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Mt. Rainier: Ski Touring in December

December 22, 2011

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

The week of winter solstice was filled with sun, great attitudes and a wonderful time spent in the mountains. We started our Intro to Ski Mountaineering Seminar with a day of basic touring skills, equipment function and packing along with harness, rope, and avalanche transceiver drills. This was a great start to the trip with two young boys from New York and Ohio looking for adventure and building their mountaineering and ski touring skill sets. The mountain days were full of exciting new learning. Our first day on the hill we parked at Paradise and ski toured toward Edith Creek drainage and found a nice, secluded and well snow-covered area to camp for the evening, allowing us to make a run down a great slope in the basin. We covered kick turns and transitions along with many other key maneuvers while traveling the mountains with skis on, whether it be up or on the way down. Our camp experience was good practical winter camping… Cold…ish but clear and star filled nights. The second day we awoke to fog filled air. We leisurely packed camp and dropped some extra overnight equipment in the van. Around 10 a.m. we stepped in to our skis and started our ski to Camp Muir, 4,500' above at 10,000'. On our way to Muir we encountered firm crust and rime ice requiring us to make use of the crampons a few times and used them a good amount on a section of the upper snow field when our skins would just not grip. In late afternoon we arrived at Muir feeling the days work. We brewed up some hot drinks, had dinner and settled in the bunkhouse for the evening. The third day we covered loads of skills in the region of Muir including ice axes, ropes, cramponing, rope rescue and then followed with many of my other teaching tangents. We had the best weather we could ask for on the true winter solstice day in the Northwest. In our evening lecture we went over frostbite, hypothermia, and altitude illnesses. Today, our fourth day, we made our decent from Muir . We traveled a section with crampons due to poor snow conditions but still managed to get 3,200' of descent. In my eyes, any skiing is good skiing. We closed the week's journey back in Ashford over a refreshing beverage and a burger. The week of ski touring has been one to remember and I look forward to teaching more ski-based mountaineering trips on one of the lower 48's best and biggest ski hills, Mount Rainier. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Mt. Baker: Teams Enjoy Daytime Climb and Stand on Top

August 20, 2022

Posted by: James Bealer, Evan Sather, Brian Walters

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 10,791'

RMI Guide James Bealer and team have made it to the summit of Mt. Baker this afternoon. After the team's walk into camp yesterday, they enjoyed a late afternoon training session where they covered self-arrest, cramponing, and rope travel before heading to bed in preparation for their climb today. The team will return to camp tonight and walk back to the trailhead tomorrow.

Congrats climbers!

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Back home in Ohio! Thanks all for a great experience. So happy to make it to the top as we all encouraged each other to push on through and get as far as each of us could. Special thanks to James, Evan and Brian for making it happen for us all!!!

Posted by: Patrick Barrett on 8/24/2022 at 9:40 pm

Awesome experience with all of you!!!!!!
Thanks so much!!!!

Posted by: Cheryl Quast on 8/22/2022 at 8:31 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Turned Around Due to Avalanche Danger

May 30, 2022

Posted by: Grayson Swingle, Charlie Harrison, Mira Schoeberlein, Dustin Wittmier, Tatum Whatford, Nick Sinapius

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,400'

The Five Day Climb May 26 - 30 led by RMI Guides Grayson Swingle and Dustin Wittmier were turned around by avalanche danger this morning near 11,400'. The team safely returned to Camp Muir they reported blue skies above and a cloud deck below around 7,000'. The teams left from Camp Muir just after 9 am on their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later today.

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Dave Hahn Checks in from ABC

April 30, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 21,300'

This is Dave Hahn calling in from Advanced Base Camp again. Another windy day up here at the head of the Western Cwm. Apparently the jet stream winds are still on the mountain and it’s sure sounding like it. All day long big roaring noise as the air was hitting the south west face of Mt. Everest and the north face of Lhotse. And just ripping over the tops of the mountains. Didn’t make sense to do any hard climbing in those conditions, for us. That wouldn’t have worked for us anyway today we were into light exercise activities and trying to gain acclimatization. We all had a good night last night and we are try build on that. We just went for a short, couple hour long hike to gain a little elevation but didn’t get on to any technical ground. We returned back to camp and took it easy the rest of the afternoon. We are looking forward to some change in the wind and still surprised at how icy and dry the upper mountains are. I wouldn’t mind that changing a little bit and getting a little snow cover on the hills. But, everybody is doing well and we will keep you up to date. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in after the team's first night at ABC.

On The Map

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Thanks for sharing the adventure of a lifetime with all of us. I wish you all safe travels & good weather. Or at least the best weather that one can expect from the Mother of all Mountains. Looking forward to each & every update. Peace…

Posted by: Sherry Jennette on 5/3/2012 at 2:48 pm

Wish you great spirit and protection on the Mt. Following closely! God Speed…Judy ( Mt Rainier July 25-29 2011) Go Melissa!

