Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Yesterday was spent at K2 Aviation's hangar, putting the finishing touches on our packing and preparing. The weather is beautiful herein Talkeetna, and we fully expect to be able to fly into the
Alaska Range today. Hopefully the next time we touch base will be from the Kahiltna Glacier.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Our attempt on Mt. Francis was great.
We were making good time up the southeast ridge until conditions got really icy. We climbed a pitch of ice and then we made a group decision of turning back down.
The views, as well as the learning experience, were incredible. Now we are all back in camp enjoying a hot cup of tea.
Today we did our last
seminar review and will be starting to pack for tomorrow's flight back to Talkeetna.
Looking forward to a shower and a big salad.
RMI Guide Andres Marin
On The Map
An easy day for the climbing team at Basecamp... Those without coughs went on big hikes, those with coughs went on lesser walks. By contrast, our Sherpa team went for a much more significant and ambitious journey. Tshering, Gylgen and Kaji carried loads from ABC all the way to the
South Col, establishing high camp at close to 26,000 ft. They then returned to ABC, and now, in late afternoon, along with Lam Babu and Yubaraj, they are descending to Basecamp. That is what we call a big day in the
Himalaya.
Unfortunately, there is a somber feeling once again around the mountain. Another tragic fall occurred yesterday, killing a climber on the
Lhotse Face. It isn't our place to divulge details and I don't wish to try to sensationalize
Everest climbing by exploiting such sadness, but I'll mention the incident in order to give proper credit to those who worked hard to make a bad situation better. Lam Babu was one of those who rushed up to the scene to render aid and who helped with the difficult job of retrieving the victim's body which they then transported to ABC. Today, a helicopter pilot finished the job with another daring high altitude retrieval from 21,300 ft... making what was once phenomenal seem sadly routine, but in the process saving many climbers from the very difficult and dangerous task of carrying the victim down through the
Khumbu Icefall.
Tonight, our entire team will be together and safe in Basecamp.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Welcome to the start of
RMI's Denali climbing season! All of the team members have arrived in Anchorage, and we're on our way to the small town of Talkeetna. Talkeetna is the main access point for climbers heading into the
Alaska Range.
We'll start the day tomorrow with breakfast at the historic Talkeetna Roadhouse, and then spend the bulk of the day packing equipment for our expedition. We'll also check in with the National Park Service and go through their informative orientation slide show.
That's it for now. We'll keep you posted with another update tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & team
On The Map
Today our Sherpa team secured prime real estate at
Camp 3. The super Sherpa chopped away ice for a nice flat platform and supplied, but did not set up the tent. It is best to wait till the day the team is ready to use the tent; otherwise, the elements may damage or blow the unoccupied tent away.
Sherpa plan to carry loads to the
South Col tomorrow; these guys are tough.
The climbing team is getting some exercise around Basecamp by day hiking, golfing, and playing horseshoes.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
Today we put what we've learned the last few days into action. We headed to a crevasse and practiced our rescue techniques using the complete system.
Going down in the crevasse was an incredible experience for everyone. It was written all over the team's faces in the great photos and big smiles that made this day just fantastic.
We are going to bed early and hoping for good weather for our summit attempt to the East ridge of
Mt. Francis.
Wish us luck.
All best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin
On The Map
Lam Babu and our all-star Sherpa team were walking out of Basecamp by 4 this morning, bound for Advanced Basecamp (ABC). Their plan is to use the days ahead to establish Camp III on the Lhotse Face and to begin carries to the South Col. It is a good plan and works well with the climbing team intention to head up for a last "practice" rotation on the hill, sleeping as high as Camp III.
We were going for that last difficult push starting tomorrow, but have now reconsidered. A cough has taken precedence, as coughs sometimes do in the month of May on
Mount Everest. We've worked with this particular cough for weeks already and have no fondness for it. The judgement call has come down to: sleep at 24,000 ft, gaining valuable experience in a tough environment while coming down in time for a last rest before the summit bid... Or get healthy and banish the cough before trying for the top.
Get Healthy won out.
We'll stay down while the Sherpa team is up this time (they'll be back to BC in a few days). We'll put a priority on getting the climbing team strong and we'll contend with a longer-than-expected rest while carefully examining weather reports... On the lookout for a suitable "window" between the Jetstream and the Monsoon.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
This place just keeps getting better and better. Today we climbed
Radio Tower!!! The weather was incredible and the views just fantastic.
We climbed this peak via the southside and gained the east ridge to the top. The entire group had the chance to learn a lot and had a great time while climbing our first summit.
After a long day we are eating dinner and planning a day of ice climbing and crevasse rescue that we have in front of us.
All best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin and the
Alaska Alpine Seminar
Cinco de Mayo and we are here with some nachos. No Margaritas, that will be later. Perfect weather, another beautiful day. Lots of prep work for the upcoming rotation. We took out the oxygen masks and regulators. They may use them if a night at
Camp 3 becomes available. So important to double check the equipment before sending it up the hill. Our whole Sherpa team will start out early in the AM for Camp 2 and stay up there until Camp 3 is built and loads are in place at Camp 4. The Sherpa team is such a great group of men, we cannot thank them enough for all their help.
The climbing team will rest one more day, then head up for the final rotation before the summit push.
Dave and
Seth have been doing fine work of all the details, what a couple of super guides we have leading this Expedition.
A big shout out to Karla, Happy B-Day!
Mt. Everest Basecamp Manager Mark Tucker
On The Map
Today we woke up with a blue skies and great temperatures, way different than what the weather was predicting.
Quickly we got ready and went for a hike to the Southeast Fork. Learning about glacier travel and the different terrain features with these incredible views is spectacular. What an environment to learn in! While at the glacier we checked our approach for
Radio Tower, which we are hoping to climb tomorrow.
All and all one more great day in a beautiful place.
Everybody in the group sends a big hello, hugs and kisses to friends and family.
All the best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin and the
Alaska Alpine Seminar
On The Map
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Mike…Wish I were with you there as planned yet so grateful I get to return to Rainier in four weeks aiming this time to get these boots and this bootie on top…Thx for all your support last Sept - Health now A+...Godspeed for best expedition ever…Walter (Sorries if message redudant…system seemed to kick first one out)
Posted by: waltero glover on 5/10/2013 at 10:37 am
Hey Eric,
Gerald here from Rainier last June.Good luck hope to see you on the Mt. I am Climbing with Brent leaving the 22nd…
Posted by: Gerald Flynn on 5/10/2013 at 8:32 am
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