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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Descend to 14K Camp

Sunday, July 14th, 2013 Back at 14K. A couple of long, hard, exhilarating days have come and gone. When we left 14,200' two days ago, we were happy to even have a chance at getting to 17,200'. It wasn't certain that we'd get there with the leftovers from that two-foot snowstorm. And as we moved up, we were aware that teams were coming down from 17,200' because of avalanche conditions between there and the summit. But we had a perfect day for moving up and we weren't used to perfect days on this trip... we took advantage. The going was a little slow, what with trail-breaking, but it was better than we expected to find. We were able to walk on avalanche debris for a good portion of the approach to the fixed ropes. The climb up along the crest of the buttress was spectacular and difficult with our big packs, but all handled it well. It took 8.5 hours to reach camp at 17,200'. When we got there we were overwhelmed at the generosity of the teams who'd been waiting there for days. They gave us water and helped to build our tents... And most importantly, they pointed out that recent winds had virtually eliminated the avalanche hazard on the route to Denali Pass. They were going for the top in the morning and we were invited. It was just a matter of whether we could get camp up, dinner down, and people in sleeping bags fast enough that the team would be rested for a try on the top. The next day dawned cloudless and windless and our teams were all enthusiastic about a chance to climb. We took off at 10:20 AM just behind Rob Galler with AMS and Dennis with AAI. We'd discussed things extensively and were determined that the last guided parties of the season would work together to achieve this unexpected summit. Rob did a lot of the hard work breaking trail on the steep slopes to Denali Pass. We took over a little past the Football Field to make a route up to and along the summit ridge. Throughout the day, it seemed nearly unbelievable that on a storm-plagued trip, we'd get such a perfect opportunity for the top. The wind never blew and we were comfortable the entire day... no freezing hands, faces or feet. We hit the summit at 6:40 PM and stayed there for an hour, taking pictures, shaking hands and marveling at our good fortune. A few thousand careful steps later, we pulled into high camp at 11:30 PM. Everyone worked to get some dinner down before turning in. The guides were up for hours more, melting snow and filling water bottles. It seemed a great gift that the good weather continued into this morning. It is always rough packing up at 17K after a summit day, but it was made immeasurably easier by the calm, sunny morning. We set out at 1:00 PM and climbed ever so carefully down the narrow ridge crest and the steep fixed ropes with our giant packs. It was quite hot by the time we reached 14,200' and it seemed a good idea to set camp rather than chancing rockfall around Windy Corner. Tomorrow will be another big day as we'll try to make it to 8000', putting ourselves in position to go out the lower glacier early the following morning. Probably too much to ask, to get another nice day, but we'll ask anyway. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome adventure Super Dave, thank you so much for taking my brother to the top. I can’t even begin to imagine how outstanding the view was from atop Denali, with still winds and clear skies, oh my! Dave, please tell my brother he now qualifies as a Sourdough, no more Cheechako.

Posted by: Johnny Stevens on 7/15/2013 at 1:41 pm

Scott,

Congratulations to you and the rest of your team for a succcessful and hard earned summit climb. Sounds like the weather conditions were perfect and the views from the the highest peak in North America were spectacular. Hope you took a lot of pictures. Best wishes for a safe descent and look forward to seeing you and hearing some interesting stories about the climb.

Mom & Dad

Posted by: Wayne Adaska on 7/15/2013 at 9:03 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Carry to 13,500’

Tuesday, June 11, 2013 All these early mornings are sure getting us dialed on working in the cold and will surely pay off up high. Today we led the way out of 11,000 ft camp by a few hours and reaped the reward of hitting the sun at a not-so Windy Corner and putting in our cache at 13,500 ft in still, warm weather. The team did a great job and collectively we avoided baking in the afternoon sun. Now back at camp, the team is relaxing and recovering so that if Mother Nature allows, we can bump camps to 14,000' tomorrow. All we can do now is rest up and hope that Windy Corner lets us through one more time. RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thinking of Galen and the rest of the team and hoping that Windy Corner is not too windy for your ascent, and that the weather lets you enjoy the mountain at each step along the way.  Stay strong and safe. Kathleen and Bill, Arlington, VA

Posted by: Kathleen and Bill on 6/12/2013 at 6:59 pm

James and Others:

It sounds like “Miss McKinley” is making sure you appreciate what you have courageous chosen to pursue (and in due time achieve).  Knowing you ... you are enjoying the challenge even more ... while becoming even more aware of your unique adventurous drive,  persistence, and stamina!  Please help each other stay patient, optimistic and (most importantly) safe.  Best of success as you all continue to ascent!

Fred

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/12/2013 at 12:23 pm


Kilimanjaro: Seth & Team Hiking Above the Clouds

We are on the trail to Shira Plateau, our second camp on Kilimanjaro. Last night was calm and clear with a full moon and today we've been above the clouds all morning. The trail is busy with climbers from all over the world but our team was ready to go early this morning so we're ahead of the pack. We got our first view of the upper mountain today and we're all suitably impressed. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

good luck guys!
I’m jealous!

