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Posted by: Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Guide News Guide Grant
Valdez, Alaska, is an incredible place to be in April. Long hours of daylight make for excellent opportunities to log massive amounts of vertical in the backcountry. When the skiing is good on Thompson Pass, there is no shortage of dramatic peaks and aesthetic lines.
Taking my AMGA Ski Mountaineering Guides Exam there this spring, I spent a majority of April in the area training with friends and fellow guides becoming familiar with the Alaskan terrain and snowpack.
The days leading up to the exam were filled with anxiety and endless “what-if’s” and “well-maybe’s.” Soon the other exam candidates and I found ourselves in the thick of eight days of late-into-the-night tour planning, strategizing, and pouring over weather forecasts, raw remote data, weather models, avalanche hazard forecasts, and various other slightly cloudy crystal balls. The general idea being to sort through all the data until you find a summary you like. Forecasting for an area as large as Alaska is quite difficult and many times during the week we were reminded that the forecasts were never quite wrong, but that the timing of the forecasts were usually off.
Conditions varied from thigh-deep powder in the east facing couloirs of the Iguana Backs zone, to some of the stiffest, carvable wind-board I’ve ever skied on the Berlin Wall and Odyssey.
The last few days of the exam we had great weather and flyable conditions. We employed the mechanical advantage of Valdez Heli-Skiing to get a ride into the Hoodoo glacier area for an overnight ski tour. We started with a descent of Acapulco Peak in the sunshine and finished with a long ski out of the Worthington Glacier in whiteout conditions.
Going through the process of being examined by your peers, learning from other exam candidates, and dealing with the stress of guiding new terrain and on-the-fly tour planning has been invaluable in helping me excel in all other facets of my guiding and personal endeavors.
Passing the exam and becoming one of only a handful of certified women in the U.S. is a huge honor and I am proud to represent RMI Expeditions.
- RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall
Posted by: Casey Grom, Hannah Smith
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 11,300'
Hello again everyone back home.
It was another enjoyable day here in the Khumbu Valley, the team woke up to bright beautifully clear skies, and mountains in every direction. We had a nice relaxing breakfast and then decided to visit a Monastery in Thamo. It’s home to female Buddhist Monks that are Tibetan refugees. They apparently escaped over the boarder which is only a few miles away and have made this home like the Sherpa community did some 500+ years ago. When we arrived the nuns were milling about and tending to their greenhouse that they use to grow their vegetables. We purchased a few prayer flags and prayer beads to help support them and then made our way back to Namche for lunch.
Then evening was spent exploring Namche and doing a little bargaining for a few gifts.
All is well and everyone is doing great.
Casey and Crew
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Paul Maier
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410
In the words of Ryan Newton ” I’m so glad my dad got to climb all the way to the top of the mountain!”. Great job we can’t wait to hear all about it!!
Posted by: Kelly Newton on 6/14/2012 at 2:44 pm
Stephanie and Brian Ciske - did you summit today?
Posted by: Jean Ciske on 6/14/2012 at 12:39 pm
Posted by: Andy Bond, Ellison Boord, George Hedreen, Bryan Mazaika, Keeley Rideout, Michael Murray
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Our Five Day Climb May 28 - 1 June, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Bryan Mazaika. Andy reported a beautiful climb this morning without any winds. The route is very direct and the teams training over the last few days set them up well for the climb.
The photo was taken by Andy on their ascent at around 13,300'. The teams will return to Camp Muir and repack then continue their descent to Paradise.
They will conclude their program this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Congratulations guys!! you did it! Looking forward to our climb on July 5th!! I hope the weather will allow us to reach the top as well.
Rich
Posted by: richard philippides on 6/12/2022 at 11:15 pm
It was one of great experience to hike Mt. Rainier. Thanks a lot to RMI for providing all the support.
Special thanks to all guides Bryan, Andy, Michael, Keely, George and Ellison, with you guys we will not have great experience. Thanks for providing all the training and taking care all of us (like family member). Looking forward to have more expeditions with you guys.
Also thanks to all expedition members, learned lot from you guys.
