Most Popular Entries
Today we left the Alzimoni hut, moving to our high camp on Ixta. The crew did very well and we made in good style to our new home at 14,700 feet. After refueling on hot drinks, soup and dinner we turned in to catch some zzzz`s before our alpine start tomorrow. Wish us luck and good weather, we'll check in manana.
Posted by: Mike King, Dominic Cifelli, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 18,000'
Today we moved camp to 18,000'. The clear mornings and snowstorms in the afternoon trend continues. We got a heat wave of calm air and lots of sun on new snow reflecting off the hillsides. Once through the Col we got some respite but it was not to last as the subtle breeze died as we built camp and the frying of skin began again. We are in tents with snow falling. Thanks for following along.
The skies above Talkeetna were broken this morning with a light gray patchwork of clouds hanging low in the sky. We packed up our bags from the hotel and walked over to the Roadhouse Café for another hearty breakfast, keeping an eye on the skies through the window. By the time we finished the clouds were breaking apart so we hurried over to the airstrip to see what the pilots thought of the flying weather. Sure enough they gave us the thumbs up and we went into hyperdrive, packing the last few items and loading our bags into the planes.
By 10:30am we were airborne, the team split between two turbo prop planes outfitted with skis. As soon as we climbed above the last remanants of that low hanging cloud layer the Alaska Range reared into view, gradually filling the windshield of the plane with a white mass as we approached. Before long we left the green forest below and crossed above the moraines and glaciers of the Southern Alaska Range. Making a big turn around the southwest side of Mt. Hunter - the third highest peak in the Alaska Range - and entered above the Kahiltna Glacier. Another giant sweeping turn brought us into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna and Chris, our pilot, gently touched the plane down onto the glacier.
Stepping out of the plane is always an overwhelming experience as the sheer scale of the surrounding landscape is brought into perspective. Soon the planes took off again, leaving us standing at Base Camp with a massive pile of gear and food sitting beside us. We quickly set to work, establishing camp and unpacking and resorting our gear from the flights. The rest of the afternoon slipped by as we reviewed our glacial travel skills, set up crevasse rescue systems, and played with various snow anchors.
In the evening Kel pulled together some phenomenal burritos and then we settled in for some rest. We are waking up again in a few hours to move to Camp 1, taking advantage of the coldest part of the night when the snow is frozen and supportive to walk across the lower stretches of the Kahiltna Glacier which is riddled with crevasses this time of year. We should arrive in Camp by mid morning tomorrow.
The team is doing well, excited to be here, and eager to begin the climb. We will check in tomorrow from Camp 1.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Welcome to the start of the RMI Aconcagua Expedition!
Everybody in the group is in Mendoza and we are very excited. Our plan is to have dinner and try the great Argentinian beef! Tomorrow morning we will get the climbing permits and do some shopping for lunch food and other last minute items. After that we will drive three hours through the Andes Mountains and arrive at Los Penitentes (8200-8500 feet) to spend our first night at altitude and start with the acclimatization.
We will be checking in tomorrow.
-RMI Guide Gabriel Barral and the RMI Aconcagua Expedition
Posted by: Daniel May, Charlie Harrison, Calvin Jiricko
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
The Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier Team led by RMI Guide Dan May reached the summit at 9:30 am. The entire team stood on top! The team is back at camp where they will celebrate, re-fuel, and have a full night sleep before descending to the trailhead tomorrow.
Congratulations Team!
Posted by: Brent Okita, Mike King, Andrew Kiefer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Brent Okita reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at about 6:40am today. Brent reported a beautiful morning with clear skies and calm winds of 10 – 15 mph. The team is doing well and have started their descent to Camp Muir.
Tyler Jones and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz Team also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier later in the morning. The team had a great climb and have started their descent back to their high camp on the Wilson Glacier.
Congratulations Teams!
Well done Charlie.
You won’t soon forget this experience.
And congratulations to the rest of the team and to the RMI guides who did their usual outstanding job keeping everyone safe while pushing them to find hidden reserves they never knew existed.
Very well done indeed.
Dad
Posted by: Art Muir on 7/15/2014 at 8:52 pm
Well done team! Looks absolutely amazing.
Posted by: Clara Arnold on 7/10/2014 at 6:28 am
Hello again from Pheriche.
Today was another well-deserved rest day for the team. After breakfast we contemplated going on a hike but the chilly temperatures and wind outside kept us inside pouring more coffee and relaxing in the nice warm sunroom. Everyone did a little exploring of this small village of about a dozen tea houses, some venturing further than others. At 3:00 pm we walked next door to the HRA (Himalayan Rescue Association) and sat in on a short, but informative, talk about altitude and travel issues. The HRA has small seasonal medical facility based here to treat climbers, trekkers, porters, and Sherpa that need help. It was established by the famous American doctor Peter Hacket in 1974.
