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Aconcagua Expedition: Team Watches the Storm and Waits

Day 14

What a sight to behold. We all stood in the morning silence watching the winds on the summit. So much change within a few thousand vertical feet. Snow was getting ripped off of the highest parts of the mountain above us, disappearing into the rapidly moving clouds beyond. We sure felt grateful for the calm weather we were experiencing around camp. Despite todays spectacle, the team remains optimistic.

Till next time,

RMI Guides Luke, David and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

JOSEPH
Hunker down, do some walking about and take pictures for us.
We are so proud of you!! You’re in striking distance, Talking to the big guy for you all. Your climbing patner Daryl

Posted by: Daryl on 2/4/2022 at 7:00 am

Rooting for y’all from Vermont!! Some updates: Darius Garland was named an All-Star reserve (hell yeah), Olympics started today (US women’s hockey beat Finland 5-1 and Italy beat Norway in an 8th end heartbreaker in mixed curling), Harbaugh didn’t get Vikings job, Samuel L Jackson signed a 10-day with the Canton Charge, and Midd’s getting 12-18 tonight! Hope everyone’s doing well- y’all are crushing it!!! Relish this experience.

Posted by: Greg on 2/3/2022 at 6:46 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Team Summits!

The Four Day Climb with RMI Guides Mike King and Dustin Wittmier were on the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Above this heavy marine layer, team had clear skies, sunshine and mild winds. The climbing was great with a with a direct route and it took the team 5 hours to get to the top.

Congratulations team! 

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Woo hoo! Way to go Kelly and Janette! I’m super proud of you both. Can’t wait to hear the details and celebrate. Have fun sliding down! :)

Posted by: Jerry Verhoff on 7/3/2022 at 9:26 am

Congrats Kelly & Janette! So proud of you- woohoo!!! Love you both!

Posted by: Christina on 7/2/2022 at 5:05 pm


Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Weather the Storm at Low Camp

The storm got real last night around 11 or midnight, and sneaky -blowing hard from the previously unprotected side of our tents.  Most of the camp population was dressed up and out stumbling around in the storm, laboring to cut and carry more snow blocks to reinforce and extend walls. When the bigger gusts would power on through, people would tend to just stop whatever they were attempting and turn their backs to the assault of wind and ice pellets.  It was definitely enough of a storm to break tents, but there was only so much you could do outside to protect them.  That done, the other strategy was to get back in them and put a shoulder to the walls to help aluminum poles stand up to the blasts.  Whenever there was the perception that things had eased, one could try sleep, but that was a little like trying to nap next to a machine gun in a fire fight.  The wind howls and screams through mountains, but when it hits tent fabric, it drums. Hard and loud.  It continued well into the morning and finally eased by around 10 AM, making it a little easier to get out at 10:45 when the sun came around the mountain to hit us through clouds.  Breakfast was calm enough, but then the winds came in again and the game of snow blocks resumed for a few more hours.  By about 2:30 PM, there was a cease fire at Low Camp.  The storm was still everywhere else, with fog below and multiple cloud layers on the mountain and wind trailing big streamers of snow off the heights up by High Camp… but it got quiet and calm at Low Camp and we were able to get enough sun through the tent walls to be comfortable through the afternoon and evening.  Predictions are that tomorrow (Friday) could be a nice day and if so, we’ll be on the move.  We’ll take it step by step though.  For the moment we’re happy not to spend the night building snow forts. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Stay safe above all else.  How high would you estimate the storm winds were/are ?

Posted by: Michael Madin on 12/3/2021 at 10:56 am

Wishing for clear skies and a safe trip!

Posted by: Chad Burgert on 12/3/2021 at 9:06 am


Mt. Rainier: ALA Climb for Clean Air Teams Summit!

The Climb for Clean Air Team along with their RMI Guides Mike King and Abby Westling reached the summit of Mt. Rainier Early this morning. Mike King reported a good route, clear skies, but strong winds on the summit. The team spent a short time on top celebrating before starting their descent.

