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Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leon Davis, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
We made it to our base camp at Plaza Argentina! We got an early start this morning in order to take advantage of the muleteers offer to ferry us across the Vacas River. For some, it was their first time riding a mule, and it was a much more pleasant start to the morning than wading the four frosty channels would have been.
It's a pleasant walk up the canyon of the Relinchos River, and before we knew it, we were walking into Base Camp to be greeted with juice and fresh melon from our excellent outfitter, Grajales. They cooked a wonderful dinner for us tonight and will handle our meals for our stay at Base Camp.
On tap for tomorrow is a well deserved rest day. We'll use the time to sort gear for the carry to Camp 1 the following day. Before all that though: a big breakfast of breakfast burritos.
Hasta luego.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the RMI Aconcagua team
On The Map
Posted by: JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
Today our team enjoyed a city tour of Moscow with our Guide Nina. She was a wealth of knowledge and we all learned a great deal. We visited of course Red Square, St. Basil's Cathedral and fortunately the subway of Moscow. At first I was a little skeptical. Mainly because I was expecting something like NYC and some dude in a snakeskin jacket and a funny hat saying, "that ain't a knife...this is a knife". However a nice jaunt underground displayed some spectacular artwork fit for a King and Queen. What a way to start a Mt. Elbrus adventure!
Thanks Nina!!
RMI Guide J.J. Justman
Hello everybody, this is Jake standing on top of El Pico de Orizaba, in Mexico, third highest point on the North American continent.
We did a great job today. Everybody climbed super well. It’s breezy, a little cold, but we’ve got stellar views in every direction had an amazing moon lit climb, barely needed a headlamp. It was completely ideal.
So, everybody did great and we’ll be checking in, probably late this evening with an update after we head down safely. Thanks for all the support back home and we’ll be talking to you guys soon.
Alright, take care.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in from the summit of Pico de Orizaba
We slept well in the Barrels last night, the paneled walls providing a surprising amount of insulation from the cold mountain night. The morning again dawned clear and after breakfast we headed out on our final acclimatization hike. The fact that our bodies are already growing stronger at this altitude was evidenced by our pace this morning as we made it to our high point of yesterday a bit faster and with far less effort.
We continued upwards, donning our crampons and picking our way across the rushing rivulets of surface water beginning to run down the glacier as temperatures warmed. By midday we reached our goal, an outcropping of rock at 15,300' or so. Above us stood the east summit of Elbrus towering another 3,000' higher. Below us stretched the massive rolling glaciers of the mountain, enveloping all sides of the mountain like an apron. It was a beautiful view and we were pleased to be up there.
Retracing our steps, we descended back to the Barrels in time for an afternoon lunch before relaxing for the rest of the day. The weather once again turned unsettled in the afternoon, occasionally spitting rain and hail on us. A fairly consistent trend has emerged while we have been here - clear skies in the morning followed by light afternoon precipitation. It appears as though it will continue for the rest of the week, boding well for our planned summit bid the day after tomorrow - keep your fingers crossed!
A light hike and some rest is planned for tomorrow.
We accomplished our move up from basecamp in fine style today. Within the first thirty minutes on the track, we burst out of a low cloud layer into brilliant sunshine and the bluest of skies. All seemed to be feeling strong and as our loads were lighter than on yesterday's carry, we cranked up the pace a notch. We cruised in to camp in just over 4 hrs. Namgya Sherpa led a rope with Tim Amos and Leif Whittaker. I tied in with John Kelly, Brent Huntsman and Sashko Kedev. I enjoyed chatting with Namgya at our rest breaks. He has climbed Everest 9 times along with ascents of Cho Oyu, Dhalagiri and Shishipangma. When I thought about those numbers a bit, I realized something peculiar about the approximately 25 climbers that make up Vinson's current population. I've got eleven, Willie Benegas and Vern Tejas have about nine Everest summits each, together with a healthy handful by guides Scott Wollums, Michael Horst and David Hamilton... Throw in a few more for the clients on our teams who have been up (like Sashko on our team) and the grand total must be up near sixty. But none of that will be very comforting if we can't manage to climb Vinson in the coming days. Luckily for us, Namgya has already been up Vinson three times this season and knows the way. He is from the eastern part of Nepal, near Kangchenjunga, but these days lives part of each year in Kathmandu, part in Cambridge, England and part in Antarctica.
The other teams on the mountain have spread out a bit, with some now at high camp, some having carried high and with ourselves bringing up the rear. Fine with us, that way. Today was a classic antarctic climbing day. The air temperature probably didn't pass 5 degrees F, but with intense sun reflected off extremely clean white snows, the apparent temperature was downright Carribean. We were treated to splendid views of the big and steep mountains to the north which are seldom climbed. Shinn, Epperly and Gardiner are massive and formidable and don't exactly beckon to those of moderate skill (we couldn't see Tyree today, but it is even more massive and more formidable and does even less beckoning).
We enjoyed a fine dinner in our new home and turned in, tying everything down in case of storm... such a thing is difficult to imagine just now as there isn't a hint of wind and the midnight sun continues to blaze away in the summer sky. It will get intensely cold in a few hours when the sun ducks behind Vinson... But as I say, who wants to think about that now?
Pampa de Lenas is at an altitude of 2,800 meters. And that is where we are sitting right now. It's our first day trekking and we had a beautiful day walking into camp.
The scenery towers above you as the condors soar high above. Pretty poetic huh? Okay, I'll stop. The team had a fun day stretching our legs. We'd like to lie and tell you it was arduous but after a picnic lunch of sandwiches, chips, fresh fruit, cheese, olives and cookies we all wobbled into camp.