Posted by: Russ on 8/7/2012 at 3:40 am

Matt
Have a great climb
Love
Mom and Dad

Posted by: Mary Ann Krull on 8/4/2012 at 10:20 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team On Descent to Airstrip

Wednesday, May 31, 2023 - 1:28 am PT

Denali's 17,000' Camp is a necessary evil. It's not particularly pleasant to exist there, even when it's nice out. With our objective secured yesterday, we were all ready to get out of that high and forlorne place. We set out today to get as far from 17,000' Camp as we could. We descended the West Buttress, down the fixed lines to 14,000' Camp. After some socializing with the other teams at 14,000'. We set our goal again with the intention of getting to 11,000ft. It has been snowing quite a bit since we passed these locations. There was a good boot track in, but there was well over 12 inches of new snow blanketing the Polo Field and Windy Corner. We'll wake up early and rally to the airstrip with the hope that we can fly first thing tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Snow camping is fun, especially at altitude, but all anyone can talk about is beer and burgers, and it is time for a shower and feeling warm once again.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Reaches the Summit!

After two days spent on the mountain the Five Day Climb reached to summit of Mt. Rainier early today. RMI Guide Jess Matthews called in as the team was on the descent. The team has had great weather while on the mountain, and everyone has climbed strong. They will return to Paradise this afternoon. Congratulations team!
Leave a Comment For the Team

Aconcagua: Beren & Team Make Their Move to High Camp

Greetings from high camp at 19,600 ft! Today we made use of a good forecast and the first break in the wind in recent memory to move up. Now we are in striking distance of the top, getting ready for dinner before an early bedtime. The team again performed well getting here and if this calm weather holds, we will go for the top tomorrow! We've enjoyed everyone's comments and the crew is in great spirits having put forth an impressive effort so far. With any luck we will only head uphill for one more day before starting the long return to Mendoza. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go, Bill, Go.  Amazing.  Can’t wait to hear all about it!

Posted by: Sylvia Stanley on 1/4/2014 at 7:30 pm

Go for it Bill.  Good luck

Posted by: steve on 1/4/2014 at 7:19 pm


Kilimanjaro: Peter Whittaker and the Kilimanjaro Family Climb Ready in Africa

The Kilimanjaro Family Climb arrived in Tanzania and spent the day making final preparations and packing their gear for their departure on to the mountain tomorrow morning. Check out their video dispatch below. RMI Guides Peter Whittaker & Seth Waterfall
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What an amazing journey Samantha! Best of luck! Zoe and I will be checking the blog daily! Mac & Zoe Pappas

Posted by: Mac Pappas on 10/8/2013 at 2:50 pm

What an experience for you Sam! Bring back lots of pictures ... I can’t wait to see them!

Love, Mrs. Tyndall

Posted by: Mrs. Tyndall on 10/8/2013 at 10:37 am


Mt. Rainier: May 25, 2013 - Update

Hi everyone! The team today awoke to conditions that are not ideal to climb in. With all the new snow it just has not settled enough to allow safe climbing. So to enjoy and have a full mountain experience the team went up to Muir Peak to watch the sun rise. It's my favorite part of climbing. The photos simply do not do it justice. We are safe and we are happy and we are still laughing and having fun! RMI Guide JJ Justman & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hope you all are safe & in good spirits…enjoying the immense beauty & good company.  Praying you have safe conditions for a successful climb. Love to you, Brian!  Your sis, L

Posted by: Laurie Huck on 5/25/2013 at 3:22 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Establish First Camp

The team did strong work today, shouldering a load out of base camp that would have made an ox shudder. Each climber probably had north of 100lbs of gear between pack and sled. We schussed down Heart Break Hill relatively smoothly, given the load and started the long, gradual accent of the Kahiltna. The weather was beyond perfect. Blue skies, warm, probably too warm for a bit, but then a gentle kiss of breeze cooled us down. 

6 hours of that steady diesel truck burn brought us to our first real camp of the climb at the Base of Ski Hill. We spent the next couple hours establishing a routine that will become quite familiar: building tent platforms, erecting tents, digging kitchens, bathrooms, melting water, making dinner, and finding time for self-care.

Tomorrow, we will look to move a load uphill and cache before returning to this same camp. We will all be happy for lighter loads. 
Wish us bon voyage.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Best to Pete + crew…Look forward to following along…Wshing success…From flatlands of Indiana.

Posted by: Walter Glover on 5/14/2023 at 10:07 am

bon voyage~
and well done team!

Posted by: Lyds on 5/13/2023 at 5:23 pm


Ecuador Volcanoes: Wittmier & Team Take Acclimatization Hike and Leave the City

Today was our second acclimatization hike and a travel day as well. It was another perfectly clear day, about as nice as I have seen here. There is a bit of a haze in the valleys from eruptions and perhaps a bit of an inversion. Despite the haze, we were treated to views of Cayambe all day, from a variety of angles.

We are now relaxing at La Casa Sol and mentally relaxing, with our harder objectives lying ahead. Now we just hope this dry weather doesn’t run out for Cayambe and Antisana!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Love the updates and pictures!!! All the Best Dustin and Team!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 1/29/2023 at 3:36 am

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