A week of hail storms, dark clouds and lightning was nice and all, but as we drove closer to Tlachichuca and were treated to a stunning view of 18,500 foot Pico de Orizaba backed only by a blue sky, it felt like spring break.
We were running early and carried that luck all the way up the two hour 4x4 road to Piedra Grande, our Orizaba high camp at 14,000 feet. Dinner was at 4:30pm, and bed time came early at 5:30pm. This allowed us room to at least claim that we’d gotten some good sleep when tents were rattled at 11:30pm.
As we climbed under a bright half moon with light winds it seemed like cheating. After single-pushing on Ixta what we’d normally do in two days, a simple 4,500 foot climb was coming easy. That is until we hit the 17,000 foot mark and things started to grind.
But just as things were getting tougher with the elevation, Orizaba gave us all the classics. An amazing sunrise, the pyramid mountain shadow and finally the false summit with only a short walk to the true summit.
We all stood on top of the highest point in Mexico and third highest point in North America in the warm sun with barely any wind.
A great finish to a strong trip by all our climbers!
We said goodbye to the Condoriri mountain range, and loaded our van to head to our second mountain Huayna Potosi which stands just over 6,000 meters. We arrived at our base hut, which is actually Adriam and Domilita house that they open up to climbers. Adriam is our head porter and we leisurely packed our packs and gear for our journey up to high hut (17,000’) where will spend a little bit of time before heading for the summit. From their house we have amazing views of the route we’ll be climbing up Huayna. As the sun began to set the winds starting cranking and we were happy to be inside than out in the tents. Adriam built us a fire and we enjoyed a big family dinner that included a cake for Katherine’s birthday. We awoke this morning to sunny skies and calm winds. We’ll be heading to high camp in the coming hours. We’ll take a short rest before starting our summit attempt early in the morning. Fingers crossed that the winds co-operate for us!
Sunday, May 26, 2013
Bagels fried in butter, slathered in cream cheese and accompanied with smoked salmon and bacon. It was the perfect fuel to start us out on the perfect day. Clear, calm skies prevailed over the Alaska Range once again and shortly after 9:30 we were hoofing it down to pick up our cache at 9500'. Everyone cruised up and down, allowing us a quasi rest day upon our return to camp around 1:00.
A little afternoon training with our crampons and ice axes will serve us well as we start climbing some steeper terrain tomorrow. Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill, the Polo Field and Windy Corner will be some of the areas we'll climb through on our way to caching a bunch of food and supplies at 13,500'. We're looking forward to an exciting and challenging day.
As we were preparing to settle in for our dinner of burritos we got a pleasant surprise when the first RMI trip arrived in camp after summiting on a perfect day yesterday. It is exciting to see our friends, and certainly gets us stoked for the climbing to come. We're hoping for some similar conditions when it comes our turn to go for the summit. But for now, we'll just concentrate on the matter at hand. Getting our cache to 13,500'.
We'll be getting up fairly early in order to get back to camp with time to relax and prepare for the next day.
Until then ...
RMI Guides Brent, Logan, Leah
I think George is jealous about your trip. Next time take him too…
Posted by: susan birnbaum on 5/28/2013 at 3:17 pm
Razzle-dazzle & Ray Ray,
What an amazing experience! I remember you telling me about the fried bagels as we sat in the sun trying to imagine what your climb would be like. Can’t believe it’s really happening. Be in every moment, absorb it all: the sound of the snow, your heightened sense of awareness, the way you can read the terrain… It’s you and the mountain.
Miss you, love you,
-E
We said goodbye to Elbrus Base Camp and our newly made friends yesterday morning and climbed back into the 4x4 sprinter van for the drive out to Kislovodsk, but not before putting another couple of hours into the hut, finishing the roof. What's left is some trim work and flooring. It was fun to leave knowing that we had left a small mark of our passing, and had helped in some small way.
The drive out was as exhilarating as the drive in, bouncing and grinding our way up the rough dirt track with the steep green slopes of the Caucasus just to the right of our wheels. Once we reached pavement everyone let out a collective breath and settled in. Once in Kislovodsk, we did what every climber does after a long expedition: took showers, shaved, and went looking for food and drink. Those comforts of town feel so much more pleasurable after being deprived of them for a little while. We made merry, celebrating one last night as a full team, and convincing the DJ at the restaurant to bring a little of home back by playing some Garth Brooks.
