Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Congratulations to our team of climbers on their climb today!
It wasn't easy, in fact far from it.
We started the day with a 10:30 pm wake up call that no one ever enjoys, but everyone made it to breakfast relatively quickly and seemed excited as the weather looked to be in our favor. We then hoped into our 4 wheeled vehicles and drove about 20 minutes to the start of the climb. The weather continued to improve as we made our way to the the start of the glacier where we put on our crampons and roped up for the rest of the climb. The initial part of the glacier was mostly bare ice which made for rather easy climbing and slowly increased in angle and crevasses. Everyone did a great job of taking care of themselves and stayed calm even though the terrain was challenging.
After several hours of climbing we reached the final headwall that looked to be too much, but with perseverance the team surmounted the last steep slope and made our way to the top of Antisana. All in all it took 9 hard hours to reach the summit where we enjoyed the views and took a few photos. The descent was no easy task either having to reverse the climb, but we all made it back safely in a couple of hours.
Everyone is in good spirits and maybe just a little tired ;)
Special thanks to Sally for the wonderful Sahale mixed nuts that were sent along, we enjoyed them!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and a happy albeit tired crew
February 12, 2015 - 11:56 am PT
Update:
The team is all safely back at Camp III after a successful summit day! Warm temps and literally zero wind made it one for the record books!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
9:20 am PT
Hi, this is Mike King with RMI Aconcagua Team 7 stand on the top of South America! We had a challenging day with extremely cold weather, and wind in the morning. We had a lot of new snow and scree on the way up on the upper mountain. The team did great. We're gonna be heading back down in about 20 minutes. A beautiful day, I don't have ever seen a more beautiful day on the top of Aconcagua. We will call or send a posting when we get back to high camp. Thanks for joining us!
RMI Guide Mike King
Mike King Calling from the Summit of Aconcagua February 12, 2015
Congrats Candace! Can’t wait to hear about your trip! Well Done!
Posted by: Billie on 2/17/2015 at 9:14 pm
Awesome! Congrats!!!
Posted by: Melissa on 2/13/2015 at 8:02 am
Hello everyone,
Tonight we are heading for the summit of Antisana! We arrived this morning to our camp and did a bunch more technical training. The site is like something out of the Lord of the Rings, with tall grasses, roaming horses, and thatch-roof structures all lit by the glaciers of Antisana.
Wish us luck as you head to bed because we will be waking up at that time to go climbing.
We'll let you know how it goes!
RMI Guide Ben Liken and the team
Meredith and Jeff
Congrats to you and your climb team. Wow wow!
Hugs R &. W
Posted by: Ron and Wendy J. on 2/13/2015 at 4:01 pm
We finally got around to packing up camp and climbing up to 19,600 feet, our High Camp for the expedition. Extremely cold and calm morning with a new blanket of snow on the surrounding Andean peaks made for a scenic day.
High Camp is never anyone's favorite camp for a few reasons:
1. Sleeping at 19,600 feet can be difficult.
2. There are no 'great' tent sites due to how the wind swirls around.
3. Lack of snow makes drinking water a time consuming process.
Good thing we are making our summit bid tomorrow and will be back in Base Camp telling stories before to long.
Wish us luck! We will check in hopefully from the summit on Thursday afternoon.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
i hope you will all be home soon.I wish you safety and ssurefootedness. I send Valentines love.
Posted by: tina baker on 2/12/2015 at 6:46 am
Posted by: Ben Liken, Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Hello again everyone,
The team is feeling good and well rested especially after a good nights sleep. Our stay in Papallacta was enjoyed by all even though it was short.
We have traveled back into the countryside to very near our next climbing objective Antisana. Originally we had planned on camping tonight, but due to the forecasted thunderstorms we opted to stay at a wonderful hacienda not far from the mountain. After getting so soaked on Cayambe we thought this would help keep us stay dry and set us up for a successful climb. So we spent the afternoon doing a little technical training and reviewing some of the skills we hope to put to use tomorrow on the glacier.
The valley we are staying in is famous for condors and we even managed to see several gliding not far above us. It was amazing to see these beautiful and elusive birds to say the least.
That's all for now.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
To my climbing buddy, Luke, and to rest of team: Even with rain, sounds like great experience and I’m jealous. Good luck with conditions on Antisana! Be safe.
Jim
Posted by: Jim hill on 2/10/2015 at 9:42 pm
The Gambler said it best, "you have to know when to hold em, know when to fold em". He wasn't referring to his chain of Kenny Rogers' Roasters, but to our team taking another weather day at Camp 2.
We received only a few inches of snow, and with strong winds our tents were drifted in this morning. A cloud reminiscent of Mordor hung over the upper 4,000 feet of Aconcagua until 11am. Instead of getting a late start and arriving in High Camp later in the day, we will dry our sleeping bags and acclimate.
