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Denali Expedition: Smith and Team Carry above the Fixed Lines

Hello readers,

It was a cold morning. The coldest thus far. We packed our bags for our carry and then warmed up with some oatmeal and coffee. Putting in crampons is difficult when your fingers hurt and takes longer when you pause to warm them up before the next crampon. With time and cold fingers, we all suited up for our walk uphill.

It's a steep hill out of camp. Not much of a warmup, but we cruised up it and got to the fixed line. The fixed lines are quite steep and have blue ice underneath the snow. It's engaging climbing as we ascend the slope. It warmed up fast on our climb and we were back to base layers and sweat in no time. We cached our gear at the top of the fixed lines at 16,200'. It's great views from there of everything below us. It's a Crazy feeling sitting on the side of a big mountains with snowy mountains and peaks all around. Just gorgeous. After an hour or so sitting at 16200' we made Our way back to camp. It was a productive day, and we are ready for our sleeping bags and rest day tomorrow.

The rest will be productive for our bodies to gear up for our final push to high camp and the summit.

Goodnight, all,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Very excited about your progress!  You are nailing it!  Be safe, have fun and take lots of pics!  You are a bunch of bad asses!!!!!!♥️♥️

Posted by: Carol Bradley on 6/16/2024 at 8:26 pm

That is So Awesome Hannah!!! All the BEST to you and your team!!!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/16/2024 at 3:11 am


Denali Expedition: Champion and Team Embrace Blue Skies on the Kahiltna

May 17, 2024 11:22PM PT

First mountain day in the books. After a pretty grim weather forecast, we had planned to sleep in a bit and have a later breakfast. To our surprise, K2 Aviation called us at 7:30 AM to tell us the weather looked great and to make our way over to the hangar.

By 9 AM, we had changed into our mountain boots and loaded into the plane. After a beautiful flight, we landed at basecamp - unloaded, organized, and rigged up the sleds, buried a basecamp cache for our return, and made our way out onto the lower Kahiltna.

It was a long heavy day - the one day of the trip we carry everything we brought.

Under blue skies, we rolled onto the base of the Ski Hill, built camp, and settled in.

We had a dinner of mac and cheese with bacon and got gear ready to cache tomorrow.

Hoping for another beautiful day, but just glad to be moving.

Check in tomorrow!

RMI Guides Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thank you for the updates! You guys are all doing great! Sending you well wishes for a safe climb!

Posted by: Abby Roberts on 5/19/2024 at 9:21 am

Great start. Keep the good weather coming and climb safe

Posted by: Doc Peters on 5/18/2024 at 5:28 pm


Peru Seminar: Young & Team Continue Acclimatization Process

Greetings, A beautiful rain-free day was finally had here in the Cordillera Blanca. The sun came out and stayed out today, which was perfect for an acclimatization day here at Base Camp at 14,200’. We got up and attempted early this morning to take a quick walk up to the Tocllacoccha overlook (Lake Toclla) to admire the beautiful glaciers pouring off of Tocllaraju into the sparkling bluish green lake below. It stressed our bodies just enough and took us to 15,300’ as we continue our acclimatization process. The afternoon was quite chill, as we took some siestas, and reviewed all of our knots and hitches for our climbs ahead. On top of all our fun today, the culinary adventure continued. Today, our cook, Emilio, prepared for us Cornish hen eggs and hash browns, potatoes, green beans and avocado salads, popcorn, beef and rice, chickpea soup, and quinoa pudding. All in one delicious day of eats. We’re living so large with our food up here that people down in town would be jealous. Tomorrow, our process continues as we hope to head to 16,200’, to the toe of the Ishinca Glacier to do some more acclimatizing and and training. We’ll let you know how the views are! Until then, good night! RMI Guide Robby Young and Team ‘Well Fed’
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Never tasted cornish hen eggs, meals sound like a gourmet restaurant not prepared on a mountain. Trey, I know you are enjoying your adventure.

Posted by: Phyllis Craig on 7/19/2019 at 12:41 pm

Hope the weather holds. Food sounds delish! Hey Trey!

Posted by: Bridget on 7/19/2019 at 6:57 am


Alpamayo: Elias and Team Reach Base Camp

Hello from Alpamayo Base Camp. We finished our approach to the mountain on an almost rainy day, but the clouds decided to respect us, as now, right before dinner, skies are open and we're enjoying a nice evening. Alpamayo, Quiraraju, Paron, Artesonraju... only a few of these "Andean Giants" that we're able to contemplate from our tents. We're about to enjoy another dinner from our cook Emilio; vegetable soup from his very own garden as first course, and it seems that grilled fresh trout with natural mashed potato and rice with cilantro are on the menu... Yep, living large here! More to come tomorrow. Cheers, RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Rock on team.  Sounds like everyone is doing well.  Can’t wait to see you slay the good stuff that is coming up.  Living vicariously through you and liking it.

Art Muir

Posted by: Art Muir on 6/27/2018 at 5:58 pm

By the way, Machu Picchu was glorious.We need to come back for Inca trail!

Posted by: Sanche&Jimbo; on 6/26/2018 at 7:14 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Summit!

Saturday, June 9, 2018 1:04 AM The couple weeks of hauling massive loads, sitting through snow storms, sunburns, and eating way too much bacon culminated in that fleeting joy of standing on the summit of Denali this afternoon! Our forecasts have been a bit vague, and sometimes less than confidence inspiring, but we woke up this morning to stellar conditions. It was clear, calm as a koala with a full belly of eucalyptus, and the sun promised to warm things from the forecasted overnight temp of -25. We made our way across the autobahn, glad to see the sun part way across. We ticked off the stretches: zebra rocks, arch deacons tower, the football field, pig hill, and the iconic summit ridge. After 8.5 hours of climbing, we were standing on the summit! It was a warm, beautiful day, with an intense sky of clouds that had built at all levels, making surrounding Alaska incredibly dramatic. After our photos and some time, it was time to head home. We are safely back in camp working on a late dinner. Tomorrow we hope to descend to the land of oxygen and warmer temps, hopefully 11,000' or 7600' camp. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and Team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go Henry and Caleb!  Awesome achievement.  Look forward to hearing details when you get back.

