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RMI Guide Robby Young Recaps Climbing The North Ridge of Forbidden Peak

September 11, 2013

When the summer climbing season is in full swing, RMI guides look for every opportunity to get into the mountains. RMI Guide Robby Young took advantage of a few days off from guiding recently to climb the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades. RMI Guide Robby Young navigating through the crevasses on the North Ridge of Forbidden.

RMI Guide Robby Young navigating through the crevasses on the North Ridge of Forbidden.

With the summer climbing season on Mt. Rainier in full swing, it has become a bit more difficult to sneak away and enjoy the classic alpine routes in the North Cascades. My climbing partner, Mike, recently came to town and I wanted him to experience the beauty of the North Cascade Alpine Rock. Given that it was Mike’s first time in the range, we instinctively set our sights on the classic pinnacle summit of Forbidden Peak. Climbing the North Ridge of Forbidden in the North Cascades.

Climbing the North Ridge of Forbidden in the North Cascades.

The beautifully long and committing North Ridge fit the bill for a true alpine adventure. Unlike its prestigious West Ridge neighbor, the north ridge route involved a more indirect approach, which required climbing up and over the Sharkfin Col and across the remote and broken Boston Glacier. It gave the route a more remote alpine feel. Once on the ridge proper, the climbing soon became uninterrupted and classic as we made “quick” work of the never-ending knife ridge and vertical gendarmes. As anticipated, the summit of Forbidden did not disappoint, gifting us with views of some neighboring North Cascade summits like Eldorado, Torment, Boston, Sahale, and Buckner. Our descent down the West Ridge and back into Boston Basin ended as often long North Cascade routes do, in the dark; leaving us exhausted but eagerly anticipating future adventures in this beautiful range. RMI Guide Robby Young and his climbing partner enjoy the knife edge ridge on Forbidden.

RMI Guide Robby Young and his climbing partner enjoy the knife edge ridge on Forbidden.

________ RMI Guide Robby Young leads climbs in Washington's Cascades and the Alaska Range. Robby is an an accomplished ski mountaineer, ski patroller and photographer.

Mt. Everest Expedition: Final Rest Day at Base Camp

April 27, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Today is our third and final rest day before we head back up the Ice fall to begin our second rotation. If all goes as planned, this rotation will consist of spending one night at Camp 1 and then four nights at Camp 2 before returning back down to Base Camp. Our plan after that is then to rest for a couple of days, then to climb back up to Camp 1 and 2 and sleep as high as Camp 3 before returning back down. This would be our third rotation and the final rotation before our summit bid. Then we will rest for a week or so. If all goes well, we will make our summit push sometime in the latter part of May. Mentally and physically, this next month will be the hardest month of my life. I worry that I won't be physically strong enough to climb through all of these rotations, and that I might lose my focus. It's so mentally difficult climbing down when it took so much effort climbing up to that spot, but I do know that every time I do climb up to a point where I've been before I feel stronger and I can breathe easier. I also completely understand why we have to climb up and down for acclimatization purposes, but doing so has been a huge challenge. As difficult as it may seem, the first month of this trip has been one of the most extraordinary experiences of my life and I know this second month will be just as amazing. I've met some incredible people, and never in my life have I been more breath taken at the place that I'm in. Base Camp has begun feeling like home. I want to say hi to all my family and friends, and I want to thank everyone for the comments and support. Sara McGahan

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

SAAYYY!! i love you so much and im so proud of you!! All of us have been following you on the blog and i am so happy you are experiencing this because it sounds truly amazing! STAY STRONG AND KNOW THAT I THINK ABOUT YOU EVERDAY BABY.

Posted by: Margaret Walker on 5/1/2011 at 10:09 am

Sara, my thoughts and prayers are with you and your father! It is truly amazing and inspiring to me! Keep your spirits high and stay strong. When you are back Angela and i will have to hear all about this amazing adventure!!! xoxo Heather

Posted by: heather yager on 5/1/2011 at 5:24 am

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Melissa Arnot’s Ankle Recovers For Trip To Camp 2

April 23, 2009

Posted by: Melissa Arnot

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,530 ft.

