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We are safely back at base camp after our entire team made the summit of our final peak of the trip, Pisco Oeste. Pisco was the third summit of the trip and the team is feeling accomplished with everyone making
summits on Ishinca and Urus as well. It was a great effort for the team and the camaraderie put forth to make it a successful trip for everyone was incredible.
While we're all smiles now, this morning was a different story. We woke to thick clouds and light snow falling on our 16,000' high camp. We shrugged it off and began our breakfast routine. By the time we were packed and ready to climb the snow had abated and the clouds showed signs if parting. An hour into the climb and we were staring at beautiful stars and moonlit mountain faces.
For a couple hours we had nothing but blue skies. Then as we neared the top, winds picked up and clouds began to build on the summit. We climbed on bundled up in puffy jackets. On top we were in and out of clouds, the weather parting for summit photos and glimpses of the famous peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo and Artesonraju.
It was an absolutely phenomenal climb and the way down was fast and smooth.
We're grateful for the help of our local guide William, our porters and our astonishing cook Helario, who makes masterpieces out of anything. It's been a great ride and I can't wait for my next opportunity to come back to the 'Blanca!
Cheers!
RMI Guide Zeb Blais
June 7, 2016 - 8:30 pm PT
We got up this morning to blue skies and a promising forecast. The minute the Big Orange Ball (aka Bob number 2) shined on camp we were outta there, moving uphill. However, we were forced to heavily slow our roll as huge swirling snow plumes were blowing off the 16 ridge and the upper mountain was completely sheeted in wind blown snow.
So we picnicked in one of the most beautiful spots in the world. The visibility was almost endless as we could see much of the range in sharp detail. We rested and snacked for over an hour before the winds started looking more and more friendly. Before we knew it, picnicking was over and as we were hopping onto the fixed lines.
After the practice a few days before the team zipped to the top and met up with our buried stashes! Then it was on! Climbing the 16 ridge is absolutely breathtaking, and we earned it today. The stiff wind never really let up, but it did nothing to dampen spirits as we looked down 2,500 feet to
14K camp and beyond.
Now that the ridge has been walked, and the tents pitched, the team looks to try and recover enough to make a stab at the summit in the morning! Let's just hope this wind blows itself out...
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
May 18, 2016 - 8:17 pm PT
Finally, all the checking and packing and repacking and a million other things that need to be done before we can fly on to the mountain are done. Cool weather kept the mosquitos at bay, and although it was overcast, word from up high on the mountain reported sunny skies.
We're hopeful for a good day tomorrow so we can start our trip. Planes were taking off and landing
on the mountain all day today, which is always a good sign.
With luck, tonight will be our last dinner in town for a while.
Talk with you soon.
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and Chris Ebeling
Yesterday was a big day for all of us up on
Chimborazo and thankfully the near perfect weather allowed us to stand on top! All in all our summit day took 13 some hours round trip including a deceptively difficult two-hour walk across the summit plateau from the Veintimilla summit to the barely higher Whymper summit. Riddled with deep trenches and fantastic snow mushrooms, what should have taken no more than an hour was a brutal two hour jaunt back and forth. We were fortunate enough to enjoy perfectly calm winds and clear skies on top, which made it not so bad. We even got to peep some views of Cotopaxi smoking in the distance before gearing up for our descent. We were greeted warmly back at the Estrella de Chimborazo where we ate a celebratory dinner and promptly crashed in their cozy beds. Right now we are on the bus headed back for Quito where we hope to have one last celebratory dinner as a team before at least half of us head for the airport to catch a red-eye flight home. All in all it was a quite an adventure and I'd like to thank the team for rolling with the punches the whole trip and hanging in there til the end. And I'd also like to thank the other guides, Chase, David, and Diego along with Victor, our driver, for all the help along the way.
Until next time...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Saturday, May 30th 2:45 am PDT
Hello all! We have our gear and groceries moved up to
10,000 feet. Life is good out on the glacier for our team. Today the high pressure over the area made for very hot conditions in the low altitudes so we delayed our departure until the heat subsided late this afternoon. We are doing our best to save energy and avoid getting cooked like lobsters from the sun.
Our plan worked great and after a number of hours working our way to the cache site, we quickly dug a large hole to store our gear until after we move the camp up to 11,000 feet. On our descent we enjoyed fabulous evening light while carrying our sled like a turtle shell strapped on our backs. Hot soup and a meal warmed our souls as we settle in for the night.
Tomorrow evening if the hot and blue-bird weather continues, we will try to move up to our second camp and gain some acclimatization over the next few days. Stay tuned and we'll have a report when more progress has been made!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
In the land of mountains, where peaks touch the sky,
We started the day, with a breakfast to try.
At Camp 1, the feast was a wondrous delight,
Eggs and bacon, oh my, a savory morning sight!
Ben burst into song, with a voice so bold,
He rapped like Eminem, stories untold!
