are all so proud of you. Though your summit bid plans had changed, I am inspired by the journey you took to get there. I can imagine this being a memorable experience for each and everyone of you. I applaud you all for your inspiring patience, outstanding discipline, and stellar persistence in moving up Mount McKinley. Cheers to you all!!
Posted by: Jennifer on 7/16/2011 at 10:22 am
Dear Daddy and Dave and team
We know you weren’t just there to tick off a box we know that you were just there to have fun!!!!!!You’re the best dad ever and you’re very brave
From Claire and Sietse
Posted by: Claire and Sietse on 7/16/2011 at 9:58 am
The arrival of May has brought a flurry of activity here on Mt. Everest. The number of climbers making their way up the Lhotse Face grew during the last few days of our second rotation as the route was pushed up from Camp 3 to the South Col and Camp 4 was established. The morning broke clear yesterday, suggesting a warm Cinco de Mayo, but by noon a small bank of clouds blew in spitting snow on us. Thankfully the clouds cleared and the sun returned, providing a clear afternoon for the first team of climbers, made up of Sherpas and guides from several teams, that was attempting to climb to the summit. Breaking through the fresh snow on Everest’s upper reaches, left by the brief but frequent afternoon weather systems we saw over the past few weeks, the team of Sherpas and Westerners established the route for this season. At 4 o’clock we listened to the radio crackle with cheers and hollers as they called down from the summit, marking the first climbers to reach the summit of the 2011 season. Although most teams are a week or more away from making their summit bids, we will begin to see more climbers making attempts for the summit over the coming days and weeks.
For us, our third and final rotation begins tomorrow. Over the next few days we aim to climb back into the Western Cwm and up the Lhotse Face to our Camp 3 at 24,000’, pushing to our highest altitudes yet of the trip. This rotation is our final acclimatization round during which we will expose our bodies to even higher altitudes before returning to Base Camp for an extended rest period before our summit bid. This rotation will give us another chance to spend time climbing on the Lhotse Face, getting more efficient on the steep icy slopes and moving along the fixed lines at high altitudes.
We will also break out our oxygen systems for the first time during this rotation. We plan to use the “O’s” on a low flow rate to sleep at Camp 3 before climbing a bit further up the Lhotse Face above Camp 3 the following morning. The benefits of climbing with oxygen above Camp 3 are equally psychological as physical – like most activities, adding new gear and equipment takes added practice and climbing with the mask obscuring our feet, the respiration fogging our eye wear, the bottle weighing down the pack all takes getting used to. The chance to run through these discomforts before summit day is a huge benefit for us. Yesterday we pulled out a bottle of oxygen and went through a trial run, practicing attaching our regulators, adjusting the masks, and walking with the system. Once Sara strapped on her mask and goggles she looked as though she has stepped out of Top Gun, a pilot walking around the tents of Base Camp.
Today marks a month since our expedition first arrived at Base Camp. It is exciting to watch the transition of sentiment on the mountain and around Base Camp in recent days as teams begin to shift from a focus on acclimatization towards preparing for the summit bid itself. Although we still have a few more days of hard work before we can make that transition ourselves, the buildup is contagious. This excitement has been accompanied by a warming of the weather and it has been a warm (at least for around here) several days of rest here at Base Camp. Every morning once the sun crests over Lho La Pass, we pull out our chairs and stare up at the mountain, occasionally watching climbers in the Khumbu Ice fall through the spotting scope. As the morning grows warmer the ice beneath camp begins to melt, little rivulets of water running between the rocks, the surface of the camp gradually but perceptibly shifting as the rocks settle on the melting ice. All of these changes point towards the arrival of the final stretch of climbing for us. Bill has been very supportive in our preparations for the last rotation and Dave, Sara, and I are excited to headed up in a few hours.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
sara—stay strong and focused. that’s all there is to it. i know you must be bummed, but of all the people to be with you in spirit, it is your dad. of course, you have all the rest of us armchair adventurers too, but we won’t be waiting for you at 17,000 feet. we are at home in front of the computer following your moves. a completely different story, huh?! just stay focused on that mountain. it will be summer when you come home, so it will then be playtime in the summer sun…. love ya, aunt mary.
Posted by: aunt mary on 5/6/2011 at 3:48 pm
Bill, ForEX in NY has been alerted to expect activity from Everest now that your games are abount to begin.
Sara, I have everything crossed for your climb.
Aunt Marie
This is Linden checking in from the Basecamp of Island Peak. We are camped out at the base and had a nice walk in this morning with clear skies. Rolled into Basecamp about mid-afternoon and got settled right in as the weather blew in. Huffed and puffed for a couple of hours and now it’s clearing up. We actually have some clouds lower down in the valley that are snowing and the wind is bringing the snow up. It’s snowing right now but there are stars above us. Optimistic that it will clear out by morning. The team is doing well, definitely excited to be transitioning into the climb portion of the trek. Tomorrow we move to high camp and keeping our fingers crossed that the weather is going to hold so we can make a push for the summit the following day. We will check in tomorrow and let you know how everything goes. Take care.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
The Four Day Climb August 18 - 21 led by RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli and Drew O'Brien reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They enjoyed some time in the crater before starting their descent from the crater rim around 7 am. It's a beautiful day on the mountain. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing down to Paradise this afternoon and concluding their program.
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 8:15 am today. Utilizing a less traveled route on the northeastern side of Mt. Rainier, our Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons captures the best aspects of summer climbing on Mt. Rainier's far-flung glaciers. The Emmons Glacier route is truly an endurance climb, beginning on the forested Glacier Basin Trail and ending on the glacier-capped summit of Mt. Rainier.
The team has one more night on the mountain and a full day of skills training before descending tomorrow. Congratulations Team!
June 20, 2014 - 8:56 pm PT
Hi there, it's Tyler and team. We are standing on the summit of North America currently with our team. A little bit in the evening around 8 o'clock [Alaska time]. We are out of the wind on our side and it's sunny, beautiful, and everything is going well. We'll give you a shout and a little dispatch when we get back to safe and sound to our high camp. Hope everyone's well. We're doing great. Thanks for all of the support. Take care you guys. Talk to you soon.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
RMI Guide Tyler Jones call from the Mt. McKinley summit.
Wow! Wow! Wow! How exciting and what an amazing accomplishment! I cannot imagine the thrill you must have felt at the summit! I will keep all in my prayers for the decent and Jen….I think you should write a book! Love…Karen
Posted by: Karen Pratte on 6/21/2014 at 9:11 am
Wow! Wow! Wow! I can’t imagine the thrill that you experienced reaching the summit! I am so very proud of you…I think you should write a book!!! Be safe on the way down and I will keep all in my prayers! Much love….Karen
Tuckie Wonder: glad to hear that you and the team are safe. Was due to volunteer at CIWEC in Pokhara later this year (we will see if that’s helpful or just another mouth to feed as the weeks unfold). Cheering for the enduring Nepalese spirit from afar for now. Travel safely, old pal. Cheers, Sara
Posted by: Sara Whitner on 5/6/2015 at 9:44 pm
Hi Mark-this is Philip-part of the BBC film crew for Everest ER in 2006/2007-has been way too long. My thoughts are with you all in Nepal and am glad to hear that you are safe. I also heard Dave is good too and I hope all your team. Thank goodness. We are all devastated with the crisis that has hit Nepal and will do what we can to help in some way. I just wanted to catch up with you again and wish you well and safe journey home. keep in touch and hopefully one day we can grab a beer or two together or go climb a mountain or something. All the best Philip
Posted by: Philip North-Coombes on 4/30/2015 at 1:41 am
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