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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Jones and Rest and Re-Fuel

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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June 13, 2014 3:21pm PT Denali is a mountain of many moods. Yesterday, as we carried our cache to our highest point yet, she gave us a taste of moderate winds and blowing snow, showing a little irritation. Today, she seems more benign, with light winds, high clouds, and intermittent snow here in camp. The tents are warm and comforting, and we're all enjoying a well earned rest session. To that end, we started the morning with plenty of hot coffee, endless strips of crispy, delicious bacon, and the Tyler Jones specialty of blueberry pancakes that would give the best griddle cooks a serious run for their money. The perfectly browned hot cakes, the secrets of which TJ learned from his grandpa, just kept coming, and we all ate our fill until we couldn't stuff another one down. The remainder of the day will be dedicated to recuperation, re-hydration, and maximum relaxation. In fact, the main goal is to move as little as possible and save our energy for the climbing to come. Until then, we'll be standing by, waiting for the best window for our summit push. Thanks for all the positive vibes and keep'em coming! Cheers for now, check back tomorrow... Team No Troubles
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Dave, Although I believe you are on the mountain, I want some proof with some close-up pictures of you!  Put them on this site so we can see them.  I hope you’re staying warm.  Patty

Posted by: Patty on 6/15/2014 at 10:12 am

Hi Paul. I’m hoping that your journey is not harder than you imagined, and that your still enjoying yourself. Things are going good here. It was supposed to rain most of the weekend, but had some sun, so did some weeding. (BLAH!!!!) Just finished eating my “Sunday” night papa’s pizza. ( We’re breaking all kinds of rules when your gone. Haha!) Stay safe. We miss you. Alex & the dogs, say Happy Dad’s Day!!! Love Ronda, Al, Meeka (the dog who drank half my coffee this AM) and Max.

Posted by: Ronda Kinneberg on 6/14/2014 at 5:25 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Retrieve Cache

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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June 13, 2014 12:18am PT After a good night's rest the team hit the trail again, heading back to 9,700' feet to retrieve our cache. The weather was great and everyone enjoyed the cool temps and beautiful scenery. It was a great day to stretch the legs. Back at camp we rested a bit and then reviewed some basic techniques required for life on the upper mountain. Now reacquainted with our emergency ice axe skills and proficient cramponing, we are prepared to carry toward 14,000' Camp if the weather allows. Now it's off to bed to be ready for a big day tomorrow if we can catch a break on the weather. RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team

On The Map

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Happy Birthday Edd

Posted by: christine beach on 6/14/2014 at 10:02 am

Hey Jared and team, Keep up the good work! Watching you everyday on the blog-Stay strong and Im praying for great weather. We all Love you Mom and Dad :)

Posted by: Donna Schulz on 6/13/2014 at 10:14 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Climb and Cache

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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June 12, 2014 10:25pm PT After sitting watching the wind blow furiously for two days, we finally got the break we needed to climb up to the Rib and cache some gear. The trail breaking was deep, often between mid-calf and mid-thigh and required us to swap guides breaking trail every stretch. Conditions on the Rib itself were great. The wind had swept away most of the powder, leaving perfect Styrofoam snow- an ideal surface for cramponning. Eventually we found a cache location around 15,800'. The weather above us was windy and cold, but we were able to bury the gear and head downhill without getting punished by the weather. As we tuck into bed, the team has a content feeling that everything is in order and all we need is suitable weather to push for the summit. Thanks to everyone who has followed our progress. Much love and warm thoughts. RMI Guide Eric Frank and the UWR team
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That’s a lot of bagels.  John, I told you that you would miss the Kings winning the Stanley Cup! It was a nail biter. Now I can fully concentrate on your team’s achievements.  I’m very excited by your march to the top and am with you every step of the way.  Everyone, continue to have fun and stay strong.  Tante

Posted by: Lisa Stenderup on 6/13/2014 at 9:46 pm

The photo of “stashin’ the cache” gives new meaning to the old fashioned term “icebox”!!!
I am loving the photos that you guys are sending us. They are really giving us a visual of all that you are experiencing. Although, the temperatures up there are beyond my comprehension!  Stay strong, stay safe!!! Lots of love to all of you!!!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/13/2014 at 9:10 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 13th - Update

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,600'

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Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Tyler Reid and Pete Van Deventer were turned at 12,600’ due to weather. The team climbed into a cap and reported low visibility, cold temperatures, snow showers a couple of inches of accumulation and light to moderate winds. The teams are en route Back to Camp Muir and will be back at Rainier Basecamp early this afternoon. Congratulations to Today's Teams.
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Will and Tim it was an honor to have attempted the summit of Rainier with you. Pete, I would follow your lead up any mountain my friend. You kept it cool and calm under all conditions, including me tugging at your rope at 12,000ft.

Posted by: charles on 6/18/2014 at 7:57 am

Good try Ted and friends.  Weather can be the decider up on Rainier.  The Top of the Cleaver is still high, and it is the crux of the route you were on.  The mountain will always be there and I know you will go back.  Hopefully, I can go with you again!  Still a great adventure and a big accomplishment.
Dad

Posted by: Jim Daverman on 6/13/2014 at 4:28 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Locked and Loaded, Luggaged Lugged

