Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team 14K and a Snow Day

July 7, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

The weather forecast was right on this time... A day of snow. It was a little bit like the inside of a milk bottle for most of the time. There were a few hours when the clouds were thinner and the sun's heat could be felt through the storm, but the snowflakes never quit falling. It was not going to be a climbing day for our team and so we turned it into a fine rest day. Solveig Waterfall taught an excellent course in avalanche beacon use. Tim Hardin and Cody Doolan built the mother of all snow kitchens. The team listened patiently to old guide stories and chatted over the current events we could pick up from the Anchorage FM stations. We had a few sessions of cutting snow blocks and building walls around the tents. Mostly this was done for exercise and to get warm, since as yet this particular storm hasn't come with the wind which would necessitate walls. We are happy for that and are somewhat resigned to another day or two of this same system. Best, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Dear Cathy,I’m happy to hear that everybody is doing well even thought the weather is not colaborating. Just be pacient and careful and not to worry because you guys will make it to the top. Do not forget the pictures!!!

Posted by: Carmen Allen on 7/9/2012 at 2:28 pm

Cathy,
I enjoy reading the blog every morning. I hope the conditions will get better soon and you can move on! Alan and I need you for a long overdue ER meeting back here in San Diego!
Good luck to you and the team,
Gerhard

Posted by: Gerhard on 7/9/2012 at 1:12 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Beat Feet to Basecamp

July 7, 2012

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Mike Uchal, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

Adam Knoff called into the office just before 6PM. With a storm expected, the team was hoping to make it to basecamp in order to fly off in front of the storm. The weather didn't quite hold and it began to snow in the last hour upon reaching basecamp. The team's plan to unwind in Talkeetna has been thwarted until further notice.

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Adam and team, was glad to read the posting that you were down to base camp. Sorry your summit hopes didn’t work out this time. Thanks for blogging and helping your mom not worry so much :). Hope to see or hear from you soon Adam. I hope you got out today? Love Kris

Posted by: Kris Bowditch on 7/9/2012 at 8:17 pm

Nels,
I know you are probably pissed about your current situation, but I can’t wait for you to be back on the grid! I miss you and I have so much to tell you! Stay safe and keep writing.
xoxo EB

Posted by: Erica on 7/8/2012 at 6:40 pm

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Elbrus Expedition: Mallory & Team Arrive in Moscow

July 7, 2012

Posted by: Linden Mallory

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Dobrye Veycher from Moscow! The RMI Mt. Elbrus Team arrived into Moscow throughout the day today, making the hour long drive from the airport to our hotel in the heart of the city, across the Moscow River from the Kremlin. With climbers coming in from all over the globe, it has been a long couple of days of traveling for the team and we had a mellow evening, finding dinner in a small restaurant down the street from the hotel. This far north, it is still daylight at 10:30pm as we turn in for the evening. We are excited to be here and looking forward to exploring Moscow tomorrow, visiting the city's most famous sites - from Red Square to St. Basil's Cathedral to the Kremlin. We will check in tomorrow after our city tour. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Mt. Rainier: July 7th Summit!

July 7, 2012

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Kel Rossiter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The summit climb teams reported 100% to the top today! They climbed into a cap with 25 – 30 mph winds, but otherwise conditions were not too bad according to Lead Guide Mike Haugen. The teams will spend a bit of time on the summit today and head back down to Camp Muir shortly. Congratulations to today’s teams!

Mt. Elbrus: JJ & Team Enjoy an Acclimating Hike

July 7, 2012

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Elevation: 13,000'

Today the team awoke to a gorgeous sunrise in the mountains. Typically the weather can be sunny in the morning and then the clouds engulf the surrounding mountains including Elbrus. However, today the mountain has been out in all its glory. After an early breakfast we threw the rucksacks over our shoulders, strapped crampons to our boots and we went for a four-hour acclimatization hike. We made it to 15,000 feet and enjoyed the views as they only got prettier the higher we went. We are back at camp, after a nice lunch (Albina makes the tastiest soups) we are resting in our hut. As a matter of fact, I hear the movie Dumb & Dumber playing on someone's iPad. Gotta go... RMI Guide JJ Justman

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Carstensz Pyramid: Team arrives back in Timika

July 7, 2012

Posted by: Alex Van Steen, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Carstensz Pyramid

Hello All, We have just finished a fun dinner after returning to Timika late this afternoon. Admittedly though, the dinner, as delicious as it was, paled in comparison to a shower after all these days in the humid & muddy jungle! This trip has been demanding in so many ways that the whole adventure is just that much sweeter now that it has ended. Mark Tucker and I are off to Bali for a day of body surfing (oh how I hate my job!) and then back to the U.S. Thanks for following along. All the best, RMI Guide Alex Van Steen

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Mark Tucker, good to hear that you’ve completed the summit list! I can recall hearing you talk about Aconcagua and my daughter, Erin, still has the small chip from the biggest “hill”, from when we lived next to you on Dagny Circle. Congrats! I’ll complete my seventh continent, and 110th country, in March 2013! Les.

