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Forbidden Peak: Walter Reflects on Great Climbs

August 9, 2014

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

We just wrapped up our 5 day North Cascades Custom Climb in Boston Basin. Dan, Augie, and I took advantage of the excellent weather to get some serious climbing done on Sharkfin Tower, Sahale Mountain, and the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. Special thanks to Dan and Augie for coming out to the Pacific Northwest to push their comfort zone with real alpine adventures and wild terrain. Let's do it again next year! RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Higher Than Most

July 14, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken, Sean Collon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

July 13, 2014 - 10:58 pm PT Yesterday was a tough climb to reach high camp at 17,200 ft. Bad weather at the start of the day caused us to get on the trail later than we'd have liked and a couple inches of new snow on the route made the steep pitches a little more exhausting than they might otherwise be. Even so, with heavy packs and tired legs, we were thrilled to balance along on the crest of the West Buttress, enjoying an endless sunset of golden light. We pulled into camp at 9 PM, just as the sun got tangled in thick cloud. It was a scramble to build camp and get stoves going before the real cold took hold. We ran stoves until 2:30 AM in order to have enough water. As we worked hard to get dug in, we watched a team of two guides and one climber make a late descent of the "Autobahn". They'd managed to thread the needle and hit the summit and as they neared camp, the weather came in again with clouds and wind. Our tents stood up to a few good gusts in the night and the usual blowing snow but as tired as we were, it didn't keep us awake. Morning was calm and easy where we were but too windy and mean up above, so we finished getting our camp in order and took it easy instead of climbing. The team of three has descended now and we are left alone in our quest... Likely the highest people in North America, even as we simply sit in camp on what has become a beautiful evening. If the good weather lasts until morning, we'll know how to use it. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Aconcagua: Beren & Team Heading Out!

December 23, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 9,000'

The mules are loaded up and we are ready to start the approach! Today we will walk to Pampa de Lenas and say goodbye to wheeled transit and trees. Every long journey begins somewhere and though we've been preparing for a long time, now it seems like we are actually beginning the climb. So long friends and family and stay tuned for the adventure to come. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Resting in Ecuador’s Oldest Hacienda

June 11, 2010

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Hello everyone-just a quick note from Ecuador. Today we traveled north from the city of Lasso to the city of Cayambe, and we've spent the afternoon resting in Ecuador's oldest hacienda, Guachala. The drive through the central Andes of Ecuador was beautiful; verdant rolling hills, with a mosaic of multi-colored farmland was the backdrop to the small pueblos we traveled through today. The clouds cleared enough that we were able to sneak a peak back at Cotopaxi during the drive, as well as see the southern flanks of Cayambe. The weather this afternoon has been beautiful-mostly sunny with a breeze. Tomorrow morning we will head out early for some shopping at the world famous market in the town of Otavalo, and then carry on to the climbing hut on Cayambe. I will be in touch tomorrow with an update.

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Gokyo Trek: Hahn & Team Enjoy the Views On Their Way to Lungdhen

October 9, 2023

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Gokyo Trek

Elevation: 14,330'

Daybreak in Thame was stunning. Since it clouded up yesterday before we came into town, we didn’t get a chance to see our surroundings until today. There was a lot to see, as it turned out. Gigantic rock walls and hanging glaciers and fluted, delicate ridges. We managed to swallow our coffee while watching the light come up and we got walking by 8:00 am as usual. We worked our way up the Bhote Koshi River in a broad but steep sided valley. The walking was pretty easy for the early going but as the hours wore on thing got tougher due to altitude and steadier climbing. We stopped for tea along the way and rested, of course, but it all made for a good workout. Basically five hours of tracking up through rock walled yak pastures. We gained 2000 feet of vertical as the clouds did their usual thing, rolling in at midday. It was a relief to get in to Lungdhen (just over 14,300 ft) before the thick and cool fog took over. We’ll spend two nights here at the Kongde View Lodge for acclimatization.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche Climb: Smith & Team Fly to Lukla and Begin Trek

