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Mt. Baker: Bealer and Entire Team Stand on Top

RMI Guide James Bealer checked in from the summit of Mt. Baker this morning. He reported that 100% of the team was on top! The team enjoyed a beautiful bluebird day with little to no wind on their ascent to the top.

They were beginning their descent back to camp to celebrate and will get a good nights rest before packing up camp tomorrow.

Congratulations to the climbers!

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Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Rest Day at Low Camp

Today was a fine and calm, sunny day from start to finish.  Just perfect for resting.  We took it easy and tried to catch up on napping and hydration.  This camp is 9300 feet above sea level and so it was a good acclimatization day as well.  The sun hit camp at about 10:40 AM and melted the frost collecting overhead in the tents… the perfect alarm clock.  We ate a leisurely breakfast in our small dining tent and then retreated to the warmth of the tents for the day.  Dinner was in strong sunshine at 8:30 PM.  We intend to put in a good hard day tomorrow, carrying loads up the fixed ropes. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

I’ve really enjoyed and appreciated your updates. May you have safety and success

Posted by: Don Huntington on 11/30/2021 at 3:51 pm


RMI Guide Robby Young Completes the AMGA Ski Guide Course in the Wasatch Mountains

RMI Guide, Robby Young, recently completed the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Ski Guide Course, held in Utah’s Wasatch Mountains under the tutelage of IFMGA guide Erik Liedecker and Sierra ski guide, Peter Leh. Over the duration of the 12-day course, a wide array of skills was covered including uphill and downhill ski guiding techniques, technical rope skills, snowpack evaluation, winter camping, backcountry rescue, and risk management in alpine terrain. Despite Utah’s challenging snowpack and over two feet of fresh snow that fell during the course, Robby and his colleagues were able to put these skills and techniques to use in Utah’s easy-to-access alpine world. While skill development was the primary focus of the course, the famous Utah powder skiing made for a very enjoyable educational experience!
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Aconcagua Expedition: Team Returns to Mendoza

