Entries from Expedition Dispatches
May 23, 2015 - 2:37pm PST
We're still comfortably camped in
Genet Basin waiting for better weather in order to move up to high camp. Today it is snowing and windy here in camp, and you can hear the winds howling thousands of feet above us on the West Buttress. We're still living quite comfortably in our tent compound at 14,200'. We're hopeful that the weather pattern will change after this weekend and we will have a shot to move to high camp and try for the summit. We'll check back tomorrow to keep everyone up to date.
RMI Guide
Mike Walter and Team
Saturday, May 23rd 12:44 am PDT
I would like to dedicate this dispatch (one of many I'm sure) to my six year old son, Liam, who's kindergarten class will be following the blog as our adventure unfolds. Hi kiddo! Daddy misses you a lot!
Up here on the mountain, day two was again a well executed day. We packed up camp at 7,800 feet and made a
single carry of all of our things up to 9,800 feet were we are camped for night. We each moved well over one hundred pounds divided between our sleds and packs. From here on up we begin to split the loads, taking some up the mountain in one carry and then returning the next day to retrieve the rest. The weather here is well below freezing at night and we have strong gusty winds that are blowing snow around. We got lucky to move into a camp that already had big snow block walls built to protect us a bit from the heavy gusts. Tomorrow we will decide what the plan is after we have breakfast and check the weather. So far so good.
RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt, and Andy Hildebrand
On The Map
Friday, May 22nd 5:52 pm PDT
The day dawned (that is, the sun rose since it's always some shade of dawn or dusk but never night) with blue skies and calm air in camp, so we hit the rally button, gobbled breakfast and set about breaking camp to head to 14,200 ft. As we climbed, clouds started to appear and stream over our heads and we knew that winds were building. Windy Corner lived up to its name, but it was really only unpleasant for a short while, with wind whipping snow and ice pellets into our face. As soon as we passed the Windy Corner, the winds died and the oven turned on. It's a long move to
14k Camp, and once we arrived the work wasn't over. We set about building walls, a new kitchen, and getting everything bomb proofed. Now we're settled into our new digs, happy, warm, and content. 14k Camp really is the cat's meow. Tomorrow we'll retrieve our cache, and it will be great to be fully settled.
Until then,
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team
On The Map
The Four Day Summit Climb team led by
RMI Guide Brent Okita was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Low visibility and windy conditions prevented the team from climbing above 13,200 ft. The team will descend back to
Camp Muir before continuing on to Ashford this afternoon.
May 22, 2015 - 5:01 pm PT
Once again we find ourselves resting at the 14,200' camp on
Denali's West Buttress. This is our second rest/acclimatization day at this camp, and we are feeling stronger each day. The weather is quite pleasant here in camp, with partly sunny skies and barely a breath of wind. The story is a bit different up higher on the mountain, where strong winds are streaming snow off of the West Buttress. Winds are forecast to increase and there is a high wind advisory for tomorrow and tomorrow night. That means we're planning to stay put in our comfortable and secure camp for the next couple of days while we wait for more reasonable weather in which to climb. We'll keep you updated...
RMI Guide Mike Walter & team
On The Map
May 21, 2015 - 11:31 pm PT
Mt. McKinley made it abundantly clear today that we were welcome to stay in the tents, but were not welcome to move higher. Big snow plumes above us and swirling clouds, snow, and wind in camp made the decision to rest for the day easy. We passed the time with a long brunch, some tent time, and another long dinner session hanging out in the posh. This evening our visibility improved, the sun shone through, and the winds diminished, so we're hopeful that we'll take a take two tomorrow and head up to 14,000'. Keep your finger crossed for us.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard and team
On The Map
May 21, 2015 - 10:46 pm PT
The team has made it to Camp 1 in almost perfect style. I am on my seventh
Denali climb as a guide and have never gone from Base Camp to Camp 1 with such seamlessness. No one had a single sled issue or cursed my name for giving them so much gear. No one got a blister or fell behind a single second. Like I said earlier, I am very pleased with this team. One day down, who knows how many more to go.
Stay tuned for tomorrow's report.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
On The Map
May 21, 2015 - 10:26 pm PT
Hello from
14k on Denali!
We took a planned rest day today, which was a good thing because the weather was a bit inhospitable this morning in camp. Winds were swirling and blowing snow around, with very little visibility. We took advantage of the situation and had a three hour brunch in the comfort and relative luxury of our cook tent. The weather improved a bit in the afternoon, and we did some work around camp fortifying our snow walls. By this evening, the skies were nearly clear and the wind was light at camp. Strong winds were still obvious up higher on the route. The weather forecast for the next few days is still calling for high winds? So our plan is to sit tight and wait for a better weather window in which to climb higher. In the mean time, we're resting, acclimating, and telling lies in the cook tent. We'll keep you posted as we continue to watch the weather.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter and team
On The Map
May 21, 2015 - 10:03 pm PT
Here we are at 9,800' for a second night. This morning the winds continued to whip at the surrounding ridges and moving camp up the
Kahiltna Dome was not prudent. However we were able to go for a venture towards Kahiltna Pass to see what there was to see. Good times trying to get over the bergschrund which was a trap door of deep faceted snow. Towards the top of the ridge we met firm icy conditions that forced us back down. Good times nevertheless! If the weather improves tomorrow we will make an attempt on the Dome.
Good night!
RMI Guide Leon Davis
At 8:30 am the
Expedition Skills Seminar – Muir led by
RMI Guides Casey Grom and Walter Hailes crested the summit crater of Mt. Rainier. The team will spend about an hour on the summit enjoying light winds and mild temperatures before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. The team will spend one more night at Camp Muir before returning to Ashford on Friday. We look forward to hearing of their training and climbing adventures.
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Thanks for the great update—everyone in STL wants to know how you all are doing! George and Margaret have been telling everyone they see that Daddy is in Alaska climbing a mountain! Lot’s of pool time this weekend - Friday night with E & A and yesterday with the Sinton’s and Queens—they all miss you! Thinking of you every day….love H, G and M
Posted by: Heather on 5/24/2015 at 6:45 am
Enjoying your newsy blog. What a team, Sending an abundance of well wishes for continued success and cooperative weather. Stay warm and enjoy your adventure.
Posted by: Carolyn Wallgren on 5/24/2015 at 5:37 am
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