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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Beren & Team Prepare for Ixta!

This morning we pulled stakes after a great night’s sleep in La Malintzi and made our way toward Ixta. Along the way we explored the little town of Amecameca, registered with the park and double checked our equipment for the climb. Tomorrow we will head uphill, establishing our high camp on Ixta. The team is doing great and after our afternoon walk, we plan to feast and do our best to duplicate last nights slumber in our new home at 13k! Tomorrow we ride... RMI Jake Beren and Team
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Aconcagua Expedition: Trek to Base Camp Begins

The mules are loaded and the team is ready to go. Today we start the adventure on Aconcagua with our approach up the Vacas valley. Clear skies, pleasant temps and a healthy team all sound like a great way to begin an expedition. Talk to ya'll from the mountain. RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Go Katie and Adam!  I hope you are having an amazing time!

Posted by: Jenna on 12/16/2011 at 5:04 pm

Great climb!! You are always heros in our eyes. Wish we could be with you (well, at least Rosston and I). Good luck on the balance of your trip. We look forward to your tales and pictures.
Love,
Steve, Judy & Rosston

Posted by: steve sherlock on 12/16/2011 at 11:44 am


Denali Expedition: High Winds Keep Van Deventer and Team from Moving to High Camp

Friday May 27, 2022 10:41pm PT

We had a forecast that was promising. It would be blowing up high in the morning but would diminish and that Saturday looked like a promising summit day. So we woke early, and saw what we expected - winds blasting up high but otherwise clear and blue. We are a quick breakfast, broke camp, and were walking before most other teams. As we climbed a huge plunge of snow left 17 and jetted far into the atmosphere. We were glancing at it wondering how quickly the winds really would die. We were sheltered from it and moved from cold in the shade to very warm in the sun as we climbed the fixed lines. As we needed the top, a full roar made itself heard - wind in the other side of the ridge. We stepped around and into it - maybe 15 mph, not enough to knock you around but COLD. It was going to be a full-fledged fight to keep faces unfrozen, so we made the quick decision to turn back and head for 14 Camp. There it was calm and warm.

Tomorrow looks nice and well regroup and rest from today. We have some hope that Sunday into the beginning of the week will give us a shot.

RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and Team

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We’re keeping track of all of you every day.  What an amazing experience, just seeing the beauty of your pictures and reading how aware and skillful you have to be with Nature especially the great Denali.  I hope you are learning a bit more about yourselves, too.  Much love and prayers for your
safety and well being.  Barbara/Mom

Posted by: Barbara J Corona on 5/29/2022 at 6:55 pm

Go team! Thanks for sharing your daily updates. I hope the weather calms down so that you can proceed. For the football fans amongst you, Real Madrid won the Champion’s league final yesterday against Liverpool, thanks to their amazing goalkeeper Courtois. Weather is amazing in Barcelona (this is for Albert).

Posted by: Imma on 5/28/2022 at 10:56 pm


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Beren & Team Summit Ixta!

Despite a very blustery morning, we had a great time climbing on Ixta today. We moved through the night under a waning gibbous moon and caught the sunrise from 17,000' above sea level! The team climbed well, making wise decisions, on a windy day to the cumbre (summit) of Ixta! Now we are relaxing in a hotel in Puebla, enjoying significantly less wind, before heading out to celebrate over dinner. Tomorrow we will rest and relax, getting ready for the big one -Pico de Orizaba on Friday. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb led by Champion Reach Summit

The Four Day Climb July 30 - 2 August reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. RMI Guide Nikki Champion led the team reported cold and windy conditions with a good route.  The team spent some time in the crater before starting their descent to Camp Muir.  Once back at Camp they will take a short break before continuing the remaining 4,500' to Paradise.

Nice work today team!

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Teams Reach Summit on Independence Day

The Five Day Climb July 1 - 5 went for the summit today led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Avery Parrinello.  The teams radioed from Columbia Crest a little after 7:30 am PT.  As of 8:15 they were starting their descent from the crater rim.  The teams will return to Camp Muir to rest and likely enjoy many firework displays from their vantage point this evening.  Tomorrow the teams will descend the remaining 4.5 miles to Paradise and celebrate their acheivements.

Congratulations team!

