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Dave Describes What the Teams Are Up To

May 17, 2009

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,500 ft.

This was the third day of rest for my team. We began it in the usual way, by collecting outside the dining tent for coffee in the sun. Except this morning we sat in light fog until the sun finally burned it all away. Even in fog, sitting on a few thousand feet of ice, it wasn't uncomfortable as now we are past mid-May and temperatures are relatively mild. Kent Harvey, Seth Waterfall and I are by now on pretty much the same internal clock... Erica, being a teenager and therefore presumably in need of more sleep, sometimes still needs a morning yell when the breakfast gets served. With the fog gone, we watched Melissa Arnot work her way safely down through the lowest part of the icefall. She is feeling better and we figure a couple of days BC rest will make her a strong addition to our upcoming summit bid. We could hear Ed Viesturs and Peter Whittaker from time to time on the morning radio, working their way up through the Yellow Band and ultimately the Geneva Spur, the final barrier guarding the approach to the South Col. They, along with Jake Norton, Gerry Moffatt, and John Griber, reported calm and easy conditions on the Lhotse Face and it was obvious they were making fine progress on their way into high camp. Tendi and Lama Babu spent last night at the South Col, building up the camp for the rest of our team and even scouting the first few hours of the route to the summit to make sure that the fixed ropes were still useable after last week's snowstorms. Erica Dohring and I went for a light hike toward civilization after breakfast. We didn't go all the way to Gorak Shep as neither of us wanted that much (or that little) civilization at this stage of the game, having gotten quite used to basecamp living and not requiring too much more than that before the summit. But the trail toward Gorak Shep is still useful. Basecamp is in a dead-end valley... there really aren't any exits, save some very burly climbing routes that might take one up Pumori, Lingtren, Khumbutse or Nuptse... or of course, one could wander up the Khumbu Icefall, but we only intend to do that one more time. The trail down-valley toward Gorak Shep was the next best thing for us on this morning. We still need to rest and recuperate from our pushes to high altitude, but then we also need to stretch our legs for this final push to the highest of altitudes. We were relieved to note that the trekker traffic had greatly diminished on the trail, along with the yak trains and porters... not that we don't like yaks, trekkers and porters, just that it is easier walking on an empty track now that the season has moved along. Erica and I got just far enough down the trail to enjoy an unobstructed view of Everest's rocky summit pyramid. Before heading back to Base, we sat watching the mountain for a time, not picking up any of the usual signs of wind... no cloud plume spawned by the summit, no streamers of snow. It all looked pretty serene and contrary to the forecasts, which still call for winds of 40 and 50 knots on these days. It gave us hope that our first summit team will luck out with calm conditions tonight so as to launch their final push. Most of the other teams are in the camps behind and below them now, lining up for what could be a busy four or five days of Everest summiting. We hope they all succeed and that the Jet Stream drifts far to the North in our next days of rest. We are torn between fully imagining the challenges and discomforts that our first team faces, now that they are safely tucked in the tents at Camp IV, and giving our imaginations a break (since we'll face all of those same challenges ourselves soon enough). Tonight will be an interesting time. Linden Mallory will do the important work of staying up through the night, here at basecamp, so as to monitor the first team's progress. They don't have to go for it tonight. Winds may build up on the Col and prevent an attempt, but our gang would still have the ability to hunker down and wait a day for better conditions. But of course, the clock is now ticking... the team is now breathing bottled Oxygen (with the exception of Ed Viesturs) and using up resources -to say nothing of brain and brawn cells... We hope they get their break soon and jump all over the opportunity.

Peter Whittaker on the radio with Linden Mallory.

Peter Whittaker explains choice to stop climbing for the night.

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Mt. Baker: Grayson & Team 100% Summit Success

August 15, 2021

Posted by: Grayson Swingle, Josh Hankin, Tatum Whatford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 10,781'

RMI Guide Grayson Swingle and his Mt. Baker team all reached the summit this morning! They will descend from the mountain today.

Mt. Rainier: June 19th Summit!

June 19, 2012

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mark Falender, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: Summit

Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Mark Falender and Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported light winds, few clouds, and very pleasant weather with the sun peaking through every now and then. The teams are now en route back to RMI Basecamp in Ashford. Mike Haugen and the Expedition Skills Seminar team also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Kautz Route and reported similar conditions. They are headed back to their high camp at 10,800' feet and will finish their week of training on the mountain and return to RMI Basecamp tomorrow afternoon. Congratulations to today's teams!

