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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Summit!

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides James Bealer and Josh McDowell reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team had a little bit of weather, so they did not stay on top for long. The team is back at Camp Muir and will be arriving at Paradise in the early afternoon

Congratulations Team! 

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Sara’s Thoughts on Her Mt. Everest Experience

Yesterday I decided to end my quest to summit Mt Everest, and although I am still torn and wondering whether or not it was the right decision, I thought that I would try and explain to you why. Dave Hahn always says that he wants to climb mountains with people who climb with their head. Now, I don't always understand everything that Dave Hahn says (ha) and he says a lot of things (ha again), but what I think he means by this is that he wants team mates and climbers who think about the repercussions of their actions, who think about how they are physically feeling, and who don't push themselves into dangerous situations. Secondly, my dad ended his trip between Camps 2 and 3 (he says its closer to Camp 3, but whatever - ha). The end result is that after May 3rd he wasn't climbing with me anymore. So, for the first time in all our adventures, I had to be climbing by myself. Its been a bummer. Why I climb is for fun, and to be with my dad. And over the past 3 weeks its turned from being a fun experience to really more of a chore. Dave and Linden are awesome guides and great people, but they are not my dad. So, part of my job as a climber is to think (I know this sounds funny, but I know that a lot of climbers don't think). I have to think about how I am feeling, how strong I am, how much energy I have, and how much I "want it." As we started out our summit bid climb yesterday (the 17th), I was feeling physically strong, but I started to doubt that risking so very much was worth the summit to me. I don't expect others to understand why I lost my desire to go for the summit and to take the risks needed to do so. All I know is that you just can't manufacture desire to do this. So, as we got to our first break through the Ice fall I told Dave and Linden about my thoughts, and we decided to re-assess and walk back down. What I also didn't want to happen was to push myself to a very high point on the mountain, say 26,000 feet, have the winds blowing at 40 miles per hour, and me not wanting to go on. Then I would have not only have put our entire teams' summit chances in jeopardy, but I would have also created a huge safety situation. People would have had to put their lives on the line to get me off the mountain, and I wasn't going to allow that to happen. After we got back to Basecamp yesterday, I knew I had to make a decision. The more I thought about it, the more the right decision became clear - but repercussions of that decision were so scary to me that it took me awhile to make it. I'm was (and am) afraid that people will be disappointed in me, that people will believe that I gave up without trying. As I sit here I struggle with the same thoughts, did I give it my best shot? Am I just giving up? The more I think about it though, the more I am reminded of the reason I love going on expeditions so much, and that is because I love to climb, not because I love to summit. The summit is the icing on the cake, but you can still have a great cake without icing. I've done some amazing climbing here, and I think the difficulty of the climbing and the way I've climbed safely and quickly on this mountain has been as good as anyone. However, I still have a lot of regrets. The repercussions of my decision have made this last day a hard one. I feel horrible everything that has been "invested" in me over the last year to get me to this point and I will not summit. For a year I have been training, buying gear, ice climbing, backpacking and getting ready for a summit bid on Everest, and then when it comes along I have decided not to go. I know my teachers at school have made great sacrifices and invested a lot of time outside the classroom with me to allow me to go on this trip. I thank all the people who have been rooting me on, and sending me messages encouraging me on this climb. But I also know that it is the right decision. I do have regrets about this, and I know in the coming months that I will have even more, but I just don't think that I am willing to risk what you have to risk to try to summit this mountain. I also think that it is just too difficult for me to access those risks up high without my dad being there. And if I assess those risks incorrectly, the costs are just too much. So, all I ask of you is to know that I tried my hardest and please don't be disappointed in me for not reaching the summit. Sometimes its really not about the summit of the mountain, but what you've learned and experienced along the way. Perhaps climbing a mountain isn't really about the mountain at all. Sara McGahan
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sara, when I first heard about your decision not to summit, I wanted to jump to conclusions however, our friends helped me to understand what a strong person you are and we are all DEFINITELY SO VERY PROUD OF YOU. All of us were waiting to hear the story from you before being disappointed, and we all know the sacrifices you made and if you are happy, we are happy. Although summiting would have been an amazing experience, if you are okay without it, so are we. We are so proud of how far you made it and you will definitely go down in history maybe not for the summit but for the smart decision you made. You will be an example and a legend for future climbers. Hopefully when you come home, we can all catch up and you can fill us in on all of the wonderful memories you have made and you can reminisce on the climb. Yeah, we will wonder what could’ve happened but our curiosity is trumped by our happiness that you are safe and sound at home with us. Just know that we are all proud of you and you are a fantastic person and everyone who is disappointed in you, does not know your story. You know I am a harsh person and I hold you up to the highest standards, and even I am totally okay with your decision and GOT YOUR BACK.

