Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
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June 8, 2016 - 2:25 p.m. PDT
Hi from High Camp on Denali! We were in a holding pattern this morning as we had high winds and very cold temperatures. Now the day has warmed up and winds have died a bit, but we are sitting in a very thick cloud. The tents are warm as always with the sun's intense radiation shining through. So we sit and wait, snoozing, mixed with conversation, laughter and anticipation. When our window arrives we are in crouching tiger position, ready to launch on our summit push.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones and Team
On The Map
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
June 8, 2016 - 12:12 am PDT
And...The sun shined upon us! What a day we had. Full session on the Munchkin Formation practicing alpine climbing transitions, lasted from morning to evening. Another gourmet dinner brought us to bed time with the sun still on the horizon. We're ready to tackle our first objective here in Little Swiss. Tune in tomorrow to see how it went.
RMI Guide ElÃas deAndres Martos and Team.
Greg - so glad the weather is better! Have a great time!
Posted by: Abby on 6/8/2016 at 12:46 pm
Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
June 8, 2016 - 10:04 pm PDT
The weather gods heard our prayers last night and rewarded us with cold clear skies this morning and views south towards Kahiltna Dome and Mount Foraker. Views to the Northeast revealed the first obstacle of our next leg, Motorcycle Hill, and further in the distance the Southern end of the West Buttress and the Upper Peters Glacier.
Our team enjoyed a hearty breakfast of eggs, bacon and hash browns and with full stomachs we promptly went to work fortifying our camp by building snow walls around our tents, kitchen and most importantly building a bathroom fit for a Kings royal tush! The rest of the day was spent snacking, lounging and preparing for our carry tomorrow. For the rest of our ascent we will carry part of our gear and food higher on the mountain, in this case to somewhere between 13,600 - 14,000, and then return to our previous camp (11,000) This process not only helps reduce the weight needed to be carried between camps but will also allow the team to begin acclimatizing by climbing high and sleeping low where our bodies can better recover.
We're now settled in for the night and the clouds have rolled back through camp and a light snow is falling. Everyone is doing great and were all excited to be trading sleds and snowshoes for crampons and an ice axe. From here on out we're climbing!
RMI Guide Steve Gately & Team
Looking good guys. Weather looks like it’s been a bit challenging but you are up to the task. Keep up the good work. You are creating memories of a lifetime!
Posted by: SueP on 6/8/2016 at 1:50 pm
Keep up the good work ! Looks nice out but I think I would rather be on a snowmobile !!
Not sure if your bread crumbs are working - the tracker show 39 entries with the last one 3 days ago (June 5th)
Have a good climb !
Dave
Posted by: David on 6/8/2016 at 9:58 am
Posted by: Eric Frank, Mike Uchal, Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Mike Uchal and the Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Eric Frank Reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Eric radioed in from High Break while the teams were on their descent and reported the winds of about 40 - 45 mph on the mountain.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and Team also checked in from the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz, the team is camped on the Wilson Glacier having a great time training.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Good job Michael
Hope to see you out in Port Port
Posted by: Stephanie Ferruzza on 6/9/2016 at 8:27 am
Zorionak!!! Amazing news, congrats to Rafa and to the whole team!!
Posted by: Stephanie on 6/8/2016 at 9:08 am
Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
June 7, 2016 - 8:30 pm PT
We got up this morning to blue skies and a promising forecast. The minute the Big Orange Ball (aka Bob number 2) shined on camp we were outta there, moving uphill. However, we were forced to heavily slow our roll as huge swirling snow plumes were blowing off the 16 ridge and the upper mountain was completely sheeted in wind blown snow.
So we picnicked in one of the most beautiful spots in the world. The visibility was almost endless as we could see much of the range in sharp detail. We rested and snacked for over an hour before the winds started looking more and more friendly. Before we knew it, picnicking was over and as we were hopping onto the fixed lines.
After the practice a few days before the team zipped to the top and met up with our buried stashes! Then it was on! Climbing the 16 ridge is absolutely breathtaking, and we earned it today. The stiff wind never really let up, but it did nothing to dampen spirits as we looked down 2,500 feet to 14K camp and beyond.
Now that the ridge has been walked, and the tents pitched, the team looks to try and recover enough to make a stab at the summit in the morning! Let's just hope this wind blows itself out...
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Wow congrats guys!! Sounds like such an exciting day! Stay safe on this last push to the top. I can only imagine the gorgeous views from where you are. Im so impressed with you all—what an adventure! Enjoy it!
