Thursday, July 2, 2015 - 3:15 pm PT
RMI Guide Mike King called the RMI Office from high camp at 17,200 ft on Mt. McKinley. The team spend a snowy and windy night at camp last night. Today they spent the day resting and drying their gear. The team has received the forecast for tomorrow and are hoping the weather will allow them to make a summit attempt. If the weather permits, they will be heading up hill.
We wish the team luck!
May 22, 2015 - 5:01 pm PT
Once again we find ourselves resting at the 14,200' camp on Denali's West Buttress. This is our second rest/acclimatization day at this camp, and we are feeling stronger each day. The weather is quite pleasant here in camp, with partly sunny skies and barely a breath of wind. The story is a bit different up higher on the mountain, where strong winds are streaming snow off of the West Buttress. Winds are forecast to increase and there is a high wind advisory for tomorrow and tomorrow night. That means we're planning to stay put in our comfortable and secure camp for the next couple of days while we wait for more reasonable weather in which to climb. We'll keep you updated...
RMI Guide Mike Walter & team
Quick note from RMI Guide Casey Grom on the Cayambe summit:
100% on top!
Once the team is back to camp, Casey will send photos and a dispatch.
Congratulations to the Team!
May 22, 2014 - 9:32 pm PT
Another pleasant day today, albeit cold and cloudy. This morning we went for a walk out of base camp toward the east ridge of Francis. We passed the large granite face of Francis, and through old icefall debris, up into a small cirque. Great views of Hunter and Base Camp from this small snowy cove. Once back at camp we rigged sleds and packed gear for our departure tomorrow up to Camp 1. The team is excited to venture out and experience another part of the Alaska range.
Until tomorrow...
RMI Guide Leon Davis & Team
Tim and I spent an easy day getting packed and fine tuning gear for Antarctica. This is something of an “extra” day, but it sure wouldn’t have been if either of us had missed a flight or lost a bag on the way to Punta Arenas. We walked the downtown streets, checking out the climbing stores. We walked in the wind along the shores of Magellan’s Straight. Ultimately we walked over to our outfitter’s office for a briefing on the flight and operations in Antarctica. It was good to connect with a few old friends while enjoying a cocktail and a PowerPoint. Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions -ALE has quite the program down here and we’re excited to see the bases deep within the Antarctic interior. Tomorrow is one more “slack” day of fiddling with gear and taking it easy.
Wonder of wonders, all ten climbers made it through to Tanzania and Kilimanjaro International Airport without missing flights or losing baggage. We’ve got the team assembled at the Arumeru River Lodge on the outskirts of Arusha...folks have eaten dinner and are now attempting to sleep away some of their jet lag. In the morning we’ll meet to get into the nuts and bolts of preparing for a Kilimanjaro climb.
Best Regards,
Dave Hahn
Greetings,
A beautiful rain-free day was finally had here in the Cordillera Blanca. The sun came out and stayed out today, which was perfect for an acclimatization day here at Base Camp at 14,200’. We got up and attempted early this morning to take a quick walk up to the Tocllacoccha overlook (Lake Toclla) to admire the beautiful glaciers pouring off of Tocllaraju into the sparkling bluish green lake below. It stressed our bodies just enough and took us to 15,300’ as we continue our acclimatization process. The afternoon was quite chill, as we took some siestas, and reviewed all of our knots and hitches for our climbs ahead.
On top of all our fun today, the culinary adventure continued. Today, our cook, Emilio, prepared for us Cornish hen eggs and hash browns, potatoes, green beans and avocado salads, popcorn, beef and rice, chickpea soup, and quinoa pudding. All in one delicious day of eats. We’re living so large with our food up here that people down in town would be jealous.
Tomorrow, our process continues as we hope to head to 16,200’, to the toe of the Ishinca Glacier to do some more acclimatizing and and training. We’ll let you know how the views are!
Until then, good night!
RMI Guide Robby Young and Team ‘Well Fed’
Hey, it's Billy. I'm checking in with Hannah and Rollo my two assistant guides here. We are on top of South America, 6962 meters, we are also up here with eight climbers and not a single puff of wind. We are the first crew on top today, and it's all smiles from our climbers. We got some happy but tired folks. So that's all I have to report for now. We'll check in when we're back at camp safe and sound.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls in from the Aconcagua summit!
Felicitaciones!!!! un abrazo enorme a ROLO, y a todo el equipo, buen regreso para todos!!!. Esperamos noticias..
