Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Sunday, June 9, 2013
Tonight we will sleep well after
three big days on the lower Kahiltna. We arrived to 11,000' camp in the early warmth of a new day and made camp easily. A strong performance by the team gives us great confidence in our abilities the higher we move and with a full day of rest tomorrow, we should only grow stronger.
The rest day won't be entirely lounging about. We are going to review some tricks of the trade for motion on the upper mountain and ready loads for our carry towards our 14,000' Camp.
So with a light snow falling onto our tents and the sound of other teams passing through camp, we say goodnight to our friends and family.
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard
On The Map
After yesterday's carry up into the thin air of 16,000', the team is enjoying the sun and leisurely pace of a rest day here in Genet Basin. The morning started when the sun came around the ridge, thawing the tents and prying open our closed eyes from a well-earned night of sleep.
We headed over to our posh house and spent the better part of two hours making and eating blueberry pancakes with peanut butter and bacon. Movie quotes bubbled up from the crew like water from a fountain, followed by a discussion of other vacation ideas (mostly tropical). We drank hot coffee and generally continued to bond together, enjoying the calm morning.
This afternoon, we're planning to head over to a zone known as "the edge of the world," which lies about 20 minutes southwest of camp. The basin in which we're camped drops precipitously away about 5,000 vertical feet at this location, providing outlandish views of the
Kahiltna Glacier, Mt Hunter, Mt Foraker, and the vast Alaskan wilderness. This light acclimatization hike will let us flush the lactic acid we accumulated yesterday, stretch sore legs, and soak up more of the beauty that surrounds us.
At day 11 on the mountain, thoughts can easily turn to the little things you miss from the lowlands - trees, birdsong, bacon cheeseburgers. But our team is still focused on the ascent, and remains mentally strong and poised to move higher yet. We'll check back in tomorrow, so don't change that channel!
RMI Guides
Tyler Jones,
Garrett Stevens and the team
On The Map
The
Four Day Summit Climb led by
Casey Grom and the
Five Day Summit Climb led by
Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reported windy conditions up top. Both teams will descend to Camp Muir, pack up and then continue to Paradise.
We look forwrd to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Saturday, June 8, 2013
Bonjour, from the fryer at 14 camp. The essence of climbing the great big mountains is that in the shade we freeze and in the sun we fry. Our carry to 16,400 ft went well and we are now ready for some more rest time.
Today was a long hard effort getting out of the tents around 6:45 with not a breath of wind and clear skies; the not so fuzzy part was -10 F air temp. This had us all moving quickly to eat another bowl of oatmeal and down a cup of coffee before departing camp and wiggling vigorously to keep the fingers and toes warm.
When we reached the half way mark in our second leg of the carry, the sun popped up over the West Rib route and the rays warmed us to our core. It took just a half hour for us to be climbing in our base layer, welcoming the fry portion of our day.
The fixed lines on the
West Buttress Head Wall were in great condition with fabulous cramponing - the teeth biting in the snow as if we were on steep green grass. I envy green grass as the only natural colors we have observed are white, blue and the light brown of the granite ridges rising thousands of feet above.
We chopped in firm snow to create a cache hole just big enough to drop food, fuel and supplies. The team then descended down the buttress a short way before a hot and relatively easy and smooth decent off the fixed lines and a short stroll back to our 14 advanced base camp!
In the tents yet again hiding from the magnificent orange ball in the sky! The future of the day and for tomorrow is to chill, eat, drink, and rest up for our summit push hopefully next week! We miss you all! The guides are currently craving an ice cold coke, some one please have one for us! Till tomorrow be happy be chill all is well!
Ciao,
RMI Guides Tyler Jones & Garrett Stevens
On The Map
Saturday, June 8, 2013
Waking early this morning we shouldered out packs and made a bid to move some supplies higher on the mountain. Mild but cold enough temps kept the walking comfortable and we were able to cache at 11,000' camp before the sun came out in force. The team did great, and we made it back to our camp at the base of
Ski Hill before the heat really turned on.
Now we are hiding in whatever shade we can find before an early dinner and bed. If the weather holds or at least remains workable, we will fire for 11 Camp in the wee hours tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
On The Map
The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide
Jason Thompson reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 6 a.m. this morning. The team climbed above the clouds and experienced great route conditions.
Congratulations to today's Team!
Photos by Jason Thompson, see more of Jason's photography
here.
