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Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Take 2 at High Camp

Things looked pretty perfect this morning, so we loaded up our packs and started climbing. Lenz Rocks is a somewhat exposed camp and there aren't so many tent sites, so we were happy to be some of the first out of camp with full-looking backpacks intending to stay up high tonight. The breeze mainly kept things pleasantly cool as we worked our way up the glacier, intensifying only just as we reached Lenz. It took the whole team working together to keep a handle on tents as we got them set up. Now, we are comfortably moved into our abodes, resting for the summit push tomorrow. The winds are supposed to continue to diminish overnight, so things are shaping up nicely. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team "can we leave this break yet?"

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: August 17th Teams on Top!

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Steve Gately and Ben Liken reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7 am today. Steve reported light winds, warm temperatures, and the smoke haze is starting to clear. The team spent about an hour on the summit enjoying the views before starting their descent. Congratulations to today's team!
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Looks like the Alabama gang had success, congrats

Posted by: Don Baggett on 8/17/2018 at 12:43 pm

Way to go Mike and team
Good luck on the descent.

Posted by: Angela on 8/17/2018 at 9:12 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb led by Champion Reach Summit

The Four Day Climb July 30 - 2 August reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. RMI Guide Nikki Champion led the team reported cold and windy conditions with a good route.  The team spent some time in the crater before starting their descent to Camp Muir.  Once back at Camp they will take a short break before continuing the remaining 4,500' to Paradise.

Nice work today team!

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Torres Del Paine: King and Team Hike to Lago Dickson

Today we got started around 8:30 after a light breakfast. We had a windy and rainy night but woke to some sunshine and a light breeze in camp. Our walk took us through rolling fields interrupted by dense thickets of brush and small stunted and twisted birch like trees. We followed the Paine River and eventually towards its headwaters at Lago Dickson which is created by the Dickson glacier.

We had clouds, wind, rain & sun, or some mix of the three for 12 miles. As we approached Lago Dickson, we got views of the glaciated peaks and valley glaciers that carved and continue to dominate this landscape.

The camp lies on a peninsula filled with dense trees and a large field. We ducked into the Refugio as the rain intensified. The group is having a fun time, lots of laughing and a few sore feet.

Tomorrow we head for Los Perros camp. Getting a message out from Perros can be difficult as we are in a tight valley with large alpine peaks on each side. If you don’t hear from us, we’ll check in Friday once we reach Refugio Grey.

Thanks for following along,

RMI Guide Mike King and Team

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Kilimanjaro: Okita & 100% of Team Reach Summit

Hi! This is Brent Okita from Barranco Camp on Kilimanjaro, we just wanted to let folks know that we are back down from the summit. We reached the summit this morning under really nice conditions, and everyone just crushed the summit.  So, 100% of the team on the summit this morning, we are back at camp taking a little breather now, going to have some lunch and in an hour or so we are going to descend to our lower camp where we will be tonight, before heading back to the hotel tomorrow.

Congratulations to the whole team, they did really well today.


RMI Guide Brent Okita checks in after summit day on Kilimanjaro.

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Outstanding and congratulations!

Posted by: Scott Kenny on 7/25/2022 at 6:47 pm

Congratulations Norm, Nick, and the team!!!

Posted by: Linda Hill on 7/25/2022 at 8:44 am


Denali Expedition: Champion and Team Complete Back Carry

Monday, May 30, 2022 - 2:40 pm PT

Happy Memorial Day. After a few early mornings, we finally got to "sleep in". Waking up as the sun hit our tents, we were all drinking coffee and making breakfast burritos by 8:30 am. With clear skies above, and the cloud deck sitting right below 11 Camp we loaded up our empty packs and sleds to head downhill into the cloud to grab our cache. After a few short minutes downhill, we filled our packs and sleds back up with the gear and food we had left. The short uphill went by quickly compared to the last few days, and it felt good to shake out the legs before spending the rest of the day resting.

Tomorrow we begin this whole process again, with hopes to cache somewhere above Windy Corner. Until then we will be resting, napping and snacking at camp.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team

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Can you post the itinerary of the proposed climb? Love to envision where you all are, on the glacier. Be safe.

