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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Wait Out the Weather

May 23, 2015 - 2:37pm PST We're still comfortably camped in Genet Basin waiting for better weather in order to move up to high camp. Today it is snowing and windy here in camp, and you can hear the winds howling thousands of feet above us on the West Buttress. We're still living quite comfortably in our tent compound at 14,200'. We're hopeful that the weather pattern will change after this weekend and we will have a shot to move to high camp and try for the summit. We'll check back tomorrow to keep everyone up to date. RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team
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Mt. McKinley: Knoff and Team Move Up to 9,800’

Saturday, May 23rd 12:44 am PDT I would like to dedicate this dispatch (one of many I'm sure) to my six year old son, Liam, who's kindergarten class will be following the blog as our adventure unfolds. Hi kiddo! Daddy misses you a lot! Up here on the mountain, day two was again a well executed day. We packed up camp at 7,800 feet and made a single carry of all of our things up to 9,800 feet were we are camped for night. We each moved well over one hundred pounds divided between our sleds and packs. From here on up we begin to split the loads, taking some up the mountain in one carry and then returning the next day to retrieve the rest. The weather here is well below freezing at night and we have strong gusty winds that are blowing snow around. We got lucky to move into a camp that already had big snow block walls built to protect us a bit from the heavy gusts. Tomorrow we will decide what the plan is after we have breakfast and check the weather. So far so good. RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt, and Andy Hildebrand

On The Map

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Thanks for the great update—everyone in STL wants to know how you all are doing! George and Margaret have been telling everyone they see that Daddy is in Alaska climbing a mountain! Lot’s of pool time this weekend - Friday night with E & A and yesterday with the Sinton’s and Queens—they all miss you!  Thinking of you every day….love H, G and M

Posted by: Heather on 5/24/2015 at 6:45 am

Enjoying your newsy blog.  What a team,  Sending an abundance of well wishes for continued success and cooperative weather. Stay warm and enjoy your adventure.

Posted by: Carolyn Wallgren on 5/24/2015 at 5:37 am


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Set Up Camp at 14,200’

Friday, May 22nd 5:52 pm PDT The day dawned (that is, the sun rose since it's always some shade of dawn or dusk but never night) with blue skies and calm air in camp, so we hit the rally button, gobbled breakfast and set about breaking camp to head to 14,200 ft. As we climbed, clouds started to appear and stream over our heads and we knew that winds were building. Windy Corner lived up to its name, but it was really only unpleasant for a short while, with wind whipping snow and ice pellets into our face. As soon as we passed the Windy Corner, the winds died and the oven turned on. It's a long move to 14k Camp, and once we arrived the work wasn't over. We set about building walls, a new kitchen, and getting everything bomb proofed. Now we're settled into our new digs, happy, warm, and content. 14k Camp really is the cat's meow. Tomorrow we'll retrieve our cache, and it will be great to be fully settled. Until then, RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

On The Map

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Keep up the good work, Matt! Here’s a terrible pun for your trouble: ‘I have kleptomania, so when it gets really bad, I take something for it.’ Stay warm and safe, and enjoy the view!

Posted by: Scott on 5/24/2015 at 9:52 am

Jon and Team,
Congratulations on hiking up to 14,200 base camp!  In spite of the snow and ice pellets you all persevered and succeeded.  Thank you guides for your wisdom.
We continue to pray for your safety, cooperative weather and good health.
With caring thoughts to all,
Hugs,
Mom and Aunty Karen

 

Posted by: Kemai on 5/23/2015 at 10:52 pm


Mt. Rainier: May 23rd Update

The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guide Brent Okita was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Low visibility and windy conditions prevented the team from climbing above 13,200 ft. The team will descend back to Camp Muir before continuing on to Ashford this afternoon.
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Sorry to hear of the news, but thankful you guys will be coming home safely. Sure wish the weather would have opened up for your summit push. Great job getting that far in that weather.