Posted by: JUDY DAHL on 5/2/2012 at 8:56 pm

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Climbing through the Khumbu Ice Fall to Camps 1 and 2

April 25, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Yesterday we got back to Base Camp from a climb up the Khumbu Ice fall to Camps 1 and 2. The Khumbu was everything it was made out to be. We had previously completed a series of climbs into the ice fall that had provided us with valuable experience. But tackling the ice fall in its entirety was a new ballgame. We awoke at 4 am to eat breakfast and to prepare so that we could have a prompt 5 am start. We start this early for a variety of reasons, one of which is to have cold temperatures and a frozen solid ice fall. One of the biggest risks in the ice fall is an avalanche. An avalanche in the ice fall would not consist of soft snow, but solid ice (as hard and as brittle as stone). And since the ice fall is a constantly moving, dynamic glacier that is tumbling (in slow motion) down a 2500 foot cliff, this risk is ever present. So, the objective is to climb a solid ice "waterfall" - all of which starts at an altitude of 17500 feet. The actual climbing is a non stop series of challenges - straight up 30 foot cliffs of ice (assisted by vertical ladders), 20 foot vertical descents in which you repel down "batman" style, 30 to 40 foot horizontal crevasses (which are up to hundreds of feet deep) in which you have to negotiate five eight-foot ladders roped together, etc.. If it wasn't so dangerous and you weren't scared out of your mind, it would actually be fun. The idea is to safely and quickly move through the ice fall in a business like manner, always clipping into safety ropes, and to move quickly. There are only two places that are safe enough for a rest stop. Every so often I would steal a glance at the massive glaciers overhanging us and then just keep moving. Camp 1 sits at the top of the ice fall and at the end of the Western Cwm (at approx. 20,000 feet). We spent three nights at Camp I, and we were treated harshly at times by high winds, which I estimated (using the "guess method") of up to 70 mph. The winds were strong enough to break a tent pole in our tent (masterly repaired by Dave and Linden the next day). The winds slashed at the sides of the tent, creating a massive roar, which kept me up most of the night. There were times that night that I wondered what I was doing in Nepal at 20,000 feet in a tent in a wind storm. I am quite sure that Hawaii would have been a more pleasant place to be! The hike up to Camp 2 is quite beautiful and gentle (in comparison to the hike up to Camp 1). It is literally a hike up the middle of glacier. The most similar climb that I can compare it to is the climb on Denali up to Camp 2 (at 11,000 feet). The climb is a gently ascending 3 to 4 hour climb through a beautiful valley surrounded by some of the tallest mountains in the world - almost vertical walls on all sides and at the end of the valley the Lhotse face and Mt. Everest - what a spectacular day! To me this is what climbing is all about - the beauty was endless. Then, a trip back down from Camp 1 to Basecamp yesterday morning. As we approached base camp we saw a HUGE banner hung across the entrance to our camp that said "HAPPY BIRTHDAY BILL MCGAHAN - a day late!" Then, last night we had a birthday dinner that insisted of T-Bone steaks, chicken, French fries, cole slaw, all followed by a birthday cake (and included candles and a "B-" singing effort - ha!). The celebration was very appreciated and will be remembered forever. So, for now our mission is to rest for three days. We will be heading back up to Camp 2 and hopefully Camp 3 by the end of the month, and the idea is to continue to acclimatize and to get stronger for each of the next series climbs as we go higher and higher. Thank you all for following our blog and for your kind postings. A great portion of this challenge is mental - we are all going to have days that we physically feel bad, or are homesick, or just want to know what is going on in the NBA playoffs - and getting kind words of encouragement means a tremendous amount to keep us going. So, thanks again

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Bill - Happy Birthday! Nice way to spend it. Would love to see you in Saratoga again this year (if the climbing schedule permits of course).

Dave

Posted by: David Schmidt on 4/29/2011 at 12:05 pm

HAPPY LATE BIRTHDAY!!! how fun! just can hardly wait to read the posts every day! i am so grateful that all is going well. hugs and prayers and best thoughts coming your way! lynn crow

Posted by: Lynn Crow on 4/26/2011 at 9:19 am

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Mt. Rainier: SUMMIT!

June 14, 2012

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Paul Maier

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410

SUMMIT! Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Paul Maier and Mike Haugen made it to the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams were able to spend a moment on top before heading downhill and are now en route to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's teams!

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In the words of Ryan Newton ” I’m so glad my dad got to climb all the way to the top of the mountain!”. Great job we can’t wait to hear all about it!!

Posted by: Kelly Newton on 6/14/2012 at 2:44 pm

Stephanie and Brian Ciske - did you summit today?

Posted by: Jean Ciske on 6/14/2012 at 12:39 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Reach Crater Rim at 7 am

August 25, 2022

Posted by: Alex Halliday, Tatum Whatford, Joey Manship, Josh Geiser, George Hedreen, Lily Emerson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Tatum Whatford radioed at 7 am that the first rope teams of the Four Day Climb August 22 - 25 were reaching the crater rim. The remaining teams were 10 minutes out. Tatum reported a beautiful morning on the mountain with no wind and a very good route. Once they spend a bit of time on the summit, Tatum along with RMI Guide Alex Halliday will lead their climbers back to Camp Muir where they will have a quick break to re-organize and pack for their remaining descent to Paradise. The teams will conclude their program this afternoon with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp.

