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RMI Guide Eric Frank reported in from the summit of their first peak: Sahale Mountain. Sahale requires a strenuous glaciated climb up the Quien Sabe Glacier and a 300' scramble up a 4th class rock pyramid. Eric reported that the wind changed direction last night and the wildfire smoke rolled back over them; which made for tough, smoky climbing. However, the team is happy with their first successful summit and ready for more.

Thursday, July 5, 2018 10:25 PM PST Today was better weather than we expected -after a snowy and blowy night- it was crystal clear and calm at camp when the sun hit, there was a sea of clouds below. But the winds were blowing up on Denali Pass and the South Peak until early afternoon which discouraged us from giving it a go. We’ve got reason to believe that tomorrow -Friday- will be our day. We chalked up another 17,000' rest day and hope that the extra time up high has made us more ready for success. We’re definitely feeling a little more like our old selves now compared to when we first rolled into 17k. A short walk from camp to the big drop off and we can look down on the empty camp at 14,000'. The last groups of the season are here now and looking to take their shot tomorrow too. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The Team is currently relaxing next to a fireplace worthy of GOT in a unique ski lodge in Los Penitentes. There isn't any winter snow here, so the area serves as an outfitting station for climbers getting ready to head into the park. We spent the afternoon packing and sorting gear for the mules. We'll continue sport eating our way through Argentina this evening and have a casual start in the AM. Our trek to base camp is up the Vacas Valley, an arid high desert landscape filled with rocks, shrubs, mules and rich colored soil that resembles a Bob Ross painting. Thanks for following along! RMI Guide Mike King

We were up early to catch the mule shuttle across the Vacas River. We could have waded across but that would have been a painfully cold start to our day. When do you get to be a cowboy in Argentina anyway? It made for some great photos. It took us a bit over six hours of climbing in beautiful weather to arrive here at Aconcagua Base Camp. We are settled in. All of our gear is here and in good shape. It resembles the team, good shape that is. Another fine meal and a warm sleeping bag; it just doesn't get anymore basic or nice. All is well. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

We woke this morning to a snowy camp, after having a wintery mix start around dinner last night. Salkantay was out all day as we hiked through the snow covered trail to Incachiriaska Pass 16,300'. The Team did well despite the altitude and muddy terrain. We descended down a wide grassy valley and paused often to take in the scenery and soak in the sun after a cold and cloudy day yesterday. The Team is resting in Pampachuana camp located at 12,800' among a high rural farming community. Through the valley is an Incan canal that was constructed to straighten out the glacial stream that provides water to the farmers. Tomorrow we join the 'Inca Trail' and our horses will leave us as porters join the team for the remainder of the trip. RMI Guide Mike King

Hello, this is Eric Frank calling from Boston Basin in the North Cascades. Just wanted to let everyone know that the West Ridge of Forbidden team was back down in camp safe and sound. We had a full day of adventure today. We climbed the West Ridge to the summit. Everyone on the team made it, which was great. (transmission lost) RMI Guide Eric Frank

June 25, 2017 Our weather was just plain old "good" today. No winds, some high cloud and some low cloud, but no clouds that mattered. We were up at a leisurely 7:30. The sun came around about 9:30 (from behind the mountain) and we set out to retrieve our 13,500 ft cache at 10AM. It only took twenty easy minutes of downhill walking to reach it, but it was a full hour of climbing to get back up with loaded packs. So our workout was done by noon -the approach to the mountain is now complete with the team and the precious (and heavy) fuel and food all in place for the climb. In the afternoon, we reviewed techniques for climbing the "fixed rope" section between 15,000 and 16,000 ft. as well as working through methods for climbing along the exciting ridge to 17,200... our high camp. Dinner was relaxed and relatively comfortable in our dining facility. The team stood outside enjoying views and conversation right until the last warm rays quit as the sun ducked behind the West Buttress. We'll look at carrying up onto the buttress tomorrow. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Today was off to an early start! After a quick breakfast, we stretched our legs heading up glacier to the base of Radio Tower and beyond to the cirque at the base of the East ridge of Frances, where we chatted about glaciology, route planning and navigation. Menacing seracs and at times nearly white-out conditions made the teachings come to life. After heading back to camp and a quick break, we learned and reviewed basic knots and hitches to get us ready for session 1 of basic crevasse rescue. We put to use our anchor building tactics from the previous day and spent the afternoon doing basic rescue drills. Cozying up to burritos was a great end to a long day. RMI Guide Jessie Poquerusse & team

Our climb finished with an easy and pleasant trip from 10,000 ft to the 6,000 ft trailhead this morning. We all counted ourselves lucky to have blue skies over our breakfast table... One more lucky day, it seemed. After breakfast, the entire staff gathered and sang the Kilimanjaro Jambo song -with feeling and gusto. The team members then shook hands with each and every man, expressing gratitude for a bunch of jobs well-done. We knew that our "luck" and success on the climb... and our enjoyment of it, came in large part from the efforts of these dedicated professionals. We set out down the heavily forested trail at about 8:30 AM and had made it to the Mweka Gate -the finish, in under three hours. After signing out of the National Park, we crowded into our great expedition truck/bus and started down through the banana and coffee plantations. We cruised through the outskirts of Moshi and then hit the road west toward Arusha. Mid-drive, the staff had arranged a picnic for us at a roadside eatery. We relaxed and sipped a few cool beverages with our lunch and then clambered back into the big green adventure vehicle. Our homecoming at the Dik Dik Hotel was the occasion for a few more great songs and dances and then we headed off to our rooms for a relaxed afternoon of showers, gear sorting, napping and catching up with communications. The evening was time for a fine victory dinner. We ate, we celebrated, we talked about the upcoming safari. We'll set out first thing tomorrow for a few more Tanzanian national parks. Our only trouble is that we are getting very spoiled... our expectations are sky high. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Mt. Baker did not fail to impress our small team this week! We set out from Glacier, WA to make an attempt on Mt. Baker's mighty North Ridge. Our approach put us at camp at the toe of the Coleman Glacier where we reviewed relevant climbing techniques and relaxed ourselves to sleep. We awoke under the full moon and set out at dusk to begin the climb. A few hours of casual glacier travel found us at the base of the route. The forbidding clouds to the west stood down and we began our ascent. We gained the ridge and with some steep snow climbing and we were in business! Soon it was time to get into the meat of the route, the ice pitches. Under the snice (snow+ice) there was quality ice, so it didn't take too much excavation to find good placements for our tools. As we topped out the ice pitches the clouds returned and soon we were relying on instruments to find the top. After a bit of thought-provoking route finding we navigated the jumbled glacier that guards the cumbre (summit) and celebrated efficiently before descending the Coleman route back to camp. It was a great day with good company - all you can ask for in the mountains! Standing on top doesn't hurt either. RMI Guide Jake Beren