There is no setting up tents here! Are you kidding! You will never see stars like these in your life. So we are all sleeping under the stars tonight. I'm just trying to remember who sang the song, "Southern Cross?" So help me out RMI fans!!
We are relaxing in camp and excited for dinner, which is being cooked over an open fire. Living don't get no better than this!!
RMI Guides JJ Justman and Leah Fisher
On The Map
Crosby, Stills and Nash wrote “Southern Cross”....great tune!
Posted by: Randy Christofferson on 12/18/2013 at 11:10 am
Wow!!! What an awesome experience sleeping! Sounds like you’ve had a great day of trekking. Love reading the updates. Can’t wait to hear what tomorrow brings. Love ya Josh
Posted by: Jessica on 12/17/2013 at 4:43 pm
Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
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Sunday, May 26, 2013
Bagels fried in butter, slathered in cream cheese and accompanied with smoked salmon and bacon. It was the perfect fuel to start us out on the perfect day. Clear, calm skies prevailed over the Alaska Range once again and shortly after 9:30 we were hoofing it down to pick up our cache at 9500'. Everyone cruised up and down, allowing us a quasi rest day upon our return to camp around 1:00.
A little afternoon training with our crampons and ice axes will serve us well as we start climbing some steeper terrain tomorrow. Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill, the Polo Field and Windy Corner will be some of the areas we'll climb through on our way to caching a bunch of food and supplies at 13,500'. We're looking forward to an exciting and challenging day.
As we were preparing to settle in for our dinner of burritos we got a pleasant surprise when the first RMI trip arrived in camp after summiting on a perfect day yesterday. It is exciting to see our friends, and certainly gets us stoked for the climbing to come. We're hoping for some similar conditions when it comes our turn to go for the summit. But for now, we'll just concentrate on the matter at hand. Getting our cache to 13,500'.
We'll be getting up fairly early in order to get back to camp with time to relax and prepare for the next day.
Until then ...
RMI Guides Brent, Logan, Leah
On The Map
I think George is jealous about your trip. Next time take him too…
Posted by: susan birnbaum on 5/28/2013 at 3:17 pm
Razzle-dazzle & Ray Ray,
What an amazing experience! I remember you telling me about the fried bagels as we sat in the sun trying to imagine what your climb would be like. Can’t believe it’s really happening. Be in every moment, absorb it all: the sound of the snow, your heightened sense of awareness, the way you can read the terrain… It’s you and the mountain.
Miss you, love you,
-E
Posted by: Eva on 5/27/2013 at 10:25 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Elevation: 17,575'
We enjoyed another sunny day at Base Camp and thus a few more rounds of horseshoes. Our team is getting rested and well fed - two important "to do" items prior to starting our big push for the summit of Mt. Everest. The team has been finalizing their equipment, deciding on the food items they will take, adjusting their boots, etc. etc. There are more teams on the upper mountain getting in position for their summit attempt. We are expecting some teams will make the summit tonight. It is always hard to be an observer but we are banking with the old saying "good things come to those who wait".
I guess that goes for you too, since you will have to wait for our next dispatch. ..
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Looking forward to hearing about your summit. Blessings your way for a safe ascent.
ABQ Uptown #985 NM/AZ/CO
Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 5/16/2013 at 7:15 am
Hey Dan we are watching you. Enjoy your stay in NEPAL.
Bib and Chevy
Posted by: Kevin Campbell on 5/15/2013 at 7:10 pm
RMI Guide Billy Nugent and Team are currently standing on the summit of Mt. Shuksan. They reported beautiful weather with hardly a cloud in the sky. Billy said, "It doesn’t get much better than this." The team is enjoying the view and will head back to their high camp shortly.
Congratulations Billy & Team!
Posted by: Linden Mallory
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
We enjoyed a leisurely day in St. Petersburg on our last day in Russia. From our hotel we walked the several hundred yards to St. Isaac's Cathedral, climbing the 211 steps to the Colonnade that offers sweeping views of the city below. Built in the early 1700s, Peter the Great designed St. Petersburg after European cities and the city is often referred to as the "Venice of the North". Dozens of canals wind through the city, connecting to the Neva River running through the heart of St. Petersburg. From the Colonnade we could see over the rooftops of the city's early fortress, it's palaces and government buildings, and its beautifully restored churches.
Descending from the Colonnade we made our way to the Church of our Savior on Spilled Blood, an ornately decorated Church built over the stones where Tsar Alexander II was stabbed. Although built on a gloomy premise, the church's interior is incredible, with intricate, colorful mosaics covering the multistory interior. Lastly, we visited the Hermitage Museum, Russia's largest museum and home to over 4 million pieces of art. While the artwork matches any museum in the world, the building alone, built by Catherine the Great, is worth the visit in itself. Stretching out along the banks of the Neva, each room and hall is decorated in it's unique style.
After dinner (an excellent seafood restaurant) we climbed on board a boat and toured St. Petersburg's canals, winding through the buildings, under the roads and bridges, and along the Neva. Many of us leave early in the morning for flights home. It's been a great trip through Russia to Europe's highest peak, and we are looking forward to sharing the stories and photos with all of you at home.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
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That’s an awesome job ... safe travels home!
Posted by: Jon McHenry on 2/20/2011 at 9:03 am
Congratulations on a brilliant climb! Now y’all get right down from there immediately…
Posted by: Christina Doren on 2/19/2011 at 1:27 pm
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