I was perplexed this morning at ABC. Shouldn't a night's sleep have healed all wounds and refreshed me enough to seize one more Everest day? But as I lay -uncomfortably- in my sleeping bag at 5:30 AM, rubbing my eyes, stifling coughs and wondering why so many muscles hurt...I remembered what we'd accomplished the day before and why we deserved every bruise, blister and affliction in return. I could hear my team starting to stir and stuff sleeping bags -in between prolonged bouts of coughing. I made myself get up and get packing and coughing since we only had to put in this one more hard and dangerous morning. Get down through the Icefall this last time without a trip, a stumble, a busted rope or ladder, an avalanche or collapse and then we might start reflecting on how nice it had been to stand on top of Mount Everest the previous day. In the early morning shadows, I could see Kent, Melissa and Seth going about their packing business with puffy faces and grim determination. We didn't say much to one another about how knees and backs hurt... or about the blasted cough. Like I say, we deserved it all and we knew it, we'd climbed good and hard for several days and to top it off, we'd tacked on the vertical mile of descent from high camp the afternoon following the summit. As horrible as it all felt at 21,300 ft, none of us had any questions as to how much worse it might have been to be waking at 26,000 ft on this morning.
The cough bordering on retch was a direct result of breathing bottled oxygen for several days. The gas had done the trick... none of us had even a hint of frostbite and we'd all turned out to be strong enough when it counted... but all of that O% humidity oxygen had irritated the heck out of our sinuses and throats and already it was considered normal for either the speaker or the listener -or both- to pause in any conversation for coughing fits, groans and spitting. We'd have made an entertaining foursome as we tightened our climbing harnesses, cinched our spikes and shouldered our packs... had anybody still been around ABC to watch. But the place was largely devoid of Western climbers by this morning. It was mostly Sherpa crews tearing camps down and constructing massive and uncomfortable loads for carrying. Our own packs were heavy enough, but nothing compared to the awkward loads we were seeing. We walked out of camp, silent, pre-occupied with our Icefall descent... but surprisingly limber. Now that we were up and rigged for climbing again, we quickly shook off the elderly affectations of the early morning.
The night before, in between coughs, we'd each admitted how surprised we were to have actually made the summit. Apparently, we'd each written off the possibility at several junctures... but each had then gone on just the same, hoping for a break. The stormy afternoon and evening on the day we'd battled our way up to the South Col wasn't exactly compatible with summit climbing. But as we sat in our tents listening to the wind, we knew we didn't have any options for either waiting or canceling the bid in favor of some future attempt. It had all come down to this one... and so we meant to make the best of it. When the winds did drop and we got out to climb at midnight, we may have been surprised, but we were also ready. We set out, six Sherpas and four members in identical down suits. Most wore clear goggles or glasses since the wind was still present and still capable of freezing eyeballs. We could see several teams up on the headwall we needed to climb, strings of headlights moving -but not very quickly- upward.
We passed the other climbing teams, one by one, as we went up the face in the night and just as dawn was beginning to the East we overtook a final team at 28,000 ft and felt fully in control of our pace and destiny as we took on the South Summit. As daylight came on, I knew it was one of the prettiest mornings I'd seen from up high. But I didn't reach for my camera. The morning was pretty because there were clouds at many levels and in many directions. I didn't take pictures for the same reason I wouldn't if I saw a large tiger coming my way with fangs barred. It was clear that our good weather window was closing and we needed to move fast and hard if we wanted to squeeze in a summit. We felt the full force of the winds as we crested the South Summit, but all were strong and all nodded their heads when I pointed across the crazy traverse topping the Kangshung and Southwest Faces and leading to the Hillary Step and the summit. We went for it, but even before we'd scrambled up the Hillary Step, clouds had covered the mountaintop. Visibility was poor at 6:45 AM when we stepped up to the summit. Most of us kept our packs on, knowing our stay would be short. It was not a day for photos and flags... just a few handshakes and hugs and we were out of there. We made quick time back down through the storm to high camp. Lucky.
And sure enough, this morning we were lucky again. The Icefall barely put up a fight for our final passage. The ladders were solid and the ropes held. Basecamp, our friends and a world of comforts... along with a few more coughs welcomed us off the mountain.
The Five Day Climb July 11 - 15 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Sam Hoffman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today on a beautiful day. The team is currently on their descent. Their patience paid off as they waited yesterday for many RMI Guides to reestablish the route to the summit. The teams will return to Camp Muir to repack and rehydrate before continuning down the remaining 4.5 miles to Paradise later today.
