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Posted by: JJ Justman, Dave Hahn, Billy Nugent, Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Elevation: 17,575'
On The Map
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories: Guide News
On May 9th Jake and I departed from Base Camp around 8:00 AM, skiing down the Southeast Fork through the cold, crisp morning air to the main flow of the Kahiltna Glacier. We continued down the glacier for another half hour and reached the West Ridge of Mt. Hunter. Here Jake and I cached our skis and began climbing. We approached this objective in a light and fast technique, known as “alpine style,” bringing four days of food, a small stove, a lightweight tent, and no comfort items. As we started climbing we found a very nice boot pack leading up the ridge that made for extremely efficient travel. At first we felt guilty drafting behind someone else breaking trail, but soon decided that each of us has done our fair share of trail breaking on other peaks and that we ought to just enjoy this one. As the two of us climbed higher on the West Ridge with ear-to-ear smiles we decided on a plan, “Lets climb until we’re not having fun and then camp there.” Well, the climbing on the West Ridge was extremely fun and after twelve hours of navigating the corniced ridge, peppered with exquisite sections of rock, steep snow and ice, we found ourselves at the 11,400’ bivy - tired but still smiling. We set our tent in a small notch and ate freeze-dried dinners with a fantastic view of the Alaska Range. It was truly an awesome place to be.
The next morning brought beautiful weather and a sense of excitement for where we were and what lay ahead. With our approach of simply having fun, we enjoyed the morning views and a few cups of coffee before breaking camp at noon. Moving quickly relishing every step and with a swing of an ice tool we ascended steep snow pitches and navigated gaping crevasses. Soon we found ourselves on the summit plateau at 13,000’ walking across the largest stretch of horizontal terrain we had seen in thirty hours. From there we ascended the final 55° slope that took us to the summit ridge. From there, forty more minutes of easy climbing gave way to the summit of Mt. Hunter. While standing on the summit Jake and I hooted and hollered with excitement, “What a fun climb!”
Soon we began our descent with the same approach we used on the ascent - climb until it is not fun and then set up camp. Down the ridge we went back to our bivy site, where we decided to descend via the Ramen Route. Quickly Jake and I realized that we had made a wrong turn into the entrance of the Couloir. This meant that we had to do a few tricky rappels and down climb through seracs to get ourselves back on route. Once we were back on track, we had a few more rappels before softer snow conditions allowed us to down climb to the base of the 3,300’ Ramen Coulior.
Now, for the second time in two days, we found ourselves again on flat glaciated terrain. At this point it was getting late in the day, but we were still enjoying ourselves and decided to continue our descent. Due to the time of day we chose to navigate the extremely broken-up glacier since it provided more camping opportunities if we needed to set up camp. This was a time intensive descent however as Jake and I soon found ourselves in a world surrounded by incomprehensible seracs and crevasses. A couple more hours brought us back to the main flow of the Kahiltna Glacier and our skis. After forty-two hours we arrived back at Base Camp exhausted, hungry, thirsty, and smiling. Employing our tactic of “climb until we are not having fun” had been the perfect strategy for this route.
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RMI Guide Geoff Schellens is a senior guide leading trips on Aconcagua, the North Cascades, Mt. Rainier, as well as, guiding Ice Climbing and Mt. McKinley. He is currently preparing for his next adventure this spring on Dhaulagiri, an 8,000 meter peak in the Himalayas. See more of Geoff's mountain photography on his website.
Posted by: Casey Grom, Ben Luedtke, Mike Bennett, Will Nash, Leif Bergstrom, Evan Redman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb with RMI Guides Casey Grom and Ben Luedtke were on top of Mt. Rainier at 6:30 am. It was windy morning, but a good 6 hour and 15-minute climb of the Disappointment Cleaver route to reach the 14,410’ summit. The team is on the descent and in route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations team!
Congratulations everyone! It looks absolutely gorgeous up there. Can’t wait til I get the details from Joseph Rodriguez “Joey”
Again congratulations.
Posted by: Lisa on 7/1/2023 at 7:01 pm
Guys had a great time, so much so I’m booking for Mexico. I want to make sure JJ brings the fat finger ascender just for me…
Posted by: Louis on 6/11/2012 at 2:31 pm
We had a fantastic time learning mountaineering skills and hanging out in the hut at Camp Muir. What a great group of clients and guides! Thanks to JJ, Dan, Tim, Katey, and Alex for teaching us so much. You took a newbie and got me well started on a great obsess,er,uh, hobby! Thanks to Nick for suggesting the trip, and every body for keeping it fun. I hope Zeek’s goose grows her feathers back in time for the next trip!
Posted by: Jim on 6/10/2012 at 3:18 pm
Posted by: Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Hello everyone,
We spent today touring Tarangire National Park which is home to more elephants per square kilometer than any place on earth, and a huge diversity of other animals, it was amazing to say the least.