I love you, Sara and hope you have some quick flights home because I cannot wait to see you!

Love, Kathryn M.

Posted by: Kathryn M on 5/20/2011 at 8:14 am

Sara and Bill,
We have all been following your blog and praying for you.
All we have to do is look at the incredible pictures to see that you have ACCOMPLISHED more than most of us ever would dream of even attempting.  So, congratulations on your climb and the successes you experienced along the way. I think there are many folks in Atlanta who will be happy to have you back safe and sound a little earlier than the original plan.

Posted by: Jennifer Leinweber on 5/20/2011 at 6:50 am


RMI Guide Seth Waterfall Receives Valuable Avy 3 Training

I've just returned to Washington after taking part in a six day Avalanche Level 3 course in Jackson, WY. 'Avy 3' is the highest level of formal avalanche training in the US. It is a professional level course designed for Guides, Ski Patrollers and other avalanche forecasters. One of the best parts of the course was interacting with the other participants who all came with a high level of experience. The instructors were top-notch as well, but the best learning opportunity came from the weather. Our course began with a huge winter storm dumping several feet of snow on top of a very weak base. This was a perfect recipe for avalanches and over the remainder of the course we were able to study the cycle as it progressed. It was fascinating to say the least and we were able to sharpen our skills while closely examining the highly unstable snowpack. The ability to take weather reports and our own observations, then build a hypothesis of how the snowpack should behave, followed by then going out into the field and testing our predictions was invaluable. It was a very productive week to say the least! I'm also very thankful for the professionalism of the instructors and the participants. We were able to keep the course very safe while also being able to get the most out of the time we spent in the field. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
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Mt. Rainier: Fourth of July Summit for Five Day Climbs!

The Five Day Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Matias Francis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier earlier this morning! The team reported a nice day for this 4th of July holiday. The team on their descent and we expect them back in Ashford this afternoon.

Congratulations climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Sarah, Nicole, and Jake on reaching the summit. This is a great accomplishment. We are proud of you! Be safe! Felly, Sam, and Kevin.

Posted by: Sam on 7/5/2022 at 6:33 pm

Congrats David & Stephanie!  Epic!  You two are beasts. Thankfully no 90mph winds this time.  Denali is next.  Love ya and happy for your success.  Mom & Dad

Posted by: Richard on 7/5/2022 at 5:19 pm


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Wrap up Week of Training

After a week of unexpected park closures and a wonderful spring storm, our first Muir seminar of the season has concluded. Despite the less than stellar weather conditions, the team was able to shift gears and make the most of their time on the mountain. Climbers learned important skills like route planning, glaciology, snow sciences and spent several days practicing and honing their crevasse rescue skills.

Congratulations team – we hope you enjoyed your time on the mountain!

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Mt. Everest: Team Returns to Camp 2

Update: 4:04 am PT RMI Guide Mark Tucker reports from Everest Base Camp that the climbing team has safely returned to Camp 2 (ABC). They will spend the night resting, eating and recovering from the summit climb. Tomorrow, Mark is looking forward to welcoming the team back to Base Camp.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to Seth, Dave, and the Sherpas, outstanding climb.

Posted by: Tom Waterfall on 5/23/2013 at 6:44 am

Way to go, Super Dave!!!!

Posted by: Mike B on 5/23/2013 at 6:32 am


Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams on Top!