Congratulations climbers and a HUGE thank you to all the guides working on the route over the last several days!
Shoutout to Sam and Roland for making this an incredible experience! The fact that you worked longer hours to ensure we had an alternative route to reach the summit is what made this entire trip! I have nothing but great things to say about you both! I hope to climb a different destination with you both one day in the future! Thank you again!
Posted by: Jade Craig on 7/16/2024 at 8:23 pm
I won’t be on the DC route next week when I climb, but wanted to thank the guides for working hard to re-establish the route around what sounded like a gnarly crevasse collapse. Congrats to the climbers that reached the summit. Enjoy the Rainier Beer and cider.
Posted by: Constantine Velentzas on 7/15/2024 at 2:10 pm
It was a windy night at high camp, followed by a windy day. More importantly, it was still too windy up on Denali's South Peak for us to make an attempt. Low level clouds have come in, obscuring our views of many of the surrounding mountains. We still have hope for improved conditions tomorrow, but that will likely be our last shot at the top. Given all that, the team has stayed upbeat and excited for a chance to climb.
I heard it was a rough day and had to turn back. Job well done to get that far Tony!! I opted for some Double Rye with a friend last night and will do the bourye when you’re down safely! Congrats on what I assume is your altitude record? In TKPhi and Stay safe - Mark
We are in the final days of our trip as we traveled from Puebla to Tlachichuca today. We packed our climbing packs one final time for Pico de Orizaba, preparing our gear for the last climb of our trip. Once loaded up in the 4x4s for our journey, we drove the dusty and bumpy road to Piedra Grande; our high camp, looking at Orizaba getting closer to us throughout the drive. After reaching our destination we set up our camp for the night and walked around the camp, stretching our legs and familiarizing ourselves with what 14,000 feet feels like once again. After our rest day, everyone feels prepared for the climb ahead! Tonight we tuck in early as we have an early start for our climb tomorrow.
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide JT Schmitt turned just above Ingraham Flats today. The team had clear skies for climbing, but significant wind loading on the upper slopes made it unsafe to travel on the upper mountian. The team has started their descent and will be back to Paradise early this afternoon.
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Steve Gately reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Steve reported clear skies and a light breeze. They are on the descent and will be back to Camp Muir in a few short hours.
Congratulations Team!
I check these blog updates almost daily! I know RMI and Rainier have a lot of climbs throughout the season but it would be interesting for sure to write maybe a bit more of the Rainier climbs. Maybe a great story from a guide or climber that was told. A crazy food that was brought up on the mountain. Ask the guides who are working the climb to share a bit more. It could be Steves 10th Rainier summit or another important summit for another guide on the team. Food for thought from a lover of climbing blogs. Thank you
For the past two winters I’ve traveled to the south side of the globe to join RMI’s teams on Cerro Aconcagua (Argentina). Despite being a skier and winter-lover through and through, each fall I find myself eagerly anticipating my trip to Argentina. Thanks to the Andes, the cuisine, and the new friends I make there each year, I’ve fallen in love with Aconcagua. Here are the top five reasons I look forward to making the long voyage south each winter:
Mules: Aconcagua is a unique mountain in that it is exceptionally dry. Its base camp at 13,800’ is reached by hiking twenty-seven hot, dusty miles along the Vacas river which sits deep in a rocky and sparsely vegetated valley. We rely on mules to carry our heavy expedition equipment to Base Camp over the course of our trek. The mules, loaded with two or three 30 kilogram duffels a piece, run along the river kicking up dust with the southern flanks of Aconcagua as a backdrop. Unlike horses, which expire quickly without water, the mules can run the 27 miles to basecamp fully loaded in a single morning and make the return trip to the trailhead that same afternoon. The mules are cared for and driven by Herrieros, the predecessors of the iconic South American Gauchos. The Herrieros ride the largest and sleekest mules and wear a traditional red cap that looks like a wool beret. They tie large patterned sashes around their waists and tuck a large, leather-sheathed blade in the back. At night the sashes are used to cover the eyes of the younger or more rambunctious mules in camp while the riders sit around a fire and grill in the Argentinian style. Which leads me to another part I love about an Aconcagua expedition…
Asado: A traditional grill that sits just off the ground. Slow burned hardwood provides the coals to cook large slabs of heavily salted steak. There is simply nothing better than coming down from climbing to a camp dinner of fresh steak and wine. Over our Asado dinner the last night on trail, the team has a chance to reflect and enjoy each other’s company, knowing they’re reaching the end of a successful expedition.
