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My last experience on Volcan Lanin was two years ago, and it was severely windy. Since then I've yet to talk to anyone who has had a calm experience on this mountain.
Two days ago as our team was climbing a steep gully, with 7,000' of vertical relief above us, that Lanin wind taunted us. The weather forecast called for things to calm down in the late afternoon, but weather forecasts in southern Chile should be read with a degree of skepticism - there's simply a lack data points in these parts to expect much accuracy.
At 3:30 in the afternoon I thought to myself, we'll give it 45 more minutes. The wind needs to mellow out significantly. And we need to find a safe place to camp. Basically some alignment of the stars, or we're going to have to retreat to the monkey puzzle forest...
At 4:15 I scampered up the steep edge of the gully while our group took a break under a rock outcrop. On a protruding ridge I stumbled upon a perfect, safe, snowy ledge carved out by that Lanin wind. And then I thought wait a minute - where's the wind? Gone.
We had an amazing evening camped in our fortified perch, looking out on dramatic cloud layers. Darkness turned to what felt like daytime, with a very full moon illuminating our tent walls.
The next morning we started climbing - kicking steps in the frozen snow with crampons on our boots.
Our
Chile Volcanoes trip landed in the middle of a very unsettled weather pattern here in Araucania. 1,500' above our camp on Lanin, the snow started to fall, the wind started to blow, the clouds came in, and my attention started to turn from my surroundings to my GPS.
Time to go down. Good thing skiing is so much fun in and of itself. We were smiling big by the time we rolled into camp, and smiling bigger by the time we hit the snow line on the lower flanks of the mountain. 3000' or so of perfectly smooth corn...
Thanks Chile for 8 awesome days of skiing, and thanks Lonquimay and Sollipulli for allowing us to visit your summits. Llaima and Lanin...we'll be back next year. And thanks to our awesome Chile 2015 crew: JP, Stephen, and Wendy. And a special thanks to our amazing local outfitter and guide, Sergio Perez.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
We had a nice relaxed departure from Karanga camp this morning. After just a few short hours on the trail we found our selves at our high camp on
Mt. Kilimanjaro, Barafu Camp. We are moving well today and the same steady tight team pulled into camp. We already emptied our packs and adjusted the load to ready for our summit attempt tonight.
We have our food packed for the summit and enjoyed a hot lunch at camp. We are relaxing this afternoon and taking a rest before an early dinner. After dinner we will try to get a few hours of sleep before our midnight wake up call and game on! The weather continues to stay nice, just a few low clouds now and again but no complaints here. The local support staff has yet to miss a beat and we really appreciate the help. Go team Go. Will try and call you from the top.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
Saturday, June 7th 10:36 PM PT
Greetings from
our home at 7,800' at the base of Ski Hill.
Today we carried big loads up to 9,600' camp and made a cache. This allowed us to get in some mileage and take a day off the sleds. It also gives us a lighter move day tomorrow and every little bit helps! Just before dinner it started to snow and we retreated to tents to rest up for the upcoming day. Cross your fingers for clearing skies and we'll make the most of them.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides
Seth Waterfall and
Pablo Puruncajas reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams are descending to Camp Muir to rest and refuel before making their way to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford later today.
Seth here, checking in from the Hotel Colonial in
Puebla. The group has just returned from dinner and everyone is headed to their rooms for a little shut eye.
The climb went well today and the weather was fantastic. We awoke just after one AM and hit the trail before three. We ascended 'The Knees' route on Ixta which involves several ups and downs along the way to the summit. We started with some steep rock then moved into some ridge climbing and crossed two glaciers to reach the summit. It was a spectacular day of climbing.
Everyone is looking forward to the rest day in Puebla tomorrow.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Again it was bitterly cold in the hours before the sun hit low camp, but then the rest of the day was calm sunny and perfect. We took full advantage by resting the day away. We ate, we drank, we napped and we repeated ourselves. The teams that went for the top (some with success, some without) came by on their descent and we traded notes and wished each other well. It is certainly our hope that tomorrow we will go for
high camp feeling stronger and more ready as a result of today's rest. But as usual, we need continued good luck in the weather department.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Mike Walter radioed in on the
Four Day Summit Climb August 20 - 23, 2013, at 7:30 his team was 10 minutes from the crater rim. Mike reported broken clouds below at 6,000’. The team was in the cloud cap with light winds and poor visibility. The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise led by Billy Nugent also reached the summit this morning. Both teams began their descent around 8:40 a.m. PT. The teams will return to Camp Muir to repack before continuing their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing everyone this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today's climbing teams!
The team, as well as our luggage, is here at the Dik Dik Hotel. We caught up on some jet lag with one member saying, "Best sleep ever." After a nice breakfast, we had an orientation meeting then went straight into equipment checks. So important to take the time to start a climb with what you need for any
mountain. The team came well prepared as very little was missing.
Once the team was organized for the climb, we had time to check out the local sights. Some of the team made a trip to
Arusha, a nearby city, while others hiked around our neighborhood visiting shops, schools and an orphanage. We are all doing well and looking forward to the start of the climb tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
It was a beautiful day in Cheget today and we made the most of it. We started the day with a nice breakfast of porridge, eggs and fresh juice, then headed out to stretch our legs a bit. Being that this is a ski town in the winter, we took advantage of the chairlifts and rode them up to about 10,000ft to start our hike. The team hiked for a little over an hour to reach a sub-summit of
Cheget Peak. The team did great on our first acclimatization hike and spent about 20 minutes on top to enjoy the view (our first of Mt. Elbrus). Again the team did great descending down the mountain side all the way back to town where we stopped in at a local cafe for lunch. Shortly after lunch we headed over to the gear shop for a few last minute items and have settled in back in our cosy hotel.
Things look good on the mountain and we're even heard that climbing conditions are great too. Two of RMI's great guides Mark Tucker and Jeff Justman aka JJ are also in town after two successful climbs. It was a pleasure to see them and hear about their climbs too.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
RMI Dave Hahn radioed from the Summit of Mt. Rainier at 9:45 am PT today! Recent storms have deposited about two feet of new snow on the mountian. The team climbed strong to break trail, and the view from the top was the big pay-off!
The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to Today's Team!
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Hi Mark!
We missed your call—sorry. And it didn’t work when we tried to call you back. This experience sounds wonderful. We’re happy for you and we love you.
Mother & Daddy
Posted by: Maury & Eviemail Address * on 8/11/2014 at 4:20 pm
We are looking forward to seeing your celebration pics from the summit! Stay safe and enjoy!
Posted by: Kathy and Andy on 8/11/2014 at 2:02 pm
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