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Pawel had previously been a part of the Emmons and Kautz Seminars on Mt. Rainier. Finishing up the ice challenges of the Kautz, Pawel set his eyes on the prize, investigated ambitious alpine objectives and developed a plan. That plan included the North Ridge of Mt. Baker and the North Face of Mt. Shuksan. Last winter he trained for six days in Ouray, CO honing his ice skills to get ready for the task. And, as alpine climbing demands creativity, since then he's trained hard in gym and combined it with a rigorous running schedule, sometimes with a pack, at home in Chapel Hill, NC. We met up for the planned 3-day climb of the North Ridge of Mt. Baker on a Monday in the face of a grim forecast—rain coming in Tuesday morning. The plan was to establish base camp on Monday and launch Tuesday morning. So, not good. But you can't win if you don't play and a large part of success in alpine climbing is putting yourself in position for it and then letting the cards unfold as they do. We set off toward base camp, hiking along the Heliotrope Ridge Trail, popping with alpine flowers. On the hike in it was clear Pawel's creative North Carolina training had paid off. He crushed it in two hours and—just as the thought entered my own mind—he suggested, “What do you think about going for it today?” Even with the crushing time to base camp, it was still 1p.m.—a rather untraditional start to the North Ridge. While we set up camp, I considered the timeline: We'd be pushing the weather forecast, but we felt comfortable descending the Coleman-Deming route (the standard descent) in poorer weather. Once on the ice pitches of the route (approx. 9,600') you're pretty committed to the North Ridge, but we left camp with the caveat that should the weather change or the travel become more complex than planned, we'd turn back for another try later. Later never came. We made it to the ice cap in just over 3 hours, which is just over half the typical time. With a puffy cloud front still way off over the Puget Sound and a few small cells sweeping up over Colfax Peak, we committed. All the moments of consideration up to the moment of commitment in a climb like this is a struggle on par with Ali-Frasier—but once the decision is made, clarity begins—just climb. And climb we did. Up through the ice cap, onto the upper flanks of the mountain, navigating through the upper bergschrunds, to the top. Descending the Coleman-Deming route to camp we were treated with blazing red sunset reflections on Puget Sound, rolling into camp just eight short hours after leaving camp. We reconvened a day later for the North Face of Shuksan, a seldom climbed route. Seldom done for many reasons, among them being the formidable approach. After 5 hours of Amazonian bushwhacking and at least a Red Cross pint donation of blood from both Pawel and I, we arrived at the base of the actual climb. Not surprisingly, after that “warm up” the climb was like cake. Pawel's commitment to fitness and technical prep paid off and we stacked pitch after pitch after pitch of climbing until arriving at our lovely bivy atop the ridge. The next day was an open road with a full tank of gas. We connected smoothly from the Crystal Glacier to the Sulphide Glacier, crisply circumambulated the mountain, ascended the SE Ridge, and then moved out smartly toward Winnie's Slide to camp. Arriving at camp at slighly past the stroke of noon, it occurred to the both of us that a trip out to the trailhead was easily doable, and since Pawel had some good friends in Seattle he wished to visit, we decided to go for it. Four short hours later, we were at the trailhead. Packs were off, sandals on, sitting down. Life was good. And getting better. We met up for a culmination of the climb at the Chair 9 Bar and Grill. It was a pure pleasure to wrap up this stage of Pawel's alpine journey. In the face of a formidable forecast, we'd pulled off two major North Cascades objectives—a tribute to the power of positive preparation in the face of pure challenge. Well done Pawel! RMI Guide Kel Rossiter

We successfully made it down from base camp back to Pampa de Lenas. Our celebration asado was an enormous success and went late into the night which may make our final walk to the road a little slower than normal but no one would have it any other way. RMI Guide Walter Hailes & Team

Hey everyone. This is JJ and Steve here with Team One on Aconcagua. Merry Christmas everyone. Happy Holidays. We had a great day moving camp from Camp 1 to Camp 2. We made it here early afternoon at 18,000 feet, set up camp and have some hot soup on the stove. And now we're just relaxing and taking it easy on a nice sunny day here on Aconcagua. The team is doing really, really well. The weather is pretty darn nice and we have a decent forecast. It's looking like after the 28th, the winds might pick up a little bit, so hopefully, we're knocking on wood, keeping our fingers crossed. We have a little bit more work to do but the team is really, really strong and really, really fun to hang out these guys on Christmas and we of course want to say hi and hello and give our love to family and friends back at home. We will send another dispatch here on the days to come. But tomorrow our plan is to take a nice rest day and relax here at 18,000 feet. Take care everyone. Again, Happy Holidays, Merry Christmas and stay tuned. RMI Guide JJ Justman