Posted by: Leslie Kelly on 7/13/2012 at 7:19 pm

McGahan clan… congrats to all of you! Sooo proud! I can’t wait to hear all about it! Love y’al, Coach/Mrs. Eubanks

P.S. Katie… Are you keeping your backpack as neat as your PE Locker???? :)

Posted by: Amy Eubanks on 7/8/2012 at 7:48 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Back Carry Supplies to 14K Camp

July 6, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Our first night at 14 camp went well. Not that folks didn't notice the altitude and the cold here in Genet Basin, but everybody showed up for bacon and bagels breakfast in a reasonably cheerful state. We didn't get up early, since it takes the sun until about 9:30 AM to get far enough around Denali's South Peak to shine on us. And we took our sweet time getting geared up for our "back carry" -the mission to retrieve our cache below Windy Corner from three days ago. We left 14K at 10 minutes past noon and made fine time getting down around the corner. It was another windless day where we were, but we could see that the gang at 17 camp was catching it in the teeth. The cache was right where we'd left it and it didn't look like the ravens had even bothered trying to dig into it. We loaded up and began the slow walk back uphill over the now familiar terrain. We were back a little before 5 PM. Job done and the approach finished. Now we can focus on the climb. Via the radio, we knew that Adam Knoff and his crew were quitting high camp and descending ahead of a multi-day storm. They had our sympathy, obviously, but we looked forward to seeing them at 14. They didn't stay too long as they wanted to get down around the end of the West Buttress before the snow started falling. The evening was the calm before whatever storm we'll get though. We still had good views of Mount Foraker, across the way, but it and every other peak, was stacked high with lenticular clouds... something is coming. But we've got everything we need to deal with such things, and we are dug into our fortress at fourteen. Best, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sounds like you guys might be getting a nice cool breeze up there !
Hunker down & good luck on the stroll up.

Posted by: Blackie on 7/7/2012 at 3:47 pm

May the storm pass quickly and uneventfully so that you can make your way to the top soon. We miss you Cathy. Looking forward to your triumphant return :)

Posted by: Monica on 7/7/2012 at 2:12 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Descend to 14K Camp

July 6, 2012

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Mike Uchal, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

This is Adam calling in from 17,000’ on Denali. We woke this morning to continued snow and wind, with a major low pressure system forecast to dominate the region over the next several days. We have endured this weather at high camp since Monday and have decided to descend back to 14K camp. Even the approach route, between 14,000’ and basecamp, can be a bear to navigate in foul weather, and we need to stay strong and focused. We’ll begin our descent of the West Buttress and the infamous fixed lines to reach Advanced Base at 14,200’ where Dave Hahn’s RMI party is encamped. We’ll check in tomorrow and advise everyone of our plans and progress. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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John and crew, Stay strong! I am pulling for the weather to begin to work in your favor. You have been so patient ....hang in there! love, dee

Posted by: Deann on 7/7/2012 at 12:46 pm

Nelson, sympathy for Mother Nature at 17,000 camp. I know you toughed out cold and wind, and I hope you can recharge and warm a bit at 14,000 camp. I know you may be disappointed, but few have ever been to 17,000 on Denali. Hang in there and maybe the weather will break and reward perseverance. Love you, stay safe. Dad

Posted by: Bill on 7/7/2012 at 10:10 am

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Cotopaxi Express: Nugent & Team Update

July 6, 2012

Posted by: Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

The team made great time descending in near perfect snow conditions and watched the weather close in after summiting in what had been the most pleasant weather I have seen on the mountain. We lost one teammate before our summit attempt due to illness but everybody else's summit success is indebted to his superhuman cloud-bending abilities. After bailing out of the Refugio we hustled down to the van where Victor was waiting to whisk us away to Hosteria La Cienega. Cienega was apparently built sometime in the 1700's but for us it simply means a warm bed in a beautiful historic hotel with delicious meals. As far as mountaineering goes the Jose Ribas Hut is luxury but now that we are off the hill the team is really enjoying true luxury. After a fat meal, most of the gang has hit the hay trying to recuperate for a BIG celebratory dinner with the entire team tomorrow night in Quito. Buenos nachos, RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Mt. Elbrus: JJ and Team at Garabashi Hut

July 6, 2012

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Elevation: 12,000'

Hello from the Garabashi Hut on Mt. Elbrus (also known as the Barrels Hut). It was an exhausting day getting up here. First we took a gondola and when we got off we had to walk 175 feet to the next gondola. After our second ride we took a single chair chairlift and that dropped us off at the hut. It was a grueling effort to finally walk up to our private barrel but we are now situated all comfy and cozy. We had a great lunch and met our Executive Chef Albina who served up seafood salad, hot soup with crackers, cheese and salami. A surprise for me was to see Mariana, who cooked for us back in 2002. That year I brought some Peet's Coffee and a giant smile was on her face when I pulled out another bag of cafe goodness. The team went for a short but pleasant walk uphill to get our lungs working. Now it's time to relax, drink tea and eat more good food as life at 12,000 feet couldn't be any better. RMI Guide J.J. Justman

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Hi Larry! You bet! Watch our summit video, it was a great day with a lot of fun climbing.Its nice not having to lug a giant pack around all the time. Maybe I will see you in Russia some day.

Keep Climbin’

Posted by: JJ on 7/11/2012 at 10:57 am

Do you do any climbing on this trip? This appears to be much different than Denali.

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 7/6/2012 at 10:45 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team 14K and a Snow Day

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Beat Feet to Basecamp

On The Map

Elbrus Expedition: Mallory & Team Arrive in Moscow

Mt. Rainier: July 7th Summit!

Mt. Elbrus: JJ & Team Enjoy an Acclimating Hike

On The Map

Carstensz Pyramid: Team arrives back in Timika

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Back Carry Supplies to 14K Camp

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Descend to 14K Camp

On The Map

Cotopaxi Express: Nugent & Team Update

Mt. Elbrus: JJ and Team at Garabashi Hut

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