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Monday, July 4, 2022 - 1:50 a.m. PDT

Briefly…Because it is 12:38 a.m. at 17,200 ft…we did it! Fabulous climb to the top of North America. The day started out a little more windy than predicted, so we pushed our start back to 10:15 a.m., by which time thinks were looking more promising. We went back and forth all day between a little cool and a little hot. Luckily, when we hit the top at 6:30 p.m., it was calm and easy.  In fact we enjoyed it so much we spent 50 minutes on top! There was only one other team today and we will likely be some of the very last for the season. Beautiful views down into all the fascinating glaciers and valleys surrounding Denali. We picked our way carefully down, leaving the summit at 7:20 p.m. and arriving back at high camp at 11:00 p.m. Late night dinner and then crawling into sleeping bags for well earned rest. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn and team

Today was a crucial day for us to get in position for a summit bid. We carried a couple of days of food plus some personal gear to the bottom of Washburn's Thumb at 16,800'. This cache is an integral part of the strategy of climbing this mountain. Once in place, we can wait for a weather window to move up to camp at 17,000' and then summit. It now becomes a waiting game for us as we need a good forecast for a string of a few days. It was also a great day for us to practice our climbing skills because the real climbing on Denali starts above 14,000'. We got to practice using the fixed lines up to 16,200' to attain the West Buttress. From there, we were greeted with beautiful views and climbing on a thin, rocky ridge. The buttress is the namesake of the route, the reason people come up this way. It requires great attention, but affords amazing climbing and vistas. Everyone did a great job with these 2 new challenges. We even had some members of the group attain new personal high marks! Now, we're back at camp ready for some rest. We are playing the waiting game now, holding out and hoping the mountain will give us the weather window we need. But the forecast looks pretty good, and we're patient, stubborn, and well prepared. 14K Camp is a great place to get strong, and with a rest day tomorrow we definitely won't be getting out of sleeping bags until the sun hits us. Bringing back an old feature to the blog: the stoke meter is all the way up at a 9.5 right now! RMI Guide Maile Wade and the southside dwellers of 14K!

On The Map

Hello again Everyone,

It’s been a bit cloudy the last few days, but the team awoke to beautifully clear skies and views of Kilimanjaro looming above us.

We started our day with fresh fruits, eggs, porridge, and plenty of coffee, before setting off on our second day. The trail out of camp slowly ascends through the last remaining trees and makes its way along a rocky ridge that climbs up onto the Shira Plateau. We hiked a little more that 4 hours to reach our next camp arriving shortly before the clouds returned.

Everyone enjoyed the warmth of the sun and the views of the valleys below as we climbed steadily up Kilimanjaro.

We are currently relaxing in our camp enjoying good conversations and stories from team members.

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kili crew!

Saturday, June 25, 2022 - 11:14 pm PT

Today was the epitome of doing nothing, which are team excelled at.  It was a 10:30AM wake up, breakfast and a whole lot of lounging around as we adjust to the thin air at 14,000’.  The team is doing great and we are set to do a carry up the fixed lines tomorrow to 16,400’. As we go to bed we’re enjoying the views of Mt. Hunter and Foraker off in the distance.

Don’t worry the crew will be back tomorrow writing a more exciting dispatch.  We truly did excel at doing nothing today which is a great thing when it comes to climbing a big mountain!

RMI Guide Andy Bond

Saturday, Februdary 12, 2022 2:38 AM PT

We had a windy but dry night at Perros camp. After a quick breakfast we headed up towards John Gardner Pass at 4000’. While it’s not high in elevation the proximity to glaciers and large alpine peaks makes you feel much higher.

The trail winds up through the forest for a bit then begins the ascent over rocky ground. The wind was howling across the Grey glacier as we dropped down the other side of the pass. From one side you see a lush, forested valley and the other is made up of the glaciers that comprise the terminus of the Southern ice fields. This is when the difficulty sets in. The descent from the pass is harmless but once inside the trees the trail is a mess of poorly maintained and eroded steps, toe jamming declines and lots of roots and other obstacles that keep you focused only a few feet in front of you. Your reward for several hours of frustration is spectacular views of the glaciated valley and 3 suspension bridges that will bring out the inner Indiana Jones in anyone.

We got to Refugio Grey in good style but with sore feet and an insatiable thirst. After showers, many tubes of Chilean Pringles like chips, a loaf of bread we had dinner and continued the festivities.

Today we’ll take a day off from walking and enjoy an evening kayak tour on Lago Grey. There’s a lot of calved glacial ice damned near the Refugio which be great to see from water level.

Thanks for following along. 

RMI Guide Mike King & Team

Summit! Mt. Rainier received some new snow over the last week filling in the route but today's climb was able to persevere and make tracks to the top. We have had some teams as well as route workers chip away at it when weather and conditions warranted, which helped tremendously. Thank you to all of them and congratulations to today's summit climbers! RMI Guides Brent Okita & Josh McDowell

Despite a very blustery morning, we had a great time climbing on Ixta today. We moved through the night under a waning gibbous moon and caught the sunrise from 17,000' above sea level! The team climbed well, making wise decisions, on a windy day to the cumbre (summit) of Ixta! Now we are relaxing in a hotel in Puebla, enjoying significantly less wind, before heading out to celebrate over dinner. Tomorrow we will rest and relax, getting ready for the big one -Pico de Orizaba on Friday. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Things looked pretty perfect this morning, so we loaded up our packs and started climbing. Lenz Rocks is a somewhat exposed camp and there aren't so many tent sites, so we were happy to be some of the first out of camp with full-looking backpacks intending to stay up high tonight. The breeze mainly kept things pleasantly cool as we worked our way up the glacier, intensifying only just as we reached Lenz. It took the whole team working together to keep a handle on tents as we got them set up. Now, we are comfortably moved into our abodes, resting for the summit push tomorrow. The winds are supposed to continue to diminish overnight, so things are shaping up nicely. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team "can we leave this break yet?"

On The Map

Our Five Day Climb June 16 - 20 led by RMI Guides Walter Hailes and Taylor Bickford reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today.  The team delayed their departure from Camp Muir due to a few inches of new snow and cold temperatures overnight.  Once they reached Ingraham Flats, 11,200', on their ascent they were enjoying sunshine and no winds.  The cloud deck was below them as they continued their ascent.  The teams reached the summit and will return to Camp Muir for their second and final night on the mountain. Tomorrow, they will descend to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Steve Gately and Ben Liken reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7 am today. Steve reported light winds, warm temperatures, and the smoke haze is starting to clear. The team spent about an hour on the summit enjoying the views before starting their descent. Congratulations to today's team!