On The Map

This was a relatively easy day for our team. We had nice, warm sunshine on the tents when we rolled out for 8 AM breakfast. As we'd become accustomed to, the world below was hidden beneath a thick blanket of cloud and the Roof of Africa was shining and clear above us. The cloud sea rose as the day went on, but so did we, staying one jump ahead in the sunshine. In such nice weather, there seemed to be no hurry, so Eliepende led our crew at a leisurely four-hour pace. We'd left 13,100 ft Karanga Camp at 9 AM and we cruised into 15,200 ft Barafu Camp at 1 PM. After a fine lunch and an inspiring discussion of our summit plans and preparations, the gang retired for a couple of quiet hours resting in the tents. We're doing a 5 o'clock dinner so as to have plenty of rest before our insanely early departure for the top. The evening is still calm and clear and we have high hopes for success. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Monday, May 12, 2025 - 7:45 pm PT

Snow has been pattering on the tent walls most of last night and all day today. It was an easy decision to sit tight, in the white world that we woke up in. We lingered over breakfast burritos, then spent the day reading, watching movies, stretching, and chatting. Camp was calm and quiet as everyone else did the same. The forecast looks like snow tails off and things get clear tomorrow so we are hoping to make our move to 11,00' Camp in the morning. All in all, everyone appreciated the rest day.

RMI Guides Pete, Nick, Ben, and team

Tuesday, May 21, 2024 - 6:55 pm PT

It's been a stormy rest day at 14,000' Camp. Early this morning, things were calm in camp and relatively clear. We could hear the wind above at 17,000', and large cloud banks seemed to hang all around. There was a large wall of white to the south of us, and by the middle of brunch, that had overtaken camp. We had little visibility and snow fell lightly. As the day went on, the wind direction moved just enough to subject us to it's gusts. The tents shake, spindrift is invading through any opening it can find, and snow continues to fall, harder now, drumming on the tents when the wind isn't shaking them. It has been a perfect day to stay deep in the sleeping bags, napping reading, snacking, playing cards, and venturing out occasionally to fortify our compound with walls cut from snow blocks. We are snug and riding it out. More tomorrow.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

This is Mike checking in for our Mexico Volcanoes team. All our climbers arrived over the last two days with bags in tow. We had a quick team meeting last night and a good dinner. Today we are enroute for our acclimatization hike on La Malinche. This dormant volcano has a dense pine forest that covers the lower slopes. The route gets above tree line after a few hours and ascends to a ridge that weaves its way to a nice summit. The air is clear here now so we are getting some good views of Ixta & Popo on our exit from Mexico City. Our hike today is approximately 9000' of gain/loss so we'll keep our fingers crossed for good weather. We will sleep at 10,000' in a former Olympic training facility....from the 1968. We won't have service at our cabins. I'll check in tomorrow while enroute to Ixta. The group is excited to get going.

Thanks for following along. 

RMI Guide Mike King

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Alan Davis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. When asked how conditions are on the summit, Andy reported that it was a "beautiful day." The teams began their descent from Mt. Rainier's crater rim around 7:00 AM. They will return to Ashford this afternoon.

This was our prep day for Kilimanjaro. We got started with introductions and itineraries at 9 AM in the hotel "boma" -the meeting place. There was plenty to cover regarding what to expect on the climb and how we’d tackle various challenges along the way. We followed the meeting up with equipment checks and packing... and lunch on the outside patio of the dining area. After lunch all that remained was to weigh the bags and to catch up on some rest. Some chose to walk the garden-like grounds of the hotel, checking out the Dik Dik (smallest of the antelope family) population and the vervet monkey troupe that came to visit. We didn’t get a view of Kilimanjaro itself today although our morning overcast eventually broke up... things stayed murky to the north and east. We enjoyed dinner on the patio to finish the day and turned in by around 9 to get plenty of rest for the start of our adventure. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Congratulations to the team who was the highest people in North America today, assuming no one is climbing Denali or Logan. We had a restless night of sleep listening to the winds howling but by the time we awoke at 11:30pm they were just gusting. The team did a great job taking care of themselves and climbing well. One of our favorite parts of this trip has been the people in this group. The other night at dinner we came up with trail names for everyone. Breezy is an up for anything Appalachian Trail through hiker. Flama Blanc is a high energy positive Greek restaurant owner. Payday is a world traveler and mountaineer who makes everyone feel comfortable. Lorenzo is the backbone of our team, supporting us with snacks and good advice. Posh is a calculated climber who can take on whatever he wants. Major Tom is a photographer who captures the beauty in the land and smiles on our faces. St. Ronaldo is a fun loving athlete who makes a ten-hour day look easy. Data is a brilliant and curious life long learner who always has a great story to share. Endurance is the calm and confident leader who everyone wants to follow for his perfect form. Baklava is a smart trail chatter who is great for trail distractions. Then the guides: Muel has the strength of a lion and the courage of a bear, Doc is a determined and amazing leader, and lastly me named Jefe, who has the pleasure of traveling and climbing with this great team! Thank you all. -Jefe

On The Map