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I was part of the 4 day summit climb on June 19 with Mark & Solveig. What a magical day it was and I feel extremely privileged to have been part of it. Thank you guys so very much for your guidance, expertise and support. This has truly been one of the greatest challenges of my life and I will cherish it for a long time to come. I have taken so much away from this experience - the challenges that this mountain presents, especially the Cleaver, had me digging deeper than I ever had to attain success. Mark, Solveig, Sean, Geoff and Levi - you guys are all rock stars!! RMI can and should be very proud of you. I was sad to see the program end. Hopefully, I will link up again with Mark for a climb up Grand Teton!

Thank you again very much!
Ben Elliott

Posted by: Ben Elliott on 6/21/2012 at 2:19 am

Hey Hans ....... GREAT JOB. Blue sky’s 365 !!! Gotta love it. xoxo Love and hugs greta

Posted by: greta hardwick on 6/20/2012 at 9:18 pm

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Aconcagua: Hailes & Team at High Camp

January 24, 2022

Posted by: Walter Hailes, Jack Delaney

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

We are on the final part of our climbing adventure, the summit push. We moved camp a couple hours uphill today to Aconcagua's High Camp and are settling in for a short night. If the weather holds we will wake early to climb and the next time you will hear from us will be a message from the summit!

RMI Guide Walter Hailes

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Well done guys! Huge accomplishment. I hope to hear some great stories. have a good down climb.

Posted by: Saxby on 1/26/2022 at 9:57 pm

Congratulations Jack and team! Looking forward to all the details soon!

Posted by: Linda Delaney on 1/26/2022 at 9:31 am

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Kilimanjaro: Grom and Team Finish Descent and Prepare for Safari

September 19, 2022

Posted by: Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Elevation: 6,000'

Our final day on Kilimanjaro!

Today the team got up at 6:30 a.m. refreshed after a much needed night of sleep. We had breakfast then hit the trail one last time. It took just around three hours to reach the Mweka Gate of Kilimanjaro National Park where the team had lunch and said our final goodbyes to our amazing crew that took such great care of us on the mountain. We finished the little celebration by handing out their well deserved tips and then hopped aboard our awaiting bus for the ride back to the lodge.

Now we are all safe and sound, cleaner and smelling fresh after an exciting seven day journey up and down Kilimanjaro.

Stayed tuned, safari starts tomorrow!

RMI Guide Casey Grom and Crew

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Mt. Rainier: High Winds Keep Five Day Climb from Making Summit Attempt

June 28, 2022

Posted by: Casey Grom, Alex Halliday, Augi Fleer, Josh Geiser, Mira Schoeberlein, Bo Torrey

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,080'

The Five Day Climb June 24 - 28 was unable to make a summit attempt due to high winds at Camp Muir overnight. RMI Guides Casey Grom and Alex Halliday reported that the wind picked up around 8 pm last night averaging 60 mphs at Camp Muir with gusts over 90 mph. The wind continues to blow this morning which will prevent the teams from ascending above Camp Muir. The Five Days Teams will be descending to Paradise later this morning and returning to Rainier BaseCamp.

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Acclimatizing at ABC

May 2, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Melissa Arnot

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 21,300'

Hello, This is Dave Hahn calling from Advanced Base Camp on Mt. Everest. Beautiful day today, it was kind of windy last night and wind continued during the day. Roaring up above and just gusting down below where we were. We went for a hike, a roped up hike with crampons and ice axes, exploring the upper end of the Western Cwm. We went up to the start of a new climbing route, a new way of accessing the Lhotse face that a number of friends of ours were working hard to put in today. We wanted to check out their efforts and get a look at the terrain over there. So this a bit several hundred meters to one side of the existing route where it crosses the Bergschrund at the base of the face which is a little too active in rock fall in the conditions that we have right now. So this is an effort to try to find an alternative. It was a good outing for us. We were out for about 3 hours and enjoyed working against the altitude and working in the cold wind and seeing things from a little bit different angle. We came back and spent the afternoon in camp. Consensus is that conditions are pretty dry and dangerous on the Lhotse face. So many teams were not having their members or Sherpa go up on the standard route, but others were. Our intention now, not being able to safely climb at the moment without some new snow or some change, is to head down to Base Camp in the morning. So that is what we are looking to do – up early and heading down. That’s all for now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

RMI Guide Dave Hahn reports from ABC.

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Good Luck Dave! Have fun and safe travels!

