Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team - Happy To Be Home

June 6, 2016

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Jess Matthews

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

The May 10th Denali Expedition led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, and Jess Matthews were able to fly off the Kahiltna Glacier around 8:00 p.m. on Friday, June 3rd. After 24 days long days on the mountain, the team rushed off for showers, greasy burgers, and real beds. The team's patience paid off with a successful summit of Denali but everyone is excited to be returning home to their loved ones. Congratulations climbers!

The last few weeks have been pretty spectacular. Was fortunate to stand on top of the "Great One" with an amazing, hard working @rmiexpeditions crew. The AK Range officially has my heart.

A photo posted by Jess Matthews (@jess_matthews2) on Jun 5, 2016 at 9:06am PDT

Mt. Rainier: June 6th Summit!

June 6, 2016

Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Nick Hut reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team reported clear skies and great climbing conditions. They were able to some time on top enjoying the views before starting their descent. Congratulations to today's teams!

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Moves to 9,500’

June 6, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,500'

June 5, 2016 - 11:33 p.m. PDT After a late night walking the lower Kahiltna Glacier we decided to sleep in. We had coffee and brunch around 10:30 and then waited to see if the weather would improve before breaking camp. We passed by Jake's crew and woke them from an afternoon nap, and then on towards Ski Hill. With a heavy pack and sled, there is no way to make the climb up ski enjoyable. The team did a great job gritting their teeth as we slowly made our way up Ski Hill. As we made our way above 9,000' the light snow we had become accustomed to picked up with the wind so we found a flat place around 9,500' and settled in for the night. After pesto tortellini and a hot drink, we crawled into our sleeping bags. Everyone is doing very well and having fun despite the mediocre weather. Thanks for following along, more tomorrow. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the UWR Team

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Learn About Storm Days

June 6, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 5, 2016 - 9:46 p.m. PDT A clear night allowed the radiant heat from yesterday to escape, meaning quite the cool and crisp morning was upon us. When temperatures drop well below zero as they did this morning, it is another level of cold. There is a threshold where the mouths of our insulated Nalgene bottles freeze over, and our 12-liter aluminum water pots in the kitchen become lined with a thick layer of ice all around. The clear morning lured some climbers and neighbors to break camp and begin a push up to high camp. Within a few hours though, the forecast proved accurate as Denali began to cap over and a storm develop. Light to moderate winds here at 14 camp, but still cold and no real warming yet with increasing snowfall intensity. The "nowcast" and short lived morning sun surely tricked those climbers as they were turned around just a thousand feet up by extreme cold and back in camp by noon. Only becoming stronger with continued acclimatization, and tall snow-brick walls fortifying the windward sides of our homestead, we are content with staying put. Our camp now sits in a wind eddy as gusts strong enough to bend trees push into our walls and curl over as we lay in the tents and nap. Nice to have spent a few days dialing in our camp! The team is ready and excited to make a move once the mountain allows, but only with a high safety margin and good style. For now though we'll keep kickin' it at camp: remodeling, relaxing, pancake eating, and cold hard chilling until the weather changes. Also worth noting was last nights impromptu trip to "The Edge of the World". A short walk across Genet Basin brought us to an amazing vista overlooking the Kahiltna Glacier, Mount Hunter and Foraker, and a large portion of the route we traveled in the past week. Evening light and periodic clearing made for a special view. Snow crystals flickered and glittered through the gaps of misty clouds floating 5,000' above the ominous cracks and towering walls of the NE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Learning how to stay busy during our first real "storm day" isn't so bad! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Stinger,

Waffles please! I know you just came for the waffles.

Good thing you’ve had Chicago training for extreme negative temperatures, powerful gusts of wind, and staying home and napping when you’re scheduled to work. I hope your beard is full enough now to keep you warm while giving you a nice sunglasses tan. The goggles do nothing!

Don’t stick your tongue to anything metal.

Jacket

Posted by: Jacket on 6/6/2016 at 8:29 pm

to Bob: Amelia and Chet think your trip is awesome and that you are crazy. it sounds “so cool” and Uncle Bob is “the best” can’t wait to talk to you when you get back. dad is in boulder/denver and vail next week (you know why). we are puling for you uncle bob.

Posted by: mark mullen on 6/6/2016 at 7:58 pm

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Alaska Seminar: Elias & Team Check in from the Pika Glacier

June 5, 2016

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Greetings from the Pika! Our trip started yesterday with a true alpine lesson; learning about weather Windows. Heavy rain in Talkeetna meant snow on the Range. Patience and trust in what's beyond our control (that being our K2 Aviation staff) delivered a landing opportunity in the only feasible hour of time frame possible all day. Close to dinner time, we found ourselves digging our campsite for the week. The day today came with plenty of snow, so we have been trying our best to remain dry. The now timid features around us, soon will come into full view, and we'll be able to tell you more. In the meantime, we're not in a bad place to enjoy good food, review some skills, and feel the magic of the Alaska Range. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Carry to 11,200’

June 5, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

June 5, 2016 - 5:20 p.m. PDT Our luck has been pretty good so far -- when we arrived at camp yesterday, it had just began to snow and once we finished today's toil, the same happened. The job for today was to carry a load up hill to make our move to 11 Camp a little more civilized. It also gives us a chance to acclimatize a little and do some walking with a little less weight. The team did great and though we were in a whiteout for much of the day, we were treated to one or two to looks around. I can't wait for our team to see where we are, without being obscured by weather. It will be a treat and all in good time. RMI Guide Jake Beren and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

A message for Brad Lawler: very excited for you and hoping the weather clears so you can take in all the beauty. Stay warm and don’t forget your insoles!

