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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Mike Haugen & Team Ready in Talkeetna

Hello from Talkeetna, Alaska, Our McKinley Expedition June 14th team met in Anchorage on Tuesday, June 14th, since then we have spent time shopping, packing food, gear, and other necessities, and meeting with the National Park Service. Our gear is organized and packed and we are all set to fly tomorrow (Thursday, June 16th). The weather has not been clear for several days so there are many teams waiting to fly to/from the Kahiltna Glacier. The weather has not begun to clear and planes are flying. Our chances look good to fly onto the mountain tomorrow. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Mike Haugen
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Thanks for blogging.  Looking forward to following your progress.  Have fun.  See you soon!

Posted by: The Koch Family on 6/18/2011 at 4:30 am

Go Patrick! Denali waits for no man.

Posted by: Austin on 6/17/2011 at 10:01 am


Elbrus Team Gathers in Moscow

Greetings Everyone, Casey here checking in from Russia. Everyone is doing really well despite the standard jet lag we are all feeling. The last few days have been busy with sightseeing in Moscow while trying to chase down missing luggage. The group spent the better part of yesterday seeing the sights, which included the Famous Red Square, St. Basil's, and the Kremlin. Some of the team even had a quick visit to Lenin's tomb. After our day in the city we wrapped up the day with a very traditional meal of beef stroganoff. I won't mention any names (Kevin) but someone thought it would be ok to order Nachos! Needless to say they were not quite up to US standards. Sometimes we just have to learn the hard way. We woke early today for our 3 hour flight to Mineralyne Vody which is in the southern plains of Russia that lead to the Caucasus Mountains and Mt. Elbrus. After the standard delays that everyone encounters while traveling here we were on our way. The drive took us about 4 hours and was through the beautiful country side that reminds one of the Midwest (think of rural Ohio). There were sunflower fields that streched out as far as the eye could see. After a few hours of driving and a few near misses with the wandering cows we finally arrived at the Baksan Valley which leads to the mighty Elbrus. We are currently in a small ski town called Azau. Our plan is to catch up on some much needed sleep and spend tomorrow hiking and taking in the views. Stay tuned! more to come soon.
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Aconcagua: Cifelli & Team Rest-Step their way to Camp 3

Today began with a team meeting at breakfast. Last night there was a possibility that mud slides in the Vacas Valley would prevent us from coming down the mountain the way we came. Fearless leader Dom confirmed we would not be able to backtrack the way we came and instead would go down the other side of the mountain to the Mulas base camp, a route known as the "360." Since we would not be able to go back to our original base camp, we'll have one of the helicopters pick up our duffels and bring them to us at the Mulas base camp. 

Our carry day to Camp 3 today brought many us to new high points, with Camp 3 at nearly 19,600ft. Since we would have to carry all our gear up and over the mountain, as opposed to caching it at Camp 2, we all had pretty heavy packs. As we climbed today, the air got thinner and thinner, for most of us requiring a breath every step. Even though we have been at 18,000ft for almost two days, it still required significant fortitude to keep climbing. 

High elevation does a number on your body. As you climb higher, the decreasing oxygen makes it difficult to even do the very basic tasks, you loose your appetite and have to force yourself to eat, and for most climbers there is a point where they need start taking Diamox to help prevent high altitude pulmonary and cerebral edema. 

After a few days at a particular elevation, we get acclimatized and start feeling good. But we can only bring so many supplies and we have only so many days to get to the summit and back. So our schedule keeps us moving to a new higher point just as we were getting used to our current camp. This is mountaineering and one of the many things that makes it so difficult and the act of doing it so rewarding. Getting to a rest stop on a hike or the next-higher camp on a carry or move day brings a sense of relief that is hard to find in any other activity. 
As we approach our last uphill move day, and followed soon after by our summit bid, it's important to remember what a great feat we have accomplished so far, and how lucky we are to be up here with the best climbing team you could ask for. 

Climber Andy Green

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This just got even more exciting. Mudslides, helicopter transport and an alternative route. You’re all so close!

Posted by: Ed DaPra on 1/25/2024 at 7:19 pm

Amazing! Difficult! Rewarding! And the VIEW!

Personally could have done without some of the detail on the altitude challenges on the body Dr. Green. I trust the spirit of the team to check on each other.  Difficult day for sure.

And, best of all, The Summit is Just There!

Posted by: Michelle DeMers on 1/25/2024 at 4:04 pm


Mexico: Wittmier and Team enjoy Valentines Day at High Camp

Feliz Día de San Valentin :)

We are now settled in at high camp on Ixta after a day of good Mexican eating and a four hour hike with heavy packs.

Everyone is in good spirits as we enjoy another nice sunset and prepare for our first big summit attempt of the trip.

Dustin

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Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Say Good Bye to their Mountain Crew

Today we started our day at 6:30 feeling good and refreshed after a much needed night's sleep. We had breakfast, then enjoyed some goodbye songs and dance from our amazing African crew of porters, cooks, and local guides numbering 37 to our team of seven. We finished the little celebration by handing out their well deserved tips and then hit the trail one last time.

It took just under three hours to reach the park gate where the team had lunch then hopped aboard our awaiting bus for the ride back to the lodge.