Hello again from team Aconcagua. Sorry it has been awhile but the last few days have been very busy on our end. Now that we are back in Mendoza sipping red wine and eating great beef we can fill you in on the mountain adventures. Last Thursday, the 19th, we moved from our Camp 2 at 18,000' to Camp Colera (meaning: anger) at 19,600'. It was a short move under beautifully clear skies, but we were tired nonetheless from the thin air. We set camp, ate dinner early, and prepared for the early start of our summit push. The stoves were kicked on early at 3 am to start the long process of boiling water for breakfast at altitude (I believe we are picking up a theme: the length of time it takes to do anything at high altitude is very, very long). We had a beautiful, warm, calm morning for the culmination of our goal. The moon was a sliver, but showing at the bottom, like a saucer, rather than the side as we usually see it in the northern hemisphere. At 5 am, bags were packed with food, water, and extra clothes and storm gear for our day. Crampons were on our feet, and we began the ascent from camp under the light of headlamps, wearing our parkas. There were many groups headed for the summit with us since the weather was supposed to get worse the following day and for several days after. Many groups, like us, had moved their schedule up in order to take advantage of the end of our weather window. The climb travels many switchbacks up a series of benches to our second break at the Independencia Hut, elevation: 21,000 ft. As we reached it, streams of headlamps from fellow climbers stretched below us. Taking a break here, we refueled our bodies with hot cocoa and alfajors, an Argentine treat. As the horizon began to show signs of light, we started the long traverse to the base of the Canaleta, which is a large snow couloir that takes you to the summit. Despite the thin air and tired legs, the team was feeling strong as we climbed the last couple of hours and last 1,000 ft to the summit. It was 1:40pm as the last of our boots stepped onto the top of the tallest mountain in the western hemisphere. We celebrated together with hugs and cheers and relished in the moment for what we had just accomplished. Although we could have stayed on top for hours, the clouds and snow were rolling in and forcing us to start the long descent back to our camp and our sleeping bags. We arrived back at camp at 4:30pm, just as the wind was starting to pick up and our bodies were starting to fully tire. Everyone quickly jumped into their sleeping bags and enjoyed an evening of ramen noodles and an early bedtime. The next morning we woke with sore legs and headaches from dehydration, but everyone was ready for another long descent back to base camp. We broke down camp and at 11am we headed back to Camp 2 and eventually Camp 1 to pick up both personal and group gear that we had cached days before. This is the worst part of any expedition, since our packs get heavier with each previous camp we visit. As we left camp 1 to make the last push down to base camp, our packs were weighing upwards of 25 kilos. We walked into base camp at 4:45pm with huge smiles on our faces and were greeted with tang and fresh fruit from the Grajales crew. As we chatted and laughed about where we had just been the previous day, we realized that the hardest and most dangerous part of our trip was over and we had all made it down safely. We feasted on steak and papas fritas that night and toasted to our 14 days on the mountain. We slept well that night with full bellies and happy hearts, resting up for the 21 mile walk out of the valley and back to the entrance of the provincial park. Fourteen days doesn't seem like that long a time, but Sunday we realized how deprived of color we had been, as we walked past brilliant green and yellow clumps of flowers descending the Relinchos valley towards home. Our packs were light and birds were singing nearby, making our steps light and quick. As the day wore on however, our steps slowed as the 15 miles we had to walk that day ticked past. An exciting river crossing of the Vacas river found many of the group in their skiveys, wading through thigh deep glacial waters. The late afternoon temps made the cool water dip welcome however. The last few miles were a long affair, but we arrived in camp to the smell of the arrearos cooking us a feast of an asada. One pound of slow cooked steak per person, tomato salad, fresh baked bread, and local malbec wine sent everyone to bed with full stomachs and a beautiful, uninterrupted view of the stars. Most chose to sleep outside of the tents, for views of the southern cross, and beyond! Six miles of walking the next morning brought us to Punta de Vacas and the end of our walking! Everyone piled into the van for a tired drive to Mendoza. Showers, and shaves brought everyone back to life, and Monday night the group enjoyed a celebratory dinner at the "patio," a local parilla (Brazilian style steak house but Argentinian!). The group dreamed up a wonderful way to commemorate the climb: a locally published coffee table book of Aconcagua that each signed to everyone else, so that we'll remember the faces, friendships, experiences, and stories that we have grown over the last three weeks. The guides would like to thank an incredible team of climbers for their dedication, strength, perseverance, and laughter. Gabi's 25th was a special one. And further, the team would like to thank everyone for their notes, thoughts, and positive vibes while we were headed to the highest point in the western hemisphere! Goodnight and good luck, The RMI Aconcagua Crew
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go Wally Glover and the rest of the team!
Dan in Indy.

Posted by: Dan Meno on 1/27/2012 at 3:31 pm

Can’t wait to hear all about this adventure Tom. From all accounts (including the bloggers reporting) you had a wonderful time and share an experience only a limited few understand. What a memory! Safe journey home tommorow and Saturday.
Love Mom and Dad

Posted by: Daisy on 1/26/2012 at 1:51 pm


Team Reaches Interim Camp on Cho Oyu

Hello everybody back home. This is Casey checking in. Yesterday we spent some time hiking around Cho Oyu Basecamp. Fair amount also doing some training and getting some of our gear ready to move further up the mountain, which we did today. We left early this morning and hiked for several hours to our interim camp at 17,500'. One more day to reach Advanced Basecamp, which we'll be based out of basically for the rest of the expedition. It'll be our home for the next month. Everybody's doing well. We just finished a Nepalese meal prepared by Kumar. Currently we are settling into our tents, which are surrounded by all of the yaks that have carried all of our group gear, food, and supplies for this trip. Everybody's down for the night. Everything is looking good for us. We got our first snow, just a light dusting but it was nice to see it. We'll check in again tomorrow after we reach Advanced Basecamp. Hope you guys are doing well back home,
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Mt. Rainier: High Winds Keep Five Day Climb from Making Summit Attempt

The Five Day Climb June 24 - 28 was unable to make a summit attempt due to high winds at Camp Muir overnight.  RMI Guides Casey Grom and Alex Halliday reported that the wind picked up around 8 pm last night averaging 60 mphs at Camp Muir with gusts over 90 mph.  The wind continues to blow this morning which will prevent the teams from ascending above Camp Muir.  The Five Days Teams will be descending to Paradise later this morning and returning to Rainier BaseCamp.