March 22, 2023

Posted by:

Categories:

Elevation: 8,700'

Hello again,

Hurry to wait was the name of the game this morning. The team woke early for the airport. It's a hectic scene at the Domestic Airport with people flying both fixed wing and helicopter. Everyone anxiously waits hoping they get to fly. Some cloudy weather separated the team as one helicopter took off, one was waiting for air traffic to clear, and one helicopter needed to arrive in Kathmandu. After a long morning and great patience by the team, all members arrived in Lukla by 1pm. A quick lunch fueled us to make our way to our first Teahouse. The start of our trek takes a downward trend with rolling uphill mixed in. Everyone looked strong and capable as we made our way along the crisp clear river below and up and down cobbled stairs. A walk across the river via suspension bridge brings us to our home for the night. Here we are great by a yippy dog and hot lemon ginger to warm us on a crisp afternoon. First day of the trek is complete. Tomorrow we will make our way to Namche where we will spends two nights acclimatizing and souvenir shopping. As for now we are cozied up in our beds ready for so earned sleep.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guides Hannah Smith, Abby Westling, and Team

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams Unable to Climb

May 19, 2019

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,080'

Due to wind and snow overnight the Four Day Climb teams led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Hannah Smith were unable to make a summit attempt this morning. The teams were safely tucked in at Camp Muir. Dave reported snow drifts of 12+ inches. The teams will return to Paradise later this morning.

Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Explore St. Petersburg

July 16, 2014

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

I'm not too big of a man to admit...our adventure is officially over...and I'm actually sad. Our team took off early this morning after a grand finale here in St Petersburg. We had a tour of all the historical sites and finished with a great canal tour. I want to thank every team member who I now consider friends. And ask my 3rd grade school teacher Ms. Buchanan, I have a tough time making friends! Yes, we climbed Elbrus. Yes, we all made the summit. And yes, we all had a safe climbing experience...always number one on the list. But for some reason this team was pretty much the same as all my RMI teams from the past. They were AWESOME!! I can't wait to climb with all of them again. Plans are already being made for Vinson and Aconcagua. In the meantime, here is a short video of how we ended our time on this incredible adventure... RMI Guide JJ Justman

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Take a Rest at 7,800’

June 9, 2014

Posted by: Leon Davis, Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

June 8, 2014 - 9:19 pm PT Today was a great day for resting and that is what we did. We awoke to some clouds and snow at our camp at 7,800' and decided to hunker down. Reviewing some knots and hitches filled the spaces between naps and we are raring to go tomorrow if the weather allows. It is snowing at present and with more snow in the forecast, we'll just have to wait and see. RMI Guide Jake Berenn

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team Enjoying Life at Casa de Piedra

February 6, 2014

Posted by: JJ Justman, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 10,550'

It's a cowboy lifestyle. Our Aconcagua team is currently sitting by a campfire under the Andean stars telling stories and enjoying a little of the good life. Sometimes it's nice to slow down, look around and enjoy the good life. Yes, we are on a high altitude mountaineering expedition. However, this is part of that adventure. We can hear a Gaucho..."cowboy" shoeing a mule. These mules go through a lot of hard work getting all our food and gear to base camp. And it's nice yo see how the cowboys look after their animals. Tomorrow we will arise to another sunny day as the team hikes into Aconcagua Basecamp. We are all excited to arrive and settle in permanently. We will also be a little sad to say goodbye to the cowboys who are like family to us. RMI Guide JJ Justman

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Most Popular Entries

Forbidden Peak: Walter Reflects on Great Climbs

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Higher Than Most

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Aconcagua: Beren & Team Heading Out!

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Resting in Ecuador’s Oldest Hacienda

Gokyo Trek: Hahn & Team Enjoy the Views On Their Way to Lungdhen

Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche Climb: Smith & Team Fly to Lukla and Begin Trek

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams Unable to Climb

Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Explore St. Petersburg

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Take a Rest at 7,800’

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team Enjoying Life at Casa de Piedra

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