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led be RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Matias Francis crested the crater rim at 8:15 a.m.  Although the sun is shining, the skies are a bit hazy.  The team will spend some time on top before starting the descent.

Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Its with great humility that I thank Pete and Matias (ma-TE-us, get it right, and sorry for teasing you about it) for taking me, my children (Josh and Molly) and my children’s friends (Dylan, Bri, Brett and Luke) up that morning and congratulations to Josh and Dylan (and the other 4 climbers that morning) for summitting. Also, Special thanks to Josh Hankin for the great instruction, Augi Fleeras for guiding my daughter and Bri down and for Nathan Delmar (sorry about the macramé Joke-I’m sure it gets old and for bringing me down and not dropping me into a crevasse) and David Price (you are just an all around good dude). You guides do something amazing and I’ve seen amazing. Not only do you shoulder the responsibility for taking mostly unprepared climbers up this mountain and protect our lives, but you also trust us tourists to belay you and trust us not to make a lethal mistake and cost you your lives. And you do it every day and not for the money (pizza joke really not that funny). Pete, Matias and Josh especially, you guys are truly the most professional, mature, confident and athletic people I have every known, a special breed of individual who loves and appreciates the beauty of mountaineering so much that you go to extreme lengths to share it with others, many of us who have no business seeing it first hand, yet you do it with confidence and poise knowing that when we fall off or fall in, you can save us. Pete, thank you for recognizing that I needed to turn around and sending me down with Nathan. Also Pete and Matias, thank you for not stopping until Josh and Dylan were at the top in spite of the route conditions. To Peter and Kerri Whittaker, only got to say “hi” momentarily to you but it was both an honor and a pleasure. Thank you for finding guides like Pete, Matias, Josh, Augi, Nathan and David so a kid (old kid) from Kansas who has always dreamed of the mountains could experience Mountaineering first hand.

Godspeed,

Chris Banwart

Posted by: Jon Banwart on 8/31/2021 at 7:50 pm

Great job everybody!!!!!

Felicitaciones Nicko!!!!!

Posted by: Jose Fulginiti on 8/28/2021 at 1:13 pm


Denali Expedition: SUMMIT!

Saturday, June 25, 2021 1:18 am PDT

Everything we worked for all came together today. We woke to nearly perfect weather conditions. It was game time. We packed and tied into the rope. A quick downhill gave away to steep terrain up the autobahn. Step by step we worked our way up the mountain. A breeze here and there kissed our cheeks, but all things considered was pretty calm until the summit ridge. One final steep uphill up pig hill brought us to the summit ridge. This is where the winds picked up. But we dug deep and pushed forward to the tippy top. What an accomplishment! The team trained hard, and it showed. They gave it their all and came out on top.

Congratulations team!!

Tired legs and bodies brought us back to our camp where we are resting up for two more big days walking to the airstrip.

Night everyone,

RMI Guides Hannah Smith, Kiira Antenucci, Daniel May and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to all. Awesome experience. Love what I am seeing. I can only imagine what it looks like in your eyes. Rest up enjoy the descent and have a hot chocolate lol.

Posted by: John on 6/26/2022 at 7:07 am

Big congratulations That’s so awesome……. big kudos to Jason and Jason ❤️

Posted by: Jo Anne on 6/26/2022 at 5:08 am


Mt. Baker: Hailes and Team Summit Easton Glacier

The Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier Team with Walt Hailes reached 10,781' summit via the Easton Glacier. The team had perfect weather and route conditions for the climb.

Congratulations Team! 

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Descending from Camp Muir

The Five Day Climb April 26 - 30 led by RMI Guides Avery Parrinello and James Bealer completed their Mountaineering School on April 27 and made the ascent to Camp Muir on April 28.  The teams spent the last two nights at 10,080' Camp Muir.  Climbers were able to ascend to Ingraham Flats but due to adverse weather conditions were unable to climb any higher. Today the team is descending from Camp Muir to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Bummer guys!  Sorry about the weather!  It’s all about the journey and not the destination though!  I hope you learned a lot, met some cool people, and are excited for the next one.

Posted by: Constantine V on 5/1/2022 at 4:16 pm

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