Posted by: Mike Iem on 5/5/2012 at 7:19 am

So very jealous!!! A dream come true to summit Everest!Stay safe and careful….we look forward to each and every update!

Posted by: Keith Rayeski on 5/3/2012 at 2:35 pm

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Kilimanjaro: Team Enjoys Beautiful Lake Manyara

September 6, 2022

Posted by: Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Today was our first day of safari and we headed west to visit the beautiful Lake Manyara. The lake is a brief stopping ground for many migratory animals and home to more than 350 different birds. Everyone enjoyed the day cruising around in our safari vehicles with cold beverages in hand while seeing a few animals up close.

We didn’t see a ton of animals today, but we did get up close to a few elephants, baboons, and a number impalas. Also managed to see a couple of zebras and warthogs off in the distance.

It was a nice introduction to the incredible diversity of wildlife that Africa has and the team is looking forward to seeing more tomorrow.

We wrapped up the evening with a wonderful meal at the Plantation Lodge.

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Safari Crew

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Mt. Baker: Teams Enjoy Daytime Climb and Stand on Top

August 20, 2022

Posted by: James Bealer, Evan Sather, Brian Walters

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 10,791'

RMI Guide James Bealer and team have made it to the summit of Mt. Baker this afternoon. After the team's walk into camp yesterday, they enjoyed a late afternoon training session where they covered self-arrest, cramponing, and rope travel before heading to bed in preparation for their climb today. The team will return to camp tonight and walk back to the trailhead tomorrow.

Congrats climbers!

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Back home in Ohio! Thanks all for a great experience. So happy to make it to the top as we all encouraged each other to push on through and get as far as each of us could. Special thanks to James, Evan and Brian for making it happen for us all!!!

Posted by: Patrick Barrett on 8/24/2022 at 9:40 pm

Awesome experience with all of you!!!!!!
Thanks so much!!!!

Posted by: Cheryl Quast on 8/22/2022 at 8:31 pm

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Machu Picchu: King, Delaney & Team Arrive in Cusco, Peru

August 10, 2022

Posted by: Mike King, Jack Delaney

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Machu Picchu

Elevation: 10,850'

Tuesday, August 9, 2022 - 6:00 pm PT

Greetings from south of the equator! Sorry for the delayed dispatch but life down here moves at a different pace and we've been enjoying it. The last few days have actually been a whirlwind of cultural sites, colorful markets and adorable fluffy alpacas. After the team flew into Cusco we got dinner and went to bed early to recover from the long travel day down to Peru.

The next day we met our local guides Chris and Javier. We went and explored the Sacred Valley outside of Cusco visiting the amazing Pisac Market and enjoyed some delicioso traditional empanadas. The second half of the day was spent wandering the ancient Inca site of Ollantaytambo. The size and perfection of the stone walls were hard to comprehend even when standing right in front of them! Some of the most impressive stone masonry the world has ever seen!

Today we continued to immerse ourselves in Incan culture by visiting the Qorikancha. This Inca temple of the sun was partially destroyed and a Spanish church built on top of it. Next we drove up to see the lovely Saqsawaman! Yes it's pronounced like it looks. This site has the largest stones of any Inca site, with one that is estimated to weigh 122 tons! The next stop was a traditional weaving market that had all 4 types of Andean camels, llama, alpaca, vicuña, and guanaco! They were adorable, very soft to pet and their wool makes beautiful garments. The final stop was the Catedral del Cusco, it was full of baroque style art and decorations.

Tonight we pack for the beginning of the Salkantay Trek that we will begin at 4am tomorrow! It's a long drive to the start of the hike but spirits are high and we can't wait to get on the trail!

Buenas noches!

RMI Guides Mike King, Jack Delaney and the team

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Most Popular Entries

Dave Describes What the Teams Are Up To

Mt. Baker: Grayson & Team 100% Summit Success

Mt. Rainier: June 19th Summit!

Aconcagua: Hailes & Team at High Camp

Kilimanjaro: Grom and Team Finish Descent and Prepare for Safari

Mt. Rainier: High Winds Keep Five Day Climb from Making Summit Attempt

Mt. Everest Expedition: Acclimatizing at ABC

On The Map

Kilimanjaro: Team Enjoys Beautiful Lake Manyara

Mt. Baker: Teams Enjoy Daytime Climb and Stand on Top

Machu Picchu: King, Delaney & Team Arrive in Cusco, Peru

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