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Ecuador Seminar: Knoff & Team Acclimate on Rucu Pichincha

Buenos Dias Bloglandia,

I’m sure many of you out there have been gnawing on your steering wheels and passing up Instagram to check on today’s happenings of the Ecuador skills seminar. Well, wait no longer because the moment has arrived. 

Beginning with last nights dinner (food and drink report) the team all gathered around a big table in a classic Ecuadorian restaurant, sharing stories and laughs eventually waiting for Dan’s guinea pig to arrive, his main course.  After realizing it didn’t really taste like chicken, we all focused back into our potatoes and meat happy we didn’t follow the adventurous Dan’s lead. 

Come morning we all returned to the table for breakfast while preparing for our bus ride to the giant volcano just out of the city where our first team climb would take place.  

After 15 minutes of solid Quito traffic we arrived at the trailhead.  Except here, as it should be on all mountains, the trailhead is actually the ticket office to the cable car waiting to zip us up the first 3,000 feet so our legs won’t get too tired.  No one botched getting into the moving car so we were off to a good start.  

With swirling clouds and occasional views of the city thousands of feet below, we all made quick and steady progress up to the 14,000 foot mark.  Soon afterwards my GPS began to rock a lady Gaga song as we broke the 15,000 foot barrier, marking the altitude PR for half the team.  Thirty minutes later we were all giving high 5’s on the summit of our first real mountain.   Pichincha Rucu, 15,300 feet!

The descent was uneventful except for a hummingbird which almost flew full speed into my face but crisis averted due to my lightning reflexes.  Maybe that’s exaggerated.  

Anyhoo, the team did great and gets the green light from both Hannah and me to climb again tomorrow.  I expect the same results barring anything loco!!

If Yellowstone wasn’t enough, give Ozark a try.  It will get you through until tomorrow.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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I remember the ride. I got sea sick. It sure saved on the legs.

Posted by: JOHN H NEWLAND on 2/11/2022 at 7:18 am


Aconcagua: Scott & Team Rest at Camp 2

The itinerary of this Aconcagua climb has been anything but ordinary. The weather saw to that ever since we first tried to move to Camp 1 and promptly had to do an about-face back to Basecamp. Since that day, the guides have had to stay on their toes, rearranging, pivoting, and scraping together a plan that would give us the best shot for the summit. Well, this group's ability to adapt to the changing circumstances on a moments notice may just payoff. Today was originally our day to summit, but the wind had other ideas. So now we are once again resting, eating, and acclimatizing at Camp 2. However, this means that tonight is our night. The last night in fact! The wind and temperatures look ideal for a successful summit attempt. But don’t get excited for us just yet, having had to push the summit day back as far as possible to improve our chances with the weather means tomorrow will be a monster of a day. We will launch our summit attempt from Camp 2 instead of high camp, a move not possible with any other group I’ve climbed this mountain with. If we are successful and make it to the top, we then must head back down to Camp 2, pick up the gear the porters didn’t carry down and continue downhill all the way back to Basecamp! A summit to Basecamp in a day itinerary is no small feat, but having seen how well prepared these climbers are, I firmly believe they can pull it of in good style. Everyone one of them trained hard and came prepared for a difficult climb. Tomorrow will be extremely hard, but if we can pull it off, it will make one hell of a story! Wish us luck!

RMI Guide Nick Scott

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Steve and team nothing but the most positive vibes and thoughts for tomorrow! Know how much you trained for this and your team too!!  Go Go.

Posted by: Paul and Susan Cambon on 1/23/2022 at 5:36 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Crampons On

This morning, feeling rested, refreshed and blessed by our Puja... We set out for a "hike" in the lower reaches of the Khumbu Icefall. Each of us felt excited to finally be geared up and clawing our way over minor ice obstacles, not to mention stepping over crevasses once again. Seems like we've been on a lot of pretty trails lately, but today it was good to be climbing, even if for just a warm up. We went up about an hour, the consensus was that we'd reached close to 18,000 ft, but we stopped just before the "popcorn" section of the Icefall where the risk ramps up a bit. Back down to camp we came, stopping off for a cyber break, of course, in a safe place where we were finding the all-important 3G signal out of Gorak Shep for our smartphones. Lunch was perfect as usual, but the afternoon weather had us mostly hiding in tents, reading and napping. We can hear big wind above and the sky is now fully clouded and turbulent. Best regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Mark, the market is responding well to your climb.  It might even surpass you.  May both entities, animate and inanimate continue their upward trend ! 

PS We watch the pictures carefully.  You are eating better than we are.