Posted by: RC on 5/23/2015 at 2:15 pm


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at 14,200’ Camp Waiting for Better Weather

May 22, 2015 - 5:01 pm PT Once again we find ourselves resting at the 14,200' camp on Denali's West Buttress. This is our second rest/acclimatization day at this camp, and we are feeling stronger each day. The weather is quite pleasant here in camp, with partly sunny skies and barely a breath of wind. The story is a bit different up higher on the mountain, where strong winds are streaming snow off of the West Buttress. Winds are forecast to increase and there is a high wind advisory for tomorrow and tomorrow night. That means we're planning to stay put in our comfortable and secure camp for the next couple of days while we wait for more reasonable weather in which to climb. We'll keep you updated... RMI Guide Mike Walter & team

On The Map

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Take A Weather Day at 11,200’

May 21, 2015 - 11:31 pm PT Mt. McKinley made it abundantly clear today that we were welcome to stay in the tents, but were not welcome to move higher. Big snow plumes above us and swirling clouds, snow, and wind in camp made the decision to rest for the day easy. We passed the time with a long brunch, some tent time, and another long dinner session hanging out in the posh. This evening our visibility improved, the sun shone through, and the winds diminished, so we're hopeful that we'll take a take two tomorrow and head up to 14,000'. Keep your finger crossed for us. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard and team

On The Map

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Thinking of you all up there.  McKinley is showing both her sides to you, will definately cross fingers she will start behaving tomorrow and let you guys through.
Love and miss you Renee as always.  So very proud of you.  Please keep safe and warm.  Jordy leaving Oz soon - how exciting hey.  All doggies well as far as i know - Mama xxx

Posted by: lori on 5/22/2015 at 4:17 pm

Team Pete that sounds like the best decision.  Keep spirits up we are all praying for better weather and safety for all for the rest of your journey. Thanks for the update !
Matt everyone here @ home miss you bunches,  stay healthy and strong!!
I go by your house every other day get mail it lets people see someone is there its all fine,  pool does not seem to be open sure wish it was :>(  Stay safe and warm.
Till next update
Love you mom xox

 

Posted by: Terri on 5/22/2015 at 1:14 pm


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Arrive at Camp 1

May 21, 2015 - 10:46 pm PT The team has made it to Camp 1 in almost perfect style. I am on my seventh Denali climb as a guide and have never gone from Base Camp to Camp 1 with such seamlessness. No one had a single sled issue or cursed my name for giving them so much gear. No one got a blister or fell behind a single second. Like I said earlier, I am very pleased with this team. One day down, who knows how many more to go. Stay tuned for tomorrow's report. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

On The Map

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We sure hope the weather holds clear and bright the rest of your journey. Safe climbing to the whole team. Keep up the good work and good luck to you all.

Posted by: Connie Whitley on 5/23/2015 at 4:14 am

Way to go team! Glad all is well. We sure are routing for y’all. Greetings from Texas! Yee,haw!!

Posted by: Joyce Tocher on 5/22/2015 at 6:20 pm


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Rest at 14,000’

May 21, 2015 - 10:26 pm PT Hello from 14k on Denali! We took a planned rest day today, which was a good thing because the weather was a bit inhospitable this morning in camp. Winds were swirling and blowing snow around, with very little visibility. We took advantage of the situation and had a three hour brunch in the comfort and relative luxury of our cook tent. The weather improved a bit in the afternoon, and we did some work around camp fortifying our snow walls. By this evening, the skies were nearly clear and the wind was light at camp. Strong winds were still obvious up higher on the route. The weather forecast for the next few days is still calling for high winds? So our plan is to sit tight and wait for a better weather window in which to climb higher. In the mean time, we're resting, acclimating, and telling lies in the cook tent. We'll keep you posted as we continue to watch the weather. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

On The Map

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Alaska Seminar: Dave & Team Train at 9,800’

May 21, 2015 - 10:03 pm PT Here we are at 9,800' for a second night. This morning the winds continued to whip at the surrounding ridges and moving camp up the Kahiltna Dome was not prudent. However we were able to go for a venture towards Kahiltna Pass to see what there was to see. Good times trying to get over the bergschrund which was a trap door of deep faceted snow. Towards the top of the ridge we met firm icy conditions that forced us back down. Good times nevertheless! If the weather improves tomorrow we will make an attempt on the Dome. Good night! RMI Guide Leon Davis
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Down here in North Carolina, we had our first day at the pool yesterday!  Stay warm.  Love, Mom

Posted by: Judy Kenyon on 5/23/2015 at 5:28 am

Love the positive vibes from Guide Leon!

Posted by: Laura Bryson on 5/22/2015 at 5:51 pm


Mt. Rainier: Expeditions Skills Seminar - Muir Reaches Summit

At 8:30 am the Expedition Skills Seminar – Muir led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Walter Hailes crested the summit crater of Mt. Rainier. The team will spend about an hour on the summit enjoying light winds and mild temperatures before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. The team will spend one more night at Camp Muir before returning to Ashford on Friday. We look forward to hearing of their training and climbing adventures.
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Congrats everyone, can’t wait till it’s my hubby and I!

Posted by: Carmen on 5/22/2015 at 5:50 pm

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