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Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Ascend to Shira Plateau Camp

Hello again everyone

The team had a really nice day here on Kili today, waking to clear skies and a beautiful view of Kilimanjaro looming in the distance. We had a light cloudy layer which helped keep us cool while on the trail, which was nice as the sun can be quite intense here near the equator.

We started the day waking at 6:30 to start packing up before moving into our dinning tent for a nice breakfast with porridge, fried eggs, toast, avocado and even some fresh fruit, and most importantly plenty of hot coffee.

We hit the trail shortly after 8am and slowly made our way up the rocky trail with occasional views of Kilimanjaro above. The trail climbed up a blunted ridge and eventually out of the trees and allowed for some truly spectacular views of the valley below. The team hiked for a little more than four hours before reaching out next camp that sits on the Shira plateau, which is the remnant of an ancient lava flow.

Everyone is doing very well and we are currently relaxing in camp.

RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Guten tag Herr Stowers-
We’re rooting for you in Clinton.
What an awesome experience!!
Can’t wait to hear all about it when you return.
Eric & Daniela

Posted by: Eric and Daniela on 9/1/2022 at 8:13 am

Bob and John,
That photo is heaven!!!  I can’t imagine the beauty of that moment!!!  Eat well and wish you both the strength to continue forward!!!!
Sending hugs
Mom Candy

Posted by: Candy Sinner on 8/31/2022 at 8:06 pm


Mt. Baker: Teams Enjoy Daytime Climb and Stand on Top

RMI Guide James Bealer and team have made it to the summit of Mt. Baker this afternoon. After the team's walk into camp yesterday, they enjoyed a late afternoon training session where they covered self-arrest, cramponing, and rope travel before heading to bed in preparation for their climb today. The team will return to camp tonight and walk back to the trailhead tomorrow.

Congrats climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Back home in Ohio! Thanks all for a great experience. So happy to make it to the top as we all encouraged each other to push on through and get as far as each of us could. Special thanks to James, Evan and Brian for making it happen for us all!!!

Posted by: Patrick Barrett on 8/24/2022 at 9:40 pm

Awesome experience with all of you!!!!!!
Thanks so much!!!!

Posted by: Cheryl Quast on 8/22/2022 at 8:31 pm


Ecuador: Team checks in after Acclimatization Hike on Fuya Fuya

Today we left the busy city and headed north to continue our acclimatization and experience some of Ecuador's wonderful culture. Our drive north took us to the small town of Tabacundo were we turned off the highway and drove up a cobbled stone road to the base of our next hike. Our hike for the day was the beautiful Cerro Fuya Fuya, which is large grass covered mountain with a small rocky summit that overlooks a small lake. Although Fuya Fuya is considered a small mountain here in Ecuador it is nearly as tall as Mt. Rainier, but not nearly as tough. Today's climb took just over 3 hours to reach the summit and make it back to our vehicles and everyone did great. Thankfully we timed it perfectly, because no sooner had we arrived back to the cars then the rain started to fall. We quickly left the trailhead and headed for our new home for the night at Hacienda Hosteria San Luis. San Luis is nestled in between our first climbing objective, Cayambe and one of South Americas largest markets, Otavalo. Normally we would spend the day exploring the grounds of this working ranch, but the rain is still falling and now we are relaxing, listening to the frogs croak and enjoying the peacefulness and the warmth of the fireplace. Everyone seems to be enjoying themselves and I'm sure are looking forward to a nice meal and a good night sleep. RMI Guide Casey Grom
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Lauren

Félicitations!
Excellent travail, je suis très heureux pour vous et pour l’équipe!
Gatorade est impressionnant:)

Posted by: Timborazo on 12/5/2011 at 12:51 pm

So Spence, I spent the day raking leaves…  not sure it compares to yours.  First summit bid tomorrow?