Posted by: Sally Stein on 4/10/2013 at 8:19 am


Denali Expedition: Bond & Team Learning and Living at 14,000ft Camp

Monday, June 27, 2022 - 10:55 pm PT

Today was our third full rest day of the trip and it was glorious! We began by sleeping in and trying very hard to harmonize the incredible snoring coming from our tents.

When the sun drenched our tents and we finally came out for the day, three of us surprised the rest of the team with neon wigs that I brought from the costume closet back in Baltimore. I wore the Orange ‘bob’, Matt rocked the highlighter yellow shoulder length look, and Mr. Hyde Carby stole the show with the flowing pink curls. The wigs brought lots of laughter and Andy was sure to sport the pink curls as the last RMI expedition of the season rolled into 14,000' Camp early this afternoon.

We continue taking each day as a learning opportunity and today we learned that the synch cords at the bottom of your jacket are incredibly handy when trying to use a clean mountain can in 0 degree weather.

We had a delicious rest day feast of more bagels and cream cheese, smoked salmon, and breakfast burritos. We learned our lesson from the last rest day and only ate 2 bagels and one breakfast burrito per person.

To stretch our legs and work out some anxiety about the high mountain above us, we took a stroll across 14,000' Camp to the ‘Edge of the World’, a 6,000’ sheer cliff that drops from 14,000' to the valley below. Grayson belayed us one by one to the edge and we got epic photos courtesy of our personal photographer and guide Ben. 

Back at camp, Andy convened a team meeting. After checking in to see how everyone was feeling, and double checking to make sure we were honestly feeling good, he gave us the good news. The weather on the high mountain for Tuesday and Wednesday is looking terrific and we are going to begin our summit push tomorrow!

We spent much of the afternoon preparing what we will carry up, and what we will cache here at 14 Camp. I’m also personally excited to be reunited with the hula hoop tomorrow when we pick up our cache at the top of the fixed lines. In case you are wondering, I do look like a turtle when the hoop is attached to my pack and I am very slowly moving up the mountain.

Now our job is to rest and prepare for the next 72 hours of intensity and focus as a team - we are feeling strong and are excited to support each other to accomplish our shared goal of summiting The Great One with 100% of our team!

RMI Climber Steve

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RMI Guide JJ Justman Notches his 200th Summit of Mt. Rainier!

RMI Guide JJ Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier on Wednesday, June 4th, 2013, marking his 200th summit of the mountain. JJ has been a mountain guide for eighteen years, leading climbers on climbs and expeditions around the world, from Mt. Rainier to Alaska to the Andes to the Himalaya, including Mt. Everest. "People often ask me how I can climb Rainier day in and day out year after year, if it ever gets old? And my answer is always the same. No," said Justman. "I climb Rainier to share the experience with first time climbers. I see the emotion on people's faces as they come down from the mountain as they say, "I can't believe I did that"! And now with 200 summits I have seen and heard that a lot from hundreds of people. And it never gets old. I look forward to sharing the unforgettable experience with many others as I climb towards 300!" Below is a compilation of photos from JJ's climbs over the years. We wish JJ a big congratulations and many more safe climbs to come! - The RMI Team Collection of JJ's Rainier Photos over the years
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YAY JJ! That’s awesome! I was on your rope with you when you completed your 175th in 2011, it was such a great time that I am coming to do it again next week.  You’re a kickass guide!  -Andy R

Posted by: Andy on 6/5/2013 at 3:55 pm

Wow JJ ... 200 summits.  What an accomplishment!  Congratulations!!!  Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/5/2013 at 10:20 am


Cotopaxi Express: Whittaker & Team Take Acclimatization Hike in the Illinizas

Sunday, January 6, 2019 - 7:30 pm PT Another day, another volcano! We left the hustle and bustle of Quito this morning and eased into the beautiful, lush countryside of Ecuador. After a short drive to the base of Illinizas we parked at 12,800' and powered up to the hut at 15,100’. Beautiful weather on the ascent, not so much on the descent. Right as we reached the hut clouds began to swallow us up and we tucked inside for snacks and some hot tea. Shortly after, a cold rain gave us some extra motivation to get moving and it chased us downhill back to the trailhead. We wound our way back down the narrow (and bumpy!) cobblestone road along small family farms and pastures full of cows, llamas, horses and the occasional rogue pig. We threw it into park on the other side of the valley at Hacienda El Porvenir where we are tucked in for the night drying our gear in front of a crackling wood stove. Perfect. Hoping for clear skies in the morning and a front row sunrise view of Cotopaxi with coffee in hand. Buenas noches! RMI Guides Peter Whittaker, Jess Matthews and Team
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Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Prepare for Summit Day

Wednesday, June 8, 2022 - 8:33 pm PT

With favorable weather for the next few days, we took the opportunity to rest without missing our weather window. We woke up to the sun, and ate a mellow breakfast of oatmeal and poptarts. The rest of the day was spent napping, and adjusting to our new High Camp. With good weather our plan is to climb tomorrow. The rest of the evening will be spent eating an early dinner, filling water bottles, and getting our beauty rest in.

