Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Sunday, July 1, 2018 - 6:57 PM PT
Greetings from
Alpamayo Base Camp. We descended today and arrived to our tents and good meals from our cook. We're bummed we couldn't climb, but it was the right decision. We're headed to bed soon in hopes of hiking out tomorrow. We'll check in when we're in Huaraz.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
We had a full value experience on Mt. Baker this weekend. With positive enthusiasm, 12 women met early in the morning in Sedro-Wolley with coffee and gear to hit the trail. We carpooled up to the Park Butte Trail Head on the
Easton Glacier of Baker and started up the trail. The heavy packs didn't phase anyone and soon the trail conversations were running full speed ahead. After a five-hour hike into Sandy Camp at the toe of the glacier we set up camp in the rain. On the flanks of Mount Baker without any view of anything more than six feet away we had a nice dinner and early to bed to stay dry. Unfortunately, we woke to the pitter-patter of rain in the morning but managed a nice cup of coffee and some training in the rain on the snow slopes around us. Sunday morning was our anticipated summit bid but the mountain had other plans for our team. With a deluge of rain and strong winds, we decided the summit wasn't in the cards for us this time. We had the opportunity to be in a storm! Nothing beats this group of climbers. Even after naming the lakes forming in the bottom of the tents, everyone kept smiling. Never a complaint about the sopping wet boots just a choice to put our feet in plastic bags then in our boots. To the best storm fairing team ever, your guides
Jessie,
Lydia, and
Christina thank you for making the trip a great experience.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
This morning
RMI Guide Chris Ebeling led his
Five-Day Summit Climb team to the Mt. Rainier summit. They began their descent at 8:00 a.m. and will be staying at Camp Muir for an additional night before descending tomorrow.
The
Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climb team, led by
Brent Okita, reached the summit in some windy conditions. The team spent some time on the summit and began their descent at 8:00 a.m. We look forward to congratulating them at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.
Saturday, June 30th - 10:30 pm PT
The snow quit abruptly last night at around 11 PM after about a foot of new. Forecasts called for more snow today -about a 70 percent chance of it. So we were on our guard. But this day dawned crisp cold and clear above us (with a sea of cloud below). For various reasons we opted not to pull the trigger on our carry today... there were traffic jams and a lot of new snow to wallow through. For exercise and a thrill, we roped up and ventured over to the “edge of the world” a rock outcrop at the edge of
Genet Basin. From that edge, the world drops vertically for four thousand feet to a branch of the NE Kahiltna Glacier. We stepped out to the apex of rock overhanging the drop and mugged for photos while the clouds swirled in and out mysteriously.
The afternoon ended up restful and pleasant... and not so snowy. We’ll be ready to climb tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Saturday, June 30, 2018 - 8:25 pm PT
The weather clearing did not happen until late last night, so we could not make a break to Basecamp. The clear weather did make for a great rest day at
11,000' camp. We slept in and enjoyed the sunshine while we gathered our strength for one long and final push to the the snowy airstrip.
The team is in great spirits and ready to get back to summer and away from days filled with snow!
Keep your fingers crossed for clear, flying kind of weather for us tomorrow!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Super Crew 6
On The Map
Good evening from
Alpamayo High Camp. We are sad to report that the SW face is not in safe condition to be climbed, and we're not going to aim any higher. Everyone did a great job today and pushed through the upper glacier that is steep as usual, but we will descend tomorrow to Base Camp.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Tyler Jones reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Casey reported increasing winds, and a cap forming as they climbed. The teams are on their descent and will be celebrating back at Rainier Basecamp early this afternoon.
Congratulations to Today's Team!
Saturday June 30, 2018 12:54 AM PST
We are headed home... Slowly.
We woke up to pretty big winds and blowing snow at 17k camp this morning. Our desired early start turned into an afternoon departure when the weather finally gave in enough for us to descend.
We had a great climb down to 14k camp where we crossed paths with Dave Hahn and his crew. It was great to see them and we hope they get the same kind of summit day that we got to experience!
After picking up some cached gear and food from 14k, we made our way through some snowy weather to
11k camp. The Super Crew did a great job keeping it strong on this very long day! Even though the weather does not look to cooperate with us for a Basecamp dash tomorrow, we are in positioned to make it there when it is time to fly!
I think I can speak for the entire Super Crew 6 when I say we are sick of snow!
RMI Super Crew 6
Friday, June 29, 2018 9:53 PM PST
We weren’t feeling it today. Although we’d prepared to carry up onto the
West Buttress, the morning weather didn’t look all that inviting. We watched and waited and ate breakfast, but then declared a rest day. The forecasts had predicted a snowstorm coming onto the mountain and we figured they were getting it right this time. Luckily though, it came in slowly enough for Mike Haugen and his team to climb down from 17 camp. We were certainly happy to see them pass through 14 in the latter part of the afternoon. The really heavy snow began to fall just as they were leaving to go a little lower. It seemed to be coming down at about three inches an hour while we were eating dinner in our well fortified dining tent. The good news is that it is coming down without any wind... so far. By bedtime we could hear avalanches beginning to pour down regularly on the steep -and thankfully distant- slopes surrounding our flat basin. We’ll each be taking turns digging out the camp tonight.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team
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Hi Aunt Kim!! Sorry you didn’t summit- but we need you safe and sound-glad y’all made it to base camp!
We want to hear all about your adventure…
Xoxoxo Lucky & Sophia
Posted by: Lucky Superstar on 7/2/2018 at 4:38 am
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