Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Wednesday, June 12, 2013
Today is unfortunately another out chill situation. Garrett and I woke about 6 this morning to continued strong wind from 16,000 feet and above. The nature of the climbing is steep and exposed. With wind and a very cold north east flow, the risk of frostbite and loss of balance from the wind gusts, we have chosen to stay another day and hope for less wind tomorrow.
We try to conserve our lunch food and avoid the piggy tendency that sitting and waiting in the tents provides! The weather is clear and warm in most of Alaska, but at the altitudes we want to venture into, the jet stream is on!
On a more positive note, RMI Guide Jake Beren and his crew pulled into camp this afternoon, making for a great meeting of the minds in our 14,200' home. We are excited to spend some time with friends and climbing partners from past trips, although we do have high hopes for a move tomorrow.
Report back soon!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
The
Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide
Billy Nugent reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Billy reported clear and beautiful skies, but cold temperatures with winds of about 10 - 15 mph form the northwest. The team has started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
Tuesday, June 11, 2013
All these early mornings are sure getting us dialed on working in the cold and will surely pay off up high. Today we led the way out of 11,000 ft camp by a few hours and reaped the reward of hitting the sun at a not-so
Windy Corner and putting in our cache at 13,500 ft in still, warm weather. The team did a great job and collectively we avoided baking in the afternoon sun. Now back at camp, the team is relaxing and recovering so that if Mother Nature allows, we can bump camps to 14,000' tomorrow. All we can do now is rest up and hope that Windy Corner lets us through one more time.
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard
On The Map
June 11, 2013
You can't always get what you want...
Those lyrics from Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones were the first thing that went through the collective consciousness this morning. The guides woke at 6am, packed sleeping bags in preparation for departure and unzipped the tent - only to see winds whipping the ridge of the
West Buttress route above.
While camp here at 14,200' remains relatively calm, the higher reaches of the mountain are getting pummeled by ferocious northeast winds, which are sending plumes of spindrift snow off into the stratosphere. With a forecast high temperature of -15F at the 17,000' camp today, and winds gusting well into the 30mph range, the only safe option is to wait here in camp and hope for a less windy day to make our move. That combination of wind and temperature will actually feel like -65F (approximately), which can freeze exposed flesh in one minute. Needless to say, we're not going to venture into that kind environment.
So here we sit and wait, hoping for a break in the wind. We were treated to a bodacious air show earlier, when the contract helicopter, an A-Star B-3, came ripping around and right over our tents about three times in a row. Seems like they are doing some sort of filming up here, and we all mugged shamelessly as the ship blasted less than 40 feet above us. Good entertainment, to say the least.
While we have had more than one facetious conversation about moving in the wind storm, the group is prepared to wait for the right time and the right weather window. To channel the Stones yet again (and continue the song):
If you try sometimes, you might find you get what you need
So here's hoping we get what we need!
RMI Guides
Tyler Jones,
Garrett Stevens and the patiently waiting team
On The Map
The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide
Elias deAndres Martos and our Five Day Summit Climb Team Led by RMI Guide
Zeb Blais reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams climbed above the 8000’ cloud deck and reported moderate winds. They will spend some time on the summit before descending back to Camp Muir.
The
Expedition Skills Semnar - Emmons Team led by
Geoff Schellens reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Emmons Route this morning. The team had a great day of climbing and are the first RMI team to reach the summit of Mt.Rainier via the Emmons route this season.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Monday, June 10, 2013
A windy and cold night was greeted by more wind. For our team this is no issue, as we had planned this second consecutive rest day. This will be just the ticket for a more acclimatized and rested body that we will need for summit success.
The menu for this morning was supreme. Round upon round of bagels with cream cheese topped with bacon along with hash browns covered in cheese took us once again well past noon to complete.
The places we travel in the mountains can lead one to believe we are Martians, ready to launch onto to another planet - and that is exactly what we are doing. We push ourselves both mentally and physically, taking our personal learning and discovery to a higher level. When we return from these Martian lands, after having come face to face with deep personal truths and surpassing previously held limitations...we bring a richer and more rounded person home, someone who understands more about the nature of teamwork, sacrifice, and awareness. We thank you all for the support and the opportunity to let us dig deep and take on a new understanding of our passions!
