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June 15, 2017
Every once in a while in the mountains, things work out juuust right.
Our team woke up today in Talkeetna to bright blue skies, a view of the high one from town, and a scheduled flight in to the
Kahiltna Glacier at 9:00 AM. And just like that, after a full breakfast, we found ourselves waving goodbye to the greenery of the Alaskan low country and saying hello to the towering masses of ice, rock, and snow that make up the Alaska Range.
The team took full advantage of the clear weather on the flight in to snap photos and marvel at the jaw dropping scenery. And then before we knew it, we were digging in camp at 7,300 feet at Kahiltna Base Camp. We passed a relaxing day snacking, sorting out our gear, and brushing up on glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills. After a tasty burrito dinner, we have finally settled in to our tents to get horizontal before an anticipated early morning push up to ski hill camp tomorrow.
Mount Horiskey, here we come!
Love to all,
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
Our timing with the weather was perfect today - as I write this, there's a high intensity hail storm making a lot of clatter on the metal roof of our hut. This morning was beautiful. We ascended up to 15,500', a little beyond Pastukhova Rocks, building on our acclimatization. We were treated to some very nice turns on our 3,000' descent back to the huts, and we got a few jealous looks from climbers walking down on foot. Another great day on
Mt. Elbrus. Tomorrow is focused on rest, and the next day we'll see if we can ski from the top!
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
Sunday, May 31st 1:54pm PDT
This afternoon our team descended to 14,200 feet. Once evening hits, we will continue our descent to either the
McKinley camp at 11,200' or 7,800'. If we stay on schedule and pending the weather, we will be at the airstrip and ready for our flight back to Talkeetna by tomorrow afternoon.
We will be home soon!
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
On The Map
Greetings from Chile,
RMI's third
Vinson Massif Expedition of the season has arrived in Punta Arenas. While the team arrived as scheduled, two bags failed to make a connection somewhere along the way. Fortunately, after a few phone calls and some patience, they showed up at the hotel late this afternoon.
There was not a lot on the itinerary today except to get our gear ready for the flight on Sunday. It will be picked up tomorrow morning and taken to the plane and loaded ahead of time. So we went through the equipment list one last time making sure nothing was forgotten. We then went shopping to round out our lunch food for the expedition. The team is ready to fly south!
The rest of the afternoon was free to enjoy the sights of a new city and to just relax after the many miles travelled to get here.
We finished the day at La Marmita, one of the best restaurants in town.
Best regards,
RMI Guide Jeff Martin
RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Garrett Stevens led their Four Day Summit Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reached the crater rim around 7 am and were able to spend some time on the summit taking photos and enjoying the views. Both teams began their descent from the crater rim and will return to Camp Muir for a short rest before continuing down the mountain.
We look forward to seeing everyone back at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's
Summit Climb team.
Although we were excited and prepared to climb when we went to bed last night, the weather refused to cooperate with us. We woke up at midnight to hail and freezing rain, along with six inches of snow already on the ground. After two hours of watching the weather and hoping for improvement, we gave up and went back to bed.
This morning the skies were scattered, but dry. After breakfast we were able to punch a path up to the base of the route. At points the snow was nearly waist deep. Most of the snow had come down from the face above and it felt like wading through Dip-n-Dots.
We are back in camp now, resting and hoping for better weather in the morning.
Thinking of our friends and family,
RMI Guide
Eric Frank and the
Alpamayo Team
May 19, 2014, 1:05 am PT
Hello all -
Our team is just crawling into their sleeping bags here at
Kahiltna Base Camp. Our pilots at K2 Aviation found a way in between a few windy spells and at 5:45 pm we touched down in sunny cool weather. By 9:30 pm we were having dinner and very happy about making it onto the Kahiltna glacier. Many of the team could barely hide their enthusiasm from the moment they boarded the plane until we crawled into our sleeping bags for bed time.
All is great!
Goodnight friends and family -
RMI Guides Leon Davis, Mike King and Katrina Bloemsma
On The Map
This was a great day for staying put. That said, it sounded like everything outside our little tents was moving around. The forecast called for snow and wind - the reality was exactly that. I was wide-awake at 5:40 a.m., listening to what sounded like a 20-minute train derailment: an avalanche pouring off Everest's Southwest face. Several times I zipped down the tent door, only to see that we were still in the milky midst of the turbulent powder cloud thrown off by the slide. I knew the actual debris couldn't possibly hit ABC - but it was a reminder to me that it wouldn't be a day for wandering around. The decision had been made the night before that our expedition business would be put on hold. No Sherpas shuttling supplies or camera memory cards-no members going on upper mountain "hikes" in a whiteout.
My gang was due for an ABC rest day in any event, but lack of morning sun and abundant frost shaking from tent ceilings kept us all deep in our sleeping bags this morning. Pathetic as it may sound, we were too lazy to even get up and begin resting.
Once up and about, we were granted breaks in the cloud that allowed us to dry our gear and view the mayhem up on the heights. Huge ribbons of snow and cloud tore back and forth across the mountain faces and circled us. The Niagara Falls noise of it all eventually became accepted background to our head tunes and reading.
Not much thought was given to an Everest summit today. Our radio traffic with BC just confirmed that the rest of the team was wisely pushing back climbing plans. It can be difficult deciding whether marginal weather should dictate climbing plans. Thankfully, that is no longer a problem. Real Himalayan storms don't invite calculation and outfoxing. Rather, it is an obvious time for patience, for rehydration, for resting and recharging,,, and the tying down of loose objects.
We had a great kick off meeting last night and everyone is excited to be together and starting a fun week long mountain adventure to Pico de Orizaba. After quick introductions for Merrick and me (Alden, Brett, Jeff and John have climbed together in the past) we enjoyed a beautiful view from a roof top lounge looking over Mexico City. We then moved to Historico Azul a unique open air restaurant beneath a perfectly manicured canopy of trees for dinner. In each trees hung hundreds of small oil lamps giving the room a warm glow, and the food was delicious. Today we are driving to La Malinche, a small mountain resort, to begin our acclimation process with a promising weather forecast.
Thanks again,
RMI Guide Walt Hailes
RMI Guides
Brent Okita and
Jenny Konway radioed down from
Columbia Crest, the true summit of Mt. Rainier, this morning to let everyone know that the team reached the summit. Brent reported clear skies, a calm breeze, and perfect weather for a day of climbing. The team began their descent from the crater rim of Mt. Rainier at about 7:30am PT and will be back in town for a celebration dinner later today.
Congratulations to today's team!
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Ma & Pa
Posted by: Mary Ann hickey on 6/18/2017 at 12:34 am
Julian,
Hi Daddy, we are so glad the first couple of days are going well. We hope your sled is behaving itself. we are booked to flightsee Denali on the 4th. We miss you!
Love Karen, Austin ,Lexy & Gavin
Posted by: Karen Sander on 6/17/2017 at 10:06 am
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