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Day 14
What a sight to behold. We all stood in the morning silence watching the winds on the summit. So much change within a few thousand vertical feet. Snow was getting ripped off of the highest parts of the mountain above us, disappearing into the rapidly moving clouds beyond. We sure felt grateful for the calm weather we were experiencing around camp. Despite todays spectacle, the team remains optimistic.
Till next time,
RMI Guides Luke, David and Team
Up at high camp this morning, things were blessedly calm. So much easier, after a long summit day, to have breakfast and pack up in windless and sunny conditions. We set out at noon and took on the hardest part first, getting big packs and tired legs down the fixed lines. It felt good to get that all behind us as we rolled into low camp and repacked for sled hauling down the lower glacier. We pulled in to basecamp at around 7 PM with a Twin Otter waiting. Some hurried packing, sorting and organizing followed and the Twin got off deck at 8 PM. They held dinner for us tired but excited Vinson folk. We stuffed ourselves and caught up with all the expedition folk we’d been sharing the mountain with. Our tents went up for a final night in Antarctica. It looks good for flying tomorrow so we may make it all the way to Punta Arenas on this whirlwind finish to the trip.
Best Regards,
RMI Guie Dave Hahn
Sunday, December 5, 2021 - 8:26 pm PT
We were back to high camp at 10:45 PM for a round trip time of just under 13 hours. Pretty normal for Vinson. Great views, fine weather. We had dinner back in camp and ran stoves forever to melt snow for water. Now 1:30 AM, the end of another long but magnificent day.
Awesome Dave!!!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 12/7/2021 at 3:28 am
Hello everyone!
Right out of camp we were faced with the only significant technical obstacle for this climb. This hurdle is the great Barranco Wall, which rises about 1,000 ft and looks as intimidating as it sounds. Thankfully there is a nice narrow trail that weaves its way up and through the wall and all the way to the top. Most of it feels more like steep hiking, but there are a few places that require the use of our hands to help us climb up.
The team did a good job of moving steady and allowing a few porters through with their loads precariously balanced on their heads. Which was astonishing to see!
After reaching the top we took a nice break and enjoyed the amazing views of the ice-ladened south face and valleys below. The team continued our hike for a few more hours up and down through a few valleys before reaching today’s endpoint.
All in all, it took only about 4 hours for us to reach our next camp called Karanga, named for the big and beautiful valley which it overlooks.
Casey and crew
You’re reaching new heights of both the mountain *and* your life. Way to go, and keep those steps humming!
Posted by: Gloyboy on 9/3/2022 at 5:17 am
Congratulations on scaling Barranco wall! Continued prayers for all the crew.
Posted by: Elaine on 9/2/2022 at 2:25 pm
Posted by: James Bealer, Luke Wilhelm, David Price
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 18,300'
We huffed and puffed our way up to Camp 2 today, which sits at 18,300 feet. The team did a great job with the move! Arriving at camp this afternoon, everyone felt a major sense of accomplishment. Ear to ear smiles, and hugs all around! Our hard work today will be rewarded with a much deserved day of rest tomorrow. We have now situated ourselves perfectly for a summit attempt in the coming days.
Till next time,
RMI Guide Luke Wilhelm and team
I have wonder and excitement for you on what it must feel like for this to be accomplished. What a life changing event for you. I am so excited for you all. Keep going! Love you Tim!
Teri
Posted by: Teri Derr on 2/1/2022 at 8:43 am
Richie, you da man! I’m super proud of you for pursing your life passions and adventuring to new epic heights. I’ve been reading the blogs and it sounds like you’re surrounded by amazing human beings with enormous hearts. Keep blazing upward! GO TEAM!!!
Posted by: Joey Collazo on 2/1/2022 at 5:55 am
Posted by: Mike King
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
As climbers we need to travel safely through complex and hazardous terrain to reach the day’s objective and ultimately return to the car so that we can share our mountain experiences. As Guides we have 3 specific expectations of the people we rope up with:
- Keep the pace of the guide
- Climb in balance
- Take care of yourself at breaks
Climbing in balance will help you manage the other two expectations. By climbing in balance you will move through the mountains more efficiently and be less fatigued so that you can re-fuel and manage your layering at the breaks. Balance can be developed and improved through a variety of training regimens, and incorporating agility training is a great way to improve your balance while climbing.
Wikipedia defines agility as
- the ability to change the body's position efficiently and requires the integration of isolated movement skills using a combination of balance, coordination, speed, reflexes, strength, and endurance. Agility is the ability to change the direction of the body in an efficient and effective manner and to achieve this requires a combination of:
- • balance – the ability to maintain equilibrium when stationary or moving (i.e. not to fall over) through the coordinated actions of our sensory functions
- • static balance – the ability to retain the center of mass above the base of support in a stationary position;
- • dynamic balance – the ability to maintain balance with body movement; speed - the ability to move all or part of the body quickly; strength - the ability of a muscle or muscle group to overcome a resistance; and lastly,
- • co-ordination – the ability to control the movement of the body in co-operation with the body's sensory functions.