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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June 12, 2014 - 9:47 pm PT Climbing in Alaska, so close to the Arctic circle is never an easy task. Formidable and imposing features surround the landscape we travel through. Climbing, especially on "The High One" presents the added challenge of high winds, low temperatures, and high altitude. Today, we awoke to one of these elements; low temperatures. It makes for a unique challenge when faced with the need to begin the days work. Forcing ones self to leave the warm cocoon you have been comfortably nestled in all night. We began our day with a warm dose of oatmeal and hot drinks, and soon took off towards the fixed lines that lay above our current camp at 14,000 feet, in Genet Basin. As an expedition this was our first time above our current camp. As we struck out from camp we welcomed the warmth of the sun on our backs. After climbing to the base of the fixed lines, we began our steepest climbing of the day. Travel was smooth and the reality of the climbing set in. From the top of the fixed lines we ran the ridge of the West Buttress and made efficient work to the base of "The Thumb," at 16,700'. We created a cache of food and some personal items needed for high camp and our summit attempt. From our cache we retraced our steps back to camp. The team made quick work of dinner and now are fast asleep. For now we wait and rest, ready to launch. All we need is a window and bang! We're off. Keep it locked in... RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

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Jen - Way to go! Fixed lines - it’s getting real. I know you’re doing awesome. Can’t wait to hear all about it when you get back.

Posted by: Nicole on 6/13/2014 at 8:17 pm

Hi Will! I got your postcard of Denali yesterday! Such a sweet surprise - I’m praying for you and missing you! The a/c at the office is nothing compared to your frigid temps but know that I’m shivering with u and dreaming of the day I can go to Alaska w u! Remember the anchorage guy in the RV we met in the parking lot of lake Louise? Good mems! Luv u big time - da wife.

Posted by: Christine on 6/13/2014 at 9:26 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team on Mountain Time

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

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June 12, 2014 - 9:02 pm PT RMI Team Haugen is at Kahiltna Basecamp. We departed just before 9:00 am from Talkeetna as the weather was clearing and Denali was looming in the distance. We have taken the day to organize our gear and get a plan together to tackle the lower glacier. Basecamp is in good shape with all of the new snowfall and we are excited to head out towards Camp 1 at 7,800' on the Kahiltna Glacier. We plan on leaving basecamp very early since it did get pretty warm during midday today. The adventure begins! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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Bruce & Michael - You’re living the life you love & loving the life you live. GOOD LUCK to your entire team!  xo Jen

Posted by: Jen Bush on 6/13/2014 at 6:17 pm

Dear Bruce and Michael,
It is great to see you “climbing” your dream.  Sending you well wishes,
Kathy

Posted by: Kathy Damico on 6/13/2014 at 2:59 pm

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Mt.McKinley: Haugen & Team Fly onto the Glacier!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,200'

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June 12, 2014 9:20am PT It looks like we got lucky with the weather and found ourselves a day to fly! The mountain is visible from Talkeetna which seems like it is a rarity this season. All systems go! RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team
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Onward & Upward Bruce!

Posted by: Cheryl & Ken on 6/26/2014 at 12:19 am

Wow Bruce! You are there. Wait a minute. The tail of the plane behind you says “K2”. Are you in Pakistan? :)

Posted by: Kris McCann on 6/13/2014 at 3:35 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 11,200’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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June 12, 2014 10:22am PT Yesterday was a great day. After a few storm days at the base of ski hill, the weather let us leave camp. Waking early we set off in good walking temps but no visibility for higher on glacier. The snow was deep and as the first team to make the move, we enjoyed breaking trail for a few hours before the skies cleared and a descending team provided a nicely broken trail. The views were spectacular and honestly the clearest of the whole trip. The team put in a big day yesterday and are enjoying a leisurely morning here at 11,200 before back carrying later today to pick up our cache at 9700. RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
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Good luck to the guides and team!
So glad to hear you could move up.
love you Dawn and all the others!

Mom.

Posted by: Hye Kim on 6/13/2014 at 10:28 am

Good luck to the guides and all their charges! I hope everyone is well and the views continue to be awe inspiring and frequent.          i
IL Padrino

Posted by: padrino on 6/13/2014 at 9:29 am

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team takes Weather Day at 14,000’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

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June 11, 2014 10:53pm PT We awoke this morning to clear skies and the sound of howling wind thrashing the mountain above us. It was a cold day at 14 camp despite the winds easing a bit in the afternoon. We finished building our snow walls and made some snow statues- a mailbox and planter among them. At 3:00 pm the winds had let up enough that we took a walk to the Edge of the World, a vista point on the 14k bench. The forecast is looking better and we are hopeful that we can get a cache up on the Rib tomorrow. Thanks for following along with us. RMI Guides Eric, Geoff and The UWR Team
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Dr. Bruce Freedman, Love the beard. You guys look great. What a view you have. Stay warm and post some more pics… David

Posted by: David Hart on 6/13/2014 at 2:48 am

Good work gentlemen!

John, your fantasy baseball team is doing phenominal, the first goal of the world cup was an own-goal, and I left a basball game in the middle of the 14th inning only to hear the fireworks of a walk-off homer in the parking lot. Stay safe-ish, take lots of photos, and enjoy your time on the mountian.

Cash

Posted by: Clay Rogers on 6/12/2014 at 9:40 pm

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Mt. Rainier: RMI Climbers on the Summit!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Lindsay Fixmer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:25 am PT. Casey reported winds ranging from 15-20 mph and clear skies. From the summit he could see clouds throughout the Ashford valley but reported clear skies above 6,000'. The team was able to enjoy an hour on top due to the nice weather. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later today. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb Teams!
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Way to go Ken and Jessie! Congrats on reaching the summit. We are proud of you two and can’t wait to hear about your climb.
Love, Jeff, Lee & Lauren

Posted by: Lee and Jeff on 6/15/2014 at 4:19 pm

Way to go Ronnie!  So glad you made it to the top!  We are proud of you!  Love, Mommy & Logan

Posted by: Lindsey & Logan on 6/12/2014 at 5:25 pm

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