Posted by: deby on 1/30/2017 at 6:40 am
Congratulations to Billy, Hannah, Rollo and the rest of the team. I bet that is a great experience to be on top with no wind. Enjoy the rest, when you get the chance.
As I wrapped up this trip, I couldn't help but remember the last time I visited Ixta. I was guiding a man in his 70's up. He was making the trip on his own. The extraordinary thing: he was on a lot of medication, he had a stint placed in his heart and a piece of his lung removed. His effort was impressive. We made four different expeditions, increasing the number of O2 bottles used during the ascent.
When I’m on climbs like the one I just finished, I’m also reminded of my mission to be an ambassador for the sport (and to keep people smiling even when they are hurting). I want people who join me, especially when it’s their first time climbing, to be challenged, but not to be destroyed because it’s too tough. The trip I just finished was with a great group—novices, but an enthusiastic crowd for sure. Everyone checked their egos at the airport when we landed and fully embraced the journey. We also developed a shared responsibility that bonds us on the climb and I think long after it’s over.
In the end, these climbs can change people’s perspective on life and things back home especially when the conditions are extreme. What happens on the mountain, combined with that disconnect from the daily grind, is essentially a recharging through depletion, fed by the beauty and simplicity of nature along the way, as well as the experiencing of different cultures. The once-in-a-lifetime climb is more than just the trip itself. It’s the memories, and the gratitude we develop for being healthy enough to experience something so amazing, yet take on something totally out of our comfort zone. It’s also stepping back when we are home taking nothing for granted.
I remind everyone I work with to remember it’s not about the summit, it’s the entire experience that matters—that’s what will fill their tanks months after they’ve unpacked and settled back into life. This group—they fully embraced that notion. They didn’t grab for just a slice on the mountain—they went for the entire pie. I love introducing newcomers with that kind of get-it-done attitude to this sport. These guys accepted the challenges that came with it and had a laugh doing so.
I’m fortunate to have great clients and work for a great company like RMI. Both remind me, and I hope by reading this reminds you (and my latest team!), to get out there and do something big every day. Mount Rainier is the perfect intro for climbing novices. It allows curious people to stop wondering and get out there and try something—and to share something really cool with family and friends. And remember that guy in his 70's? He didn’t tackle Mount Everest, but his conquest was equally butt-kicking. Ixta was his Everest. Any mountain, or challenge for that matter, can be an Everest-sized achievement.
Great job team!
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
This is one of the most beautiful pieces I have ever read about the philosophy of alpinism. Thank you Mark!
Posted by: Wolf Riehle on 8/20/2015 at 4:51 am
Mark did an unbelievable job getting us as far up Orizaba as we got, and then letting us make the call on whether we wanted to push for the summit late in the day. We opted not to for safety (and a few other reasons,) but Mark made sure to put the whole thing in context for us, and did so brilliantly. It’s never about the result, but about the climb.
We all slept very well after our successful summit climb yesterday and didn't get up until 8:30 this morning. After casual breakfast and coffee we slowly packed camp all the while looking up at the astounding route we had just climbed. It was impossible to ignore to smiles and feeling of accomplishment throughout the group. Eventually, by about 11:30 we hoisted heavy packs again and began our descent to Base Camp. Late in the afternoon we arrived to popcorn, chips and guacamole, and black corn juice (very tasty). We shuffled gear around a bit and then sat down for dinner and Peruvian wine! Truly a celebration.
Tomorrow we will finish packing duffel bags for the mules and choose our horses for our ride back to Cashapampa and then on to Huaraz. Though our trip here is almost over everyone is already talking about the next adventure.
Thanks for staying with us throughout this incredible trip.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo Team
Everyone, congratulations and enjoy the trip down. Please take pics of the farmboy on the horse. John, I hope your horse is nicer than your dad’s pony Tony. Love Tante
Posted by: Lisa Stenderup on 8/2/2015 at 2:37 pm
Glad to hear you all are safe and enjoyed your expedition. We cant wait to see you home!!! Love Angela, Liana, Avery, Bella and Buster Brown.
Doug! We are following your journey. Love from us! Mom n Lar
Posted by: Blythe on 7/3/2015 at 8:25 am
May the odds be ever in your favor team!
Doug - you know the drill…be safe, be great, move with grace.
~Belladonna
Posted by: Belladonna on 7/3/2015 at 3:29 am
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