Posted by: Emigh Litch on 5/31/2022 at 1:06 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Waiting

It is the middle of May and the wait for fine weather on Mount Everest continues. Many climbers have started up the mountain so as to be in position should a break come in the next few days. A combination team of Sherpas from several expeditions is bound for the South Col now, hoping to be able to fix the ropes to the top when the wind dies. Our team is obviously hoping that the fixing effort succeeds and that those lining up for a first shot at the top get their shot. We aren't eager to be in that first run though. The weather window is forecasted to be short and the climbers are many, so we will instead take our chances on whatever more substantial break comes afterward. But the waiting is difficult. We are all healthy and feeling strong and we've now been down and resting for some time. We want to climb soon and it is difficult to hold back when others are going for it, but our judgment is that a little more patience is called for to fully accomplish our goals. We are each feeling the frustrations of being in a dead-end valley where the only real outlet is a journey through the Khumbu Icefall. It doesn't make much sense to go through that jumble simply for exercise and so we repeatedly backtrack down the trail toward Gorak Shep, taking on more sensible and vastly safer hiking goals like Kalapathar and Pumori Camp One. Our hope in doing these hikes is that our legs and lungs will be ready for the real thing and that daily hikes will keep our brains from fretting over the wait. It is sometimes a little difficult for us to remember that these 19,000 feet "hikes" in the midst of spectacular peaks and glaciers would be lifetime goals for many and that we are extremely lucky to be living in this place... But of course we are preoccupied with the top vertical mile or so of Mt. Everest right now. Winds are still raking the upper peaks and ridges and temperatures still seem a bit lower than normal for mid-May. Our walks and scrambles on the glacier adjacent to Basecamp reveal slightly less runoff than we'd consider normal. We choose to view this positively in that the Khumbu Icefall won't get up to its full speed while things remain remain cool. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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dave- i had the pleasure of you serving as my guide in sept 98 on an ascent of Rainier. I wish you good weather, health and most importantly- safety. Suerte amigo!

Posted by: david.mendel on 5/17/2012 at 11:58 am

Have you met my friend Moshi Wilfred from Tanzania yet? He’s probably the tallest guy on the mountain.
Best of health and well-being during your climb.

Posted by: Ellen on 5/17/2012 at 11:00 am


Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Explore Copacabana and Lake Titicaca

May 22, 2017 Hello from the shores of beautiful Lake Titicaca. This morning the team fought our way out of La Paz traffic, and made the stunning three hour drive to Copacabana, a small beach town nestled on the Peruvian/Bolivian border. We spent the afternoon learning about local history, dining on fresh caught trout and climbing a small nearby peak to gain an over look of the city. It started raining in the early evening, so we retreated to our lodge for a cozy dinner and an impromptu foosball tourney. We know it all sounds like fun and games, but our bodies are working hard acclimating right now. Starting the trip at over 12,000 feet means that we need to take the time to work into things. We are laying the groundwork to perform well in high ascents later in the trip. Wish us luck! RMI Guides Eric Frank, Caleb Ladue and the Bolivia crew
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Peru Seminar: Productive Rest Day For Davis and Team

July 15, 2022

We had a long restful night of sleep at base camp and took our time in the morning as we eased into bacon and eggs while enjoying many cups of coffee and tea. In the afternoon we found a good crag near camp where we could work on more rope skills and set up rappel stations. The backdrop of the Ishinca valley and Tocllaraju made for a nice classroom setting. A quick but delicious dinner and early to bed for another alpine start as we put in our bids of Urus Este tomorrow morning.

RMI Guide Alan Davis and team

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RMI Guide Robby Young Recaps Climbing The North Ridge of Forbidden Peak

When the summer climbing season is in full swing, RMI guides look for every opportunity to get into the mountains. RMI Guide Robby Young took advantage of a few days off from guiding recently to climb the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades. RMI Guide Robby Young navigating through the crevasses on the North Ridge of Forbidden. With the summer climbing season on Mt. Rainier in full swing, it has become a bit more difficult to sneak away and enjoy the classic alpine routes in the North Cascades. My climbing partner, Mike, recently came to town and I wanted him to experience the beauty of the North Cascade Alpine Rock. Given that it was Mike’s first time in the range, we instinctively set our sights on the classic pinnacle summit of Forbidden Peak. Climbing the North Ridge of Forbidden in the North Cascades. The beautifully long and committing North Ridge fit the bill for a true alpine adventure. Unlike its prestigious West Ridge neighbor, the north ridge route involved a more indirect approach, which required climbing up and over the Sharkfin Col and across the remote and broken Boston Glacier. It gave the route a more remote alpine feel. Once on the ridge proper, the climbing soon became uninterrupted and classic as we made “quick” work of the never-ending knife ridge and vertical gendarmes. As anticipated, the summit of Forbidden did not disappoint, gifting us with views of some neighboring North Cascade summits like Eldorado, Torment, Boston, Sahale, and Buckner. Our descent down the West Ridge and back into Boston Basin ended as often long North Cascade routes do, in the dark; leaving us exhausted but eagerly anticipating future adventures in this beautiful range. RMI Guide Robby Young and his climbing partner enjoy the knife edge ridge on Forbidden. ________ RMI Guide Robby Young leads climbs in Washington's Cascades and the Alaska Range. Robby is an an accomplished ski mountaineer, ski patroller and photographer.
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