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Sitting down to our 7AM breakfast on the patio at Arumeru River Lodge, we had a great view of Kilimanjaro this morning. We loaded up the bus and rolled out of the lodge just a few minutes after 8 AM. Traffic was light on the main road and we made good time cruising through the farmland and small villages. Kilimanjaro got bigger and more magnificent as we turned from the highway and began walking uphill toward the 6,000 ft Machame Gate to the national park. As usual, it took a little time to get the team registered and the staffing sorted, but by 10:50, we set out walking in warm, and sunny conditions. Filibert, one of our local guide staff, set the slow and steady pace up through the tall and lush forest. Freddie, our chief guide, along with guides Venance and Happyson brought up the rear. Things clouded up as the day progressed, the high humidity and exertion had everybody sweating before too long. We saw blue monkeys in the trees, a few good birds, and even a small chameleon on the trail. The track itself was in good condition, not too muddy, which certainly helped. We came into Machame Camp (at 9,900 ft) in just over five hours. The Utah gang was delighted to find camp already built and ready for moving into. We met in the mess tent for afternoon tea and then finished the day a few hours later with one of chef Tosha’s excellent dinners. Everybody did great with this big day of work, but most were also plenty happy with turning in early for bed at 8 PM.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Posted by: Chase Nelson, JM Gorum, Chris Ebeling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
This is Chase and team checking in from the Sulphide Glacier! After three days of almost constant snowfall we finally enjoyed a bit of a break in the weather and even had a few hours of sun. About a foot of snow has fallen since our arrival but the training has continued as planned. Tomorrow we're going to venture higher up towards the pyramid and see if conditions are suitable for a summit attempt. We'll check in tomorrow afternoon!
RMI Guide Chase Nelson
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
It takes a bit to navigate the process of Russian airports: checking in, going to a different counter to pay for baggage, back to the first to retrieve boarding passes, and then on to security. That meant an early morning for us in order to catch a 9.40 flight to Mineralnye Vody. Our driver did his best Ricky Bobby impression on the way, which got us there with plenty of time to spare.
The wave of heat that hit as we disembarked was impressive. Kislovodsk is hot, and everyone, including our local guide, is anxious to escape to the relative comfort of the mountain. We got a bit of food shopping done this afternoon, double checked our gear, and are ready for the 4wd trip to base camp tomorrow morning. Our next contact should be from the mountain as we really get this climb underway!
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Mike Uchal
Best expedition ever Pete + crew…Safety and Summit amid fav weather…Waltero…Godspeed…Great book on Amazon “Mount Elbrus and Mount Kosciuszko” by me of course!
Posted by: Walter Glover on 8/4/2017 at 5:54 am
Praying for great weather, safety, and fun! “Tamp it to the max!”
Godspeed-
Posted by: Chase on 8/3/2017 at 9:45 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
With a pre-midnight alpine start from the Cayambe climbing hut, we woke to a starry sky and light winds; all systems were go. We had a quick breakfast, got geared up in the hut, and were walking by midnight. The weather was perfect for our climb and so were the mountain conditions, with firm (but not icy) snow for efficient cramponing. The climbing was varied: rock scrambling to reach the glacier, gentle glaciated slopes, a steep 200’, 45° headwall, and a narrow summit ridge. Six hours later we were all standing on top of Cayambe, at 19,000’ that lies directly on the equator. We enjoyed great views of Cotopaxi, the Ilinizas and Antisana to the south, and Cotacachi and Imbabura to the north. We spent a half hour on top, high-fiving, hugging, taking pictures, and even singing.
As we descended, winds increased and clouds were rising from the rain forest to the east. Soon a nasty-looking lenticular cloud formed over the summit. But our timing was perfect; we were well below this by now and smoothly descending back to the climbing hut. In less than an hour after arriving at the hut we were packed up and loaded into four-wheel drive vehicles and headed back to the hacienda Guachala for hot showers, delicious food, and comfy beds. Tomorrow we’ll head back to Quito for the night.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah McGowan, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
June 19, 2017 9:06 pm PST
Conditions were perfect at 1 AM for beginning an early morning transit of the Kahiltna Glacier. Skies were clear and the snow surface was beginning to freeze good and hard -just the way we like it for traveling crevassed terrain with heavy packs and sleds. We got stoves going and began to dress for success. The team set out at precisely 4AM and marched down the SE Fork of the Kahiltna to its junction with the main glacier -we banged a right turn and started our climb. The glacier didn't have much good snow from the winter, so plenty of crevasses were exposed and needed crossing, but with the good freeze, the crossings were easy and uneventful. We saw ample evidence of climbers having come through in soggy, hot and heavy conditions, poking legs and bodies into the dark cold depths of the glacier. We took hourly rest breaks and accomplished our move in just under five hours total, pulling into 7800 ft just before 9. Then in calm sunshine, we set to work building camp. T
Tents went up and once all work was finished, we dove in for naps, escaping the ridiculously intense midday sun. By early evening it was tolerable outside once again and we met for dinner under the shelter of our dining tent. Forecasts for the day had called pretty definitively for new falling snow, but our reality was a pleasant summer day. We'll gladly take another day of this "storm".