Posted by: Matthew DeVoll on 6/6/2016 at 10:25 am

Good to hear all the news! What’s the team name?

Isty

Posted by: Isty on 6/5/2016 at 10:59 pm

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Denali - West Buttress Expedition: Okita and Team Celebrate

June 5, 2016

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

We're off the mountain and diving to the Anchorage airport. Obviously, we flew off the glacier last night, just before dinner. After some thankless chores of sorting out gear that the team did without complaint, it was off to the Talkeetna Motel where we had to wait again as the owner cleaned out rooms. But still no complaints from one of the nicest groups of folks I've had the pleasure of climbing with. Dinner then drinks and merriment at the Fairview Inn. What went on in that fine establishment I'll leave unsaid. Just know that the two block walk back to the hotel seemed manageable and safe for all. That only half the group made it to breakfast at 9:00 might tell of the fun had that night. It's been a tremendous trip with people I'd love to climb with or at least see again. I hope you've enjoyed sharing the trip in this way with us. Maybe next time you'll be part of our group - it's an amazing experience in an amazing world. It will change your life and be with you forever. From Alaska this last time, so long. RMI Guide Brent Okita & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great to hear that everyone made it back to sea level safe! What an amazing trip you all must have had. Along with Joe, I cannot wait to hear the stories you must have! Great job Dawn, so proud of you!
All the best to all team members and keep on climbing those mountains for no one will remember those extra days you spent in the office!!

Cheers from Calgary,

Darcy

Posted by: Darcy on 6/8/2016 at 7:55 am

Congrats Team! Thanks for keeping us updated Brent; it was a blast (and much needed distraction) following you all up the mountain whilst day-dreaming of alpine starts and fresh Alaskan air from my office here in the gloomy SF! So stoked and proud of you Dawn, looking forward to reconnecting with you and the Rainier team soon and hearing all about your Denali adventure.

Joe

Posted by: Joseph Walker on 6/6/2016 at 9:36 am

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Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Hits the Glacier

June 5, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7600'

June 4, 2016 - 11:46 a.m. PDT The team played a lot of hurry up and wait most of the day in Talkeetna. We put the final touches on packing, weighed in for the flight, and waited for a weather window to get into the Alaska Range. Our window opened right around 5 PM and we snuck into Kahiltna BC just before it socked in again. Once on the glacier we spent a few hours rigging for rope travel and re-packing before we hit the dusty trail. Everyone did a fantastic job and just before 1 AM we set up camp at 7,600' on the Kahiltna That's it for now. We're all really excited to be here. Thanks for following along, RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and The UWR team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Ben and Team. Looks beautiful but super cold. Stay warm!! Ben is that you in the yellow coat??! Safe travels.

xo
Mel

Posted by: Melinda on 6/7/2016 at 8:28 am

Andrea mou!! Hope you’re having a blast. Pictures looks amazing. Stay warm - miss you!

Posted by: GSD on 6/6/2016 at 6:43 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 5th Summit!

June 5, 2016

Posted by: Leon Davis, Ben Liken

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Leon Davis and Ben Liken reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team reported clear skies, a light breeze and comfortable climbing conditions.The team has started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to the team! Another victory for Amherst hockey! Glad everyone had a safe climb.

Posted by: Martha and Denis Moher on 6/5/2016 at 2:39 pm

Congratulations Boys! What is the next challenge?

Love,
The English Family

P.S. Kevin, Grace and Glory say way to go!!!

Posted by: Kevin English on 6/5/2016 at 9:53 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team - Rest Days are the Best Days

June 4, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 4, 2016 - 5:02 pm PT After yesterday's mission caching our summit kits at the top of the fixed lines, the crew is ready for a rest day. We went to bed last night to clear skies and low valley clouds rolling around Foraker and awoke to more perfect views above. Many of the slopes around camp are accruing ski tracks, and providing great entertainment! Today's breakfast was high class gourmet, with salmon and cream cheese bagels and a side of cheesy bacon hash browns. The fresh food has spirits high as we hope for the great weather to continue. Until then we'll continue to chill and watch skiers enjoy the fresh snow. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

You guys are moving impressively fast. Keep listening to Tyler (especially about putting on your puffy pants before coming into the cook tent) and he will get you to the top!

- Devin Smith (Tyler Jones Denali University, class of ‘15)

Posted by: Devin Smith on 6/6/2016 at 8:10 am

Cream Cheese,

Your ideas are intriguing to me and I wish to subscribe to your newsletter.

When’s your next coffee break? While you are resting, I am staying very productive, and going to church. Watching skiers sounds fun; typical powder hounds.

Remember, if we can do it, so can you! What I’m saying is, I’ll give you the money to keep going. It seems like they’re feeding you well, but if you’re still hungry when you get back, we can go to Arby’s.

— Boo

Posted by: Mrs. Oxygen on 6/6/2016 at 12:15 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team - Happy To Be Home

Mt. Rainier: June 6th Summit!

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Moves to 9,500’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Learn About Storm Days

On The Map

Alaska Seminar: Elias & Team Check in from the Pika Glacier

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Carry to 11,200’

On The Map

Denali - West Buttress Expedition: Okita and Team Celebrate

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Hits the Glacier

Mt. Rainier: June 5th Summit!

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team - Rest Days are the Best Days

On The Map

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