This morning we will part ways with a few of our team members as they head for home, and the rest of us head to St. Petersburg to spend a day exploring the art, architecture and culture of another great Russian city. We'll try to send some photos!
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team
Waking once the sun began to warm the tents was a welcome treat at 19,600 feet. Having that last cup of coffee in the rarified air of high camp before packing up and starting the beautiful and lengthy descent really let the last few weeks settle in. We have climbed on the highest mountain outside of Asia and now turn the skiff towards home. It is this point of the trip where we get to see how far out we've gone because there is no more out to go, just back. Retracing our steps back home will take a few days and is a wonderful way to let this adventure sink in. See you all soon!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
To Bill and the team - what an amazing accomplishment! This is something to remember for the rest of your lives..Congratulations and safe travels onward..
Carol (Rita, and Bill)
Posted by: Carol on 1/6/2014 at 12:07 pm
Great job, to the team and to my friend Monica. I can’t begin to understand how amazing that accomplishment must feel. Have a great trek down the mountain and stay safe! Ivory
We enjoyed another sunny day at Base Camp and thus a few more rounds of horseshoes. Our team is getting rested and well fed - two important "to do" items prior to starting our big push for the summit of Mt. Everest. The team has been finalizing their equipment, deciding on the food items they will take, adjusting their boots, etc. etc. There are more teams on the upper mountain getting in position for their summit attempt. We are expecting some teams will make the summit tonight. It is always hard to be an observer but we are banking with the old saying "good things come to those who wait".
I guess that goes for you too, since you will have to wait for our next dispatch. ..
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
A well deserved rest day yesterday paid dividends today. The team moved efficiently to 11,000 feet where we set up a deluxe camp. The weather greeted us with a nice cold headwind with some fresh snow in the track, but that was not too much of an obstacle for our team.
We worked hard to furnish camp after arriving this afternoon. Our cook tent is especially posh and our tent platforms are perfectly flat with a 5-star covered rest area. We plan on enjoying the camp we have crafted for the next few days as we rest and shuttle loads.
We look forward to retrieving our cache at 10,000 feet tomorrow, a relatively short day, then rest and indulging on the treats in our currently cashed goodie bags. Eating well means feeling well in the mountains and this is something this crew knows well! Till tomorrow, the whole team says hi to all.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Rolf, Grandpa John celebrated his 92nd birthday this week by buying a new bike. Says he wished he had taken a trip like this and would have joined you if he were only younger.
Posted by: Martha Snyder on 6/7/2012 at 8:17 pm
Go Rolf Go!! We are thinking about you and following these blog updates with excitement. Up, up and away! Best of luck!
The August 3 - 6 Summit Climbs led by Dave Hahn and Pete Van Deventer called down at 7:30 a.m. saying that they had reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. It was nice up top with light winds. The teams left the summit at 8:20 a.m. to descend back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations!
Hey RMI this is Linden Mallory calling from the Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak Team. I am calling from Gorak Shep up here at about 17,000’ along the edges of the Khumbu Glacier. This is the last town before we reach Basecamp tomorrow.
It’s an absolutely gorgeous night here in the Himalaya. We had a wonderful day today we left Lobuche early this morning and walked up the valley crossing over the Tonkhu Glacier which is a little tributary glacier from the main Khumbu Glacier. We arrived into Gorak Shep about mid morning.
Our main objective for the day was a climb of Kala Patar. It’s across the valley from Everest about 18,500’. After arriving in Gorak Shep we grabbed some tea, filled our water bottles and set off. The team climbed phenomenally well. It was really quite impressive. All the time we spent acclimatizing certainly paid off in spades.
We got up to Kala Patar by mid day and we just had incredible views across the valley of Everest. We could see the summit, Hillary Step, the south summit, all the way down to the South Col. Looking down on the upper portion of the Lhotse face. We could also see over to Lolok Pass over to Xingatzi which is sitting in Tibet. It was pretty neat to be able to see over the boarder. We could also see down the valley toward Ama Dablam and the peaks that we walked by the first few days of our trek.
So after hanging out up there for a little bit we motored back down to our tea house here in Gorak Shep and spent the afternoon just hanging out and resting and adjusting to the altitude. 17,000’ is definitely pretty high and we are all feeling it. Again the team is doing really well and we are all having a great time.
