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Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
Hey John,
My is Mike Lang and on the 22th June I started my climb of Rainier along with two of the greats, Ed Veisturs and Peter Whittaker, it was their first climb together this year and our whole team summited at 5.30 am on the 24th.
It was one of the hardest things I have ever done and I wanted to show my two hero’s that I was upto the task.
I followed your programe “Fit to climb” as close as possible and by the end of the 16 weeks was the fittest I have ever been…..I still had moments on the hill that tested me both Physically & mentally but I was able to fall back on my training, take a few deep breaths and suck it up when needed then continue to climb…..thats an awesome feeling.
I just wanted to thank you for your exellent programe and for the professional way its delivered every week without fail.
This last email that I just read talked about those times in our training that dont go completely to plan….so true! however your also 100% correct in saying focus on whats most important at the time and make that your priority, use the time you have left to your upmost advantage by doing the small things right and now that im finished my climb I would like to add that so many of the small things like having your food and water prepared for your breaks and knowing where your sunscreen is etc can be just as important on the day as your fittness….you stuff up your timing on those breaks and it can mean disaster on your overall preformance.
Awesome information John and thanks once again for all your help, you were a great remote mentor and it really helped me complete my goal.
Good luck with your new book….
Cheers Mike
Posted by: Mike Lang on 7/7/2014 at 2:10 pm
You guys are amazing!! While we are sitting in our warm places you are weathering the incredible cold hights..Wishing you great weather all the way to the summit!! Go, Vlado go!
Lumir, Maria and Patrick
Posted by: maria popek on 12/9/2011 at 10:38 pm
Mission accomplished. For today, that is. We had fine weather today, sunny and calm (but you might be surprised to see how much clothing and gear we still put on for sunny and calm conditions). We made a carry up the steep and nasty part of Mt Vinson… the fixed ropes, and put a cache of supplies at 11,800 ft. before returning to our 9,300 ft camp. By intention, we stopped about an hour short of 12,500 ft High Camp. To go up and back is a lot of work, but we hope it is the kind of work that will help with our acclimatization, making us stronger and safer when we go up there for real. The fixed rope section is a continuously steep and firm snow slope which definitely gets your attention as a physical challenge. We normally get up it in three hour long pulls with some dicey rest breaks thrown in on precarious ledges. The views are otherworldly… with ice stretching to the western horizon and then blending with the sky, and jagged peaks of rock and ice increasingly visible to our north. We were out a little more than seven hours, returning to Low Camp at 9 PM. The strong evening sun kept us comfy in our dining tent for a 10:15 supper. Rumor has it that winds may increase on the upper mountain tomorrow. We shall see.
Best Regards,
Hey Dave, Sending good wishes for great weather and strength for you and your team!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 12/1/2021 at 4:18 am
Posted by: James Bealer, Erika Birkeland, Evan Sather
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,541'
The Glacier Peak Climb with RMI Guide James Bealer reached the 10,541' Summit yesterday. The team spent most of the approach to high camp in the clouds, but got incredibly lucky on summit day, as the clouds parted, and the peak showed off beautiful hues of pink. The team had a clear day for climbing. For two of the team members this summit completes their quest to climb all FIVE Washington Volcanoes!
The team will descend about seven and a half miles to the trailhead today and celebrate in Darrington.
Congratulations Team!
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Jack Delaney, Mike Bennett, Ellison Boord, Nicole De Petris, Robert Whyte
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb July 10 - 13 led by RMI Guides Hannah Smith and Jack Delaney reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 6:45 am. Hannah reported a good route, light winds and a nice route. The team enjoyed some time on the crater before starting their descent. They will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuning down to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Congratulations! Great pics! Is there a team photo?
Posted by: Susu Therrell on 7/14/2023 at 12:02 pm
Great news! Filll us in on your decent as soon as you can.
Posted by: Nancy French on 7/13/2023 at 7:35 pm
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
On The Map
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories: Guide News Guide Grant
On the third day of my five-day AMGA Ice Instructor Course, we had planned to take two groups to Eureka, Colorado, to climb long multi-pitch ice routes. Avalanches from large snow bowls above threaten many of these routes, like the classic Stairway to Heaven. On this cold, crisp morning we encountered six inches of new snow, and after driving up to Red Mountain Pass we decided that the avalanche risk was too high and opted to go with our back up plan: climbing at Dexter Falls.
Dexter is just north of Ouray, Colorado, and offers excellent multi-pitch ice routes that are exposed to less avalanche hazard. Climbing Dexter Falls with two teams of three climbers posed new guiding challenges. Namely, avoiding knocking ice onto the climbers below. We chose to climb with both teams parallel to each other to protect against this. Parallel rope technique requires that the lead climber is thoughtful about where both following climbers will be ascending. The goal to keep them on slightly separate routes, allowing any loose ice to fall without risking injury to either climber.
The climbing was fun and we topped out having done it in a safe manner. Climbing ice in Ouray, Colorado, or anywhere for that matter, is easy and enjoyable after acquiring a relatively straightforward skill set.
I hope you enjoy the photos!
____
Geoff Schellens is a senior guide for RMI Expeditions, leading trips in Argentina, the North Cascades, Alaska, and Colorado. Geoff is currently climbing Dhaulagiri, an 8,000 meter peak in the Himalayas. See more of Geoff’s mountain photography on his website The Exposed Edge.
Posted by: Linden Mallory
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Five Day Climbs led by RMI Guides JT Schmitt and Jack Delaney reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early on this sunny July morning. The teams are on their descent and will be back at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford early this afternoon.
Congratulations climbers!
Who took this picture?
Posted by: Kevin Murray on 7/12/2022 at 10:41 am
Congratulations team on a successful ascent! Looks like a great day up there, hope you’re still thrilled all the way to base camp! Hooray for all of you!
Posted by: Judy St Amand on 7/12/2022 at 6:55 am
Hey Steve and Brian! Been following your progress all week. If I’m getting it straight, tonight is the night! So good luck and enjoy every minute of it! You guys rock.
Posted by: Dave L on 8/24/2013 at 9:17 am
Hey what’s that hat you’re wearing Chambo? WHat a nice bunch of smiles you all have on. Clearly you need more challenge. : )
Posted by: jordo on 8/23/2013 at 8:09 am
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