Wish us luck, tomorrow should be the big day!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Woohoo! Good luck guys!

Posted by: Jerey Wilson on 6/9/2022 at 12:08 pm

Best of luck as you prepare to summit!!  Hoping for weather and elements to be in your favor :-) it’s been so fun following along on your journey

Posted by: M on 6/9/2022 at 11:49 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams on Top!

RMI Guide Dave Hahn radioed from the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning to let us know the Four Day Climb July 23 - 26 teams had reached the summit and were starting their descent.  Dave reported sunny skies and light winds and a perfect day.  The teams were beginning their descent from the crater rim around 7:20 am.  Once back at Camp Muir they will rest, re-hydrate, repack and continue their descent, another 4.5 miles and 4,500', to Paradise.

Nice work today team and congratulations!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go! What a accomplishment for your whole team!

Posted by: Pam Kilcullen on 7/26/2021 at 12:13 pm

Great work team!!!  Even though I had to make the tough decision to drop out yesterday, for both the sake of myself and the team, I feel having the opportunity of getting to know you and our shared experience greatly overshadows this fact. I wish all of you the best today and for the rest of time. You have earned an evening good food and drink this evening back in a place which is warmer, greener and with an enjoyably thick atmosphere.

Posted by: Dave Ozolin on 7/26/2021 at 9:49 am


Denali Expedition: Parrinello & Team Fly to Base Camp

Thursday, June 2, 2022 - 9:45 pm PT

We did it! We’re here! The Alaska Range! After a stressful day and half of packing we’ve finally arrived. We took off first thing in the morning to avoid a hot mushy landing strip. The flight was beautiful, cloudless and most importantly smooth. The views were spectacular and plane ride mostly silent as we looked on with awe at the majestic mountains wearing glaciers as hats. Once we landed at base camp we set to unloading our nearly 1,500lbs of gear. Then began the real fun, setting up camp. We dug caches, a kitchen, a dining room and 4 tent platforms. Then we erected our tents and got moved in. After that we did what smart mountaineers do best, lounged in our tents to avoid the heat and intense sun. Eventually it cooled down and we did a delightful burrito dinner. Now we’re laying down for an early (and short) night as we’ll be walking in the wee hours of the day in order to have firm snow and reasonable temps.

Spirits are high! Our elevation is low! And the team is excited to move up the mountain.

RMI Guides Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed and team

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Happy Birthday Rebecca! Love that you’re starting off the year in the most epic way! Amazed and impressed and always cheering for you. XOXOXOXOXOXO Kyla

Posted by: Kyla on 6/4/2022 at 8:27 am

Happy Birthday, Becs!  Hope you get someone to take a special picture of you “celebrating” on the mountain.  Love you!  ❤️M&D

Posted by: Peggy and Ed Baack on 6/4/2022 at 8:20 am


Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Spend Day in Ngorongoro Crater

We spent our day in a collapsed volcano.  Ngorongoro Crater didn’t disappoint.  It was a clear morning at our hotel but it was cold and there was still a little cloud hanging around the rim of the caldera (which is at around 10,000 ft).  We did an hour of the usual rough roads to get to the descent road into the crater.  Then we saw two of the “Big Five” species before we’d even made it to the floor of the crater.  There was a big bull elephant with enormous tusks and not too far away there was a sleeping male lion.  Before long we were seeing thousands of zebra, wildebeest, gazelles, Cape buffalo and warthogs.  There were tons of hippos.  The highlights were reckoned to be the Caracal we spied (a medium sized cat with big pointy ears… rarely seen in Ngorongoro) and the pack of hyenas ripping up a Cape Buffalo carcass.  After another great picnic lunch in the field, we went back up to the crater rim to visit a Maasai village.  We watched (and joined in) traditional dances.  We saw the men make fire and throw spears, then we got a tour of the homes within a protective brush enclosure. 

Then we had another 90 minutes of bouncing over dirt roads before we got back to the ultra comfortable Plantation Lodge for the evening. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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That sounds like an amazing day! Thank you for posting pics, too.

Posted by: Diana Lowe on 8/24/2022 at 3:38 pm

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