Finally we are all safe and sound, cleaner, and smelling fresh after an exciting seven-day journey up and down Kilimanjaro.

Stayed tuned, Safari starts tomorrow!

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kilimanjaro crew

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Mt. Baker: Blais & Team Check In from Hogsback Camp

This is Zeb Blais and team checking in from our first camp on Mount Baker. We're gearing up to do a little training this afternoon, and then tuck in early to get to bed. We will make our summit push on the North Ridge tomorrow. We're crossing our fingers, hoping that the weather is going to hold out for us. If not, we have some great fall back plans, but until then we're doing some training and resting up. RMI Guide Zeb Blais


RMI Guide Zeb Blais calls in from Hogsback Camp, Mt. Baker.

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Hope you all had an amazing adventure!

Posted by: Lilli and John on 8/28/2016 at 10:55 am

So excited for you guys… hit that summit and BANG! (In the words of Jay Wright!)

Posted by: Megan on 8/28/2016 at 10:52 am


Alpamayo: deAndres Martos & Team Arrive in Huaraz

Good morning from Huaraz! The team is on its day one of the expedition. After meeting in Lima, we took the mandatory 8 hour ride to Huaraz and checked into the hotel. We met with Peter, our outfitter and best asset in Peru, and headed for a much needed dinner. Early bed time to overcome the many hours of international (and domestic) travel and we´re now ready for breakfast. The plan for today? A 2 to 3 hour walk in the vicinity of town, a thorough gear check and pack for tomorrow's departure to Cashapampa, the trail head for Alpamayo. Best regards, RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos & Team
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Pete-

What a feast! Best wishes to you and your trail mates for a successful climb!

Dad

Posted by: Ted Sage on 7/16/2014 at 5:15 pm

Pete,

Great to see your smiling face in the Huaraz pic.  Jim Daverman alerted me to your presence on this trip.

Good luck;  make it happen!

Art Muir

Posted by: Art Muir on 7/15/2014 at 8:40 pm


Aconcagua Expedition: Mallory & Team - Camp 2: Nido de Condores

We were treated to another wonderfully calm, clear ... and cold night last night at Camp 1. The almost full moon hung huge in the western sky, just above the edges of the Horocones Glacier below us when we poked our heads out of the tents this morning. We dragged our feet a bit getting out of the tents but once the sun reached us we warmed right up and soon had our packs loaded and were heading up the trail. The climbing today was perfect, not too warm and hardly a breeze. Our acclimatization at Camp 1 was noticeable as we moved smoothly across the difficult sections of trail where the bedrock is covered by a thin veneer of gravel and loose stones. The time and the altitude ticked by with us hardly noticing until we found ourselves weaving between the large boulders that mark the entrance to Camp 2 at 18,330'. No afternoon clouds were forming in the west and the weather was perfect so we took our time setting up camp, soaking in the views, sipping on water, and erecting large rock walls around our tents in case the do winds pick up. The rest of the afternoon passed with little action other than relaxing in camp and getting used to the new elevations. The approach of the longest day of the year down here (tomorrow!) means that even approaching 8 o'clock in the evening the sun still hangs high in the sky right now and is keeping the tents pleasantly warm. We are all definite feeling the new jump in altitude up here - everything takes just a bit more effort - but are all feeling good. It is exciting to be moving higher on the mountain and suddenly the summit doesn't look, or feel, as far away now. We are planning on taking a stroll above Camp tomorrow but largely using it as a rest day to adjust to the new elevations and recover a bit from the days we've had since leaving Base Camp. We'll check in tomorrow afternoon. RMI Guide Linden Mallory
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Happy winter solstice!! Stay strong and take lots of wide angle shots of Aconcagua.  You can never have too many (-;

Posted by: Monsieur Homme on 12/21/2013 at 8:28 am


Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team’s Snow School on the Glacier

Today we woke up with a deep blue sky and a 360-degree view. The team slept well for our first night on the glacier. After some coffee and breakfast, we all had the experience to try the CMCs which is one of the biggest novelties of the trip. Once we were well fueled and ready to head out of camp, we traveled over to a slope close to camp and completed our snow school. Lots of learning and reviewing made for a fun day on the glacier. All and all a great day! RMI Guide Andres Marin

On The Map

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we have been thinking of you and glad to hear all is fine.  been warm here in CT and undoubtedly cold there - we’d both benefit from something in between.  most important, take care and stay safe.

Posted by: david areson on 5/17/2013 at 10:51 am


Alaska Alpine Seminar: Andres Marin & Team Kick Off the Alaska Season!

The Alaska season has begun! We all met yesterday at the airport and drove through Wasilla to pick up some food items to take on our seminar. After a great night in Talkeetna, we ate breakfast, and began organizing our equipment in preparation of flying on the glacier. I'm glad we were so prepared. After a pretty wintry day in Talkeetna, we received news that we are clear for takeoff! We are loading the plane now. There is always the possibility that the weather may turn and we'll be headed back to Talkeetna but for now, all systems are clear. Stay tuned... All best, RMI Guide Andres Marin and the Alaska Alpine Seminar.

On The Map

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