July 1, 2017 12:51 a.m. PST
We awoke to wind and snow this morning at our 17,000 ft camp. This did not phase our crew after our successful summit day yesterday. All we wanted to do is head down to warmer, thicker air. We made it all the way down to our old 11,000 ft camp, where we decided to set up tents and nap a bit. This puts us within striking distance of the airstrip at basecamp. We will have to get on the trail around 3:00 or 4:00 to make sure that the lower glacier is still frozen while we make our way to basecamp. We want those crevasse bridges as strong as possible! Wish us good flying weather for tomorrow!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
There were signs of improvement - or simply a change in the weather. It was still snowing a little and blowing a little, but it wasn't all that cold. We watched clouds and wind for a while, then pulled the trigger.
We set out from 11,000’ Camp at 11 AM and made fine progress up Motorcycle and Squirrel Hills. The Polo Field put up a little resistance, we had to break trail through new snow to reach Windy Corner at 13,200 ft. The clouds denied us the big views. But we were excited to see Denali's South Peak and the West Buttress as we came around the corner and reached our 13,500’ goal for the day. We cached gear and got moving downhill with lighter packs, pulling back into 11,000’ Camp by 6 PM.
Packing a Toyota Land Cruiser modified for life in safari was a far cry from stuffing a backpack this morning. That's not to say we aren't missing our tent life and mountain staff but this will have to do for now. We climbed in the Land Cruisers just after 8:00 AM and the left Arumeru River Lodge -- our home away from home. We headed northwest to visit the beautiful Lake Manyara National Park. The lake is a brief stopping ground for many migratory animals and home to more than 300 bird species. We managed to see wildebeest, Cape buffalo, lots of baboon, and a herd of elephants from close up. It was a nice introduction to the incredible diversity of wildlife in Tanzania.
Everyone's eyes opened wide when we arrived at The Plantation Lodge and saw the perfectly cared for gardens, luxurious rooms and friendly staff. This will do just fine for the next couple of days while we explore the nearby parks.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
I’m so happy for the accomplishment y’all have achieved AND for the opportunity now to relax and enjoy your safari days! Congrats on 30 years to Robin and Rhonda. ❤️
It was so good to hear from the Carters yesterday! We love you and can’t WAIT to see you Sunday.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team are checking in with the RMI office as they prepare for their summit bid on Cotopaxi:
June 25, 2014 5:38am PT
We enjoyed a relaxing rest day at the Hacienda Chilcabamba. Today we will head into Cotopaxi National Park and prepare for our summit bid. We'll be in touch!
June 28, 2014 - 3:01pm PT
We we're treated to good views of Cotopaxi and five condors as we drove into the National Park. We are at the hut now, going for the summit tonight.We'll be in touch soon!
Stay Tuned!
Glad to hear you’re all well and rested. Sending love and support! Go team go! One foot in front of the other all the way to the top! Can’t wait for the updates!
Another beautiful and successful day. We woke this morning to sunny skies and a cool, fresh breeze blowing. We put away breakfast and coffee, and then packed camp. The first stretch up ski hill is a steady, consistent grind, and in many ways we were happy for the breeze. Several other teams were moving around us as well, so we were trading leads with a handful of them. One of the great parts of climbing McKinley is meeting other climbers from all over the world. The camaraderie of the mountains is pretty special.
Once we reached our camp, we spent several hours setting up tents and building some burly snow walls. We aren't sure if the winds will ramp up as forecast, but we'll be ready if they do. We are going to play tomorrow by ear, but for now everyone is settled into tents with full bellies.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard
When the team met this afternoon at the Anchorage Airport, it was impossible to ignore the weather here. From soggy Seattle or the still frozen north, here in Alaska it's sandals and shorts weather. Our team is assembled and now in Talkeetna slapping mosquitoes and laughing with new friends and teammates. Tomorrow we will pack, prepare, and hopefully fly onto the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Before bedding down we paused to raise a glass to the upcoming adventure.
RMI Guide Leon Davis
The Four Day Summit Climb June 30 - 3 July reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The weather on the mountain was very windy and cold. The team, led by RMI Guide Billy Nugent, began their descent from the crater rim at 7:30 a.m. PT. en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to Billy and today's Summit Climb team!
Hey, this is Alaska Mountaineering Seminar checking in. Last night we went to bed under increasing wind and snow. This morning we woke up to continued snow and wind and whiteout conditions.... The sun finally peered through this evening giving us a gorgeous last sunset for our time here on the Kahiltna Glacier. Tomorrow morning will be getting our flight back into Talkeetna after a great week here in the Alaska Range. Take care.
Jason Thompson checks in for their last night on the Kahiltna Glacier
Late yesterday evening we were treated to a spectacular moonrise over the Ama Dablam massif here in Pheriche. The very full moon bathed the surrounding peaks in a brilliant light, the glaciers glowing so strongly that after retreating inside I was obliged to pull my curtains closed to cast extra darkness into my little room. Luckily, the clear skies persisted through the night and we awoke to another crystal clear morning, with only the highest peaks sporting their jet stream plume of clouds far above us.
Leaving our bags in the teahouse, we set off up a small trail above Pheriche, climbing quickly we passed several stray yaks and decaying chortens as we climbed higher. With the weather staying clear and the team climbing strongly, we made good time up the ridgeline, soon gaining the summit of Nangkar Tshang, a rocky outcropping around 16,500' standing proudly above the confluence of the Imja Khola Valley - coming from Island Peak - and the Dudh Kosi Valley - coming from Everest. Along the way we had excellent views of our climbing destination, Island Peak, which we will return to in a few days after visiting Everest Base Camp. Standing by itself at the head of the valley at well over 20,000', the peak does indeed resemble an island, surrounded with a backdrop of some of the world's highest peaks including Nuptse, Lhotse, and Makalu.
After enjoying the views from the summit of Nangkar Tshang, we headed back down the trail, quickly losing the elevation that we worked so hard to gain. Before returning to Pheriche, we walked down to the the sister village of Dingboche, visiting a small building built high into the cliff face above the valley on our way. Returning to Pheriche, we returned in time to sit in on the HRA Clinic daily Altitude Talk, listening to Dr. Barb Jones from the US give us the latest briefings on altitude science and demonstrating the use of a Gamow Bag, or portable hyperbaric chamber, for us.
Tomorrow we climb higher towards Everest, bound for the small herding village of Lobuche, situated just past the terminus of the Khumbu Glacier. Communication from Lobuche is difficult but we will do our best to keep everyone up to date with our progress.
Both RMI Denali Expeditions led RMI Guides Mike Walter and Pete Van Deventer made it to High Camp today at 17, 200'. We are busy melting snow and making hot water for dinner. If the weather is good, we hope to go for the top tomorrow.
Wow. Spectacular. Your patience has paid off. Good luck with your summit. Be safe and have a blast at the top of the world.
Posted by: Bruce on 6/1/2021 at 12:10 pm
We are soooooo excited for all of you, but especially BEN! We hear the view from the top is pretty spectacular and we can’t wait to hear all about it! God bless! Pat and Althea
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The pictures are amazing !incredible feat!
Safe home!
Posted by: Kevin Murray on 7/2/2017 at 5:04 am
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