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RUTH GLACIER SEMINAR: Delaney & Team Fly onto Glacier

Hello all –

The team awoke to find improving weather and a newfound hopefulness to escape the ever-shrinking Talkeetna. After a walk to the local coffee shop the team began their standby at K2 Aviation where they waited for the green light for clear enough cloud cover to depart. At around 3pm, the signal was given and in a mad flurry the plane was loaded, and the expedition was a go! The team enjoyed a scenic flight into the freshly snow coated Alaska range with nearly clear and sunny skies. Once on the glacier, the team was quickly left alone to divide gear, load sleds, and embark down the valley. Deep snow made for slow travel as the team broke the trail through a few feet of fresh Alaskan powder. After a few hours, the team broke down for camp, probing a safe spot on the glacier and settling in. Tents were quickly pitched, and dinner was thrown together. The team enjoyed a clear and scenic backdrop before heading to bed.

All the best,

RMI Guides Mike Bennett, Jack Delaney and the Ruth crew!

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I saw clear skies in w app. How exciting! Just look at that snow! Gorgeous view. Early to bed. Stay warm and safe y’all. Enjoy

Posted by: Susan on 5/5/2023 at 9:45 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Waiting

It is the middle of May and the wait for fine weather on Mount Everest continues. Many climbers have started up the mountain so as to be in position should a break come in the next few days. A combination team of Sherpas from several expeditions is bound for the South Col now, hoping to be able to fix the ropes to the top when the wind dies. Our team is obviously hoping that the fixing effort succeeds and that those lining up for a first shot at the top get their shot. We aren't eager to be in that first run though. The weather window is forecasted to be short and the climbers are many, so we will instead take our chances on whatever more substantial break comes afterward. But the waiting is difficult. We are all healthy and feeling strong and we've now been down and resting for some time. We want to climb soon and it is difficult to hold back when others are going for it, but our judgment is that a little more patience is called for to fully accomplish our goals. We are each feeling the frustrations of being in a dead-end valley where the only real outlet is a journey through the Khumbu Icefall. It doesn't make much sense to go through that jumble simply for exercise and so we repeatedly backtrack down the trail toward Gorak Shep, taking on more sensible and vastly safer hiking goals like Kalapathar and Pumori Camp One. Our hope in doing these hikes is that our legs and lungs will be ready for the real thing and that daily hikes will keep our brains from fretting over the wait. It is sometimes a little difficult for us to remember that these 19,000 feet "hikes" in the midst of spectacular peaks and glaciers would be lifetime goals for many and that we are extremely lucky to be living in this place... But of course we are preoccupied with the top vertical mile or so of Mt. Everest right now. Winds are still raking the upper peaks and ridges and temperatures still seem a bit lower than normal for mid-May. Our walks and scrambles on the glacier adjacent to Basecamp reveal slightly less runoff than we'd consider normal. We choose to view this positively in that the Khumbu Icefall won't get up to its full speed while things remain remain cool. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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dave- i had the pleasure of you serving as my guide in sept 98 on an ascent of Rainier. I wish you good weather, health and most importantly- safety. Suerte amigo!

Posted by: david.mendel on 5/17/2012 at 11:58 am

Have you met my friend Moshi Wilfred from Tanzania yet? He’s probably the tallest guy on the mountain.
Best of health and well-being during your climb.

Posted by: Ellen on 5/17/2012 at 11:00 am


Torres Del Paine: King and Team Hike to Lago Dickson

Today we got started around 8:30 after a light breakfast. We had a windy and rainy night but woke to some sunshine and a light breeze in camp. Our walk took us through rolling fields interrupted by dense thickets of brush and small stunted and twisted birch like trees. We followed the Paine River and eventually towards its headwaters at Lago Dickson which is created by the Dickson glacier.

We had clouds, wind, rain & sun, or some mix of the three for 12 miles. As we approached Lago Dickson, we got views of the glaciated peaks and valley glaciers that carved and continue to dominate this landscape.

The camp lies on a peninsula filled with dense trees and a large field. We ducked into the Refugio as the rain intensified. The group is having a fun time, lots of laughing and a few sore feet.

Tomorrow we head for Los Perros camp. Getting a message out from Perros can be difficult as we are in a tight valley with large alpine peaks on each side. If you don’t hear from us, we’ll check in Friday once we reach Refugio Grey.

Thanks for following along,

RMI Guide Mike King and Team

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Denali Expedition: Bond & Team Enjoy Rest and Acclimatization Day at 14,000’

Saturday, June 25, 2022 - 11:14 pm PT

Today was the epitome of doing nothing, which are team excelled at.  It was a 10:30AM wake up, breakfast and a whole lot of lounging around as we adjust to the thin air at 14,000’.  The team is doing great and we are set to do a carry up the fixed lines tomorrow to 16,400’. As we go to bed we’re enjoying the views of Mt. Hunter and Foraker off in the distance.

Don’t worry the crew will be back tomorrow writing a more exciting dispatch.  We truly did excel at doing nothing today which is a great thing when it comes to climbing a big mountain!

RMI Guide Andy Bond

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