Thursday, June 6, 2013
Awh ya! We are all moved in at 14,200' in the Genet Basin! Last evening we were put to bed by the clearing of the clouds and spectacular views of Kahiltna Dome, Mt. Foraker from the 11,000' camp. We had a windless night and woke to a brisk yet blue bird morning. We had a quick bite of oatmeal and a coffee, and like blades in a blender we whipped up our kit and saddled our packs to ride.
Our trip was smooth with a chance to further take in the unbelievable view of the entire Southern Alaska range. We rounded Windy Corner with a rest stop in zero wind. Our freckles could tell by late morning that the sun's inferno would take a toll on our energy. Regardless, we made great steady progress arriving in 14 camp in a little over 5 hours.
Arriving at camp is just part of the move day's work! We established camp quickly thanks to a previously occupied camp. Yet, making water, retrieving the cache, moving our belongings back in the tent coupled with new altitude is hard work.
This all pays off at the end of the day when you're snuggling with your big cached food bag and other piles of feathers We are reunited with! Laying in the tent as i write with a full belly of soup, tortellini, and cookies!
It is good to be moving up with sprits high, climbers enjoying the mountain and a rest day for tomorrow! Did I say Awhh ya?
RMI Guides Tyler Jones & Garrett Stevens & The team
You guys are doing GREAT!!! I love the positive energy that is coming from the message. Keep it up! :D Hugs and kisses to Lori. (Kisses from Maggie.) :) Good luck on the next climb and enjoy your rest day!
Love from the little mountains,
Casey and Maggie (“Woof!”)
Keep God in your heart.
Posted by: Casey Hansen on 6/9/2013 at 6:52 pm
d.
looks like the third maybe the charm. enjoy!
mom
Thursday, June 6, 2013
Greetings from the Kahiltna Glacier! Our team flew from Talkeetna onto the mountain this morning and we've been busy setting up shop, pitching tents and dialing in camp. Our sleds are ready and it's an "early to bed, early to rise" type of morning in our future, provided the weather stays workable. Tomorrow we ride for the base of Ski Hill and start climbing.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
All reports sound good for the recent summits. Safe journey to all of you as you begin the climb. Our prayer flags are hung in the backyard for your summit and return. xoox, Bonny
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by JJ Justman and Pete Van Deventer reached the top of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team reported excellent climbing conditions with clear skies and no wind. The team spent time on Columbia Crest celebrating and snapping photos. They have started their descent back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations Team!
Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Leah awoke just before me and the first words out of her mouth when she went outside were: It's beautiful out. The sky is blue, there's no wind. I think it's the nicest day yet. And so the wheels were set in motion: firing up the reluctant stoves from their below zero degree slumber to get breakfast and hots going for the team, then waking everybody up to let them know that we were going for it again.
Even with yesterday's aborted attempt that certainly burned a bit of energy, the crew was excited and ready. This time, we didn't have to break trail up to Denali Pass. At first we were nervous about the colder temps, but these concerns proved unfounded as the sun shone brightly and warmed things up. As we ascended, things just got better and better, and our climbers responded well. In fact, they climbed flawlessly today. To say that I am particularly proud of everybody would be an understatement. No slips or oops or loss of focus that seem just an inevitable thing when a large group of folks climb for twelve hours. We reached the summit at about 4:00, the first team to summit today. After the hero pictures and summit hugs, we made our way back to camp well before the sun slid over the ridge.
Enjoying another dinner together was the finishing touch to a great day. We even got some singing out of one of our favorites, tired of body though he might have been, his spirit was obviously on a high. Now our thoughts go to the descent from this lofty camp. A couple of hard days and, with a little more luck, we might be seeing our loved ones soon. But for now, the cold of night is chasing me into my bed of down.
Goodnight from RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah, 17,200' on Denali.
Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Hello,
This is the RMI Mt. McKinley June 4th Expedition. The whole team is here in Talkeetna, Alaska, packed and ready to rock. Today we packed up, checked our gear and sat in on a National Park Service orientation to preview a bit of the upcoming adventure. The team is excited and ready to launch. So far the flying weather hasn't let many folks land these days, but it appears to be stabilizing just in time for us to storm the SE fork of the Kahiltna. With any luck we'll fly out tomorrow morning, so we better get some rest tonight.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Hi, this is Brent calling from the RMI Okita McKinley Expedition and we're calling you from the summit of Mt. McKinley. Right now it's 5 o'clock in the afternoon on a beautiful day here, minimal winds and a few high clouds around. It is just gorgeous! The team did a super job getting up here today. We are taking photos right now and getting ready to head out and get back to camp. I will try and give another call when we are back to camp. I just wanted to let you know everyone is doing super well at 20,320. Congratulations to the team! I am a bit emotional. It has been a great day. Bye.
RMI Guide Brent Okita calls from the summit of Mt. McKinley, 20,320 ft.
You are amazing Gerald!!!! You are one in a million, always have been and always will be!!! We miss you tons! Please come and visit with family ASAP! The Hamptons in the summer isn’t the same without you! Love you Gerald!
Love,
Kimmy
Yesterday's carry to 14,000' left many members of the team knackered, so today is a very relaxing rest day in our well-appointed camp at 11,000'. A leisurely morning was the main agenda, with coffee, bagels, cream cheese and smoked salmon on the breakfast menu. A pan of hash browns and cheese is on deck for the afternoon snack.
The posh house, our group meeting location, kitchen, and dining room is in heavy use today, with its many panel seams radiating out from the center pole like the legs of an octopus. Under its protective canopy we've been solving the various problems of the world and making sure we stay hydrated. Team members drift in and out, while conversation and laughter drifts across camp.
