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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. Rainier: July 5th Summit!

RMI Guide Brent Okita and the Four Day Summit Climb team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Brent reported a great climbing and a beautiful day. Congratulations to Today's Team!
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Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Spend Day Training

Greetings! We're ready for our next objective, Nevado Urus. We all appreciated a rest day today, after yesterday's summit on Ishinca. We spent the day learning and practicing rappelling as well as fixed line ascension in the vicinity of base camp. We also had a thorough discussion regarding expedition planning. Now we're packing for tomorrow's alpine start, hoping to tackle Nevado Urus before the forecasted weather pattern hits - grapple to snow in the mid-afternoon. That's it for now! Wish us luck tomorrow, RMI Guide Elías and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Good luck on your journey & have fun.

I will be thinking of your far more vigorous struggles as I hike up easy Pinnacle Mtn, tomorrow.

Posted by: Eddie Vollman on 7/4/2015 at 8:06 pm


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Walter & Team Visit the Otavalo Market

After a relaxing evening at Casa Sol, this morning finds us in the indigenous center of Otavalo. We're spending a few hours strolling the streets and exploring the bustling Saturday market. Saturdays here are a sensory overload of sights, smells, and sounds, as the market is loaded with handmade crafts, jewelry, woven goods, art, and more. Delicious aromas from all of the restaurants and food vendors fill the air. After lunch we'll head up to the Cayambe Climbers' Hut, where we'll spend the next two nights. It will be our first stint at sleeping up high, above 15,000'. The plan is to go out to the toe of the glacier tomorrow to review climbing techniques, such as cramponing and self arrest with the ice axe. We'll retire early tomorrow night in preparation for our alpine start and summit attempt of Cayambe, Ecuador's third highest mountain at nearly 19,000'. Thanks for following our adventures. We'll touch base again tomorrow from up at the hut. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Summit!

Hey, it is Billy here just checking in after a safe and successful summit bid. We got up, kind of stalled a little bit because it was a cold morning. We left around 10 pm, it took us about 12 1/2 hours round trip. We were super psyched. So we're back in camp, and like I said before everyone is safe and sound. Now we're just hoping for good weather to beat feet for the airport. That's all I have for now. We are going to eat dinner and get some sleep. RMI Guide Billy Nugent


RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls from High Camp on Denali after a successful summit bid.

On The Map

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Congrats to All and especially my friend Jim Latorre! What an incredible achievement!

Posted by: Matt McKittrick on 7/7/2015 at 5:36 am

Way to go Rhonda…you’re awesome! Can’t wait to hear about it - AFTER you thaw out:)
Sue

Posted by: Sue Mamer on 7/6/2015 at 3:28 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Move to 14,000 Camp

July 4, 2015 1:11 am PST This was the day. The weather was a whole lot better than the last few days, but it wasn't perfect. A little blustery. We needed to take advantage though to get out of 11,000' and up to 14,000' Camp. Even having had a handful of teams break trail on the route before we made our effort today, we still anticipated a tough haul with knee deep snow on such steep hills. Motorcycle took longer than normal, Squirrel took longer, the Polo Fields went on forever, Windy Corner was windy (and it took longer). It was all pretty tough going until we got around the corner and reached our cache location from the other day. Finally there was less new snow, less wind and a decent track to follow. It was still uphill though. It took us 8.5 hours to cover what should have taken 6 hours, but what a wonderful feeling to roll into 14 Camp after thinking of it so much when we were stuck down below. We've got different and magnificent views now, of Denali, but also of Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter and about a thousand other peaks when the clouds allow. We did a late dinner after camp was built and then hurried in to the tents for the night. It is colder up here, and colder still when the sun goes behind the mountain. Everybody deserves good rest after such a big day. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Gary Ross, You really are going to great lengths to prove that happiness is found in being “cold, wet, tired and hungry”.  I am following the RMI blog everyday and from the sound of things, you must be positively joyful!
Here at 465’ I am thinking of you and wishing you plenty of happiness along your journey up and down that magnificent mountain. 
Mary

Posted by: Mary R on 7/4/2015 at 11:19 pm

We’re all rooting for you!! Happy 4th, miss you!! xoxo

Posted by: Anne Thomas on 7/4/2015 at 6:42 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach the Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early today. Both teams were beginning their descent from the crater rim around 6:30 am. RMI Guide JJ Justman reported clear skies and warm temperatures. They will make a short stop at Camp Muir before continuing down to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climbs teams! Happy Independence Day!
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Peru Seminar: The Team Summits Ishinca!