We saw elephants, giraffes, warthogs, impala, mongoose, baboons, ostrich, and a lot of other animals, and 13 lions! Several of them were cat napping in trees and even one that was still dinning on last nights feast by the looks of things.
We ended our day at a remote and off grid camp within the National Park and surrounded by wildlife. The camp has screened in rooms that allow the night sounds of Africa in. Hopefully everyone sleeps well tonight!
This is our last dispatch as we will exit the park tomorrow and head back to our lodge near Arusha for a quick break and shower. Then it’s off to the airport to return to our loved ones.
Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Safari crew!
Thank You letting us take this amazing trip with all of you. Great blog and beautiful pictures. Enjoy your last day!
Posted by: Kim Scogna on 9/8/2022 at 1:58 pm
What an amazing adventure! Thank you for taking us all along for the journey.
Posted by: Linda DuPertuis on 9/8/2022 at 12:11 pm
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
We were up before the sun at Lokisale, our tented hotel in the outback of Tarangire. It was wonderful to sip coffee as the baobab trees took shape with the rising sun. Some heard a lion passing near to camp. The great staff put out a fine and fast breakfast for us and then we said goodbye and hopped into the Landcruisers for one final morning of safari. We cruised the “swamp” -a vast expanse of grass- with no other cars around. There were herds of zebra and elephant, wildebeest and Cape buffalo stretching for miles and miles. Eventually, Saiman and Izach pointed our vehicles toward the distant park entrance, but on the way, we saw the good stuff… a leopard climbing a tree, a lion hunting, hyenas crunching the bones of a kill… some final scenes to sustain us during endless airplane travel homeward.
It was a few more hours back to Rivertrees Inn, and then showers and packing for travel. We had time for a last dinner together out under the big trees, and then we were headed to the airport and a million lines and our goodbyes to each other.
It has been a fine two weeks of seeing the world together. Thanks for following along.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
Saturday June 11th, 2022 – 9:04pm PT
After making our way from 17 camp to 14 camp, we crawled back into our tents and took a nap. Around 10pm, we woke up for either a late dinner or early breakfast of Ramen noodles and began packing up camp for what we thought would be the very last time. While we had walked into 14 camp in a whiteout, during our nap the clouds had settled below us and it had become a beautiful brisk night.
With camp packed up, we headed towards Basecamp and the airstrip. While we arrived in decent weather, we got word that clouds kept the planes from flying all day. We've now crawled back into our tents and await a weather window that allows us to fly back to Talkeetna.
Think good weather thoughts!
RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team
Sorry to hear about the bad weather at the end of the trip. The good news is that the mountain has been conquered and that you are all at base camp. Hoping a weather window opens soon. Well done everyone.
Posted by: Robert Edge on 6/12/2022 at 10:25 am
On The Map
Great report. Down suits sound like a BIG hit. Good luck on trip down and congrats again .
All is well here on the home front. Hugh received his bray surprise at work and loved it. Taking him out 2nite. Very old man.
Posted by: John on 3/27/2012 at 9:21 am
Hello again,
We awoke to another beautiful sunny day here in the Khumbu. We started early to beat the traffic to Lukla. The team made good time on the trail and made sure to enjoy this peaceful and majestic place.
There were still dozens of loads headed for basecamp, as always, because much of the needed supplies that arrive via plane or by mules.
With a little luck, we hope to be back in Kathmandu tomorrow morning!
Keep your fingers crossed for us.
Casey and Crew
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Yesterday we made a valiant effort on Cayambe. The team stuck together and supported each other along the way. We sat down for a break at 18200' anticipating one more hour to the summit. However, Mother Nature had a different plan, and we were privy to a surprise lightning show that was a touch too close for comfort. After packing up at the hut we made the trek south to Chilcabamba Eco Lodge where we are letting the bodies rest and reset. The team went for a neighborhood walk this morning and were delighted to have the neighborhood dogs join, although it seems the dogs had the ulterior motive of getting into mischief. Currently we are taking in stunning views of Cotopaxi and setting our sights towards our next high altitude adventure.
RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and Team
Sending Perfect weather thoughts for Cotopaxi!!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 12/8/2021 at 7:28 am
Nicole and team. We are so thankful that you and the team are safe and praying for the missing climbers.Your family are all sending you strngth and love. We love you so much Nicole, please take care of yourself. Spoke to dad, brothers, cousins, and we are praying for your safety. Aunt Mimi is with me now. Your loving Aunt Ginny
Posted by: ginny marasco on 4/18/2014 at 11:59 am
Nicole Lobiondo: Wonderful to hear you are all safe and staying confident. You are in great hands and praying for you all. You got this! Love, Nicole
Posted by: Nicole Howard on 4/18/2014 at 6:50 am
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