The clouds moved in after dinner last night and left a thin dusting of snow over camp. When I poked my head out of the tent early this morning things were looking ominous: a thick cloud cover hung just over camp and everything was white. But a few miles down the valley the cloud bank broke and I could see morning light hitting the peaks behind. Gradually as I watched the clouds overhead dissipated and the peaks immediately around Base Camp lit up in the pink morning light. With the hulk of Aconcagua immediately to our east, Base Camp sat in shadow while we crawled out of the tents for breakfast. Even by 8:30 with the clear skies and snow there was a nip to the air as we packed our bags but just as we shouldered our packs, the sun peaked over the ridge line high above and immediately warmed us up.
Bound for Camp 1 with loads of gear and supplies for the upper camps, we set out from Base Camp and crossed a small field of penitentes - the sharp snow spires - to begin ascending. The trail zigs and zags across the rocky scree slopes of Aconcagua, occasionally wrapping around rock outcroppings that jut out of the seemingly featureless slope. We made great time towards Camp 1, settling into a consistent pace and watching the brightly colored tents of Base Camp fade to small dots far below us. By midday we reached Camp 1, called "Camp Canada" which sits on the backside of massive stone tower at 16,600'. With the sun still shining and the winds holding at bay, we unloaded our gear and cached it among the snowdrifts and rocks at Camp 1. To our west large clouds were forming and soon after starting our descent the skies began to spit torrents of snow and hail that would come as quickly as they went. Between the snow flurries the sun would come out and it would be down right hot until the next wave of snow. Despite the swings in weather, and our constant clothing adjustments as a result, we made it back to Base Camp by mid-afternoon where we retreated to our tents to hang out and watch the clouds bounce over the mountaintops.
Tom and Thomas climbed remarkably well today, tackling the new terrain and altitudes with little fanfare and all the while keeping me entertained with unending stories. We are all feeling good after the day and looking forward to our planned rest day here in Base Camp tomorrow before we move higher on the mountain.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
After a short hike today we finally arrived at the exit gate of Kilimanjaro National Park and meet up with more of the Dik Dik staff who had prepared a wonderful lunch for us. It took about two hours to reach the Lodge where we greeted by all of the lodge staff outside awaiting our arrival singing and dancing. It was a very warm welcome and left everyone with big smiles.
As you can guess there were hot showers for all and a few naps too. We finished the evening with a celebration dinner and handed out summit certificates to everyone.
Now it's time to enjoy the success and do a little animal watching!
Safari starts tomorrow!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Hello from Camp 1. Today we made a bid to get to high camp but we had to turn around due to thunder storms.
We had planned on moving directly up to high camp today and foregoing our scheduled acclimatization day in order to get in front of a storm that is suppose to hit the mountain soon. That wasn't to be however.
The team made a great effort and had camp packed up and ready to go before 9am. There was a cloud cap on the mountain and as we started the climb toward Lentz Rocks, the cap dropped and big thunderheads moved in.
We made the conservative call to retreat. After rebuilding our camp the thunder picked up and we had some hail and rain. Right now the wind has picked up but the sky has cleared. Even with the lull we're committed to staying in camp for the rest of the day.
We have plenty of food and fuel and we'll just see what the weather brings in the next few days.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
James and Pete…June 2010 Electrical storm disrupted Lori / I’s Elbrus summit bid…Thxfully we were able to make it - And you too…Calm and poise and Godspeed…Waltero
Posted by: Walter on 8/31/2013 at 6:50 am
Sometimes you just have to wait it out, thunderstorms on a mountain can be big trouble
We had a nice leisurely start to the day today and met at 8:00 for breakfast and more importantly COFFEE! There was no rush today as our agenda was to visit the market of Otovalo. It just happens to be one of the largest open air markets in all of South America. There were hundreds of vendors selling everything imaginable. Lots of handmade goods and endless nick-nacks. Everyone enjoyed the market and had fun practicing their bargaining skills.
After the shopping spree we loaded up the vehicles and made our way towards Cayambe, which is the third largest mountain in Ecuador at 18,997'. It was a long and bumpy drive through the rural countryside. We stopped just short of the hut that we will base out of the next few days and hiked the remainder to further help with acclimatization.
The team has just finished a nice pasta dinner and are currently sipping some hot drinks and making our plan for the next few days. Everyone is doing well and looking forward to training tomorrow.
Casey, Adam, Jaime ( our wonderful local guide) and crew.
The RMI Teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today! The Four Day Summit Climb August 6 - 9 led by Mike Walter and the Five Day Summit Climb August 5 - 9 led by Leon Davis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:00 a.m. PT. The teams enjoyed a beautiful day on the mountain with clear skies and light wind. They began their descent from the crater rim shortly after 8 a.m. en route to Camp Muir. The teams will continue their descent to Paradise this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
It was an early morning, hustling out of hotels and bustling onto buses for the short pre-dawn ride to the airport. After a moderate amount of hurry-up-and-wait we hurried out to board a pair of Twin Otters primed for flight. There was a haze lying over Katmandu that we quickly busted through to find generally clear skies and big mountains spread across the horizon.