It always amazes me how much of a temperature extreme you can experience in the mountains. The last few days have been really good for me, as I left Basecamp and made my way to Camp 2. At 5 a.m. this morning, I woke up at 21,000 ft. to the sound of wind whipping at the tent door and a light frost coating the inside of the tent from my nighttime breath. As I sluggishly pulled my boots on and fidgeted with the frozen ends of my crampon straps, I shivered a little and squinted out to the first morning light, hitting the glacier well below me. A cup of spiced cider, and a small internal battle about whether or not to leave my Igniter Jacket on (I shed it), and I was out the door, crampons communing with the ice in a way that makes me smile to hear. The crunching is like a secret language that the crampons speak to the ice in, and though I don't always understand it, it is something familiar and comfortable for me, a feeling of moving and being stable at the same time. This morning ended my first rotation to Camp 2, and I am finally feeling that the climbing is starting now. My preparations for this trip started so long ago, when Camp 2 was only a small glimmer in the future, and a memory from last season. Now it is fully upon us, and this season is forming its own voice each day. I am here this year with a different eye and a different attitude than what I had last year. I enjoy thinking back to my trip and all of the joys and learning that it provided me...but this year is shaping up to be quite different. About two weeks ago, on the first few days of our trek in, I twisted my ankle. Frustrated, I tried to remember that this expedition will last for months, and certainly there is time in there to heal. As the weeks have snuck up on us, I have been reminded that things don't heal so fast at 17,500 ft. My first morning walk out into the Icefall I turned back, the pain in my ankle causing me to wonder if I was doing more harm than what was needed at this early point in the trip. A few days rest were followed by another failed attempt to get to Camp 1, and a whole new round of frustration. I came down to Basecamp and went to the Himalayan Rescue Association Clinic for a professional opinion. I know I am stubborn, but as far as I can tell, there is no need to hurt myself to climb this mountain. The kind and professional doctors at the clinic did an exam, while I held my breath, and they hypothesized about the injuries...sprain, bone chip in my foot, and most surprisingly, a possible crack in my fibula. Fortunately, none of those injuries warrants a complete stop in activity. Little can be done up here, and as long as the pain is tolerable, I received the go-ahead to keep climbing. The boots that I am using are actually providing good support and, interestingly, the climbing downhill is the least painful and most stable. With this news, and a new humbled attitude, I finally made my way to Camp 1, a little slower than I would have liked, but without further harm to the ankle. Once I was in the tent at Camp 1, I took a deep breath and a grateful glance at the mountain surrounding me. A small smile captured my mind, as I looked at the ramen packages littering the tent. It is easy to forget about the ankle as I start to melt snow for my first of many packages of dehydrated, salted noodles. The tent is so hot in the midday, even at 19,800 ft., that I have to sit in the snow to keep cool. I laugh a little to myself as I think of what climbing means to me, and how silly this must look to anyone who hasn't been here. My day at camp is made up of eating noodles, sitting in the snow, and reading candy bar wrappers to see which ones are gluten-free (so maybe I can share with Dave Hahn, who is gluten-intolerant). I go to bed at 6 p.m. and then wake up twelve hours later to get to Camp 2. Peter, Ed and Jake are already at Camp 2, a few days ahead of me due to my change in plans. We spend a day there together, before they head down to Basecamp. I need one more day to acclimatize before rejoining them. My day spent alone at Camp 2 was a lot like the day at Camp 1, making piles of food that I have read the wrappers for and ones that still need to be investigated. The wind picked up in the afternoon, forcing the hot daytime temperatures to merge into a cold evening. I close my eyes in the tent, and wait for the alarm at 5 a.m. On my way down to Basecamp this morning, I passed by Dave, Seth and Erica, poking their heads out at Camp 1. The morning light is still well below them, but they are getting ready to go for a little walk. I poke my head into the tent and see the ramen packages, this time smiling because I don't have to eat them today. I continue my way to Basecamp, mostly in the shade of the mountains around me. The last 30 minutes, the sun wins the battle, and the temperature suddenly becomes unbearably warm. I stop to put on some sunscreen and take off a layer, happy to have only a few minutes left until I reach Basecamp and glad to have finished my first rotation.