Mendoza: This small city nestled in Argentinian wine country is our jumping off point for all Aconcagua expeditions. Mendoza draws tourists of all sorts: wine connoisseurs, climbers, fly fishers, horseback riders, and a host of others. But all of them find in Mendoza some of the best cuisine and wine South America has to offer. The rise in popularity of Argentinian wines complements a rich food culture that descends from a mélange of European and native cultures. Whatever you crave after three weeks in a tent, whether steak, authentic Italian pasta, empanadas, fusion, or just pizza, you’ll find it in Mendoza. I promise, it will be delicious.
The View from Chopper Camp: So far everything I’ve mentioned about climbing Aconcagua has been about food and culture (forgive me, I love a good meal!). And while the cultural experience in Argentina is undoubtedly one of my favorite parts of the Aconcagua expedition, the view at Camp Two on Aconcagua takes my breath away every time. Sitting below the Polish Glacier on a small ridge at 18,600ft, Camp Two (or Chopper Camp) offers up the first views of the greater Andean range. From Base Camp on up, climbers see Aconcagua towering above them day and night, until suddenly we come around the final traverse into camp and the Andes stretch out as far as you can see: to the north and east toward Mendoza and west all the way into Chile. It is here, at Chopper Camp, that the expedition picks up energy: the summit is close, the final push on the horizon!
The Team: As the old adage goes, it takes a village to climb a mountain, or something along those lines. Aconcagua requires a tremendous amount of teamwork every step of the way. Our broader team includes the mule drivers who make sure our equipment arrives, the porters who help a climber with an especially heavy load, the Base Camp staff who cook us our first dinners, the drivers, expedition providers, hotel staff and numerous others who work with RMI year after year to make sure climbers and guides are cared for along the way. These people become part of our team. They have become friends and mentors and I look forward to seeing them each year. And then, there is our expedition team: the three guides and ten climbers who live together, work hard building camp together each night, eat every meal together for almost three weeks, and learn more about each other in that time than most people learn in a year. This network and the chance to be part of a new climbing team, more than anything else, calls me back to Aconcagua year after year.
_____ Katrina Bloemsma hails from the mountains of Colorado, but now calls the Pacific Northwest home. She guides in Washington on Mt. Rainier and the North Cascades, and further south, on Aconcagua. An avid skier and climber, Katrina can be found chasing deep snow and warm rocks when she isn't guiding.
Good Afternoon,
This is the Alpamayo Climbing Team calling from Camp 2. We had a really good climb to here this morning. We arrived a couple of hours ago. It is 4:00pm local time, everybody is enjoying some resting time in the tent. We are melting water right now; you can probably hear the stoves. The weather is really good - stable. We are looking at the face, we might be climbing tonight, but we are going to see how it goes through the afternoon before we make a decision before we go tonight. Or we might take a rest and do it the next day. We will keep you posted.
Everybody is doing well. That’s if for now, Elias’ is out. We will call again tomorrow.
RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos & Team
Elias and Team Checking in from Camp 2 on Alpamayo
Thanks for the check in. We’re following your progress closely and hoping the weather continues to be good. Sounds like the team is strong and well. Enjoy the climb and we want to hear all about it!
In the North Cascades, RMI Guide Lindsay Fixmer and team reached the summit of Forbidden Peak via the West Ridge. Lindsay reported perfect weather during their summit bid and good route conditions.
Way to Climb!
After an early start this morning from the hotel in Kathmandu, the team boarded a plane to Lukla. Then the trek began. We met our Sherpa team and began our trek to Everest Base Camp with a hike along the Dudh Kosi River to Phakding. The weather was very nice for hiking today. Now, we are checked in at our first tea house of the trip. We are excited to have stretched our legs a bit and arrived in the mountains.
We will check in tomorrow from Namche Bazarre.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
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Shoutout to Sam and Roland for making this an incredible experience! The fact that you worked longer hours to ensure we had an alternative route to reach the summit is what made this entire trip! I have nothing but great things to say about you both! I hope to climb a different destination with you both one day in the future! Thank you again!
Posted by: Jade Craig on 7/16/2024 at 8:23 pm
I won’t be on the DC route next week when I climb, but wanted to thank the guides for working hard to re-establish the route around what sounded like a gnarly crevasse collapse. Congrats to the climbers that reached the summit. Enjoy the Rainier Beer and cider.
Posted by: Constantine Velentzas on 7/15/2024 at 2:10 pm
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