¡Buenas tardes! The team is back at Basecamp after a great, successful day on 18,143ft Ishinca. Everyone climbed well up the southeast glacier, which provided a steep, yet sun-cupped summit ridge. An early summit allowed us to descend via the southweat side, completing an up and over traverse of the mountain; extra credit for everyone! We're now looking forward to an active rest day tomorrow, keeping an eye on the weather as our beautiful summit day turned into a dust of unexpected snow at Basecamp this evening. Best regards from Perú! RMI Guides Elías de Andres Martos, Robby Young and team
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Thank you team leaders Elias and Robby, sounds like a great beginning for all!!

Posted by: Laura Voisinet on 7/4/2015 at 4:41 pm

Congrats Robby and team!  Living vicariously through these posts. What an adventure. Greetings from sunny Traverse City fourth of July morning. Safe travels On descent.

Posted by: Victoria Sutherland on 7/4/2015 at 5:48 am


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Walter & Team Enjoy the Views Atop Fuya Fuya

We packed our bags and left the hustle and bustle of Quito behind this morning, driving north towards the town of Otavalo for our next acclimatization climb. Along the way we had great views of Cotopaxi and Cayambe, the second and third highest peaks in Ecuador, respectively, and our major climbing objectives on this trip. As for our objective for today, we climbed the ancient volcano Fuya Fuya. The weather couldn't have been nicer as we summited the 14,000' peak in t-shirts. On top we had great views of Cayambe, Cotopaxi, and even the top of the ever elusive Antisana, the fourth highest peak in Ecuador. Our team did great on the climb today, negotiating steep terrain and a little rock scramble. Now we're at our hacienda, Casa Sol, for the night where a shower, dinner, and a cerveza are on our to do list. After a good night's rest tonight we'll head to the famous Otavalo Market in the morning and then up to the climbers hut in the afternoon. I'll check in again mañana. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Forbidden Peak: Davis & Team Summit!

RMI Guides Leon Davis and Sid Pattison led their team to the summit of Forbidden Peak via the West Ridge today. Leon reported great but hot weather during the climb. They also enjoyed a quiet route with only one other party climbing today. Congratulations to our North Cascades climbers!
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Mt. McKinley: Smoke & Snow for Hahn & Team at 11,200’

The wind and snow conspired to make for a tough and noisy night in the tents last night. A few intrepid souls got out in the storm to dig away the encroaching drifts. Morning brought less wind, but the snow continued as the guides served breakfast in bed. It was slightly surreal to have the strong smell of forest fire smoke mixed in with heavily falling snow while camped so far from trees. Eventually the snow slowed and then stopped, but by that point, several feet of it had accumulated. The clouds stayed right in on us until about 8 in the evening. We were enjoying an open air dinner when the mist fell away, the sun came out and everything got beautiful. The team stayed out well into the evening, staring at Kahiltna Dome, Mount Foraker and Denali's West Buttress. Our prospects for going up in the morning were improved as we watched several teams come down Motorcycle Hill, plowing a trail and cutting whatever tension the otherwise suspect snow-pack was under. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team

On The Map

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Hey, Rob,

Aunt Carol & Uncle Richard got your postcard.  Their thoughts and prayers are with you and your team.  Stay Safe.  Love Aunt Carol and Uncle Richard.

Posted by: Mary Ahlbrand on 7/3/2015 at 6:31 pm

Go Team Hahn!  Safe travels and hoping your weather turns.  Mine certainly hasn’t.  Can’t fly anywhere north of here without serious thunder.  We are cheering every second that you get up that mountain.  Keep Living the Dream.

Posted by: Mike Gorum on 7/3/2015 at 1:12 pm

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