Friday, June 7, 2013
Happy 100 Year Anniversary of the
first ascent of Denali to all our friends in the lowlands! We celebrated the occasion by leaving Basecamp for our first camp at the base of Ski Hill. On our way we ran into RMI Team 3 with Brent, Leah and Logan, fresh (generous term) from the summit. A big congratulations for a job well done.
We travelled early this morning, making use of the cooler temps to stay on the surface of the snow instead of post holing our way into utter frustration. Our way to camp was smooth and we can only hope the melting snow doesn't disappear too fast so that we can make our way out of here in a few weeks. I'm sure it will work out just fine.
We plan on calling it early tonight and carrying higher early tomorrow morning while it's still cold and then we can soak up the heat in the afternoon. The team is off to a great start, climbing strong and happy to be on the mountain.
RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
On The Map
Friday, June 7, 2013
Yes, we're back in
Talkeetna after an incredible walk back to Base camp in the early morning hours. I think most of us are relaxing now after a much needed shower. In a short while we'll be back together for a great dinner not prepared by the guides and perhaps accompanied by an adult beverage ...and certainly including dessert. We've had a great run!
I for one will miss the company of a stellar group of individuals I can now call friends.
Perhaps you'll excuse their absence from your lives again sometime as we pursue our passion for the mountains. Of course, you'll always be close to them through these dispatches.
This will be our last, and I appreciate all your support and interest. The people you've been following are incredible individuals. We are fortunate to call them friends.
Bye for now,
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Friday, June 7, 2013
Today, we are chilling out around camp like it's our job; in fact, it IS our job after
yesterday's move up to 14,200'. The trial of moving with big packs in the relentless sun is behind us, and now we are enjoying our well earned rest.
The morning started when the sun crept around the ridge, taking the bite out of last night's sub-zero temperatures. The crystal blue skies above were inviting folks to grab sleeping bags and drape them over tents to dry out, as well as let the UV rays kill a week of accumulated funk.
As hot water came to a boil and the smells of frying bacon and eggs wafted over our tents, the crew came circling in like sharks sensing prey in the water. Our breakfast quesadillas lasted about as long as an injured fish in a feeding frenzy, too - but you know what they say: you have to eat your way right to the top of this mountain.
After the group appetite was satiated, team members waddled back to their tents in down booties, looking for more respite from the intense power if the sun. The route is easily visible from our tents, and we've seen plenty of teams heading up the route we'll follow tomorrow on our carry. The group morale is high and folks are climbing strong, although the new altitude is definitely noticeable.
Our afternoon today will include a review of fixed line travel techniques, in preparation for the carry tomorrow. But for now, we are simply enjoying being in one of the world's most beautiful places, with excellent weather and the bulk of Denali reminding us of what's to come. Thanks for all the kind wishes and keep sending the good vibes! Stay tuned...
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, and the Crew
On The Map
Thursday, June 6, 2013
If our good luck holds out, this is our
last night on Denali. It's just a little bitter sweet. This place has been on our thoughts and in our dreams for so long, and has given us an experience that will forever hold a special place in our hearts.
But now our thoughts turn to home, family and loved ones. Oh, and perhaps to a great meal and beer too.
To get to where we are now, back at our 11,200' camp, we've just descended 6000' feet of steep terrain with heavy loads. Everyone did well getting down the technical part of the Buttress and fixed ropes, then came time to tether the sleds and load up the stuff we cached at 14,200' camp.
And now, finally, we're back at 11,200' camp. A hastily set up camp followed by a quick dinner and we're horizontal. The chores have all been done and even the guides are in bed by 10:00pm. And just as well because we'll be up at 1:30am to get on a night time schedule to travel on snow that's hard and frozen, thereby insuring us safe travels over the crevassed glacier of the lower Kahiltna that warm and melt incredibly fast in the Alaskan summer.
But the best part of the trip is yet to come. Walking down the Kahiltna while the sun is just below the horizon has given me some of the most beautiful vistas I've ever witnessed, with the rosy tint of dawn hitting these hugely majestic Alaskan peaks all around us.
We're hoping to get to the airstrip by mid morning, so with luck we'll be back in Takkeetna tomorrow.
A little closer to you, but a world away from the mountain that has been our focus and challenge for the past couple of weeks. We'll miss her, but will carry with us a treasure of fond memories of our life spent here.
Your guides,
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
On The Map
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Looking good, Thanks for the wonderful updates and photos. B Safe and have fun! Kalispell Montana
Posted by: Jay Rocha on 6/10/2013 at 12:06 pm
Getting tremendous vicarious enjoyment from your trip! Keep up the fantastic work!!
Posted by: Nina Baj on 6/10/2013 at 11:43 am
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