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Mt. Everest Expedition: Update

May 24, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Melissa Arnot

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 26,000'

RMI Guide Dave Hahn and the Mt. Everest team have decided to remain at Camp 4 and postpone their summit attempt until tomorrow night Nepali time. The winds remained strong and they are hoping for better weather tomorrow. We’ll keep you posted. Best of luck to the Everest Climbers!

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RMI Guide Lindsay Mann Takes On AMGA Ski Guides Course

January 26, 2012

Posted by: Lindsay Mann

Categories: Guide News Guide Grant

This January 9 - 20, 2012, RMI Guide Lindsay Mann participated in an AMGA Ski Guide Course in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. First Ascent Athletes Zach and Reggie Crist were among her classmates, and First Ascent Athlete Kent McBride was an instructor. The 12 day course focused on various ski guiding techniques such as belayed skiing, short roping, downhill guiding, pace setting, and navigation skills. The course involved resort skiing, sidecountry skiing, backcountry tours, snowcamping, and a yurt trip. Although the course was ski specific, many of these skills are transferable to glacial guiding. During the course Jackson Hole received over a foot of snow, which made for some great skiing. Lindsay plans to take more AMGA courses in the future.

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Mexico Volcanoes: JJ & Team Summit Ixtaccihuatl!

October 24, 2012

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Elevation: 17,340'

Hello RMI blog. This is JJ Justman. I am extremely happy to report that the entire team, 100%, got up Ixta this morning! We actually had an early day. We were on the summit early enough to watch the sunrise. We had just a gorgeous day to climb. Everyone's doing very, very well. Just was one heck of a team to climb. Lot of fun and I can't say enough great things about this group. So we are back at camp, we're going to get some hot drinks and then we're going to pack up camp. And we'll be heading to Puebla this evening. So we're certainly tired, we need a little hydration, a little food, but everyone is doing great. And I would like to pass the phone over to one of our team members they'd like to say something to those of you who are following our blog. Hey guys. This is TA Loeffler calling. Had an amazing morning climbing Ixta this morning with JJ and company. This climb, when you put together the two days of climbing with big loads to high camp and then getting up to the summit. Boy did we see a gorgeous sunrise! Popo in front, sending off a plume. And it's pretty surreal to get to the top of the 7th highest peak in North America. And I'm just really proud of everyone on the team. Hello to everyone out there in RMI land and it's great to share a summit with RMI once again. RMI Guide JJ Justman

RMI JJ Justman recaps Ixta summit day.

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Enjoy Beautiful Morning on the mountain

July 6, 2023

Posted by: Hannah Smith, Ben Luedtke, Roland Scott, Joey Manship, Will Nash, Ben Thorneycroft

Categories:

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Climb July 3 - 6 led by RMI Guides Hannah Smith and Ben Luedtke enjoyed a beautiful morning on Mt. Rainier. The teams reached the summit at 6:15 am under clear skies and great route conditions. The team enjoyed an hour in the crater before starting their descent. Once back at Camp Muir the climbers will have a quick break and then continue the remaining 4,500' down to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon.

Nice work team!

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Mexico’s Volcanoes: King & Team Ascend to High Camp on Ixta, Ready for Summit Attempt

November 9, 2021

Posted by: Mike King, Dominic Cifelli

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Elevation: 15,400'

We had a casual start to the day. Our hike took us to 15,400’ on Ixta where we have camp set up for the night. Our plan is to rest a little bit after the hard effort of carrying heavy packs and still adjusting to these higher elevations. This evening we will do some gear and skills refreshers. There are some ravens squawking over head and the sun feels good on the tents. Tonight we will ascend the “knees” of Ixta and gain the long and circuitous ridge line and hopefully be on the summit around sunrise. Spirits are high and everyone is healthy and enjoying having the heavy packs off their backs.

RMI Guide Mike King

Mt. Rainier: June 12th Update

June 12, 2021

Posted by: JM Gorum, Dan Windham

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,000'

The Mt. Rainier Climb, led by RMI Guides JM Gorum and Dan Windham, had high winds and new snow at Camp Muir last night. These conditions kept the team hunkered down at Camp Muir. Both teams began their descent back to Paradise at 8:00 a.m.

