Hi from Puebla! It's just after 11 p.m. and we just got back from dinner. It was a long and great day. We woke up this morning before 2 a.m. and started climbing just after 3. The night was cool and crisp but windless which was really great for us. Everyone on the team was very motivated to climb and we made good progress up to the top of the Ayoloco Glacier. From there the good weather continued and just over 4 hours after starting we were standing on top of Ixta. It was a beautiful day for climbing. The walk down went very smooth. We had a light breeze on the lower mountain (that's the big weather story for us so far!) and when we got to the trail head we were greeted with tortas, cervesas and refrescos. Now we're all set up for a rest day in Puebla tomorrow.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
What to do when the wind is blowing 70 mph at Camp 1 on Mt. Elbrus? That is the question. And the answer is tough filled with so many choices. Read my book? Nope, forgot it at base camp. Read Seth's Harper magazine? Done. Drink hot drinks? Check!
The team was productive today at Camp 1. We secured our tents for the heavy winds and during a lull we went down and retrieved our cache at 11,500 feet. We now are sitting on a stockpile of food and fuel so Bring it On wind!
Everyone is feeling great at 12,500 feet. And a little adversity does a body good. I just hope my iTunes movie hasn't expired on my iPhone!
RMI Guide J.J. Justman
All Team Members Safely Back at Camp 4 After Successful Summit
Voicemail 12:48 a.m. PDT -
Hi RMI, it's Linden calling. It is 12:42 a.m. your time - here in Basecamp. We just got the radio call that our entire team is back in Camp 4. They are settling in for the evening and are going to descend to Camp 2 tomorrow. Everyone made it back safe and sound. It sounds like they are happy to be back and in fine spirits. We will give you another update tomorrow when they get closer to Basecamp.
Group on Top at 8:00 a.m. - Nepal Time
All Five First Ascent Team Members and their Sherpa team were on the summit May 19, 2009 at the following times (Nepal Time):
Peter Whittaker - 8:00 a.m.
Jake Norton - 8:00 a.m.
John Griber - 8:00 a.m.
Ed Viesturs - 8:50 a.m.
Gerry Moffatt - 9:15 a.m.
They are descending to Camp IV now. More video, audio, and pictures to be posted in the morning.
Congratulations!
June 5, 2014 - 1:44 am PT
We're all safely back in camp, horizontal and happy at 17,200' on Mt. McKinley. And to no small degree exhausted.
It was a perfect day: sunny and calm with never more than a 5-10 mph wind. But mostly calm. A lot of other climbers were taking advantage of the good weather too, but traffic was nicely spread out.
Tomorrow is another big day as we descend to 11,200' camp to retrieve our cache and get on to a night time schedule.
All for now. It's cold and I too am ready to get horizontal.
Goodnight from RMI Guide Brent Okita
Hey Rick Popp!
Fantastic my friend!! I buy the beer and you tell me all about the summit. I talked to Dan on Wednesday and he was watching you to. Looks like you have many others watching this adventure of yours as well. Safe travels till you get home. Scott
Posted by: Scott DeWaard on 6/6/2014 at 6:49 am
Yay Steve!!! and team - congrats - Now come home and climb!!
I know I sound like a broken record but our Aconcagua team is both rocking and rolling! Today we woke up early and laced up our mountaineering boots. With hefty packs in hand we slowly made our way up to Camp 1 at 16,360 feet...officially.
For Geoff and I today gave us an opportunity to visibly see how each climber is doing. And it was obvious that everyone has climbed before. And climbed well. The team was in sync with breaks, rest stepping, good footwork and most importantly everyone was having fun.
We spent a half an hour at Camp 1 and we left quite a bit of gear that we will need for the upper mountain. So we are now officially ready to move up the mountain. But first we will take another rest day here at base camp. There's no need to rush. The tortoise always wins the race.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
are the two pictures from the archive or actually from the current trip?
Posted by: Ryan Junell on 12/11/2012 at 9:47 am
Good work Barrel I-you are awesome and glad to hear all is well. PETER- I have 12 copies of Mountains of the Mind for XMAS gifts for my Kilimanjaro girls and Linden. Loved the book but I know you were luke warm on MacFarlane. Thanks for the copy on Elbrus. Rob- Charlie is changing jobs. West Virginia vs Richmond? Love to you all.
We wrapped up our seminar on Friday with more training amid the continuing snowfall. What a week – lots of snow, wind, and great training. Avalanche hazard awareness, beacon searches, and the decision-making process of travel in avy terrain dominated much of the week. We also spent quite a bit of time on camp craft and setting up expedition-style camps. Of course, rope and anchor work, fixed line travel, crevasse rescue systems and other Denali-prep skills kept us busy as well.
Good luck to the Ski Mountaineering Seminar that starts today. The ski conditions look great!
RMI Guide Casey Grom
The last few members of the team are arriving back at the refugio after a successful summit of Cayambe! It was a clear morning, but quite windy above 17,000’. We will descend to Guachala today for some much needed rest before moving south towards Cotopaxi tomorrow.
Sunday, January 16, 2022 - 9:18 pm PT
On Sunday, we had an excellent day reviewing basic mountaineering skills on the glacier plus starting some advanced skills in the hut. Currently we are 20 minutes into the climb and it is a clear, calm night. Let’s hope it stays that way!
The Expedition Skill Seminar - Muir reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning at 7:25 am PT. RMI Guide Casey Grom reported a beautiful day with clear skies, light winds and cool temperatures.
The team will descend to Camp Muir (10,060') where they will spend their final night on the mountain and conclude their training tomorrow with a final descent to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's Seminar team!
We're on Ixta! Well we're actually at the Altzimoni Hut but we did get up to 14,600' on Ixta today. That means we set new altitude records for the whole team. That's always cool.
The day started with an 8 am pick up from La Malinche. Our fantastic driver, Rogelio, took us to the best breakfast in Mexico at the Hotel Mission Tlaxcala. Very nice.
Then we hit the market in the town of Amecameca for some last minute food and water before driving to the Altzimoni Hut. After dropping our gear we set out for a hike. We took the same route that we will follow tomorrow and I dropped some water at our high point. We'll pick that up on the way through on our way to high camp and I'll check in again from there.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
We are at high camp...17,000'! No more caches, carries, or moves. We are in position to go for the summit when the time is right. People finally started summitting yesterday after the weather no bueno that we had a few days ago. We are going to watch the weather and see what are gut tells us to do. We could go for it tomorrow if the weather is perfect AND we feel like it. We won't know until Elias and I wake up in the morning and rock, paper, scissors to see who has to stick our head out of the tent first. It tends to be a bit cold in the morning at 17,000' in Alaska.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Stay warm Louie. Emma and I are thinking of you everyday!
Posted by: Rachel Kayatin on 8/30/2012 at 4:45 pm
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