Posted by: Umesh Patel on 6/3/2022 at 2:23 pm
dear sweet girl…to me, making this “summit” of a decision is what goes on in life…the truth of how you feel will set you free…i think all those that surround you and support you have done so knowing this experience, summit or no summit is an amazing process to have…it teaches you to know yourself…and that, my dear is a beautiful, natural, amazing thing. You have filled the world with strength and beauty, honesty and love…and that is sa-weeet!
Posted by: nancy on 5/18/2011 at 9:41 am
I so sorry to hear Sara had to make the tough decision to come home slightly early. I was climbing this year aged 19 and came home after I became seriously ill, so I’ve been closely following Sara’s progress and really routing for her! I know it’ll prove to be the right choice, and inevitably you’ve both achieved your main aim- to get back home safe. It takes a stonger person to accept that going for the summit isn’t the right option than it takes to reach the summit! You were clearly a strong climber with a level head and should be so proud of what you achieved. All the best, Beckyx
Posted by: Becky Bellworthy on 5/18/2011 at 8:17 am
Posted by: Tatum Whatford, Roland Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
Satuday, September 3, 2022 8:00 am PDT
Hey y'all,
On summit of Baker at 7:45.Moderate winds and smoky skies. 100% of team on top.
Tatum, Roland, and Team
Friday September 4, 2022 9:00 pm PDT
Hey y'all,
Yesterday we had perfect weather for our hike to camp without a cloud in the sky. We made camp at 6,100. Today we had a good school day with light winds and smoky skies.
Tatum, Roland, and Team
Posted by: Matias Francis, Seth Burns, Tatum Whatford, Joey Manship, Nicole De Petris, George Hedreen
Categories:
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guides Matias Franics and Seth Burns led their Four Day Climb August 16 - 19 teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reported good conditions with a bit of increased wind and some light precipitation on their descent. Once back at Camp Muir they will have a short break before continuing the final 4,500' down to Paradise to complete their climb. They will conclude their program at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon with a celebration ceremony.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Posted by: JM Gorum, Joe Hoch, Luke Wilhelm, Alex Halliday, Tatum Whatford, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb July 2 - 5, 2021 reached the crater rim of Mt. Rainier at 5:30 am today with blue skies above and good route conditions under foot. The teams, led by RMI Guides JM Gorum and Joe Hoch, enjoyed some time in the crater and spent time taking in the views. The route remains in good condition with a nice boot pack trail. Back at Camp Muir the teams will get a short break to repack gear and re-hydrate before descending the final 4,500' to Paradise.
Congratulations to the Four Day Climb team!
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Mark Tucker, Seth Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Elevation: 29,035
On The Map
Congratulations, felicidades! 15 th summit!!! Great. Regards from Costa Rica
Posted by: Silke on 5/23/2013 at 7:51 pm
Huge Congratulations! You guys were patient, waited until the right time, even when all others were making their summit bids, and you always seem to be successful. Great climbing. Bill Bussey
Posted by: Bill Bussey on 5/23/2013 at 7:20 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Leif Bergstrom, Josh Geiser, Nicole De Petris, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guides Mike Walter & Abby Westling led the Four Day Climb August 26 - 29 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning with all climbers in both groups. Mike reported a beautiful day on the mountain as the teams were approaching the crater rim around 7:10 am. Climbers will spend time in the summit crater before starting their descent, dropping 4,500' back to Camp Muir. After a quick stop they will continue the remaining 4,500' to Paradise. Once back at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon the program will conclude with a small celebration for the teams.
Nice work today everyone!
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Posted by: brahim ait on 9/22/2017 at 11:56 am
Congrats to you Solveig on completing the prestegious AMGA Ski Guide Certification and adding another line on your already impressive reseme. Reading about your latest adventure brought back fond memories of my climb with you, Josh and Lance on Rainier last August 22-25. Although I did not summit, I really enjoyed the adventure and the fellowship of our Climbing Team. I hope to one day sign up for an Everest Basecamp Trec . . . Maybe your Husband would be the Guide! Be safe, enjoy the adventure and keep living the dream. Doug Kennedy - The Songee Guy - a thin red cord binds us together as a Climbing Team !!!
Posted by: Doug Kennedy on 1/23/2014 at 4:20 am
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