Way to go teams!

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Peru Seminar: Alan Davis and Team check in - Ishinca Valley to Copa Summit

July 22, 2022

Posted by: Alan Davis, Emma Lyddan

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 20,301'

July 17, 2022 Ishinca Valley to Haraz

With a cold frosty morning and a hot cup of coffee we spent our last morning tearing down our Ishinca basecamp to head back to a night of civilization. Much to our chagrin, our bus broke down due to a leak in the air brakes. Thus, we were stranded for multiple hours on windy rough mountain roads. At least the sun was out and a rescue bus on the way. After another duffle shuffle we made it back to the hospitable Andino hotel in Huaraz with just enough daylight to dry out our tents and sleeping bags on our hotel decks. A well-deserved meal with hot showers were in order as our turnaround to head to our next objective is hours away.

July 18, 2022 Huaraz to Copa Base Camp

Another duffle shuffle and we were on our way to the Copa trail head just an hour north of Huaraz. The trail was in great condition, and we were in forests of eucalyptus until we reached about 13,000’ winding up and up until we reached our basecamp for Copa at 15,200’ over laguna Lejlacocha. The mountain was in the clouds for most of the day, but we were able to enjoy occasional glimpses of the glacier in between rain showers even a nice sunset. After a 4600’ gain in elevation, we were ready to eat a quick dinner and crawl into our warm sleeping bags to rest before our move to high camp tomorrow morning.

July 19, 2022 Attempt to Move

We were thwarted on our attempt to move from basecamp to our high camp at 17,200’ due to extremely high winds and cloud cap over the upper mountain this morning. Fortunately, we were able to rest in the sun at basecamp despite nearly losing our cook tent from the high winds ripping through camp. The winds finally subsided in the late afternoon and the Viscachas came out to play as well as the Andean geese. With the mountain looming in its majesty above our little basecamp, we came to a group consensus that we might as well try to go climbing tonight. As long as the weather stays calm, route conditions allow, and our bodies hold up, we’ll give it an honest go…

July 20, 2022 Copa Summit Push

It felt like a summer climb in the cascades, walking out of camp with only a few hours of sleep and anticipation, but we left our camp at 10pm after a cup of coffee to give it a go. 2 hours out of basecamp, past a glacial lake and through boulder fields of old, we wandered up to the bottom of an ice chute. Our entrance to the glacier. We quickly transitioned into boots and crampons and climbed the three pitches of rock and waterfall ice onto the steep snow slope that brought us to what would have been our high camp at 17,200.’ We paused here to add our hard-shells to arm ourselves against the windy night as we gulped down some gummies and chocolate covered espresso beans. As the night progressed so did the wind, sustained at 15-20mph with gusts of 30+ at our faces. Looking up between the occasional sandblasts from the sugary snow, the Milky Way and all its splendor still shone brightly, so we continued. We meandered through the steep snow slopes, crevasses, and seracs of the Copa glacier until finally the last pitch onto the summit plateau. 6,188m (20,301ft) and we arrived in a single push from basecamp. Something none of us thought we would pull off. 14,000’ to over 20,000’ and back in a day seemed out of reach, fortunately the weather was clear and just good enough that pacha mama (Goddess of the Andes) allowed us safe passage into this beautiful and sacred space. With tired bodies and full hearts, we celebrated one last mountain meal back in basecamp and slept hard to prepare for the walk back to civilization the next morning. Thankful for a safe and successful trip to this special Andean paradise.

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Mt. Baker: Easton Glacier Team 100% on Summit!

September 3, 2022

Posted by: Tatum Whatford, Roland Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 10,781'

Satuday, September 3, 2022 8:00 am PDT

Hey y'all,

On summit of Baker at 7:45.Moderate winds and smoky skies. 100% of team on top.

Tatum, Roland, and Team

Friday September 4, 2022 9:00 pm PDT

Hey y'all,

Yesterday we had perfect weather for our hike to camp without a cloud in the sky. We made camp at 6,100. Today we had a good school day with light winds and smoky skies.

Tatum, Roland, and Team

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Aconcagua: Wilhelm & Team Hike To Camp Confluencia

January 24, 2022

Posted by: James Bealer, Luke Wilhelm, David Price

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

We hit the dusty ol' trail today! A gentle breeze at our backs encouraged us towards Aconcagua. The hike to Camp Confluencia was filled with good conversation and lots of laughter. With every step, life is getting simpler and simpler. We are all in such awe of this place.

Till next time,

RMI Guide Luke Wilhelm

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I hope you’re having the best time, Richie!

Posted by: Kim Ehart on 1/25/2022 at 12:02 pm

Sounds like a great start for a great team. Safe climbing to you all!

Posted by: Noel Imfeld on 1/24/2022 at 8:43 pm

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