Ongun I’m sending you all my hugs!Xoxo
Karina
Posted by: Karina on 6/8/2016 at 5:45 am
Summit dogs for everyone!
Posted by: Dad on 6/7/2016 at 9:48 pm
Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
June 7, 2016 - 7:24 pm PT
The team continues to do well here at Denali's 11K Camp. We took an early jaunt down to our cache to get reunited with our extra snacks. Our trail breaking yesterday served us well and we cruised out and back with very good style. Once back, we took an "active rest day," building walls to fortify camp and reviewing some mountaineering techniques. If the weather holds, we will try to cache higher on the mountain tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Glad to hear you are progressing up the mountain safely! I’m also glad you can hear about Swiftey’s bladder issues from high altitudes! Be safe, we’re excited for you!
Posted by: Isty's walking partner on 6/8/2016 at 10:22 pm
Hi, Jason! Love the photos that are posted. Keep on climbing; stay warm and safe. So glad you are living your dream.
Posted by: Amey T. on 6/8/2016 at 5:45 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Jess Matthews
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
As our expedition has wound down and we’ve had a few moments to reflect, we wanted to send one final dispatch. By now, everyone has made it home, caught up on some needed sleep and recovery, and nursed some bruised and battered feet back from the long walk out. The memories of a perfect summit day, the many days in tents, the incredible vistas at the Edge of the World and 17 camp are still vivid however!
After an incredible summit day, we packed our camp the next morning as Brent’s team prepared for their summit bid. Though there wasn’t a rush, everyone was motivated by the knowledge that at the end of our long descent lay Talkeetna, with fresh food, beer, flip flops, and clean clothes. With heavy packs on once more, we made short work of the West Buttress, coated in a new layer of an inch or two of snow, and cruised down the fixed lines to 14 camp where we were met by Tyler Jones and team. To them, we owe a lot, as they had taken their rest day to dig up our cache for us, organize and sort it, and met us with water to satiate ourselves and refill bottles. So thankful, and sad that we didn’t have more time to spend with them, we shortly wished them luck and continued down to 11,200.’ It was progressing into the evening hours, and with snow falling and another cache to dig up, we decided to spend the night there. We made a hasty camp this time, with much less concern for walls, or even a flat tent site, and spent the evening rigging our sleds, and packing bags to be ready for an early AM departure.
When we woke, it was still snowing and we sat inside a cloud that blurred the ground, horizon, and sky all into one even color. There are lots of cliches for it: the inside of a ping pong ball, in the white room, or wading through a jug of milk, regardless, that is what we did all day. Flying pretty much completely on instruments, with the occasional wand to guide our way, we made our path down the lower Kahiltna to the airstrip. At one point, an errant black want appeared far off to the teams’ right. As we moved towards it, it shape began to shift eerily, until a black, Canada Goose head came into focus sticking out of the snow. As we realized what we were looking at, the goose shifted, it’s body erupting out of the snow, and it took a look at us and took off in flight, gliding away into the otherworldly landscape.
The poor visibility and trail breaking added time to our march out, and just after noon, we walked into Base Camp, triumphantly, and relieved to be done with the heavy packs and sleds. The weather however provided little hope of flying out, and with an organized low pressure system moving over our area for the next five days, there was some thought that we could be in for the long Base Camp wait. We set up tents, dug up our last cache, sorted gear into duffels to be ready for the flight out whenever it happened, and put snowshoes back on to the Base Camp community chore of packing out the runway. With our work accomplished, we settled into tents to try and calm our minds and find our waiting game zen. Imperceptibly, the tents began to grow lighter, and then a report from a high altitude sightseeing plane made it sound as though there might be a path for our bush planes to get in. Before we knew it, word came that the wonderful folks at K2 Aviation had launched every plane they had to come get us, and that four Otters were in the air on their way. We stripped camp in moments, and soon the silent sky was filled with the buzz of small aircraft as they all came into the runway in squadron formation. Hardly able to believe our luck, we threw bags aboard, found our seats, stowed our carryons, buckled our seatbelts and we were off.
Landing in Talkeetna after 23 days on the mountain is an amazing experience; it was raining lightly, and the colors, sounds of life, and smells were a massive influx on the senses. We jumped out of our three week old clothes and into cotton, and headed to the West Rib, the famous Talkeetna restaurant and bar, for a celebratory dinner followed by revelry at the Fairview. Just as quickly as the trip started, it wound down, as the team boarded a shuttle the next morning to Anchorage to catch flights back to home and our loved ones.
