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Denali Expedition: King & Team Move Up to 17,200’

Tuesday, June 18, 2019 - 8:55 PM PT Well, today we finally got out of 14 Camp. We had spent eight nights there and by an early season Denali trip that’s nothing but for us and the weather we have had, it felt like an eternity. Today proved to be no cooler temperature wise, HOT going up the fixed lines and once we gained the West Buttress proper it was some of the figurative coolest ridge walking this group has done. We didn’t get great views due to thin clouds but that’s ok, our entire trip has been good views. We don’t know what tomorrow holds and we could take a rest day if needed. High pressure is building over Denali and we are hopeful to summit tomorrow. Getting to 17 Camp can be a chore, but once you're there Camp must be built, 6 XGK stoves must be managed to make drinking water and hot water for meals. Camp is situated in a glacial depression and we can see the Autobahn which plagues climbers for the first two hours on summit day. This section gets its name from how fast you can get going if you fall and are not clipped into the running belays. Other than a long day, the Team is doing mostly well. It’s normal to not feel 100% here at 17,200’. None of us are living our best lives physiologically, but we are really excited to have a crack at 20,320’. Thanks for the support and blog comments, I’ve been saving them for an alternative pep talk tonight instead of my traditional surly high school gym coach style motivational speech. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go team go! We’re rooting for you Allan and today’s possible summit!!!

Posted by: Bryan C-G on 6/20/2019 at 12:59 pm

Is so amazing what you are doing!!! Keep up the good work!!!
Please send my regards to Boris! We miss him!

Posted by: Laurent Villa on 6/19/2019 at 5:59 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Reaches 12,500’

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Bryan Mazaika reached the Camp Comfort head-wall at 12,500' and were turned due to weather. Eric reported fresh snow on the route and 15 - 30 mph winds. The team is en route back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to Today's Teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great climb and fantastic views.
Brian, Ross and Abby were real professional guides on the mountain.

Next time I’ll definitely make sure I have more gas in my tank. 
I may have tapped out if we didn’t turn around due to weather, not sure, but each time the slope leveled out I seemed to get a second wind.

Trip was everything expected and then some.

Again, thanks to our guides for a safe trip.

P.S.  I still owe Wesley and Vicky a beer for borrowing the carabiner.

Vicky, if you have the pic you took of me and my son Wes, I’d love to receive that via email, along with other great shots you may have, like the sunrise in the clouds.

Great climbing with you all.

Fred
(the old guy)

 

Posted by: Fred Whiting on 6/11/2019 at 11:00 am

Safe travels on the way down!  Great job guys!

Posted by: Christina Rydbeck on 6/7/2019 at 11:25 am


Chile Ski: Reid & Team Nestled in at Llaima High Camp

Greetings from our camp on Llaima. We’re nicely nestled in at 7,000’ and the weather is beautiful. The winds are mellowing out and we’re looking forward to what is supposed to be a nice day tomorrow. Today was a fun adventure getting here including two hours of exciting four-wheel drive roads. This afternoon we went for a little scenic tour above camp and got some amazing views of the surrounding volcanoes. All is great with us... RMI Guide Tyler Reid
Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Experience Squirrely Weather

May 24, 2017 Well, the weather has changed, and not for the best. Wind and snow intensified this morning, so much so that we postponed our departure to retrieve our cache from 10,000' for a bit to make sure a big storm didn't move in. But the weather held off enough for us to bring our cache back to camp. Now we're set. This continually amazes me. When we got back I thought we all deserved a break, figuring an hour or two of tent time to rest up would be most welcome, 20-30 minutes later I hear most everyone out cutting blocks to beef up the walls we already had. Impressive! We're sitting pretty now, ready for anything. Should tomorrow's weather preclude a carry to cache at 13,500', that would be just fine. Everyone has been working so hard and so well that some tent time is probably in order. Even, I am looking forward to a rest day soon. And we're all looking forward to some better weather. Our peek at the mountains surrounding us last night just made us want more. Oh, and in case you were wondering what was on the menu today. Scrambled eggs, hash browns and bacon for breakfast. An assortment of Indian food, served on a bed of rice and chicken, followed by a nice pudding for dessert. Mmm. That's it from 11,200' camp. Good night. RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I did this route in Juky 1970 with Ray Genet. Good luck and be safe!

Posted by: William Dailey on 5/25/2017 at 5:18 pm

Keep up the good work, I am simply “blown away” by your accomplishment so far,  with love,
NeeNee, JT’s grandma

Posted by: carol m smith on 5/25/2017 at 12:36 pm


Kilimanjaro: Team Moves to High Camp

Hello from High Camp, Barafu, at 15,000' on Kilimanjaro - A left camp and made our way up hill to our High Camp. There are a few clouds above us but we aren't going to worry about that for now. We are settling in to camp and getting ourselves ready for summit day. The creature comforts provided by our great local outfitter The Dik Dik Lodge continues to help make life a bit more manageable. We will have an early dinner before checking our gear and re-packing one more time before we try to get a few hours of sleep before our summit attempt. Wind, clouds and cool temps is the report for now but it's not unusual to wake up to a clear, calm night for the climb. The team continues to do an awesome job and are all in great shape for the push tonight. Wish us luck! We will check in soon from our summit attempt! RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Nicole & the team have a successful & great adventure to the summit… All my thoughts are with you… Lou

Posted by: Lou Walter on 9/25/2016 at 8:54 am

Good luck team, go Jen!