Our summit day will be the 12th. The Gang is hangin' tough and enjoying the saxophone riff from WHAM's "careless whisper".
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
It will happen. The wait is tough but will be worth it. Good luck!
Posted by: Melissa on 2/11/2015 at 8:54 am
stay strong and keep your dreams!
Posted by: tina baker on 2/11/2015 at 6:54 am
Hey gang,
Being on the border of the Amazon Rainforest almost always keeps some clouds floating around Cayambe, but last night it brought more than just clouds. We awoke to a soaking mist that would have drenched the team within minutes of climbing. So we postponed for an hour and a half until there was a minor let up. Then we gathered our gear and started walking up hill in what can best be described as a "dry mist". For 45 minutes we had optimistic smiles as the moon was poking through the clouds and the team was moving strong. But at the first break the rains came and didn't let up. We pushed a bit further to 16,500 feet until the crew was soaked and the decision was clear to head down. To go higher would mean freezing our wet clothes and pushing the limits of a safe climb.
The descent went well and the whole team is now at Papallacta hot springs, happy and healthy. Everyone is turning their sights to more training and our next big climb......Antisana!
Stay tuned
RMI Guide Ben Liken and the Team
This morning we woke to the traditional Aconcagua weather pattern, cold temps and consistent winds. We watched snow billow off the upper Polish glacier into the sky forming clouds that resembled smoke rising from a 23,000 ft bonfire.
Everyone is chomping at the bit to move camp and begin our summit attempt, but we will spend one more night at Camp 2 and hope the forecast of 5-20 mph winds holds out.
Quesadillas for lunch and more tent time. If you are reading these blogs with any desire to go expedition climbing get a Kindle and crush tent time like a pro.
RMI Guides Mike King and Steve Gately
On The Map
Candace, we are following your team’s progress. What an amazing experience.
Stay strong and safe.
susan xo
Posted by: susan on 2/10/2015 at 7:38 pm
Candace!! I’m eating a Newport brownie, sitting at Tidi’s counter!! You are doing awesome!! Can’t wait to see you soon!!! Love you! ~tiff
Posted by: Tiffany on 2/10/2015 at 12:07 pm
Rest day at Camp 2:
Our coldest morning of the climb here at Camp 2 on Aconcagua. Our water source is a large snowfield, that lately has been a raging torrent due to warm temperatures and almost zero snowfall this season. The amount of water and ice that has melted at Camp 2 has begun to erode tent sites that have been staple spots at an already cramped camp.
We are going for a walk to 19,000' this morning to stretch our legs and lungs. 18,000 ft is the highest our group has slept and the guides are pleased with how everyone is acclimating. We are still anticipating high winds tomorrow and remain flexible in our ability to move up if we see a significant difference in the forecast.
RMI Guides Mike King, Steve Gately & Team
On The Map
I’ve got a detailed map of Aconcagua, and it’s extremely cool to see your photos and locate them on the topo map. I can’t wait to take a shot at Aconcagua! It may still be a year or two away, but I’m working my way up to it.
Posted by: Michael Gibbons on 2/8/2015 at 3:54 pm
Hola Amigos!
Sleeping at 15,000' is not a normal thing, nor is sleeping with 6 other people, but thankfully everyone managed to get a few hours of shuteye last night.
Today the team woke around 7 am and headed downstairs for breakfast and washed it down with plenty of coffee. We then got packed up and went out for a little training on the glacier that's about an hour away. Cloudy skies and light snowfall keep things relatively brief as we didn't want to get too wet before tonight's climb of Cayambe. Once back at the climbers hut we relaxed with hot drinks and a little additional training, mixed in with a few bad jokes.
Everyone is in good spirits and seems to be ready for tomorrow's climb. Our plan is to get up at 11 pm and have a quick breakfast and hopefully hit the trail around midnight. If all goes well we should reach the summit around 7 am.
We had a trivia challenge tonight that will allow the winner a sat phone call from the summit. So keep your phones nearby to find out who the winner is.
Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
Glacier training, is that like Ricky Bobbie facing his fears with a cougar in the car? Know you’re having a great time Brian and Brad. Drinking a cup of coffee, thinking about that glacier, and sleeping at 15K feet…BRRRR
Posted by: Clinton and Sharon on 2/9/2015 at 7:37 am
Good luck tonight! Have fun and be safe!
All my love,
Syd
Posted by: Sydney on 2/8/2015 at 5:41 pm
Luke and rest of team,
Success in Ecuador! Congratulations!
Jim
Posted by: Jim Hill on 2/13/2015 at 1:45 pm
Brad and Brian;
Simply Amazing…Safe journey home!!
Posted by: Bobbi on 2/13/2015 at 6:14 am
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