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Hannah McGowan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'
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June 16, 2016 - 4:16 P.M. PDT
And we're off! RMI Denali Expedition #7 (known in some circles as "el Siete") landed on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier this morning around 10 o'clock to clear skies and breathtaking views of the Alaska Range. The team took advantage of the clear weather by leisurely setting up camp, and then brushing up on anchor building, crevasse rescue, and sled rigging skills. Our next move is to make some dinner and head to bed early in anticipation of our move to Ski Hill camp while the snow is at its most frozen state- is 3 A.M. early morning or late at night? We'll let you know... For now, excitement is high, stress is low, views are stunning.
Love to all friends, family, and Joe Horiskey,
RMI Guide Mike Haugen & gang
What an experience! The pictures are breathtaking, but probably don’t even compare to the real view! Cheers to all of you on your amazing journey!
Have fun Phil and everyone on the climb.
Use your core ;)
Posted by: Laura Andrews on 6/25/2016 at 4:06 am
Jon, A&D is will be monitoring your progress and living vicariously through your amazing adventure!!
Posted by: Lisa on 6/17/2016 at 6:10 pm
Today the gang got a good old-fashioned butt-kicking at the hands of Nevado Cayambe. We woke in the middle of the night to strong winds but clear skies and decided to rig up and take a shot at climbing. The walls of the refugio were rattling in the wind and I remember thinking to myself that we were gonna probably have a pretty tough go out there. Shockingly, as we left the hut and climbed around the rock buttress above we found ourselves moving through the terrain in much more manageable conditions. The wind backed off and we were looking up at a starry night and the city lights below. We made our way up a couple of steeper rock steps and onto the dry glacier in short time and continued up the hill. Chase and I both remember thinking to ourselves, "we just might pull this off..." But alas, the wind was to return as we climbed higher but this time with some serious moisture. The wet came in pulses and we were able to deal with it until we reached a bench in the glacier at just over 17,000' where we all came into the break and looked each other over. The truth was undeniable, we were all soaked and the conditions were worsening. Sadly, we knew we had to turn around before the summit and weave our way back through a very crevassed and broken glacier. Despite not making the summit we still got to climb through some incredible terrain and glacial formations and everybody agreed that we were getting a full value experience. Some hours later, when we finally stumbled back to the hut, the storm has significantly increased its ferocity and was plastering us with sheets of sideways rain and strong gusts. We napped for a little bit and loaded our soaking gear into 4x4's and headed back to Babylon. Tonight we're drying out and enjoying a real bed at Hacienda Guachalá. Built in the late 1500's, it's the oldest hacienda in Ecuador with tons of crazy history from famous visitors (including Edward Whymper, the first to climb many of these peaks in the 1700's) to pre Inca constructions, and even a crypt beneath the chapel. Tomorrow we're headed for Antisana, praying for good weather, now, I'm headed for dinner!
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
Posted by: Hannah Smith
Categories: Guide News
Namaste Everyone!
Today is a day that will never be forgotten. It started early in the morning as we made our way to the airport. We boarded the plane for a 50 minute flight. The views were amazing! The Himalayas are so magnificent...it sparks a desire to climb out there. Upon arrival to Dhangadi we were greeted by the Chaliya dance. A dance blessing the Burga Goddess, to give us all power. We then engaged in three more welcoming celebrations, one by the Minister of Tourism, another by the Prime Minister of the region, and the final one by the town of Khodpe where we are spending the night. With music, dancing, scarves, lays, and red smears on our foreheads it was an experience like no other. After many hours on the windy mountain roads with the drivers laying down their horns to signal we are coming around the blind turn we are ready to get some sleep before another day of driving and celebrating tomorrow.
Goodnight everyone,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Congratulations on your progress and who knew it would be so much fun. Onward and upward you go in your amazing adventure.
Posted by: Michelle (Glo's mom) on 10/19/2018 at 10:58 am
RMI Guide Jess Matthews and team reached the Mt. Baker summit and are safely back at camp. The team ascended and descended the Easton Glacier Route.
The Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Andy Bond reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Casey reported clear skies with very light winds and a fantastic climbing route. The team has started their descent and are en-route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
Big congrats to the team and Colin, Hunter , Russell and Brian !
Posted by: Tom Fraser on 7/27/2018 at 3:05 pm
Congratulations!! So excited that weather was good and you all made it! Beer waiting for you in Hawaii
Posted by: Gabi on 7/27/2018 at 10:40 am
Yea, Caspers!!! You got this. Fun to follow your treck. Looks like quite a different route than we took.
Posted by: Laurie on 2/2/2018 at 5:55 pm
Looking good there! Hello to Lynn and Joanna!! Excited to watch the progress of your trip! So jealous!
Posted by: Troy Christensen on 2/2/2018 at 7:59 am
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