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Sara Recounts the Puja Ceremony

April 11, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Hi from Everest Basecamp. Five days ago our expedition arrived at Basecamp. Many days before we arrived, our team of Sherpas were up here preparing our campsite, setting up tents, and putting up the Puja altar. Once the Puja altar was constructed, the next order of business was to pick the day on which the Puja ceremony would be performed. The actual day the Puja is performed on is just as important as the Puja, and April 9th was the day that was selected for our team. The actual Puja ceremony takes about two hours. Two Buddhist monks sit in front of the altar, and chant and sing religious poems and songs, while the rest of the team gathers around listening. We place our climbing gear and food around the altar so that it can be blessed by the Buddhist monks, and since we are on a glacier, mats were also laid out so that everyone could sit comfortably. Tea and coffee were served to everyone throughout the ceremony. Towards the end of the Puja, Buddhist prayer flags are draped from the top of the Puja altar to every corner of our camp (which is quite large.) An American flag was raised from the top along with a RMI flag, and a Taos, New Mexico flag (which is the home of Dave Hahn). My dad even put a Baltustrol golf club patch on the altar, which is probably the first time that has ever been displayed at Everest Basecamp. The end of the ceremony was marked when tsampa is thrown into the air and spread on everyone's faces and hair for good luck. Although I still can see some of the tsampa on my clothing, we hope this means we will have a lot of luck when we are higher up on the mountain. Food and drinks were passed around to all, and then it became a party where Sherpas, porters, and even the medical doctors from the clinic next door began to show up. Cans of Everest beer, coke, and sprite were shared and snickers bars, mars bars, cakes, and pastries were served. There were about 30+ birds flying around trying to eat some of the delicious food. The Puja ceremony really meant a lot to our Sherpas. It is performed every time an expedition attempts to climb a large mountain in the Himalaya, and the beautiful Puja alter remains standing throughout the whole expedition. As I sit here on the morning of April 11th in our communications tent looking out onto Nuptse, two of our climbing Sherpas and Dave have just reached Camp One. Two more of our Sherpa Team have also reached Camp 2 this morning. In the days that follow, we will continue to focus on our acclimatization and training to make sure we are ready to go up to Camp 1. Sara McGahan

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Summits!

June 24, 2023

Posted by: Walter Hailes, Taylor Bickford, Josh Geiser, Nick Sinapius, Robert Whyte, Mitch Valaitis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Walt Hailes and Taylor Bickford were on the 14,410' summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Walt reported that is was a nice day of climbing on the Disappointment Cleaver Route. The team started their descent at 8:25 am and are making their way back to Camp Muir.

Congratulations Team!

Mt. Everest: Dress Rehearsal through the Khumbu Icefall

April 17, 2014

Posted by: JJ Justman, Dave Hahn, Billy Nugent, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Today was an exciting day! The entire team did a "live" rehearsal. What does that mean? Well...the team awoke at 3AM and slid on stiff boots and warm clothing, had a quick but nutritious breakfast and then began climbing the icefall with our headlamps lighting the way. Climbing in the Khumbu Icefall is impossible to describe. It is impossible to relay what it's like through photos and videos. However, the best I can say is it is simply spectacular! Giant blocks of ice tower above as you bob and weave, slice and dice your way through the giant maze. The entire team did absolutely great! This "dry run" of going through half of the icefall inspires confidence so the next time we get up at 3AM we will all be ready and rearing to go through the entire icefall and occupy Camp One at 20,000 feet. For now however, we are all happy and content after another great lunch with culinary masterpieces allowing us to fully recover. Next, a little tent time to rest these weary bones. RMI Guide JJ Justman

On The Map

Aconcagua Expedition: Hailes & Team Arrive at Basecamp!

January 15, 2022

Posted by: Walter Hailes, Jack Delaney

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 14,500'

Hola Amigos! It’s finally happened, we have arrived on the mountain! After some last minute packing and eating a lot of empanadas while we waited, we got a weather window and flew into Plaza de Mulas at 14,000 feet. It was one of the most scenic and incredible helicopter flights I’ve ever been on. We settled nicely into our Basecamp, where we will spend the next several days acclimatizing. We’re happy to be here and are going to bed with full bellies thanks to the amazing food and hospitality of the staff at camp.

RMI Guides Walt Hailes & Jack Delaney

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Most Popular Entries

Mt. Everest Expedition: Update

RMI Guide Lindsay Mann Takes On AMGA Ski Guides Course

Mexico Volcanoes: JJ & Team Summit Ixtaccihuatl!

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Enjoy Beautiful Morning on the mountain

Mexico’s Volcanoes: King & Team Ascend to High Camp on Ixta, Ready for Summit Attempt

Mt. Rainier: June 12th Update

Mt. Everest Expedition: Sara Recounts the Puja Ceremony

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Summits!

Mt. Everest: Dress Rehearsal through the Khumbu Icefall

On The Map

Aconcagua Expedition: Hailes & Team Arrive at Basecamp!

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