The funds raised by these climbers will support the American Lung Association’s mission of saving lives by improving lung health and preventing lung disease. 

Congratulations team for your success on and off the mountain! 

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Congratulations! You all did fantastic and you put in the work! So proud of your fundraising and climbing efforts.

Posted by: Brittany Groh on 6/24/2022 at 2:00 pm

YESSSSSS!!!!! Now, unlike myself, come down gracefully…;)

Posted by: John Pasikowski on 6/24/2022 at 11:09 am


Mountaineering Training | Fit To Climb Debrief

As the climbing season on Mt. Rainier gets underway, I want to acknowledge the hard training that has been logged. For climbers attempting mid or late season expeditions, I also want to offer encouragement for the remaining weeks and months ahead.    The Fit To Climb training program is rigorous and to complete it in its entirety requires a substantial commitment of time and effort. Do people follow it to-the-letter? Sometimes yes, often no - people become ill, work or family situations come up and the best plans work on the basis of flexibility.    A quote I find useful is, "My current circumstances do not determine the outcome, merely the point from where I begin." No matter where my fitness is today, my job is to make the best of the remaining time between now and my climb. Practically, I'll assess things in order of importance and re-evaluate strengths. For example, I have a Mt. Rainier climb on July 11th. I'll be a little short on training time during the next month so I need to improvise and adapt. I feel that I have the muscular strength I need now and I'd like to be better prepared to 'go long' and to improve hiking efficiency. So, in order of importance, long hikes, back-to-back long hikes, and stair intervals will go in my calendar as priorities. I'll also pay close attention to rest and nutrition to ensure that I can recover well.     I'll also make sure that I focus my attention during training to ensure that I'm doing each session in a way that ensures quality results. For me, that means attention to detail; everything from gear to food - and a full effort, especially on interval training.    A paradox of training for a major climb is that we want to set the bar high in training in order to replicate the demands we'll have during the expedition, however, we also want to maintain confidence if we fall short of a training session or goal. It's rarely a linear process; sometimes we feel awful just when we expected to be strong, sometimes our perfect plan goes sideways, and sometimes we feel doubt when everything has been completed perfectly.    As you start the final push, think of the key elements of success: Maintain momentum, rest when you need to, push hard when you feel strong, and constantly think about how you can recover well. And most importantly, be confident that your efforts will pay off; many people have climbed and succeeded in their goals while having not completed all of the training or while feeling sub-par. I remind myself that one can miss a few classes and still graduate. It's progress, not perfection, that counts. - John Colver Have a question? See the Fit To Climb FAQ for explanations of specific exercises and general pointers to help you through the Fit To Climb Program. John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle, and is working on his second book, Fit to Climb - a 16 week Mount Rainier Fitness Program.
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hey John,

My is Mike Lang and on the 22th June I started my climb of Rainier along with two of the greats, Ed Veisturs and Peter Whittaker, it was their first climb together this year and our whole team summited at 5.30 am on the 24th.

It was one of the hardest things I have ever done and I wanted to show my two hero’s that I was upto the task.

I followed your programe “Fit to climb” as close as possible and by the end of the 16 weeks was the fittest I have ever been…..I still had moments on the hill that tested me both Physically & mentally but I was able to fall back on my training, take a few deep breaths and suck it up when needed then continue to climb…..thats an awesome feeling.

I just wanted to thank you for your exellent programe and for the professional way its delivered every week without fail.

This last email that I just read talked about those times in our training that dont go completely to plan….so true! however your also 100% correct in saying focus on whats most important at the time and make that your priority, use the time you have left to your upmost advantage by doing the small things right and now that im finished my climb I would like to add that so many of the small things like having your food and water prepared for your breaks and knowing where your sunscreen is etc can be just as important on the day as your fittness….you stuff up your timing on those breaks and it can mean disaster on your overall preformance.

