Today was another acclimatization day here at about 12,252 feet. Production team went out predawn to catch the early morning prayers at Tengboche and shoot in early morning light. Unfortunately the low clouds and fog didn't cooperate with our lighting wishes. Nonetheless we filmed a great dispatch in which we introduce our photographer Jake Norton.
Well up until yesterday morning the debate was still on: Cotopaxi or the Beach? Despite the obvious draw of bagging climbing for surfing, we decided that the steep moody glaciated peak out our dining room window was a worthy endeavor, so we packed up and headed for the Refugio José Ribas. It was a brief restfull afternoon and dinner (of course with Sopa and Ahi, our two favorite parts of every meal here) before we were off to bed, feeling oddly comfortable at 16,000 feet by now. We awoke around 1 am to find our legendary streak of good weather had not been broken. Launching in calm winds under the stars with only clouds to our north, we climbed the first thousand feet on red volcanic rock before donning spikes and venturing into the glacier with a few inches of consolidated fresh snow to provide traction. The entire crew felt strong, even stronger than on Cayambe after so much time at altitude, and before we knew it we were all on top of Cotopaxi with a clear view and a steaming crater. The route and views were all time, perfect to wrap up our time in a great country. By the time we arrived back at the hut there was another first for the crew of firsts: a hut to summit to hut record was in the bag, not far over 6 hours I believe.
We are now in Quito celebrating our 400% success this trip (100% success on 4 peaks), and will soon depart for home. What a great group we have had! Fun, positive, strong, interesting, and encouraging are all words that come to mind. We’ll call this trip a great one in the books and hope to climb with all these cats again!
Thanks also to our amazing local guides, Jaime, David, Nacho, and Christian. Also a big thanks to our driver - the Ecuadorian GPS - Victor.
RMI Guides Chris Ebeling and Adam Knoff
Congratulations to the entire team and to you! What an amazing experience with amazing people! Thank you so much for leading them to the top of these massive peaks with such style and expertise!
There are truly no better people to climb with in the guides of RMI!
Monday, July 7, 2014 - 12:05 PM PT
Well, the team is currently experiencing deja vu here at 11,200' camp on Mt. McKinley. Before arriving here in deja vu land, the team did an AWESOME job packing up high camp and descending to 14,200' camp. At 14,200' we were met by Dave Hahn and his team who treated us to lots of hot water and quesadillas. Delicious and just what we needed!
Descending to 11 camp required all of our attention as we re-acquainted ourselves with sleds, experienced some post-holing, and walked (as best we could) through less than exciting weather. Now to the deja vu part of the story...a snow storm at 11,200'. We thought the weather gods had released all of the snow on us already but we were wrong. We are doing a weather dance right now so we can continue our descent and make our dreams of warm showers, cold beers, and loved ones a reality. Until then, we will keep you posted.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Hello everyone in the lowlands! We thin-air breathers are now back in base camp after a terrific day. The team carried gear up to Camp 1. Aconcagua is a big undertaking which requires a lot of food, fuel and gear.
We established Camp 1 at 16,200 feet. The team is honestly doing so well! We moved as one unit up and down. I like this because it keeps people motivated and we can pass the time with chit chat.
Once we arrived at Camp 1 we emptied our packs and then Leah and I filled a couple of duffel bags full of food and gear. Now back at base camp we are surviving the heat and several climbers are in a championship round of Yahtzee.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
Awesome work team!!! Sounds and looks like ya had an adventurous and exciting day. Glad to hear everyone is doing well. Best of luck trekking back to Camp 1 tomorrow. Josh - I am so very proud of you. Mom and I spent the day with lily in St. Louis!!! We talked about you the entire trip. We miss you bunches!!! Keep up the great progress.
Love you - Jess
Well we are moving right along. Team is doing well after a couple of trams and a chair lift. Here we are at 12000', the Garabashi luxury dorm-type living. We are sticking with the normal program that has worked so well in the past. We did a nice three-hour hike, acclimatization is going well. Was under nice weather. We are just resting, hydrating, and nesting in our lovely barrel. We're waiting our turn in the dining area. There's a few other groups that are sharing our support crew up here and we're all getting along just fine. Although there is just one guy up here. I think he goes by JJ. You know there always has to be one of those in the bunch. So psyched the team is doing well. Should be another good night to catch up a little more on that jet lag.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
RMI Guide Mark Tucker calls in from the Garabashi Hut.
The Four Day Summit Climb June 26 - 29th led by Leon Davis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reported clear skies and 25 mph winds on the summit.
Gabriel Barral and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons also made the summit of Mt. Rainier today. They will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Hi, this is Linden calling in with a dispatch from Chukung.
What a day!
We woke this morning about 2 a.m. The winds that were bothering us yesterday afternoon had died down to just a whisper. We had a quick climbers breakfast and headed off up the mountain. We climbed and watched the moon rise over Makalu followed shortly by the sun. Sunrise caught us right at the base of the glacier. We kept climbing up the glacier to the base of the headwall. The team made great work ascending the 800 or so vertical feet of the fixed line, despite some adverse conditions. Everyone handled it well.
About nine in the morning were standing on the top of Island Peak. The entire team made the summit. We had the entire summit to ourselves, even though it's only about the size of a ping-pong table. After a few celebratory photos we headed back down the fixed line, to the glacier and back to High Camp. We packed up High Camp and walked all the way to Chukung. We arrived just before the last rays of sunlight disappeared. We dropped into our tea house tired, hungry but very happy.
We plan to walk to Namche tomorrow and arrive in Lukla the following day.
Shira Camp!
We made it up to 12,400 ft and reached our westernmost camp. Actually, we climbed even a little higher before dropping down to finish the day. We left the big trees behind and ascended steeply through Giant Heather, eventually passing our first senecios and lobelias. We were above a sea of clouds—and sometimes below an upper deck of clouds as well. Conditions were pleasant: not too hot, not too cold, and not too windy.
Today, we got our hands on the rock in a few places. It was great to spice things up with the short rock steps we needed to traverse and scale. But ultimately, the best part of the day was finishing the climb and turning the corner at the edge of the Shira Plateau.
We had an easy afternoon in our new camp—eating, drinking, resting, and watching the sun set.
Today we woke to sound of rain on our tents and hoped it would fade before hitting the trail. Sadly it didn’t, and we left camp clad in waterproof clothing. We hiked for a few hours before we got our break in the weather.
We hit the trail once again around 8:30am and hiked for an hour before taking our usual 15-minute break, then back on the trail for another hour and so on. All total today we hiked for just over 6 hours before reaching camp which is set up and ready for us.
Along the way we passed around the famous Lava Tower reaching just over 15,000ft setting new altitude records for most of the team. Everyone had a great attitude and managed staying dry thankfully.
Today was a logistics day with a hike to continue our acclimatization. We left La Malinche around 8 am and had a delicious breakfast enroute to the town of Amecameca where we bought our water and remaining supplies for the Ixta climb. From there we drove up a winding road to Paso de Cortes which lies between the 2 volcanoes Popo and Ixta that dominate this area of Mexico. With rain lightly bouncing off our jackets, we walked the 4.5 miles from the park entrance to the hut located at 13,000’. We are packing and enjoying the new dusting of snow on the surrounding peaks. Dinner and a good night's sleep will have us prepared to head up to high camp tomorrow morning.
Congratulations to the entire team and to you! What an amazing experience with amazing people! Thank you so much for leading them to the top of these massive peaks with such style and expertise!
There are truly no better people to climb with in the guides of RMI!
Posted by: Susan Matthews on 1/31/2019 at 2:07 pm
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