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Unable to Climb Due to High Winds

June 8, 2022

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Jess Wedel, Nick Sinapius, Josh McDowell, Eric Frank, Brian Walters

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,080'

The Four Day Climb June 5 - 8 was unable to make their summit attempt. Strong winds overnight at Camp Muir kept the climbers safely inside the hut. RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Josh McDowell reported sustained winds of 50 mph with gusts in the 60's. The winds have decreased enough to allow the climbers to ascend above Camp Muir to check things out. After their walk, they will return to Camp Muir and then make their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing the climbers at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon.

Mt. Rainier: August 29th Summit!

August 29, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams August 26 - 29 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Mike Walter. Dave Hahn reported clear skies above and light winds with a cloud deck below at 9,000'. The teams were walking into the crater at 8:15 a.m. and will spend some time on top before starting their descent to Camp Muir and continuing to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later today. Congratulations to today's teams!

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Way to go Adrian and your team!!!

Posted by: Rick H. on 8/31/2012 at 10:36 pm

Brian if this is your team I hope you make it to the top of the mountain safely you are in my prayers.

Posted by: Wanda Manderson on 8/29/2012 at 7:08 pm

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Carstensz Pyramid: Team Readies for Summit Attempt

July 4, 2012

Posted by: Alex Van Steen, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Carstensz Pyramid

Elevation: 13,900'

Mark Tucker checking in from the Carstensz Pyramid Expedition. All is well. We had a great training day today. We climbed a portion of the route just trying to familiarize ourselves with the terrain and technique. Our team is doing very well. We were pleasantly surprised at the abilities of our group here. So, of course, it had to starting raining. We did start out in some clear weather but the spicket turned on and it is raining right now. We are going to take a look at the weather starting about midnight tonight. And at some point we’ll pull the trigger and give it our best shot. Safety is our number one priority but we are going to push it hard and hope that we get a chance to make the summit. We look forward to climbing tonight but for now, we have to get some rest. Thanks for checking in. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

RMI Guide Mark Tucker checks in from Carstensz Pyramid Base Camp.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mark, so jazzed to see you are still climbing mountains! Pat is still in college (Theatre) and Erin is a librarian in Md. I am in Louisiana. Say hello to your family for us.

Posted by: Jessie Kelly on 7/12/2012 at 1:38 pm

WISHING YOU ALL A HAPPY SUMMIT.

ALEX FROM THE CANARY ISLAND

Posted by: ALESSANDRO (ALEX) on 7/5/2012 at 7:53 am

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Aconcagua: Hailes, Delaney & Team Embark on an Acclimatization Hike

January 17, 2022

Posted by: Walter Hailes, Jack Delaney

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Monday, January 17, 2022

After a windy night with little sleep we awoke to a beautiful and sunny day. After a delicious breakfast we packed light packs to head up hill for an acclimatization hike. The wind lingered as we hiked and we remained bundled up even with the sun shining upon us. The air felt thin as we reached Aconcagua's Camp 1 at 5000m (16,000ft). After a quick lunch break the team was feeling good so we continued uphill for another hour to take full advantage of our day. Once we reached our high point we turned around and scooted downhill to a hearty meal of carne asado grilled by the porters. Tonight we hope to sleep like rocks.

RMI Guide Jack Delaney

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We are so glad the winds calmed so that you and the team were able to hike yesterday! We are so proud of you and we love following the blog and updating everyone on your progress! Go Team Aconcagua!