Awesome information John and thanks once again for all your help, you were a great remote mentor and it really helped me complete my goal.

Good luck with your new book….

Cheers Mike

Posted by: Mike Lang on 7/7/2014 at 2:10 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 27th Summit!

Our Four and Five Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Dan Windham and Casey Grom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. They reported beautiful skies, but the weather was cold and a bit breezy. Both teams are en route to Camp Muir and we expect them back at Ashford Basecamp later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's teams!
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Congratulations little brother (Jon)!! You never cease to amaze me. One more thing off the bucket list. You rock!!

Posted by: cleep on 6/29/2012 at 8:26 am

Racheal we are so pround of you and we are all waiting for your return. we wanna hear all about it. we know you were gonna make it. Lots of love from your team in preadmit.

Posted by: Annett on 6/29/2012 at 7:42 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Sara Recounts the Puja Ceremony

Hi from Everest Basecamp. Five days ago our expedition arrived at Basecamp. Many days before we arrived, our team of Sherpas were up here preparing our campsite, setting up tents, and putting up the Puja altar. Once the Puja altar was constructed, the next order of business was to pick the day on which the Puja ceremony would be performed. The actual day the Puja is performed on is just as important as the Puja, and April 9th was the day that was selected for our team. The actual Puja ceremony takes about two hours. Two Buddhist monks sit in front of the altar, and chant and sing religious poems and songs, while the rest of the team gathers around listening. We place our climbing gear and food around the altar so that it can be blessed by the Buddhist monks, and since we are on a glacier, mats were also laid out so that everyone could sit comfortably. Tea and coffee were served to everyone throughout the ceremony. Towards the end of the Puja, Buddhist prayer flags are draped from the top of the Puja altar to every corner of our camp (which is quite large.) An American flag was raised from the top along with a RMI flag, and a Taos, New Mexico flag (which is the home of Dave Hahn). My dad even put a Baltustrol golf club patch on the altar, which is probably the first time that has ever been displayed at Everest Basecamp. The end of the ceremony was marked when tsampa is thrown into the air and spread on everyone's faces and hair for good luck. Although I still can see some of the tsampa on my clothing, we hope this means we will have a lot of luck when we are higher up on the mountain. Food and drinks were passed around to all, and then it became a party where Sherpas, porters, and even the medical doctors from the clinic next door began to show up. Cans of Everest beer, coke, and sprite were shared and snickers bars, mars bars, cakes, and pastries were served. There were about 30+ birds flying around trying to eat some of the delicious food. The Puja ceremony really meant a lot to our Sherpas. It is performed every time an expedition attempts to climb a large mountain in the Himalaya, and the beautiful Puja alter remains standing throughout the whole expedition. As I sit here on the morning of April 11th in our communications tent looking out onto Nuptse, two of our climbing Sherpas and Dave have just reached Camp One. Two more of our Sherpa Team have also reached Camp 2 this morning. In the days that follow, we will continue to focus on our acclimatization and training to make sure we are ready to go up to Camp 1. Sara McGahan

On The Map

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Enjoy Tibet while you guys are still there! It’s a beautiful place and I wish I had enjoyed everything while I was still there. Hope everything’s going well!

Posted by: JonathanL on 4/14/2011 at 6:04 am

Great Job Bill McGahan and Sara Rose McGahan (as Adam and Owen now refer to you guys :))! What an awesome adventure!

Posted by: izzy on 4/12/2011 at 12:34 pm


Shishapangma: Team Ready for Summit Push

It has been a busy few days here on Shishapangma. Yesterday a number of teams reached the summit and we are very happy for them. Our team is back at Base camp after a solid rotation up high. Our team carried, put in and spent a few nights at Camp 2, roughly the same height as the summit of Aconcagua. On this last round were able to get in a pretty windy carry to Camp 3, somewhere around 24,500’ above the ocean. Now we're resting and recouping here at Advance Base Camp. If weather holds we will launch this weekend for shot at the top. RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in from Advance Base Camp on Shishapangma.