Posted by: Allan on 9/24/2016 at 10:26 pm


Ecuador Volcanoes: Walter and Team at Cayambe Hut

We are up at the Cayambe climbers hut at around 15,300 ft. The weather is quite windy with alternating rain and snow showers. We're comfortable inside the hut. We have been going over knots and crevasse rescue systems. Hopefully the weather improves so we can head out on our summit bid with an early alpine start tonight. For now we're staying dry and warm inside the hut. We'll touch base again tomorrow to let you know how it goes. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Good luck guys especially Travis!!

Posted by: Kathy Williams on 6/21/2015 at 2:13 pm


Mt. Kilimanjaro: Team Explores Lake Manyara National Park

Hello from Lake Manyara National Park. Today most of the team headed out for some game viewing while two of our members went directly to the hotel. One of them was feeling under the weather. The rest of us have been on the road, looking for animals, at Lake Manyara. It feels great to be toasty and warm after being cold on Kilimanjaro. Most everyone has legs that are still a little tired from the climb so it's also a treat to ride in the safari vehicle. Tonight we'll overnight at the beautiful Plantation Lodge and tomorrow we head to the famous Ngorongoro crater. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

You all look great! I can’t wait to see the pics and hear the stories!

Posted by: Marcy on 8/26/2014 at 2:00 pm

Hey Roger Looking good and well rested. Happy hunting ( with a camera of course ) hope you get lots of great pictures. Cam

Posted by: Cam on 8/26/2014 at 9:55 am


Denali Expedition: Gorum and Team Create a Game Plan

At high camp, I had a dream about eating cheesy hash browns and eggs. This morning, that dream became a reality. We ate breakfast burritos, lunch burritos, and dinner burritos. We lived a life of luxury that was not possible at 17,000 feet. We also came up with a plan for the coming days.Tomorrow, half the group will walk out towards base camp and a flight towards Talkeetna. The rest of us will stay here at 14 just in case we have a summit window within the next few days. The forecast is calling for light winds this weekend, which has us hopeful. Regardless of what happens, we will certainly be eating more burritos. RMI Guide JM Gorum and Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Love to muh sunshine:)

Posted by: Jennifer Adams on 6/8/2019 at 10:01 pm

Food sounds tasty! I’m glad I won’t be in the tent with anyone who loaded on the beans. Lol!  Glad some of you are able to stay and try. Here’s to great weather. Nice photo of excellent ice cutting shelter. Go, go, go! But, step safe

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/8/2019 at 5:10 pm


Denali Expedition: Gorum & Team Take a Cache to 16,600’

Friday, May 31, 2019 7:58 PM PT Today we woke to relatively warm temperatures and light snow. As we looked up to the ridge of the West Buttress there didn’t appear to be any winds, although a bit of snow continued to fall. After a speedy breakfast we decided to make moves and head on up the mountain to cache gear somewhere above the fixed lines. Throughout the first few hours of the day we progressed apprehensively, wary of some menacing looking clouds that were lingering higher up on the mountain, but as we cruised up the fixed lines we were treated with warm temperatures and light winds. This enabled us to progress to 16,600 feet to dig a cache to store some gear to support ourselves for our summit bid. After a quick break we turned around and headed back down to 14 Camp where we are now relaxing and waiting to eat some dinner! Spirits are high and we are all looking forward to a rest day tomorrow. RMI Guide JT Schmitt
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

The updates and beautiful pictures are greatly appreciated!  Such a strong, amazing team!  Sending love and prayers!  Little 18 month old today Cutest says “auntie, mountain.”

Posted by: Jennifer Adams on 6/1/2019 at 1:39 pm

My god, you’re on top of the world!

Posted by: Jane Baxter on 6/1/2019 at 6:08 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Prepare to Move to High Camp

You do you muffin, you do you, is how I would describe today. We all enjoyed different activities to recharge our mind and body before we make our move uphill tomorrow. Two of us went scrambling on some not so quality rock, while others went up the rolling grass hills above Base Camp. Some enjoyed a relaxing day listening to music, reading books, making jewelry or braiding hair. This afternoon we all gathered to sort out a game plan for our climb on Sunday and for the handful of days after. We have to schedule for porters to come up and help us break down Base Camp before we head uphill. We are all rather excited for the coming days. We have been waiting for this moment to climb something for roughly two weeks, with one of those weeks spent at Base Camp. Tomorrow everyone will make their way to the High Camp at their leisure and settle in before we climb the next morning. Talk to you all at high camp, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Love you Glo!

Posted by: Michelle the Mom! on 11/2/2018 at 10:25 pm

Good luck and be safe. I love you all! And to Bridget… what can I say?

Posted by: Elías de Andrés Martos on 11/2/2018 at 8:52 am

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