Posted by: Scott Arnold on 12/4/2011 at 4:44 pm


Mountaineering Training | Building Agility

As climbers we need to travel safely through complex and hazardous terrain to reach the day’s objective and ultimately return to the car so that we can share our mountain experiences. As Guides we have 3 specific expectations of the people we rope up with:

  1. Keep the pace of the guide
  2. Climb in balance
  3. Take care of yourself at breaks
  •  

Climbing in balance will help you manage the other two expectations. By climbing in balance you will move through the mountains more efficiently and be less fatigued so that you can re-fuel and manage your layering at the breaks. Balance can be developed and improved through a variety of training regimens, and incorporating agility training is a great way to improve your balance while climbing.

Wikipedia defines agility as

  • the ability to change the body's position efficiently and requires the integration of isolated movement skills using a combination of balance, coordination, speed, reflexes, strength, and endurance. Agility is the ability to change the direction of the body in an efficient and effective manner and to achieve this requires a combination of:
  •  
  • • balance – the ability to maintain equilibrium when stationary or moving (i.e. not to fall over) through the coordinated actions of our sensory functions
  • • static balance – the ability to retain the center of mass above the base of support in a stationary position;
  • • dynamic balance – the ability to maintain balance with body movement; speed - the ability to move all or part of the body quickly; strength - the ability of a muscle or muscle group to overcome a resistance; and lastly,
  • • co-ordination – the ability to control the movement of the body in co-operation with the body's sensory functions.

 

Mt. Rainier’s Disappointment Cleaver route tests a climber’s agility while climbing the rock ridge that divides the Ingraham and Emmons glaciers, aptly called the Disappointment Cleaver. In the spring months the route up the Cleaver is comprised of steep snow and by mid-summer is entirely rock. Regardless of the conditions, this section of the climb is more physically taxing for climbers who haven’t developed solid agility skills, as the Cleaver involves large steps, difficult footwork on loose snow or scree and 1,200 feet of elevation gain, so the ability to climb it in balance and as efficiently as possible is a must.

How to train agility:

Get off the pavement! Much of your balance and agility is achieved by small stabilizer muscles in your feet, ankles, knees, hips, and core. Running over roots, rocks, and uneven terrain will help you develop your agility by causing these muscles to fire more often and in different combinations as they adapt to the terrain changes of each step. Cross-country and alpine skiing, hiking, and yoga can all help to build these same stabilizer muscles and can be a tool if running isn’t possible for you. Off-road activities also help train you to look ahead to anticipate the irregularities of the trail. This will aid you when you climb so that you focus on what is ahead of you and don't get stuck on what is directly at your feet.

An agility ladder is a great tool for home workouts and will help your dynamic balance and coordination.  If you do not want to purchase a ladder, draw one with sidewalk chalk on your driveway. There are a multitude of potential exercises you can use with a ladder, to build quick footwork, reflexes, and agility. Start with these and build your repertoire as you see fit! 

Remember, if you're not having some fun while training then you will likely find an excuse to just go through the motions or not train. Get after it and I look forward to seeing you out in the hills!

Useful agility ladder drills: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxjC-0yuSHM

_____

Mike King is a senior guide with RMI Expeditions and a Wilderness Medicine Instructor for WMI of NOLS. Mike guides around the world for RMI. Some of his favorites are upcoming trips to Machu Picchu, Aconcagua, and Mexico's Volcanoes. 



Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

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Rich - We totally agree. Thanks adding even more context to agility training!

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer (Guide) on 2/22/2019 at 12:05 pm

I find training agility to be an excellent adjunct to the monotony of steady aerobic training.  With the right parameters, it can be used as aerobic or interval training.  In addition, breaking down the components used in developing agility such as the feet, knees, hips and trunk can greatly enhance the results.  For example, if the feet are limited in pronation or supination, it can greatly limit the strength capabilities of the muscles of the knees, hips and trunk.  When both feet have optimal strength in all motions, then power increases and fatigue decreases.  Training to climb mountains is challenging, but it leads to great rewards when the body is in fantastic condition.

Posted by: Rich Rife on 2/21/2019 at 11:59 am

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