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Hey Jake, congrats to you and Elias on your summit of Shishapangma without o2 and sherpas - a bit late but I just read about it.
Thanks again for the great trip up Rainier this past July (ALA climb)!

Posted by: Lance on 12/7/2011 at 5:00 pm

Hey Jake, good to hear you’re all safely down. Climbing in the Himalaya must be incredible. As you told our group on Rainier last year:“The mountain will always be there”. Sounds like everyone used good judgement.
Learned a lot from you and Billy during Rainier expedition skills trip last September and trained differently for second attempt. Made it to the top this past August with Paul, Maile, and Cody as guides. Thanks for what you contributed to my mountaineering education.  Be well and I’ll hopefully be climbing with you in South America or Mexico next winter.
Best regards,
Tom Falvo

Posted by: Tom Falvo on 10/19/2011 at 5:40 pm


50 Years of Climbing: Joe Horiskey and Mt. Rainier

1979 - RMI Guide and Owner, Joe Horiskey, and RMI Guide and Co-Founder, Jerry Lynch, on the summit of Mt. McKinley (now Denali). ---- RMI Guide, Owner, and Alaska Operations Coordinator, Joe Horiskey, recounted his first Mt. Rainier climb on our blog a few years ago. To kick off #50YearsofClimbing we are featuring Joe’s story of his first climb. This August will mark 52 years since Joe’s first climb. Find out more about having your first climb featured on our blog! ---- Forty-six years ago, August 24, 1967, I began my first summit climb of Mt. Rainier. I was a paying customer. The cost was $25, which included a One-Day Climbing School. Nevertheless, as many have, I contacted the Guide Service (it wasn’t RMI yet) and pleaded my case to avoid the training and lessen the price. I pointed out I had backpacked earlier in the summer and encountered snow, which I successfully negotiated. Alas, the manager informed me I needed the Climbing School, but proposed I carry a load of food to Camp Muir to work out the cost. Terrific! John Anderson drew a rudimentary map of the ‘route’ to Muir one Saturday morning at Paradise in early July and my only question was “how many round trips?” (I was totally serious). His deadpan reply was that one ought to do it. My trip to Muir is another story for another time. I managed to deliver the supplies and participated in Climbing School the following day. The evening of August 23, 1967, some neighbors from Lakewood dropped me off at Paradise. My folks had provided money for a hot dog at the snack bar, but a room in the Inn was out of the question. Not a problem, so I headed to the Inn to kill the evening before finding a suitable campsite. Employee Talent Shows were a nightly occurrence at Paradise Inn in the good old days. The hotel management hired people oftentimes based primarily on musical or other talent. At the conclusion of the show a juke box was cranked up, and employees and guests alike hit the dance floor for a couple of hours. I was content to watch. At 10:00 PM I donned my waiting pack (a wooden frame Trapper Nelson) and walked up the Skyline Trail a short distance above Paradise Inn. There I settled in beneath a cluster of sub-alpine fir and spent the night. Dawn on Saturday, August 24th, promised a perfect day for the trek to Camp Muir. Guide Service headquarters was located in the basement of the Visitor Center (the flying saucer) and there I met the other clients and our two guides, Tony Andersen and John Rutter. There were five clients, including myself. I can’t remember details about the trip to Muir, other than I positioned myself in line directly behind the ‘cabin girl’ headed up to cook for the guides. There was no client Bunkhouse, instead the guides on each trip would pitch and strike White Stag car-camping tents (the guides headquartered in the tiny, rock Cook Shack). Dinner was provided as part of the fee: beef stew & mashed potatoes (from #10 cans), as well as breakfast when we awoke to climb (#10 can peaches). Even a sleeping bag was supplied (I had no concern of when it may have been cleaned last). Summit day took 12 hours round trip: nine hours up and three hours down. There were three