Posted by: Charles Platt on 6/11/2018 at 1:53 pm

MANY congratulations to the whole TEAM!! That’s an awesome effort by one and all - look forward to hearing details from Henry and Caleb and seeing lots of pictures. Thank you to the guides!!
Gran/Mom

Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 6/11/2018 at 1:30 pm


Aconcagua: Tucker & Team Check in from High Camp

Hello down there. Mark Tucker checking in from our High Camp on Aconcagua. Climbers are all tucked in and we are here hanging around our stoves for another bit of time. It's a challenge to get water, we are melting snow now, and it is chilly. Everyone is doing very, very, well. We came in looking strong and we're going to leave looking strong. (Lost call). RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to the team on a successful summit!

Posted by: Bob & Dottie on 1/28/2018 at 10:42 am

Wishing you all strength and great conditions on your trek toward the summit!

Posted by: Diane O'Connor on 1/28/2018 at 7:23 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Gearing up for Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 21, 2017 Good weather has finally hit Denali. The pressure is rising along with the temperatures....for now. We have had a good time at our 11k camp but it time to start moving up higher. Our plan is to do a carry up to 14,000 feet to cache some gear and then move up after a couple of days. If this weather holds, we will wake up early and hit the trail so we can get up to 14k before it gets too hot. Most people would think that being to hot would not be an issue while mountain climbing in Alaska, but it can be a real energy drain when the hot sun reflects off he snow like a solar oven. RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Glo, I can only imagine the view from your front porch has to be spectacular and awe-inspiring! You and your fellow climbers are in our thoughts and prayers, be safe, love you, dad

Posted by: Dave Roe on 6/24/2017 at 9:44 pm


Shishapangma: Team Rests at Base Camp

Hi! Not much to report today, folks. We took a rest day at Base Camp, in preparation of tomorrow's move. Packing food and gear, and rigging our ascension hardware took most of the morning. After another great lunch from our cooks, the afternoon was spent resting to tea and snacks, and even some ventured to the shower tent for the first time. The plan is to move to Depot Camp tomorrow morning and spend the night there, and then carry and move to Camp 1... the excitement is on!!! Stay tuned for our first news from the glacier, RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

GO JARRETT!  We’re all routing for you and the entire TEAM!

Posted by: kea capel on 9/15/2016 at 9:31 am

Hello, grettings from Spain!
Goog luck to al the team members!

Posted by: Martin de Andres on 9/15/2016 at 7:53 am


Mt.McKinley: Haugen & Team Cache Above the Fixed Lines

June 21, 2015 11:09pm PST Our alarms woke us up early to a beautifully clear, but cold, morning. We had breakfast and set out around 5 a.m. to cache some gear up higher on the mountain. The route above 14,000 camp becomes very steep and we use fixed lines the gain the West Buttress at 16,200'. When we got to the top of the fixed lines, our El Siete crew had not had enough. We decided to do some more climbing and bury our cache below a huge rock feature called Washburn's Thumb at 16,500 feet. Although we had to do some delicate passing of some upward teams on our way down, we made it back to camp in good time. We are taking a rest day tomorrow and then hopefully moving up to high camp the following day. That is all weather dependent of course! Mike Haugen and RMI Team 7 "El Siete"
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thanks for your postings, it’s impressing what you achieve up there in that beautiful mountains. And Erlend; it was so nice to speak with you this morning, made my day and the rest of the time you are away.I called your mother and Lorents, they were so glad to hear that everything is OK with you,Fredrik and the whole team. Robin came today,he’s in good mood and I think he will be staying for some time :)Wish you the best for the days that are coming,you are all fighters up there it seems :) Love you E. Hugs and kisses, Hilde

Posted by: Hilde Hestflått on 6/22/2015 at 2:04 pm

It is amazing that you had the strength to continue even past the expected drop zone. You are mountain warriors for sure! Talked to Doug last night and it was so good to hear from him!! We are very excited for his adventure up Denali.

Posted by: Chris on 6/22/2015 at 1:10 pm


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team in a Holding Pattern at 14,200’

May 24, 2015 - 3:35 pm PT Well, there is not much new to report today. We're still waiting out the weather here at 14,200 ft on Denali. Last night was windy and snowy, with gusts up to 52 mph here in camp. There is lots of deep drifted snow around camp, so even just walking around is an exercise in trail breaking. The winds have let up this afternoon and it is still snowing lightly. Moderate snowfall is expected tonight and tomorrow, and with any luck it will let up by midweek. We're all safe and comfortable, waiting for the weather to improve. When (if) it does, we'll have our work cut out for us; as a result of the new snow and wind loading, we'll be faced with trail breaking and evaluating the avalanche hazard of the steeper slopes above us. In the mean time, we're passing the time by reading books, chewing the fat, and the continual work of maintaining our camp's condition throughout the storm. We'll keep you up to date with any changes in our current holding pattern. RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Chris and team…thinking of you with the winds and snow…what a challenge your having.  Hope the weather eases soon so you can get to high camp.  Stay safe…so proud of you!

Posted by: Dave and Melissa on 5/25/2015 at 8:31 am

Hang in there guys!!  I’ll be on the mountain next week, be super to see you guys on your way down from tagging the summit!

Posted by: Pete on 5/25/2015 at 5:32 am

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