Mt. Rainier’s Disappointment Cleaver route tests a climber’s agility while climbing the rock ridge that divides the Ingraham and Emmons glaciers, aptly called the Disappointment Cleaver. In the spring months the route up the Cleaver is comprised of steep snow and by mid-summer is entirely rock. Regardless of the conditions, this section of the climb is more physically taxing for climbers who haven’t developed solid agility skills, as the Cleaver involves large steps, difficult footwork on loose snow or scree and 1,200 feet of elevation gain, so the ability to climb it in balance and as efficiently as possible is a must.
How to train agility:
Get off the pavement! Much of your balance and agility is achieved by small stabilizer muscles in your feet, ankles, knees, hips, and core. Running over roots, rocks, and uneven terrain will help you develop your agility by causing these muscles to fire more often and in different combinations as they adapt to the terrain changes of each step. Cross-country and alpine skiing, hiking, and yoga can all help to build these same stabilizer muscles and can be a tool if running isn’t possible for you. Off-road activities also help train you to look ahead to anticipate the irregularities of the trail. This will aid you when you climb so that you focus on what is ahead of you and don't get stuck on what is directly at your feet.
An agility ladder is a great tool for home workouts and will help your dynamic balance and coordination. If you do not want to purchase a ladder, draw one with sidewalk chalk on your driveway. There are a multitude of potential exercises you can use with a ladder, to build quick footwork, reflexes, and agility. Start with these and build your repertoire as you see fit!
Remember, if you're not having some fun while training then you will likely find an excuse to just go through the motions or not train. Get after it and I look forward to seeing you out in the hills!
Useful agility ladder drills: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxjC-0yuSHM
_____
Mike King is a senior guide with RMI Expeditions and a Wilderness Medicine Instructor for WMI of NOLS. Mike guides around the world for RMI. Some of his favorites are upcoming trips to Machu Picchu, Aconcagua, and Mexico's Volcanoes.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
Rich - We totally agree. Thanks adding even more context to agility training!
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer (Guide) on 2/22/2019 at 12:05 pm
I find training agility to be an excellent adjunct to the monotony of steady aerobic training. With the right parameters, it can be used as aerobic or interval training. In addition, breaking down the components used in developing agility such as the feet, knees, hips and trunk can greatly enhance the results. For example, if the feet are limited in pronation or supination, it can greatly limit the strength capabilities of the muscles of the knees, hips and trunk. When both feet have optimal strength in all motions, then power increases and fatigue decreases. Training to climb mountains is challenging, but it leads to great rewards when the body is in fantastic condition.
Posted by: Rich Rife on 2/21/2019 at 11:59 am
Posted by: Jack Delaney, Jackson Breen, Keeley Rideout
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guide Jack Delaney led the Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise July 14 - 19. The team met last Thursday for their orientation and gear check. The next morning they went straight to the mountain. Their first camps were above Paradise and they used the terrain for training, getting everyone up to speed on cramponing, glacier travel and ice axe arrest skills. Additional training took place as the group slowly ascended over the next few days. Yesterday the team made the jump to Camp Muir. After dinner and discussion about the climb ahead they crawled into sleeping bags for a few hours of rest. With an alpine start the team left Camp Muir, they reached the summit after 6 hours of climbing, approaching the crater rim around 7 am. After enjoying the views and photo ops from the summit the team is returning to Camp Muir. Once back at Camp they will pack up and continue the final 4.5 miles back to Paradise. Their program concludes today with a celebration once they return to Rainier BaseCamp.
Nice work team! We hope you enjoyed your time on the mountain!
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
Monday, June 28, 2021 - 10:37 pm PT
Good evening,
We went to bed with the excitment of going for the summit the following day. The sky was clear and all looked calm enough in the morning. The light was green for take off. As we packed for the day clouds began to build to the south. We hoped they would stay at bay but before long they were swollowing the upper mountain. Our nice looking day took a turn and the light turned to red. Instead of taking a walk, we took a nap. Today was not our day. Snow and clouds came and went throughout the day. Camp remained quiet as no one left for the summit. What is one more day of waiting if we can summit tomorrow? Weather is looking ok for tomorrow and we are hoping with everything we half left in us that tomorrow will in fact be the day we go for the top. Patience, food, and time are running low so here's for some good weather.
Good weather, good weather, good weather,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Hannah and Dustin, I am sending good weather prayers for you and your team!!!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/30/2021 at 3:08 am
We are all thinking about you and can’t wait to hear the good word!
Hoping by now you are excited to have reached your goal!
Mom & Dad
Posted by: Judy & Dale on 6/29/2021 at 1:31 pm
Posted by: Tyler Jones, Zeb Blais
Categories: Guide News
RMI: That night you left Camp Muir with the intention of skiing Liberty Ridge. Were you able to ski that line?