Fortunately the light snow we have had the past couple of days is tapering off, and the sun is working to dry out our moist sleeping bags and tents. We are conserving our energy for tomorrow's move to 14K camp, which will put us over the halfway mark and in good position for the higher reaches of the mountain.
Climbing a mountain like Denali is a long process, and taking time to get to know one another is a big part of that. Today's rest is allowing the team to strengthen our group dynamic, and get to know each other more intimately. What started as a group of strangers more than a week ago is quickly morphing into a solid team of friends, ready to tackle the rest of the "Great One."
But we'll leave the hard work for tomorrow, and enjoy the down time today. Stay tuned for more!
Dan, Robin, Jess, James, Lori, Justin, Tyler and Garrett
So glad to hear the weather has improved and the sky is being kind to you guys!Hope the spirits stay high and every one stays safe. Love you Robin.
Lisa
Posted by: Lisa on 6/7/2013 at 9:10 pm
Thinking of you, Lori. Thankful for these e-mails, I look forward to them each day. Met Wendy by chance at Culvers, special. Keep having good weather, and good luck to you all. Mom
The RMI Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Team led by JJ Justman and Pete Van Deventer are spending the week on Mt. Rainier doing some Denali Prep Training. The team is doing well and having a great time learning some advanced mountaineering techniques. The team plans to make an attempt at the summit early tomorrow.
Best of Luck Team!
Tuesday, June 4, 2013
We were excited this morning as we awoke to a windless day which followed an equally windless night, a far cry from our first night here. With the sun just lightly obscured by some high clouds things looked reasonable for a summit bid. It was even relatively warm at camp, though our team mate from the South might well disagree with that assessment.
We knew today was by no means a sure thing, and went into it with our eyes wide open. And, as you might have guessed by now, we did not tag the summit today. But we did get to Denali Pass, 18,400', which was a huge accomplishment! Unfortunately, the weather up over the summit was not particularly inviting, and we had a light but annoyingly cold wind at the Pass where we are obliged to take a break after over two hours of climbing.
So, we spun it. But we all got so much out of it. The route had quite a bit of snow on it so it was good to kick in the trail. Also, just doing that first part of the route will help everyone the next time we go up it. And, that could well be tomorrow.
Some people suggest that tomorrow might be the nicest day of the period. We're definitely ready for a return to beautiful blue skies, even though the weather forecast reads: more of the same, that is low pressure bringing with it snow and clouds.
The team is ready to go back up tomorrow.
And so am I!
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
Congratulations Gerald and to the entire team! Hope you enjoyed the view from the sumitt. Safe travels down!
miss ya!
P.S. Aliki passed the being “faithful” test we talked about while you were gone ;)
Posted by: john azua on 6/6/2013 at 5:18 am
Gerald, well it is tomorrow night here (June 5) and the suspense is just too much! Whatever the outcome of the day just know everyone back home is wishing you and your team all the best. You HAVE gone in the direction of your dreams and you most definitely are living the life you imagined!! So, so, proud. Stay safe, stay focused and climb strong. Love and miss you. Aliki, Riley & Charlotte
Tuesday, June 4, 2013
Today we woke to a calm, warm and partly cloudy morning at our 11,000' camp! A 7am wake up had us working our triceps downing a cup of coffee and a bowl of oatmeal. Then the hard work with the legs began for our 3,000' climb. Starting with the grind of Motorcycle hill where the ridge provides amazing views of the Washburn wall and Father and Sons wall. Both walls are enormous, sporting 8,000' of vertical relief. With strong efforts by all the team we continued up through Squirrel Hill, across the Polo Fields with the magnificent end of the direct West Buttress looming above. Our ascent around the infamous Windy Corner was just a cool light breeze, a welcome reward. The crew arrived to the 14,000' camp in good shape and we dropped our supplies for the coming days. It was the longest and most work of our trip putting in 7 hours on our feet. The descent was smooth with new blown powder covering the trail, making for soft crampon walking back to the rest and relaxation of the tents for a while before we move in to the disco circus tent we call our living room and kitchen for a very well earned quesadilla extravaganza. We plan to take a day of rest tomorrow and count on our recovery at this lower altitude with continued acclimatization to be hugely beneficial to our success up higher on the mountain. That's all - got to go now, catch you all on our rest day tomorrow!
RMI Guides Tyler Jones & Garrett Stevens
Great job everybody!!! A special hello to Lori. :) You are all an inspiration. I hope you stay warm and safe! Good luck!!! Love and hugs,
Maggie and Casey
Lori-P.S. Keep God in your heart.
Posted by: Casey Hansen on 6/6/2013 at 8:43 am
Robin and Team
Congratulations on your trek to 14k. Sounds like you guys had a difficult day but some amazing views! Hope you get some well deserved rest today. Take care and good luck tomorrow. Looking forward to updates. Praying for your safety and success. Stay warm.
Robin - P.S. got your Father’s Day Cards :)
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You guys are doing GREAT!!! I love the positive energy that is coming from the message. Keep it up! :D Hugs and kisses to Lori. (Kisses from Maggie.) :) Good luck on the next climb and enjoy your rest day!
Love from the little mountains,
Casey and Maggie (“Woof!”)
Keep God in your heart.
Posted by: Casey Hansen on 6/9/2013 at 6:52 pm
d.
looks like the third maybe the charm. enjoy!
mom
Posted by: fran uhlir on 6/7/2013 at 9:33 pm
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