We cheered and we clapped, with joy in our eyes,
What a way to start the day, with a musical surprise!
We packed up our gear, and set off with zest,
A 6-hour hike ahead, to Camp 2, we did our best.
Ten miles of trails, winding and steep,
But the scenery was breathtaking, our spirits did leap!
At last we arrived, at Camp 2's friendly door,
Where staff greeted us warmly, with treats galore!
Fruit and charcuterie, a mountain delight,
We savored each bite, in the warm sun's light.
But the best part of the day, the most wonderful sight,
Was seeing Aconcagua, our goal, shining so bright!
From afar, we gazed, with hearts full of cheer,
Our destination, so grand, drawing us near!
To William, Alina, and Julia, three silly little friends,
I hope you're having adventures that never end!
May your days be filled with laughter and glee,
And may your dreams be big, like the mountain we see!
RMI Climber James Loudin
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New Post Alerts:
Aconcagua Expedition January 31, 2025
Hello from Tanzania,
All is well here in Tanzania and most of the team arrived late in the evening yesterday after some very long flights. It was a short and uneventful ride to our Lodge that is nestled in between Arusha and Moshi and not so far from the base of Kilimanjaro.
We had a very early morning today (3:30am) as there were several of us wanting to see the college football playoff. And so we had our first official meeting at 8am where we did a round of introductions and then discussed the upcoming program for the days ahead. We also addressed all the gear, the packing and our overall game plan for the trip.
The team spent the remainder of the day getting our gear organized, taking naps and exploring the grounds of our beautiful lodge, which is incredibly peaceful and has monkeys running around keeping us entertained.
We have just wrapped up the evening with a delicious meal and plenty of friendly conversations. Everyone is doing well and excited to hit the trail tomorrow and get a little bit of exercise.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kili crew
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New Post Alerts:
Kilimanjaro Climb & Safari January 9, 2025
Hello everyone
We spent yesterday touring
Tarangire National Park which is home to many elephants, in fact, it has more per square kilometer than any place on earth and it didn’t disappoint.
There were plenty of other animals as usual, and we got close to a few big giraffe, which was amazing plus a leopard sighting too.
We ended our day at a remote and off grid camp within the National Park and surrounded by wildlife. The camp has screened in rooms that allow the night sounds of Africa in and also last night's big thunderstorm.
It's been a memorable experience for everyone and great friendships forged. But finally it's time to return home to our families.
Jambo from
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Safari crew!
Greetings from the Cotopaxi Refugio just shy of 16,000'! The team awoke this morning extremely well rested at Hacienda Guachala. "Slept like the dead" and "I fell asleep with my book in my hand" were common conversation points during breakfast. After getting our fill of fresh fruit for the day we loaded Viktor's trusty Hyundai bus and began our journey towards
Cotopaxi.
We took a pit stop at the San Luis Mall to stretch our legs, grab some snacks, and get our last taste of the thick air at 9,000'. Another hour and a half on the bus brought us to the gates of
Cotopaxi National Park. As always Viktor navigated the steep, rutted roads with ease and we soon found ourselves in the parking lot during the middle of an afternoon snow squall. As we quickly loaded our bags we enjoyed watching and listening to the joy of locals playing in the drifted snow of the parking lot. Snow rarely accumulates so low.
A 45-minute walk up switchbacks brought us to the newly remodeled Refugio. After stowing our gear and pleasantly noting the fleece sheets and pillow cases that each bed was made with we went outside for a short walk to check the route and see if we could catch some views with the lifting clouds. We were not disappointed and were treated to beautiful views of Cayambe and Antisana bathed in evening light and the mountain shadow of
Cotopaxi. Grinning from ear to ear the team returned to the Refugio for some R&R before dinner. Tomorrow will take us up to ~17,000' where we hope to get in some ice climbing and continue to sharpen our mountaineering skills. Thanks for tuning in!
RMI Guide Jordan Cargill
We awoke to a clear and chilly morning at the hut. The first half of the day provided views of the upper mountain and the summit of
Cayambe before some snow showers moved in. Today's goal was to climb another 1,000 feet to the base of the glacier to acclimatize and review some mountaineering skills. The steep climb up to our school site gave us a great preview of the beginning of our summit day. By the end of our school, the team was looking great and ready to climb Cayambe tomorrow. We are back at the hut resting and preparing our summit packs for the morning. Wish us clear conditions like we had this morning for our summit attempt!
RMI Guide Bryan Mazaika
On The Map
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Well Done to the entire team!
Posted by: Richard Bergey/Bonnie Bergey on 8/18/2016 at 5:38 pm
So glad the clouds parted for the team, blessed! The food sounds fantastic, lucky you are working off the calories. Safe journey back home, can’t wait to hear the stories.
Posted by: Debbie Z on 8/18/2016 at 5:14 pm
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