Our evening was spent watching the local traffic of porters and yaks pass by loaded with gear for this climbing season. Everyone is still in good spirits and looking forward to tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
Hey Casey - Just wanted to say “Hi”. Hope you are doing well.
-Larry Seaton
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 3/26/2014 at 12:21 am
It was a beautiful day in Cheget today and we made the most of it. We started the day with a nice breakfast of porridge, eggs and fresh juice, then headed out to stretch our legs a bit. Being that this is a ski town in the winter, we took advantage of the chairlifts and rode them up to about 10,000ft to start our hike. The team hiked for a little over an hour to reach a sub-summit of Cheget Peak. The team did great on our first acclimatization hike and spent about 20 minutes on top to enjoy the view (our first of Mt. Elbrus). Again the team did great descending down the mountain side all the way back to town where we stopped in at a local cafe for lunch. Shortly after lunch we headed over to the gear shop for a few last minute items and have settled in back in our cosy hotel.
Things look good on the mountain and we're even heard that climbing conditions are great too. Two of RMI's great guides Mark Tucker and Jeff Justman aka JJ are also in town after two successful climbs. It was a pleasure to see them and hear about their climbs too.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
Posted by: Lindsay Mann, Josh Maggard, Ben Liken, Katrina Bloemsma, JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by JJ Justman and Lindsay Mann reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The teams reported great climbing conditions with winds of about 5 - 15 mph as they climbed above the clouds. The teams will spend some time on the summit before starting their descent back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to Today's Teams!
Congratulations Cory, Hope you enjoyed every minute.
We Love You, Mom and Dad
Posted by: Robert and Lori on 6/14/2014 at 9:11 am
Way to go Rob! Can’t wait to see the pictures.
Posted by: Bob Haley on 6/14/2014 at 8:23 am
Today is a tough one to put into words. Amazingly bitter sweet is the only honest way I can aptly describe the team's fruit basket of emotions after the outcome of today's Antisana summit attempt.
When the alarm again went off at 10:30 pm, this time in a grassy pasture three miles removed from the base of the mountain, I couldn't help but cringe. It was only when I flopped out of the tent that my spirits lifted. It was perfect out! A full moon illuminated Ecuador's most elusive glaciated summit and from what we saw the day before, things looked promising. To lay it out, our climbing team was comprised of four team members and three guides. Two of our team members went back to the states early due to illness and three more decided to forego the climb to focus more on the skills side of this program. Don't forget, we have the highest mountain yet to come.
We ate a small breakfast and did our best to make sure those still sleeping were adequately bothered by the climbers heading off with no sleep. A 30-minute jeep ride brought us to the start of the moraine and 60 minutes later we were putting crampons on to begin heading up the glacier. I had to put moon screen on so not to burn my cheeks, it was that bright.
Six hours of the most beautiful, engaging and aesthetic mountain climbing I've ever done in Ecuador landed us on a nice flat spot just as the sun was rising. The moon was still full and the alpenglow was incredible. The bitter was about to balance the sweet. Five-hundred feet below what we thought was an inevitable successful summit was a crevasse running the entire width of the glacier. Farit asked if we could jump across and I told him we didn't practice that skill yet. He shrugged and said "ok". Our sweet hopes for a proud summit were instantly dashed. So goes the unpredictable nature of mountain climbing.
After returning to camp where the rest of the team was practicing skills, a rapid pack up ensued and it was into the magic bus and off to a beautiful hacienda resting almost on the foothills of Cotopaxi itself. Hot showers, cervesas and clean beds were a welcomed reward to get us psyched for what's to come. Our third and final mountain awaits tomorrow. No matter the outcome, knowing the trip is coming to a close will also be bitter sweet. Shaun and Nichole, we miss you.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Dang!
Best of luck on your next attempt. You guys can do it! Go team Ecuador.
Posted by: Greg Hunt on 1/17/2014 at 10:07 am
Keep up the good work and slather on that sunscreen. We all miss you and we love you.
Posted by: Emily on 1/8/2023 at 12:01 pm
Sounds like you’re making great progress! We’re so pleased for you!
The whole gang was here this am to walk the trails, not enough fresh snow to need snowshoes but still a good base.
All the dogs loved the trek thru the woods trails! Wander misses you, Alison, she can’t stick close enough to us, as I write she’s on my lap and in my face!
We’ve got sunshine for the first time in 10 days, hallelujah!
Keep up the great work, thanks for your updates! Love Momma and Dad XOXOXO
Posted by: Momma and Dad on 1/8/2023 at 11:33 am
View All Comments