This trip was marked by a team that endured consistent spats of harsh weather, and endured it well. Sitting isn’t always easy, especially when you have to leave the tent into a blizzard every 45 minutes to dig out your tent again, but the team hung tough and stayed positive, and because of their wherewithal, were able to string together one of the more beautiful summit days that the guides have seen. We’d love to thank the whole team for their patience, strength, teamwork, and desire; it was an honor to climb with you all. Similarly, Robby and Jess are two of the most fantastic co-guides that one could ever hope to work with. It took us awhile to reach the top, but it made it that much more rewarding in the end. We’re closing out an incredible trip that everyone involved will remember for the rest of our lives. Thanks for following along on the journey.
Namaste,
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
June 7, 2016 - 12:10 am PT
Yep, patience is an inherent component of alpine climbing. Patience for weather, patience for conditions. Little could we do today with about 1 foot of snow in the last 24 hours. We spent the morning digging camp out, and then made the most of the afternoon with a thorough session of rope skills at camp. A break in the weather motivated a tour of the Pika later, which for about 1 1/2 hours, kept us around its eastern perimeter, below the formations of "The Trolls", which we aspire to climb soon. A hearty dinner of pasta and steak (that's how we roll on the Alpine Seminar) brought us back to warmth, while the laughter was a constant because of the funny music played out of Chase's phone (Will promises to do the Michael Jackson's moves of Thriller after our first summit).
Expectant to see what the weather will bring us tomorrow,
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos and team
Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
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June 6, 2016 - 11:12 pm PT
D- Day 2016
The team launched at dawn, storming the Kahiltna, avoiding the pillbox seracs overhead and the minefields of crevasses below. After a few hours on the offensive the team took the hill at 10,000 feet and moved into a classic flanking maneuver to set up for our assault on 11K. Once the initial defenses were breached, we dug our foxholes and hunkered down to await the next wave. A reprieve came in the afternoon and the team was able to enjoy a hot meal of Mac and cheese before bedding down for the evening. We suffered no casualties and took no prisoners.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Go Jason!!
Posted by: Hoppes on 6/7/2016 at 8:58 pm
Whoo Hoo Jason our gang is cheering you on! Continuing to pray for you and your teams success and safety ! The Broek Family
Posted by: Broek Gang on 6/7/2016 at 4:41 pm
Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
June 6, 2016 - 10:20 pm PT
Welcome back folks! Our team woke this morning to clearing skies down the Kahiltna Glacier with views of Mount Frances, Mount Hunter and Mount Foraker. This is really the first opportunity our team had to get a sense of where we were and what's around us. What a brilliant way to start our day after a stormy evening yesterday! After a quick breakfast we broke down camp, packed our sleds and headed north towards 11k Camp. This day is hard work. Faced with about 1,800ft of vertical and 100lbs of gear per person, it's easily the hardest day we've had so far this trip. But, it's also our last day with heavy sleds until we start our descent. Our team quite excited by that prospect basically drug us to 11k! Okay, well, not quite drug us but they out performed our expectations by a long shot! We're now settled into camp after a few hours of hard work shoveling and digging tent platforms. The clouds have eased there way back in but were hoping for clearer skies tomorrow for the first well-earned rest day of the trip. Thanks for following along! Stay tuned for more!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
Really enjoying seeing your progress! Looks and sounds like an amazing experience. We are all rooting for you and your team back here at the office, Jim Dubay! :)
Posted by: Karen Etters on 6/8/2016 at 7:39 am
Schlax,
Sorry to hear you are stuck at camp. Eric is keeping me informed about what that must be like. I imagine it’s more fun than the Builder, and less miserable than attending a rainy losing ND game.
Today I drove to North Lame (or some town nearby that looked exactly the same). It was 95° and smelled strongly of cows. I sat in a windowless conference room for 6 hours and then drove back. My coworkers made a big deal out of eating Rocky Mountain Oysters, which I think sounds like a good name for a local minor league team.
Remember, if you can’t climb because of the cold, use your artistic eye to find an ice cave ballroom.
Love,
Mary
Posted by: Mary on 6/9/2016 at 6:28 am
PULLING FOR YOU GUYS EVERY DAY. THE RMI POSTS ARE GREAT.
BE SAFE
SENDING BEST WISHES TO ENTIRE TEAM AND ESPECIALLY MY FAMILY DAN AND ERIC.
Posted by: Karen Stewart on 6/8/2016 at 8:22 pm
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