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Thursday, June 20th, 2013 We made the move. The wind was blowing most of the night last night. I set my alarm for 2:30 a.m. just to see if the weather was going to allow us to move up camps. Right when my alarm went off, it was as if someone hit a switch and turned the wind off. We got up, packed up camp, and headed up another 3,000 feet. The move only took us about six hours to hike, but we had to work hard building snow walls once we arrived at Denali's 14k camp. This camp, as much or more than the other camps we have been in this far, can receive huge winds that pick up at a moment's notice. We used snow saws to quarry blocks of snow to make walls that surround our tents. All of this hard work will pay off with a full rest day tomorrow. The sun does not hit this camp until around nine in the morning. I am pretty sure that none of us will be out of our tents until he sun warms us up! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the RMI Summit Team 6

On The Map

Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Casey Grom and Eric Frank reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:40 a.m. PST. RMI Guide Thomas Greene reported clear and cold conditions on the top with winds of 20 - 25 mph and the cloud deck at 7500'. The teams spent some time in the crater and have started their descent back to Camp Muir. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by Billy Nugent also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. The team will spend the remainder of their time on the mountain training and plan to arrive back at Ashford Basecamp in the early afternoon on Friday. Congratulations to today's teams!

Waking to perfect conditions, clear and near windless, we decided to saddle up and move on up to Genet Basin and make a new home at 14,000 feet. Our hard work yesterday really paid off, leaving us with a perfect trail to camp. It was even downright hot as we pulled into camp and we found a great camp left to us by our friends now living at 17,000 camp. Thanks. It was still tough, but our team held together well and turned in early for some much needed rest. Tomorrow we will most likely retrieve our cache and spend the afternoon relaxing and preparing for the fixed lines higher up. Cross your fingers for some high pressure. A week would be plenty. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Today we climbed to the summit Kala Patar. It's a small peak across on the valley from Everest on the lower slopes of Pumori. The views of Everest and the surrounding peaks are stunning from this vista. The team is doing well and we will check in again tomorrow. Hi to everyone back home! RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

Clouds everywhere was the order of the day. We had basically cast any hope for flying out today right out the door. The forecast was bad. Through a sat phone call to Joe Horiskey, our boss at the office, I learned that the Talkeetna web cam showed nothing but dark masses of rain clouds backed up to the mountains. And, it was crappy up on the airstrip. Come about noon I did notice the sun barely visible above the dense clouds, and wagered we would be flying out that day. But it was a wager to boost flagging spirits as much as anything. We all took to some serious tent time to talk, read, listen or play cards. Then...the familiar drone of a plane comes into earshot. Maile looks at me but we figure it's just a tourist overflight high above us. We look out the window and can't believe it's coming in! No warning from Lisa the Basecamp manager or anything this time. And then...all hell breaks loose as everyone scrambles to get tents down and gear packed. By the time K2 gets in we're ready. Flying out, the brief weather window closes and I'm afraid we'll be turning back. Maile's knuckles are turning white with the trepidation we all feel as the visibility drops. It's snowing again. We fly out the long way out to avoid the more direct, but higher passes. But Chuck, our pilot, apparently had no desire to spend the night on the glacier, and we all make it out. Just in time. No other flights get back in that day! I'm finishing this final dispatch the next morning after devouring a huge steak dinner and drinking way too much of anything but water at the local watering hole, the Fairview Inn. We're on our way to Anchorage now where the team will part ways to reunite with loved ones. Leon, Maile and I have other plans. We're going fishing! See ya next year, RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Maile

Hola!

We woke up to sunshine and the sound of the river rolling below us. We normally have a dining tent that we eat in but we opted for a plain aire breakfast because the weather was just too good! It was our shortest day on the trail so we took our time this morning to enjoy an extra cup of coffee before we packed up and headed out.

Our route meandered downhill and we stopped frequently to learn about the flora and fauna around us - pink flowers used to treat colds, mint plants for stomach ailments, brilliant fuschias, special leaves used for dying wool bright green, and so many more.