Posted by: Rahim's Cintas Family on 1/18/2022 at 6:29 am

We are living your adventure vicariously except we are not having the pleasure of your company, the weather, great meals etc. Pace yourselves, which I am sure you are doing and stay safe. All well at our end.
Hugs to you all

Posted by: Norman and Phyllis on 1/18/2022 at 4:31 am

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt and Team Cache Gear at 17,000’

May 29, 2022

Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 29 12:04am PT

This morning we woke up with the goal of caching gear and food as close to 17 camp as possible. As we passed each of the normal places people cache below 17 camp, such as the top of the fixed lines, below Washburns thumb etc., we just couldn’t find a reason to not keep going.

The weather was perfect, not a whisper of wind, and the views endless. The team was performing extremely well at such high altitude for the first time this trip, not to mention how they floated through the most technical terrain we’ve encountered thus far, so we went all the way to 17,000 ft camp. After digging ourselves a hole to cache in, we retraced our steps back down the west buttress and the fixed lines until we rolled into camp just as the shadow of the mountain engulfed the tent city.

All in all, a successful day completed by a strong team!

Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Strong team makes big progress at high altitudes. We love it!

Posted by: Amy Houston on 5/30/2022 at 4:59 am

Way to go guys! Thinking of you all and hoping for fair weather the next few days. Just back from a week of sailing in gale force winds on the west coast of Scotland so am very glad you don’t have that!! Love, Charles and Jennifer.

Posted by: Charles Platt on 5/29/2022 at 12:53 pm

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Aconcagua Expedition: Team Practices Skills and Waits

February 2, 2022

Posted by: Luke Wilhelm, David Price

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 18,300'

Day 13

The team awoke to warm bagels and crackling bacon. That was the warmest part of the day. It was a frigid one. We practiced cramponing while dashing in and out of our sleeping bags. Now is the trickiest part of any expedition. We sit, checking the weather repeatedly, waiting for our weather window to climb. Despite so much time in the tent, we are ready when the time comes.

Till next time,

RMI Guide Luke Wilhelm & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Dad,

Hope you are staying warm and keeping up morale while you wait for a clear safe opening for you to summit. Thinking of you! Sending Love and Strength!

Kelly

Posted by: Kelly on 2/3/2022 at 6:23 pm

Sounds like a you’re in good company while you await your window for summiting. Sending prayers the weather God’s turn in your favor. In the meantime, eat, rest, and relish in your magical winter wonderland adventure. We love you!

Love and God Bless,

ChrisBoLillianCarl

Posted by: ChrisBoLillianCarl on 2/2/2022 at 7:45 pm

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Mark Tucker and Team Arrive in Kathmandhu

March 20, 2013

Posted by: Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Mark Tucker here in Nepal kicking off the RMI 2013 Mount Everest programs. Our first wave of climbers are all here with bags intact. After a nice city tour and final preparations yesterday we have made our way to the Domestic airport. Right now we are at the boarding area and on standby due to a weather delay in Lukla, which is our flight destination. Not unusual for such a delay, so we will wait till weather conditions improve. A cup of tea and a book will hold us over for a while. No hurry. Looking forward to keeping you all up to date as best I can over the next couple of weeks / months / years. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

To All, especially Pete and Gerry… We’re pulling for you!!!

Posted by: mick on 3/25/2013 at 3:50 am

Mark, Many thanks for the wonderful photos and updates-we are there with you! Love to Liesl and Pete from their Durango family.

Posted by: Claudia and Jim on 3/23/2013 at 6:47 pm

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Most Popular Entries

RMI Guide Robby Young Recaps Climbing The North Ridge of Forbidden Peak

Mt. Everest Expedition: Final Rest Day at Base Camp

Melissa Arnot’s Ankle Recovers For Trip To Camp 2

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Unable to Climb Due to High Winds

Mt. Rainier: August 29th Summit!

Carstensz Pyramid: Team Readies for Summit Attempt

Aconcagua: Hailes, Delaney & Team Embark on an Acclimatization Hike

Denali Expedition: Schmitt and Team Cache Gear at 17,000’

Aconcagua Expedition: Team Practices Skills and Waits

Everest Base Camp Trek: Mark Tucker and Team Arrive in Kathmandhu

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