The afternoon has more smelly tent time spent pounding water, fussing over who is the best celeb of all time and growing hairier by the day! The forecast is looking to set up nicely over the next few days and we hope to move to our high camp tomorrow. Till then keep the vibe high for our push!
RMI Guides
Tyler Jones,
Garrett Stevens and the crew
On The Map
Monday, June 10, 2013
It did snow a little bit last night and the cold wind this morning made a camp day a welcome change of pace for this team. We are climbing very well so far, and I'm sure everyone would've done just fine continuing higher this morning. Patience on the
big mountain is key, and the recovery day will only make us stronger for the future as we acclimatize and settle in to camp life.
After a big breakfast we reviewed some cramponing techniques and ice axe usage. After our mid-morning relaxation session we are going to have a potluck lunch and move to a little rope work and cache digging before dinner. Tomorrow if the weather is workable we will carry towards 14,000' Camp and get a little taste of some real altitude. Everyone sends their best to family and friends back home.
Over and out,
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Andres Marin and Shaun Sears reached the summit of Mt Rainier on this clear, sunny morning. They reported windy conditions with views all the way to Mt. Hood in Oregon. The teams spent about an hour on the summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir. After a short rest at Camp Muir, the teams will continue down to Paradise.
We look forward to seeing everyone at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations!
Sunday, June 9, 2013
Tonight we will sleep well after
three big days on the lower Kahiltna. We arrived to 11,000' camp in the early warmth of a new day and made camp easily. A strong performance by the team gives us great confidence in our abilities the higher we move and with a full day of rest tomorrow, we should only grow stronger.
The rest day won't be entirely lounging about. We are going to review some tricks of the trade for motion on the upper mountain and ready loads for our carry towards our 14,000' Camp.
So with a light snow falling onto our tents and the sound of other teams passing through camp, we say goodnight to our friends and family.
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard
On The Map
After yesterday's carry up into the thin air of 16,000', the team is enjoying the sun and leisurely pace of a rest day here in Genet Basin. The morning started when the sun came around the ridge, thawing the tents and prying open our closed eyes from a well-earned night of sleep.
We headed over to our posh house and spent the better part of two hours making and eating blueberry pancakes with peanut butter and bacon. Movie quotes bubbled up from the crew like water from a fountain, followed by a discussion of other vacation ideas (mostly tropical). We drank hot coffee and generally continued to bond together, enjoying the calm morning.
This afternoon, we're planning to head over to a zone known as "the edge of the world," which lies about 20 minutes southwest of camp. The basin in which we're camped drops precipitously away about 5,000 vertical feet at this location, providing outlandish views of the
Kahiltna Glacier, Mt Hunter, Mt Foraker, and the vast Alaskan wilderness. This light acclimatization hike will let us flush the lactic acid we accumulated yesterday, stretch sore legs, and soak up more of the beauty that surrounds us.
At day 11 on the mountain, thoughts can easily turn to the little things you miss from the lowlands - trees, birdsong, bacon cheeseburgers. But our team is still focused on the ascent, and remains mentally strong and poised to move higher yet. We'll check back in tomorrow, so don't change that channel!
RMI Guides
Tyler Jones,
Garrett Stevens and the team
On The Map
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Jess and team,
Mother nature will cooperate, she is just having one of those days. Weather down here not much better. Keep up the spirits, it will get better.
Jess, miss you here! Keep up the great work.
Love, Hector
Posted by: Hector Valle on 6/13/2013 at 4:35 pm
Robin and Team!
Kudos to all of you for staying put and being safe! I have faith that conditions will be much better tomorrow and you will be able to move to your high camp.
Stay safe and stay warm and lots of prayers for your safe successful climb tomorrow. As the lyrics go “movin on up!” Look forward to your next blog from high camp!
Love DAD
Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/13/2013 at 6:18 am
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