We said goodbye to our cowboys and mules today - we’ve officially completed the Salkantay trek and are joining up with the Inca trail. We walked into our camp at Wayllabamba to the cheers of our chaskis who will be with us for the rest of our trek. We even had hot showers and a little bit of wifi!

A highlight of the day was the fresh-from-the-river trout ceviche and “jungle potatoes” we had at lunch.

We’re all sleeping well tonight!

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Machu Picchu team

PC: Jess Wedel

Sunday, June 6, 2021 - 3:43 pm PT

We got an early start from Denali's 14K Camp. The route up to the fixed lines was in the cold shadow of the mountain. This let the team feel how cold their toes and fingers will be on summit day. We climbed up the fixed lines that allow us to access the West Buttress of Denali. The weather was clear and calm at the top. We got some pictures and decided to cache there and head back to camp instead of dealing with descending traffic later in the day. Another active rest day has us enjoying warm tents and sport eating to decrease the amount of food weight we down carry. We’ll likely rest tomorrow and see what the forecast says about a move and summit attempt mid-late week.

RMI Guide Mike King

The Expedition Skill Seminar - Muir reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning at 7:25 am PT. RMI Guide Casey Grom reported a beautiful day with clear skies, light winds and cool temperatures. The team will descend to Camp Muir (10,060') where they will spend their final night on the mountain and conclude their training tomorrow with a final descent to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Seminar team!

Wednesday, July 10, 2013 Last night's snow shower turned into the "heavy fall of snow" that we've been promised on a daily basis by our forecasts these last ten days. It snowed, it snowed and then it snowed some more here at 14,200 ft. We estimated that it was coming down at a rate of 3 inches per hour. Zeb got out at three to rally a shovel brigade in retaking the camp from the tent-bending powder deluge. We could hear great avalanches roaring repeatedly down the steep and icy flanks of the West Buttress. It didn't ease until around nine in the morning, by which point we figured about 24 inches had fallen overnight. Needless to say, today was not a climbing day for us. The wind was still pulling huge streamers of snow off the route we'd hoped to trace along the crest of the Buttress. And the slopes leading to the ridge were now all suspect in terms of snow stability. So much snow falling so quickly doesn't give the stuff a chance to settle. One of the ways it settles on a mountainside is to avalanche. There was plenty of visual evidence (when the clouds parted for a minute here and there) that a number of avalanches had already occurred on the route to the fixed ropes, but there were also still vast stretches of undisturbed deep new snow. We needed a hot and sunny day to glue things in place and to make it all safe again. But you can't always get what you need. Our day was mostly cloudy with light snow showers. Zebulon gave a great lesson in basic snow science, demonstrating how to identify weak layers in the snow pack, how to compare the hardness of those layers, and in how to conduct a "compression test" on an isolated column of snow in a study pit. Our climbers then dug their own pits and made their own observations as a way of understanding our challenge in these next few days. We need to figure out the level of hazard that exists on the slopes above us without exposing ourselves to that very hazard. And we don't have much time to do it in. We only have a couple more days of food available. Our greater cache of food is now the one sitting above the suspect slopes... In perfect position for our summit bid, but out of our reach until we determine that the avalanche hazard has diminished. Lots to figure out on Denali. We aren't alone though. The other teams, mostly at 17 camp have similar dilemmas What we all need, first and foremost, is a break from continued bad weather. As is normal, we need a little good luck. Despite the challenges, the team is still in good spirits. Today, we went over the blog comments together. We can't surf the web with our setup, but the RMI office was kind enough to cut and paste the comments into an email for us. Thanks, from the entire team, for keeping us in your thoughts. Best Regards Dave Hahn

On The Map

Hello Everyone! Galloping across the Vacas River we had a few team members think we were riding mules the rest of the way to base camp. However, once on drier ground we hopped off, thanked the mules for keeping us dry and began walking up towards Plaza Argentina. Now at 14000 feet the team has had their fill of fresh melon and juice. Acclimating begins now and the entire team is feeling good, especially after a hot shower and a fresh change of clothes. Tomorrow we will be resting. A full report of activities will follow. Now, it's time to set up the volleyball net. RMI Guide JJ Justman & Team

On The Map