I had a window seat next to the port propeller and during the fifty minute flight to Lukla my eyes were mostly pressed against that window. It was only ten months since I'd left these same mountains on this same aircraft, so how could I possibly have forgotten just how spectacular and formidable these peaks could appear on a clear morning? It was as if I was seeing Ghari Shankar and Menlungtse and a thousand others for the very first time... and just like that very first time eighteen years ago, I was humbled to look out at all the impossible ridges, sheer faces and jagged summits that I will never be bold enough to attempt. Finally, the plane turned just enough for me to get a clear view of Everest lording over everything and about thirty miles distant. I turned in my cramped seat in an effort to get Erica and Ed Dohring to recognize the dark pyramid now dominating the horizon. The engine kind of messed with their view so I went back to enjoying it for myself... picking out the South Summit and noting how little snow seemed to be covering the rock of the Southwest Face. I smiled at the obvious lack of wind aloft and granted myself a clichéd climber's observation that it was "too bad we weren't going for the summit today" Of course, then remembering that temps at 29,000 ft in the last days of March were likely around -50 degrees F while with patience we could be in line for a balmy -15 degrees F in the latter half of May.
Our Yeti Air Twin Otter started diving down into a steep sided valley and I lost the view of the big hill while focusing on the small ones not so far from our wingtips. Now in the lower Khumbu Valley, it was easy to pick out terraced fields and small farms as the plane lined up for a Lukla landing. The pilot greased it, somehow matching the plane's steep descent to the opposite slant of the small runway. Within minutes we were out and walking toward a nearby teahouse to regroup as the planes sped noisily away. We sat and ordered a breakfast while discussing the best ways to keep fifteen people looking out for one another on the trails. All were relaxed, as we knew the walk to Phak Ding would be short and relatively easy. In fact, we would lose about 700 ft of vertical over the course of the morning. The trail took us past blossoming cherry and apple trees, past a few flowering dogwoods and a selection of well-tended vegetable gardens. Things were easy enough that the gang could spread out and pursue their own interests. Ed Viesturs, typically, wasted little time in getting the day's work done. Walking a more moderate pace with Erica and her Dad, I finished somewhere in the middle of the pack along with Peter Whittaker and Melissa. Our camera teams had various projects along the way, including some vegetable mo mo's that beckoned seductively from one café menu along the track. Eventually, we were back to a full compliment of climbers, cameramen and trekkers hunkered down for the evening in our teahouse along the rushing river and protected from steadily falling rain (the good flying weather was merely temporary) in the suburbs of Phak Ding.
The Four Day Climb June 16 - 19 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita & George Hedreen reached the summit of Mt. Raineir this morning around 7 am. It's a beautiful day with blue skies, light winds and cool temperatures. The team enjoyed about an hour in the summit crater before starting their descent from the crater rim shortly after 8 am. Once back at Camp Muir the climbers will have a short rest and repack, then continue 4.5 miles down to Paradise. They will have a short celebration at Rainier BaseCamp later today to conclude their adventure.
The RMI Team led by Dustin Wittmier climbed strong from 17,000' Camp to the summit of Mt. McKinley. They gained the summit ridge at 4:45 pm local time and continued to the summit at 20,310' arriving at 5: 28 pm Alaska time on Saturday, June 14th.
After enjoying some time on top, the team descended to 17,000' Camp reaching camp around 10 pm local time where they spent the night.
We had some new information about the steep snow slope on the “knees” route upon arrival at La Joya. The slope had not got any new snow and was a firm ice sheet. Having been there last fall I decided that we should come up with a new plan to acclimate our group in preparation for Orizaba. Our local guide Alan had mentioned that climbers had been descending the Ayoloco route. For context the Ayoloco glacier was declared “dead” in 2018. Our guides had used this route to climb Ixta until 2011ish. We decided that if the Ayoloco was descendable then it must be ascendable.
We set off yesterday into a dry and tall grassland filled with large sporadic pine trees, small lizards currying underfoot at 13000’. We picked our way up a “trail” not frequently used. Our high camp was 1000’ lower than the Refugio on the “knees” route but more pristine. We had a running water source nearby which doesn’t exist higher up.
Our team wound its way across Ixta’s middle slopes at midnight with the night lights of Mexico City showing the way. After a circuitous climb of the area formally known as the Ayoloco, we were on the summit at 5 am. Taking in the dawn colors before dropping into the once bountiful Ayoloco valley the team rallied like they have all trip.
The descent to La Joya aggrieved knees and toes but there’s no motivation like a hot shower, cold drink and rest day. We are in Puebla for a rest day and will repack for our Pico de Orizaba attempt on Saturday. Thanks for following along.
RMI's Denali climbing season is officially underway. Our May 10th Denali Expedition team met yesterday at the Anchorage airport and travelled north to the town of Talkeetna. We will spend today packing our gear and preparing for our expedition, as well as attending an expedition orientation meeting with the National Park Service. The plan is to have all of the T’s crossed and the I’s dotted by this evening so that we’re ready to fly into Kahiltna Base Camp tomorrow, weather permitting. We’ll keep you posted…
That certificate will be framed and hung in a place of honor!
So proud! Have fun on your safari! Love you!
Posted by: Tracy O. on 9/12/2013 at 7:52 am
A JOB WELL DONE
Posted by: randy on 9/12/2013 at 5:29 am
View All Comments