ladders to cross on the Ingraham Glacier. We left Muir at midnight and about half-way across the Cowlitz Glacier, I realized I’d left my gloves in camp. No big deal; I would tough it out. On a side note, it goes without saying we weren’t wearing helmets, beacons, harnesses or headlamp (we carried flashlights), or even gaiters. I wore wool army pants, my ‘parka’ was a Navy pea coat (heavy wool), and we were tied directly into the 150’ goldline rope with a bowline on a coil or bowline on a bight. Above the first rest break, we negotiated the ladders and traversed north onto Disappointment Cleaver. My hands were pretty damn cold (the guides hadn’t noticed my predicament) as we ascended the spine of the Cleaver. On top of DC we took our second rest break and lo and behold, one person decided to call it quits. Before resuming the ascent I screwed up my courage and asked the person staying behind if I could by any chance borrow his gloves…of course I could! High on the summit dome I was really starting to run out of gas, and we were still more than an hour from the crater. Could I/Should I drop out?! John Rutter’s emphatic answer was a resounding NO! I kept plugging. Now the rim was in sight, and slowly getting closer. But then…what the hell?! Instead of halting for a much needed break we didn’t so much as pause, traversed through the rocks, dropped into the crater and crossed. Sign the book. Un-tie and reach Columbia Crest. Hero shot. The weather was perfect. It was 9:00 AM, Sunday, August 25, 1967. August 25th, 1967 - Joe Horiskey, age 16, on the Mt. Rainier summit. Mt. St. Helens, pre-1980 eruption, in the background. Occasionally over the years I have wondered if I blocked our descent from memory; was it that much an ordeal?! I recall very little, other than being incredibly thirsty. In retrospect, we took some wrong turns on the DC (Disappointment Cleaver), which necessitated backtracking uphill (killer). At Muir we were plied with Kool-Aid. The descent to Paradise took forever, but at the parking lot I was one happy, exhausted 16-year-old. 1968 - Jim Whittaker, Joe Horiskey, and Lou Whittaker on Mt. Rainier. Joe's first year working for the guide service, which became RMI the following year. I didn’t play organized sports in high school; I grew up with parents who hated camping (but enjoyed road trips and appreciated National Parks); to suggest I wasn’t particularly studious is a gross understatement; but I had just discovered something I loved, that would stay with me for the rest of my life: climbing. Over the next winter I bothered Lou incessantly about becoming an Apprentice Guide (I even applied for work at Paradise Inn, but evidently lacked a requisite talent). At some point (maybe just to put me off), Lou and/or John Anderson said to show up at Paradise in June, and see if there was work. I did; there was; and, there still is! RMI Guide Joe Horiskey
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Great story and still kicking it after all these years. Really cool that you still have the picture of your first summit. You and Link were the guides on my first RMI climb in ‘85. Still my best memory. Congratulations and thanks for helping me and others with that accomplishment. Trace Leffler.

Posted by: Trace Leffler on 10/29/2019 at 7:33 am

How is it that I’ve known you for some 40+ years, worked with you at RMI for 17 years and still have never heard this account of your first ascent of Rainier. It’s so you!
(Great seeing you a couple of days ago).  Carry on, my friend.

Posted by: Jan Parcher on 6/4/2019 at 10:03 pm


Everest Base Camp Trek: Spend Last Day on Trail Soaking in the Sun

Hello again,

We awoke to another beautiful sunny day here in the Khumbu. We started early to beat the traffic to Lukla. The team made good time on the trail and made sure to enjoy this peaceful and majestic place.

There were still dozens of loads headed for basecamp, as always, because much of the needed supplies that arrive via plane or by mules.

With a little luck, we hope to be back in Kathmandu tomorrow morning!

Keep your fingers crossed for us.

Casey and Crew

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