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Hello
RMI blog followers! Our team has arrived safely back at Basecamp. We are so happy to be in the thick air after a very long expedition. We have used up all our days and it is nice to enjoy the fruits of our labor. We are once again enjoying fresh Argentinian pizzas and the stories are rolling around the table.
Aside from relaxing we will be packing up duffels for our mules arriving tomorrow. We will begin our journey back to
Pampa de las Lenas where we began, then the next day we will arrive in Mendoza. We want to thank everyone for all your comments on the blog. Everyone gives their regards. This is our final dispatch for the expedition. Again, thank you! Wait...another pizza is coming. Gotta go!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
It is the end of a long, long day that technically began yesterday. I know this sounds a bit odd but my alarm was set for 10:45 pm last night, the 12th. This is one of the least appealing parts of climbing big mountains, knowing you have a huge day to come on average with three hours of sleep. But lucky for the guides and each other, our team was totally motivated. So began the ascent of the equators only snow covered place, Nevado
Cayambe at18,997 feet.
From the hut, our route began with an hour and half of rocks and scree ascending 1,000 feet to the start of the glacier. Once on the glacier, newly accumulated snow, which had softened and then frozen, provided perfect climbing conditions up the long sustained glacier. By the time we reached the summit head wall, the temperatures were in the low teens, the wind was blowing and we all climbed to the top in our down parkas. And people thought we were going to
Ecuador to get out of winter.
The summit was beautiful offering grand views of our next two mountains, Antisana and Cotopaxi, as well as Quito and Chimborazo. This is what makes the early wake up call, freezing temperatures and exhausted bodies worth it. We took seven hours to get to the top and rallied down in three. Unfortunately, both phones carried by
Nick and me died in the cold before the top so a group photo will be coming later.
After getting down and packing up, we hiked 30 minutes down to meet Victor and the magic bus to be carried off to our next accommodations, Papallacta. Here we enjoyed a fantastic meal but most importantly, natural thermal hot tubs. Which reminds me, it's time for a soak.
We are off to
Antisana later today. Wish us luck.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
On The Map
Jambo
Our team arrived safely in Arusha, Tanzania on July 24th. We spent two nights at the beautiful Dik Dik Hotel resting and recovering from our long flights and adjusting to this new climate and time zone. After sorting our gear, repacking our bags are readying ourselves for the mountain, our trek of Kilimanjaro has finally begun. The Dik Dik hotel is fantastic but it is great to get started on the mountain. We enjoyed perfect climbing conditions today. We drove from the Dik Dik Hotel to the Machame Entrance of Kilimanjaro National Park. We donned our day packs and started out, enjoying the feel of our feet on the trail after so many hours of travel. From the entrance to our first camp, the Machame camp, we gained about 3,800'. We pulled into the Machame Camp (9,800') in good style. We are resting, eating popcorn in our nice dining tent and enjoying each others company.
Everybody feels great and did just fine today. We are looking forward to a good nights sleep and another good day on the trail tomorrow.
We will check in again soon.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Happy Valentine's Day!
Greetings from La Malinche. We checked out of the hotel this morning just before a huge crowd descended on the Zocalo to celebrate the holiday. The city center has been transformed into a huge tribute to the holiday, with a sound stage and fifty foot tall heart. Getting our bags out to the vans was quite a project as many of the streets are closed.
Traffic was light getting out of the city though and Ixta was in full view. There is much more snow than I've ever seen on it so the climbing conditions should be great.
Once we arrived at La Malinche we hiked for about 4 hours. There were clouds building and distant thunder but we were still able to get to above 13,000 feet. Now we're settled into our cabanas and ready for dinner and a good night's sleep.
I'll check in tomorrow from the Altzimoni Hut on Ixta.
This is Seth checking in from Mexico City. Seven of our nine climbers have arrived safely. The other two have fallen victim to flight cancellations, but we have arranged special transportation for them. They will meet up with us the day after they arrive in Mexico.
Everything else is going well. We enjoyed a fantastic dinner at Cafe Tacuba complete with mariachi band. Now we're settling in for the night. Tomorrow we'll have breakfast overlooking the Presidential Palace and then head for La Malinche, the former training site for the Mexican olympic team.
This morning we had our standard breakfast of oatmeal and eggs at our standard time of 8 am. We then suited up for our walk up to
15,000 feet on Mt. Elbrus. The weather was pretty marginal, but it was a great opportunity to test out our various layering systems.
We spent about five hours out in the wind and snow today, made it up to 15,000 feet, and only got blown over once or twice. The views were minimal, but we had fun. That’s all for now.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 10:22 AM PT
We woke up and fired up the stoves early again today, hopeful for good climbing weather. But the clouds that were lingering above us at 4:30am have descended and engulfed the
Denali, including our camp. We are currently back in our tents staying warm and dry. There is near zero visibility with light winds and precipitation and high humidity. Unless things turn around quickly, we'll chalk today up as another day to rest and acclimate. We're hoping for improving conditions the next couple of days.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
The
Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams were walking into the crater rim just before 7:00 a.m. The weather is fairly warm with a cloud deck at 6,400'. They will spend some time on top as they cross the crater rim to Columbia Crest before starting their descent.
Well up until yesterday morning the debate was still on: Cotopaxi or the Beach? Despite the obvious draw of bagging climbing for surfing, we decided that the steep moody glaciated peak out our dining room window was a worthy endeavor, so we packed up and headed for the
Refugio José Ribas. It was a brief restfull afternoon and dinner (of course with Sopa and Ahi, our two favorite parts of every meal here) before we were off to bed, feeling oddly comfortable at 16,000 feet by now. We awoke around 1 am to find our legendary streak of good weather had not been broken. Launching in calm winds under the stars with only clouds to our north, we climbed the first thousand feet on red volcanic rock before donning spikes and venturing into the glacier with a few inches of consolidated fresh snow to provide traction. The entire crew felt strong, even stronger than on Cayambe after so much time at altitude, and before we knew it we were all on top of Cotopaxi with a clear view and a steaming crater. The route and views were all time, perfect to wrap up our time in a great country. By the time we arrived back at the hut there was another first for the crew of firsts: a hut to summit to hut record was in the bag, not far over 6 hours I believe.
We are now in Quito celebrating our 400% success this trip (100% success on 4 peaks), and will soon depart for home. What a great group we have had! Fun, positive, strong, interesting, and encouraging are all words that come to mind. We’ll call this trip a great one in the books and hope to climb with all these cats again!
Thanks also to our amazing local guides, Jaime, David, Nacho, and Christian. Also a big thanks to our driver - the Ecuadorian GPS - Victor.
RMI Guides Chris Ebeling and Adam Knoff
RMI Guides
Brent Okita and
Tyler Jones are leading our first 2014
Mt. Rainier Summit Climb! The team is doing great and had beautiful weather on their ascent to Camp Muir today. Tomorrow the team will go on an acclimatization hike and get ready for their summit bid on Wednesday.
Way to go Team Olyneck! Were rootig for you Di at work! Be safe!
Posted by: Kathy O'Callaghan on 1/30/2014 at 5:38 am
after 3 weeks….. just burn’em
;)
Good job everyone….. its time to get bonked out of your gord
Posted by: josh on 1/29/2014 at 7:16 pm
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