The plan tomorrow is to leave Gorak Shep and walk the final couple of miles into Basecamp and set up shop there for the next couple of nights.
We will try to push out some photos. The connection this high up the valley is spotty at best but I’ll do my best to get some photos and more write ups out to you guys. If not we’ll check in tomorrow from Basecamp. Take care.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory checks in from Gorak Shep
Lisa gave me this link to your blog. Really enjoying following along. It brings back great memories of my trek into base camp. I gave Lisa a prayer flag that I brought back from Nepal to hang at your house until your return. I’ll be praying to the weather gods for good weather for an ascent. Keep safe and warm. Can’t wait to hear more.
Clay
Posted by: Clay Rolader on 4/3/2011 at 5:41 am
Hi Tim! I have finally been found by the chest cold that everyone has had. Papa and I are a few days into it. I am totally living through your notes and pictures! I can imagine the cold clear air as you take each rest step. Sounds like you are with a wonderful group! I just adore Linden’s descriptions. I almost feel as if I were there. Please thank him for that. Honey, I love you and miss your sweet face every day. I go in the closet and smell your shirts! Pathetic, I know! I don’t care! I will be paying my bills sometime today, and then looking at making your boat and building payments. Every one is making this as easy for me as possible. Tom has checked in, skip and cass have both been here. You are missed! I love you! A&F Deb
Early morning in the Caucasus found us loading our duffels into the back of our van and heading from the base of Mt. Elbrus towards Mineralnye Vody. The three hour drive brought us out of the mountains and into the broad sweeping farmlands to the north, the craggy hillsides gradually replaced by fields of wheat and expanses of sunflowers. The road was a bustle of activity, with the markets in little towns we passed brimming with people, their cars parked number to bumper along the edge of the road. And like our drive to the mountain a week ago, the cows once again idled lazily in the lanes like moving road blocks, causing traffic to swerve around them.
Check In at the Mineralnye Vody Airport is a true mad house, hundreds of people jamming towards two check in counters. The concept of a line is a forgotten thing as people jostle their bags for position in the stiflingly hot air of the cavernous room. Once again, thanks to some "creative route finding" we got our bags checked and escaped to the "calm" of the waiting area - which thanks to air conditioning, made the wait much more bearable.
After an uneventful two hour flight we emerged from the plane in Moscow. The reports of stifling heat and thick smoke led us to have some trepidation about arriving, but we found the skies relatively clear and the temperatures quite reasonable. After collecting our bags we raced unto the city, past decaying communist era housing blocks and shiny car dealerships. In the oncoming lanes cars packed the expressway as Muscovites sought to escape the city foe the weekend, but the driving for us was quick and easy.
Passing the Kremlin and crossing just over the Moscow River we arrived at our hotel. After dropping our bags in our rooms we strolled back across the Moscow River and alongside the walls of the Kremlin to Red Square. The perfect summer evening brought locals out in force and the pedestrian walks were crowded with people lounging on benches and chatting casually.
The entrance to Red Square is always stunning, with the onion shaped domes of St. Basils Cathedral standing on the horizon, the giant expanse of cobblestones flanked by the red brick walls of the Kremlin and the ornately decorated facade of the GUM, the former State Department Store turned high end shopping mall. We strolled across the Square, examining the boxy marble mausoleum where Lenin still resides, beneath the colorful domes of St. Basil's, and passing over the painted lines drawn across the Square to direct the military vehicles during state parades. It is a special experience to spend time in a place that remains both fascinating and elusive in our collective history and we were awed by it.
After eating dinner we walked back across the river and through parks packed with young Muscovites socializing amongst the trees and fountains. We found it interesting that the play sword fighting seems to be a popular activity right now amongst the younger generation, as does Iron Maiden t-shirts and black eyeliner - certainly a change of pace from the rural mountain towns of the Caucasus where we have been spending our time recently.
With the sun setting and night arriving we returned to our hotel. Tomorrow we return home and end our trip here. It has been a fantastic adventure and a wonderful climb.
.jpg)
Happy belated Katherine!! 17k feet is your happy place, glad you get to spend your birthday doing what you love. Be SAFE!!
Posted by: Jessee Wyld on 8/12/2024 at 5:14 am
Happy birthday Katherine! I love reading the blogs about the mountain expeditions you’re on, amazing way to spend a b-day!
Posted by: Lori on 8/11/2024 at 9:44 pm
View All Comments