Zeb Blais: The key to skiing big exposed lines is always the snow conditions. When you're looking at skiing a line like Liberty [Ridge] you can only know what the conditions are like when you get there. We were hoping that the north and northeast facing snow would be chalky, smooth, and wind packed, but when we looked at the entrance to Liberty it was clear that it wasn't going to be skiable. The Liberty Ridge Route looked like mid-summer, maybe good for ice climbing, but certainly not skiable. The Liberty Cap Glacier was down to blue ice with lumps of rime glued to it, which I imagine is fairly common since it is so steep, but the skiing below looked the same. Rappelling the Liberty Cap Glacier and skiing the rest of the line did not look like an inviting option.
RMI: What did you end up skiing instead?
Zeb Blais: After realizing that Liberty was not suitable, we turned our focus to the Mowich Face - an amazing, steep face on the northwest side of the mountain. This looked tempting at first, but it was heavily rimed with blobs of water ice. It was not a place to be on skis! We retreated back to the ridge above and decided we needed to focus on warmer, spring like-snow. We decided on the Sickle, a west-facing chute on the Tahoma Glacier. The snow in the Sickle was prime for skiing!
Tyler Jones: On our ski we had nice soft spring snow down to 8,500 feet. From there we were able traverse to our objective for the next day: Success Ridge between the South Tahoma Glacier and the Success Glacier. We spent the night on the ridge, getting some well-deserved sleep, with the magnificent 4,000-foot Success Glacier Couloir above us waiting to be skied. The conditions on the Success Glacier were superb. The snow was firm for climbing and soft for skiing. After the amazing fall line decent, we continued traversing to [the trailhead at] Paradise. As we hit the Nisqually Glacier we added more vertical to our trip and finished at the Nisqually Bridge. In total Zeb and I traveled 24 miles, gaining 19,000 feet and skiing 21,000 feet in 3 days.
RMI: How does being a Guide help prepare you for trips like this?
Tyler Jones: Being a guide helps to develop your intuitive mountain sense, which is very important for making good decisions in the mountains. It is that gut feeling that can make all the difference.
Zeb Blais: Guiding also gives me a good base-line fitness for doing long days in the mountains. Mountaineering is a unique sport that requires specific techniques and fitness to be efficient. The more you do it the better you get!
RMI: What was your favorite part of this ski trip?
Tyler Jones: My favorite part of this trip was seeing a few new places, skiing a new run, and enjoying the views of the Tahoma Glacier from Sunset Ridge.
Zeb Blais: A huge part of the trip was sharing it with Tyler. Moving in the mountains with a partner who you enjoy and trust makes all the difference. There are thousands of big and small decisions to be made when doing a trip like this, from what gear to bring to what line to ski to 'do we go left here or right?' Making these choices and learning from other experienced climbers or guides is always something I enjoy.
Can't forget skiing! Maybe I should have said this first, but the skiing was awesome! Steep, exposed skiing with great snow is one of the most exhilarating things a person can do.
RMI: What adventures do you have planned next?
Zeb Blais: I am guiding a mountaineering trip on Shasta at the end of the month, and then I'll be back on Rainier for the climbing season with a Denali West Buttress trip at the end of June.
Tyler Jones: I am guiding a Denali trip in June. After that I am planning on flying back onto the mountain for a ski trip with my fiancé Laura. After that I will return to guiding on Rainier and the Grand Teton. Then, I am getting married in September!
Great trip guys! Serious vertical.
Zeb let me know if you’re still trying to unload those Spatniks. This is Steve, the splitboarder in Spatniks. We chatted on the way up Ellery Bowl back in April.
get me at stevebrezovec at the jeeeeeeemail dot com
Posted by: Stevee B on 6/19/2013 at 5:50 pm
Bill and Sara,
What an awesome trip and pictures and what an accomplishment. Glad you are having so much fun. Saw Lisa, Morgan and Katie in Conn. last weekend. Lots of fun. Be careful, safe and good luck.
Ed, Marian and the girls.
Posted by: Ed Mule' on 4/10/2011 at 2:52 pm
Sending you lots of positive energy for a great adventure. Love being able to follow you on Facebook. Remembering my trip to Basecamp and wishing I were able to be there now.
Best wishes. ~JEN~
Posted by: Jen Petrik on 4/10/2011 at 12:39 pm
JOSEPH
Hunker down, do some walking about and take pictures for us.
We are so proud of you!! You’re in striking distance, Talking to the big guy for you all. Your climbing patner Daryl
Posted by: Daryl on 2/4/2022 at 7:00 am
Rooting for y’all from Vermont!! Some updates: Darius Garland was named an All-Star reserve (hell yeah), Olympics started today (US women’s hockey beat Finland 5-1 and Italy beat Norway in an 8th end heartbreaker in mixed curling), Harbaugh didn’t get Vikings job, Samuel L Jackson signed a 10-day with the Canton Charge, and Midd’s getting 12-18 tonight! Hope everyone’s doing well- y’all are crushing it!!! Relish this experience.
Posted by: Greg on 2/3/2022 at 6:46 pm
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